Columbia  ©niuei^itp 
intl)eCîtpof3lfmgark 

THE  LIBRARIES 


GIVEN  BY 


PhiliTD  T.  Moore 


(^ectet  c/îbemoitô 

of  the 

COURTS  OF  EUROPE 

from   the 

i6tk  to  the  fpt/i  (Sentwcij 


volume  ^bine 


<h ditto IX  (yJôatie  (Antoinette 


First  Series 


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&ectet  (y/bemoitd 


LETTERS  WRITTEN  AT  THE  END  OF  THE 
EIGHTEENTH  CENTURT 


iolutne   Ut 


MARIE-THÉRÈSE  OF  AUSTRIA,  DAUGHTER 

OF  CHARLES   VI  AND  EiMPRESS 

OF  GERMANY 


After  a  paintiug  in  the  Gallery  of  Versailles 
Unknozvn  artist  of  the  XVIII  century 


^ectet  (yJôemoitâ 

of   the 

COURTS  OF  EUROPE 


LETTERS  WRITTEN  AT  THE  END 

OF  THE 

EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY 


Sn  'iDwo    Voiumeô 
i  olumc   One 


cJlludttated 


Soh'dadclplita 

Ceotge  Soattid  0  &ondf  J^ubiiôketd 


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GIFT  OF 


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INTRODUCTION 


Although  Mr.  Swinburne's  career  was  not  dis- 
tinguished by  any  of  those  remarkable  incidents, 
vicissitudes  or  adventures,  which  give  interest  to  the 
lives  of  mariners,  soldiers,  and  explorers  of  distant 
regions,  it  is  desirable  that  the  reader  should  be  made 
acquainted  with  the  outline  of  his  history,  as  well 
as  with  the  circumstances  that  gave  rise  to  the  corre- 
spondence which  I  have  undertaken  to  lay  before  the 
public. 

I  shall  commence,  therefore,  by  stating  that  Henry 
Swinburne  first  saw  the  light  in  May,  1752,  and  that 
he  was  the  third  son  of  Sir  John  Swinburne,  Bart.,  of 
Capheaton,  in  the  county  of  Northumberland,  and 
the  youngest  child  of  a  numerous  and  very  ancient 
Catholic  family.  After  receiving  the  first  elements  of 
an  excellent  education  under  the  superintendence  of 
his  parents,  Mr.  Swinburne  was  sent  to  complete  his 
studies  at  the  monastic  seminary  of  Lacelle,  in  France. 
There  he  made  rapid  progress  in  ancient  and  modem 
languages,   in   history,   philosophy   and   the   belles  lettres 


X  INTRODUCTION 

and,  moreover,  greatly  improved  his  natural  taste  for 
painting  and  the  fine  arts.  Thus  he  was  subsequently 
enabled,  not  only  to  enrich  the  literature  of  his  coun- 
try with  two  productions  that  rendered  his  name  con- 
spicuous amongst  the  travellers  of  the  last  century, 
but  to  execute  an  extensive  series  of  drawings,  as 
remarkable  for  their  accuracy  as  for  their  beauty  of 
design.^ 

By  the  death  of  his  eldest  brother,  Mr.  Swinburne 
came  into  the  possession  of  an  annuity,  as  well  as  a 
small  estate  at  Hamsterley,  in  the  county  of  Durham  ; 
which,  added  to  his  own  patrimony,  placed  him  in 
independent,  though  not  in  very  wealthy,  circumstances. 
He  therefore  determined  to  avail  himself  of  an  opportu- 
nity which  occurred  at  that  period,  for  making  what  was 
called  the  *'  grand  tour,"  and  proceeded  to  visit  Turin, 
Genoa,  Florence  and  other  parts  of  Italy.  After  im- 
proving his  classical  knowledge  and  taste  for  antiquities 
by  a  careful  examination  of  the  pictures,  statues  and 
splendid  relics  of  architecture  which  he  encountered 
during  his  travels,  and  having  perfected  himself  in 
drawing  and  in  the  language  of  the  divine  AUeghieri, 
he  bade  a  temporary  adieu  to  Italy,  and  retraced  his 
steps,  by  way  of  Paris,  towards  his  native  land. 

A  circumstance  occurred  to  him,  however,  ere  he 
reached  the  end  of  his  journey,  which  not  only  delayed 

I  These  drawings  are  in  the  possession  of  his  daughter,  Mrs. 
R.  Walker,  late  of  Mitchel  Grove,  Sussex. 


INTRODUCTION  XI 

his  progress,  but  influenced  the  destinies  of  his  future 
life;  for  it  happened,  during  his  passage  through  the 
French  capital,  that  he  met  with,  and  became  tenderly 
attached  to,  a  Miss  Baker,  daughter  of  the  then  Solicitor- 
General  for  the  West  Indies.  This  young  lady,  with 
whom  he  became  acquainted  at  the  house  of  Lady 
Webb,  to  whose  superintendence  she  had  been  en- 
trusted, was  at  that  time  placed  for  her  education  at 
the  convent  of  Ursuline  Nuns — an  establishment  not 
only  in  great  repute  amongst  the  French  nobility,  but 
frequented  by  many  young  English  and  Irish  ladies  of 
the  most  distinguished  Catholic  families.  To  the  ad- 
vantages of  considerable  personal  beauty,  graceful  man- 
ners, and  a  highly  cultivated  mind,  Miss  Baker  added 
the  attraction  of  a  good  fortune  ;  so  that  she  no  sooner 
made  her  appearance  in  Lady  Webb's  salons,  than  she 
became  an  object  of  general  attention,  and,  indeed, 
received  several  flattering  matrimonial  oflers.  Amongst 
other  persons  of  note  who  courted  her  smiles  was 
Charles  Howard,  subsequently  Duke  of  Norfolk. 

Diflering  from  the  generality  of  the  female  sex  in 
her  views  ot  the  qualifications  and  ingredients  ne- 
cessary to  insure  worldly  and  domestic  happiness, 
Miss  Baker  was  neither  dazzled  by  the  seductive 
allurements  of  rank,  nor  biased  by  those  of  wealth. 
Having  been  as  much  struck  by  the  pleasing  exterior, 
interesting  conversation  and  superior  endowments  of 
young  Swinburne,  as  he  was  fascinated  by  the  beauty, 


XÎÎ  INTRODUCTION 

grace  and  intellectual  powers  of  the  fair  West  Indian, 
she  soon  gave  him  to  understand  that  his  attentions 
were  not  disagreeable,  and  at  length  rewarded  his 
assiduities  by  conferring  upon  him  her  hand  and 
fortune. 

This  marriage,  which  promised  and  ensured  so 
much  felicity  to  both,  had  not  been  solemnised  many 
days  ere  Mr.  Swinburne  removed  with  his  bride  to 
England,  and,  after  a  short  stay  in  the  metropoHs, 
proceeded  to  his  estate  in  the  county  of  Durham. 
There  the  young  couple  remained  for  some  time, 
either  occupying  themselves  with  those  studies  that 
were  so  congenial  to  the  tastes  and  talents  of  both, 
or  devoting  themselves  to  the  embellishment  of  the 
house  and  grounds  at  Hamsterley.  Indeed,  the  latter 
soon  became  remarkable  for  being  the  most  picturesque 
and  well  laid  out  of  any  in  that  part  of  the  country, 
as  they  combined  the  classic  precision  of  the  Italian 
style  with  the  more  wild  and  sylvan  boldness  of  Eng- 
lish park  scenery. 

Although  few  persons  were  more  fully  competent 
to  comprehend  and  value  the  tranquil  enjoyments  of 
that  retired  and  independent  life  so  justly  lauded  by 
Horace,  so  beautifully  described  by  Cowley,  it  appears 
that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swinburne  had  not  long  resided  at 
Hamsterley  ere  they  became  desirous  of  a  change. 
This  arose  partly  from  a  mutual  anxiety  to  increase 
their   store   of  knowledge    by    travelling  ;    partly    from 


INTRODUCTION  xiii 

that  restlessness  and  craving  after  locomotion,  which 
is,  perhaps,  a  distinctive  characteristic  of  the  EngHsh 
nation;  and  partly  from  their  being  disappointed  in 
not  finding  the  slightest  sympathy  or  congeniality  of 
taste  and  occupation  amongst  their  country  neigh- 
bours. 

The  contrast  between  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swinburne 
and  the  generality  of  their  provincial  acquaintances 
was,  in  fact,  most  antipodal;  for,  whilst  the  former 
almost  exclusively  devoted  themselves  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  literature  and  the  arts,  the  latter  thought  of 
little  else  than  that  of  corn  or  turnips,  unless,  indeed,  it 
were  the  pursuit  of  foxes.  But  the  evil  did  not  termi- 
nate there  ;  for,  as  usual  with  provincial  sportsmen, 
they  were  not  content  with  hunting  all  day,  but  most 
unmercifully  persisted  in  resuming,  or  rather  recapitu- 
lating, all  the  incidents  of  the  chase  over  the  bottle, 
until  the  bottle  eventually  treated  them  as  they  had 
treated  Reynard,  and  ran  them  to  ground  beneath  the 
table;  for  it  was  considered  in  those  days  as  dis- 
creditable for  a  true  fox-hunter  to  retire  to  his  couch 
sober,  as  it  is  now  unseemly  in  a  well-bred  sportsman 
to  over-indulge  in  his  cups. 

But  though  Mr.  Swinburne  bore  no  share  in  the 
roystering  wind-up  of  the  north-country  Nimrods'  even- 
ings, he  was  not  reluctant  to  participate,  now  and 
then,  in  the  manly  pleasures  of  their  mornings.  He, 
therefore,   had   less   reason   to   complain   of  a   want   of 


xiv  INTRODUCTION 

society  than  his  wife,  who  found  Httle  enjoyment  in 
that  of  her  female  acquaintances.  These  ladies,  whose 
whole  time  and  thoughts  were  absorbed  in  the  per- 
formance of  their  maternal  and  domestic  duties,  and 
whose  conversation  rarely  soared  beyond  the  small 
gossip  of  the  adjoining  parishes,  attached  little  merit 
to  the  possession  of  those  accomplishments  that  dis- 
tinguished IMrs.  Swinburne.  They  were,  in  fact,  as 
little  able  to  comprehend  or  estimate  her  talents  as 
she  was  to  appreciate  the  skill  with  which  they 
executed  those  pickle  and  preserve  accomplishments 
that  constituted  the  glory  of  a  north-country  house- 
wife. It  was,  therefore,  with  no  sUght  satisfaction 
that  Mrs.  Swinburne  assented  to  her  husband's  pro- 
posal that  they  should  return  to  the  Continent  and 
proceed  to  Italy,  after  visiting  the  south  of  France. 

When  two  persons  are  united,  not  only  by  the 
tenderest  ties  of  affection,  but  by  the  utmost  uni- 
formity of  tastes,  studies  and  mental  endowments — 
when  no  difference  exists  between  them,  save  in  the 
diversity  of  their  acquirements  ;  when  no  desire 
animates  the  one,  save  that  of  drawing  forth  and 
exhibiting  in  the  most  favourable  light  the  talents 
and  accomplishments  of  the  other  —  and  especially 
when  fortune  has  placed  them  in  a  situation  where 
they  can  gratify  their  inclinations — Httle  time  is  re- 
quired for  preliminary  discussion  or  preparation.  Mr. 
and    Mrs.    Swinburne   were    not    long,    therefore,    ere 


INTRODUCTION  XV 

they  concluded  their  domestic  arrangements,  and  com- 
menced those  travels  which  furnished  matter  for  his 
valuable  descriptions  of  Spain  and  Italy,  as  well  as 
for  the  following  series  of  letters.  These  latter, 
as  will  be  seen,  were  principally  addressed  to  his 
brother,  Sir  Edward  Swinburne,  with  whom  he  always 
lived  upon  terms  of  the  most  cordial  and  fraternal 
affection. 

It  is  almost  superfluous  to  dwell  upon  the  merits 
of  the  two  productions  above  mentioned,  or  to  recapitu- 
late the  praises  that  were  bestowed  upon  them  by 
the  critics  of  the  day.  I  shall,  nevertheless,  observe 
that  these  publications  raised  his  name  to  a  high  place 
as  an  antiquarian,  philosopher  and  scholar,  both  at 
home  and  abroad,  and  that  they  were  commended  by 
men  whose  encomiums  are  of  no  ordinary  weight. 

Two  of  the  authorities  to  whom  I  allude,  are  Mr. 
Eustace  and  the  Baron  de  Grimm.  The  former  thus 
speaks  of  Mr  Swinburne  in  his  "  Classical  Tour  "  : 
"  I  quote  this  traveller  with  pleasure,  because  my 
observations  enable  me  to  bear  testimony  to  his  accu- 
racy." The  second,  in  his  **  Correspondence  Littéraire," 
holds  the  following  still  more  complimentary  language  : 
"Tous  les  voyages  d'Italie  connus,"  says  Mons.  de 
Grimm,  "ne  m'empêcheront  point  de  lire  encore 
celui-ci  avec  plaisir.  Il  a  voyagé  en  philosophe  et  en 
littérateur.  Ses  observations  éclaircissent  très  heureuse- 
ment  plusieurs   passages   des    auteurs    anciens,   et   son 


XVI  INTRODUCTION 

ouvrage    mérite    la    réconnaissance    de   tous   ceux    qui 
s'appliquent  à  l'étude  de  l'antiquité." 

Although  this  flattering  eulogium  was,  of  course, 
solely  intended  for  Mr.  Swinburne,  it  is  but  fair  to 
observe  that  his  wife  was  entitled  to  some  participa- 
tion in  it  ;  for  it  appears  that  her  husband  was 
accustomed,  not  only  to  consult  her  opinions  previous 
to  commencing  his  literary  labours,  but  that  he  sub- 
mitted his  manuscripts  to  her  inspection  during  the 
process  of  composition,  and  unhesitatingly  followed  her 
suggestions  and  corrections.  In  fact,  no  woman  could 
have  been  better  adapted  for  the  companion  of  a  scholar 
and  man  of  science  than  Mrs.  Swinburne.  In  addition 
to  a  competent  knowledge  of  Greek  and  Latin,  by 
which  she  was  enabled  to  peruse  the  best  classic 
authors  in  their  original  garb,  she  was  mistress  of 
several  modern  languages  ;  she  was  an  excellent  mu- 
sician, and  though  no  practical  artist,  she  was  endowed 
with  no  common  tact  and  intuitive  purity  of  taste,  in 
all  matters  concerned  with  the  schools  of  painting  and 
sculpture.  She  was  remarkable  for  her  good  sense, 
sound  judgment  and  quickness  of  perception,  and 
possessed,  moreover,  that  just  and  comprehensive  coup 
d'œil  which  is  so  essential  for  the  ready  intelligence 
of  the  arts.  But  if  Mrs.  Swinburne  was  eminent 
for  these  endowments,  she  was  not  less  distinguished 
for  her  diffident  and  unpresuming  manners,  and  for  a 
total  absence  of  that  pedantry  and  overweening  vanity, 


INTRODUCTION  XVll 

which  are  too  often  observable  among  women  who 
lay  claim,  or  who  are  really  entitled,  to  the  reputation 
of  superior  intellect. 

After  quitting  the  north  of  England,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Swinburne  directed  their  steps  to  Paris,  and  thence 
to  Bordeaux,  where  they  passed  the  winter  of  1776, 
with  their  relatives  the  Dillons,  with  whom  they  were 
closely  allied  by  the  marriage  of  Mademoiselle  de  Dillon 
with  Sir  E.  Swinburne.  From  Bordeaux  they  removed 
to  the  Pyrenees,  where  they  were  joined  by  their  friend, 
Sir  Thomas  Gascoigne,  who  urged  Mr.  Swinburne  to 
accompany  him  on  a  tour  through  Spain.  The  only 
motive  that  prevented  the  latter  from  immediately  ac- 
cepting this  proposition  was  his  reluctance  to  separate 
himself  from  his  wife.  Finding,  however,  that  he 
should  be  able  to  establish  Mrs.  Swinburne  and  her 
infants  in  an  agreeable  and  convenient  house  near 
Tarbes,  and  seeing  also  that  she  was  extremely  loath 
that  he  should  let  slip  the  favourable  opportunity  of 
visiting  a  country  so  little  known  to  the  public,  and 
so  badly  described  by  previous  travellers,  he  yielded 
to  Sir  Thomas's  request,  and  in  a  short  time  the  two 
friends  traversed  the  Eastern  Pyrenees  and  proceeded 
to  Barcelona. 

Following  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  from 
the  ancient  Saguntum  (Mur\'iedro)  down  to  those  of 
the  no  less  celebrated  Alhambra,  Sir  Thomas  and  his 
companion   visited  all  the  remarkable   places   that  are 

VOL.   I  b 


XVUl  INTRODUCTION 

scattered  throughout  those  beautiful  and  once  chival- 
rous countries.  Then  leaving  behind  them  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  and  the  relics  of  the  Abencerrages,  they  pro- 
ceeded to  Malaga,  and  thence  to  the  shores  of  the 
Atlantic,  where  they  passed  a  few  days  in  examining 
the  beauties  of  Cadiz  and  the  warlike  marvels  of 
Gibraltar.  Having  satisfied  their  curiosity  at  these  two 
places,  they  retraced  their  steps  northward  by  Seville, 
Cordova,  and  Andujar,  to  Madrid,  whence  they  pro- 
ceeded to  Aranjuez,  where  they  met  with  great  atten- 
tion from  the  Spanish  Court.  After  a  sojourn  of  some 
days  at  this  royal  residence,  the  travellers  once  more 
turned  their  steps  towards  the  Pyrenees,  and  having 
re-entered  France  by  St.  Jean  de  Luz,  in  due  time 
reached  Tarbes,  where  Mr.  Swinburne  immediately 
busied  himself  in  arranging  the  materials  which  formed 
the  groundwork  of  his  first  publication. 

Having  prepared  his  manuscripts  for  the  Press 
and  forwarded  them  to  England,  he  removed  with  his 
family  to  Marseilles,  where  he  took  ship  for  Naples, 
intending,  in  the  event  of  his  first  literary  labours 
proving  successful,  to  extend  his  travels,  and  eventually 
to  give  the  result  of  his  observations  to  the  public  in 
a  second  publication.  Having  been  furnished  with 
letters  of  introduction  from  persons  of  the  highest 
rank  at  Madrid  to  those  of  the  greatest  eminence  at 
the  Court  of  Ferdinand  IV.,  the  Swinburnes  received 
the  most  flattering  marks  of  attention,  not  only  from 


INTRODUCTION  XIX 

the  Neapolitan  nobility,  but  from  the  King  and  Queen 
of  the  Two  Sicilies.  Indeed,  the  latter  appears  to 
have  imbibed  sentiments  of  great  personal  regard  for 
Mrs.  Swinburne,  as  was  proved  not  only  by  numerous 
acts  of  kindness,  but  by  autograph  letter,  expressive 
of  Her  Majesty's  friendly  feelings. 

Sicily  being  at  that  period  little  known  to  the 
English  public,  save  through  the  inaccurate  work  of 
Brydone,  Mr.  Swinburne  resolved  to  avail  himself  of 
its  vicinity,  and  to  pass  a  few  weeks  in  exploring  the 
relics  of  its  ancient  grandeur.  Having  procured  letters 
of  introduction  to  the  most  distinguished  civil  and 
ecclesiastical  authorities,  he  embarked  for  Palermo, 
visited  the  most  interesting  portions  of  the  island,  and, 
after  enriching  his  collection  of  notes  and  drawings, 
returned  to  Naples,  where  he  had  left  his  wife  and 
children.  From  Naples,  Mr.  Swinburne  extended  his 
exciirsions  to  Rome,  Florence  and  Pisa;  and  having 
completed  the  manuscript  of  his  travels,  he  determined 
to  proceed  to  England  for  the  purpose  of  superintending 
its  passage  through  the  Press,  as  well  as  with  the  view 
of  looking  to  his  affairs  in  the  north. 

During  Mr.  Swinburne's  visit  to  his  native  country, 
he  was  led  to  believe  that  if  he  were  to  return  home 
with  his  family,  the  Government  would  not  feel  adverse 
to  avail  themselves  of  his  talents  by  conferring  upon 
him  some  diplomatic  or  official  situation.  He  therefore 
rejoined  Mrs.  Swinburne  as  soon  as  his  new  publication 


XX  INTRODUCTION 

was  ushered  into  the  world,  and,  bidding  adieu  to 
Naples,  directed  his  steps  northwards.  The  kindness 
of  Her  Sicilian  Majesty  was  manifested  on  this  occa- 
sion by  furnishing  them  with  letters  of  presentation 
to  her  mother,  the  Empress  Marie  Thérèse,  who,  as 
well  as  the  Emperor  Joseph,  exhibited  every  mark  of 
kindness  towards  them  during  their  short  residence  at 
Vienna.  Indeed,  the  former  appears  to  have  been  so 
well  pleased  with  Mrs.  Swinburne,  that  she  conferred 
upon  her  the  order  of  the  "  Croix  étoilée,"  an  honour 
the  more  remarkable,  since  Her  Imperial  Majesty,  in 
giving  this  decoration  to  a  commoner,  derogated  from 
the  statutes  of  the  order,  which  limit  the  admission 
to  women  of  noble  birth,  actually  proving  their  six- 
teen quarters.^ 

From  Vienna  our  travellers  proceeded  to  Frank- 
fort, Aix-la-Chapelle  and  Brussels,  and  thence  to 
England,  where  they  had  not  long  arrived  ere  they 
received  accounts  that  the  whole  of  their  property  in 
the  West  Indies  had  been  devastated  and  utterly  laid 
waste  by  the  French  and  Caribs.  By  this  misfortune 
Mr.  Swinburne  lost  the  whole  of  the  fortune  which 
he  received  with  his  wife.  This  occurred,  too,  at  a 
time  when  a  largely  increasing  family  rendered  the 
loss  doubly  painful  ;   and  there  appeared  little  prospect 


I  An  account  of  the  origin  of  this  female  order  will  be  found 
in  a  subsequent  note. 


INTRODUCTION  xxi 

of    his    obtaining    indemnity,    either    from    the    French 
Government  or  from  his  own. 

Nevertheless,  as  the  negotiations  for  the  general 
peace,  subsequently  signed  at  Versailles  in  September, 
1783,  were  far  advanced,  he  resolved  to  proceed  to 
Paris,  and  to  lay  his  case  before  the  French  Govern- 
ment ;  trusting  less,  however,  to  the  justice  of  the 
latter,  than  to  the  generous  protection  of  Marie  Antoi- 
nette, for  whom  he  was  furnished  with  letters  of  intro- 
duction from  her  sister,  the  Queen  of  the  Two  Sicilies, 
from  her  mother,  the  Empress  Marie  Thérèse,  and 
from  her  brother,  the  Emperor  Joseph.  Nor  was  he 
disappointed,  for  the  ill-fated  Queen,  who  was  then  in 
the  zenith  of  her  power,  not  only  promised  him  her 
mediation,  but  acted  with  so  much  energy  and  kind- 
ness, that  she  procured  for  him  a  grant  of  all  the 
uncultivated  Crown  lands  in  the  Island  of  St.  Vincent, 
as  an  indemnification  for  the  valuable  property  which 
had  been  devastated.  This  grant  was  recorded  and  ac- 
knowledged in  the  treaty  of  peace,  and  thence  assumed 
the  character  of  a  sacred  international  act. 

The  value  of  the  lands  granted  to  Mr.  Swinburne 
was  estimated  at  ;f  30,000  ;  but  Mr.  Pitt,  who  was  then 
premier,  no  sooner  saw  the  island  in  which  they  were 
situated  transferred  to  Great  Britain,  than  he  offered 
Mr.  Swinburne  half  that  sum.  This  ofifer,  being  utterly 
inadequate,  was  rejected,  and  unfortunately,  as  the 
sequel  will  show  ;  for  the  Government  being  then  sore 


XXÎi  INTRODUCTION 

pressed  for  money,  Mr.  Pitt  brought  a  Bill  into  Parlia- 
ment, the  purport  of  which  was  to  impose  such  heavy 
taxes  upon  all  uncultivated  lands  in  the  West  Indies, 
as  would  compel  their  possessors  to  abandon  them  to  the 
Government  at  a  comparatively  insignificant  price.  The 
proportion  of  these  lands  being  greater  in  St.  Vincent 
than  in  the  other  islands,  the  principal  weight  of  this 
Bill  fell  upon  Mr.  Swinburne.  But  remonstrances  were 
vain  ;  the  measure  passed,  and  the  Government  obtained 
for  ;f  6,500  property  valued  at  nearly  five  times  that  sum. 

The  hardship  of  this  case  was  considered  so  flagrant, 
that  Mr.  Swinburne  was  recommended  to  petition  the 
House  of  Commons.  But  he  wisely  declined  taking  this 
step,  well  knowing  that  a  private  individual  has  no 
chance  of  success  if  he  attempts  to  bring  any  measure 
before  the  Legislature,  the  object  of  which  is  to  prove 
that  the  ministry  have  been  guilty  of,  or  that  the  House 
has  sanctioned,  an  act  of  spoliation.  Mr.  Swinburne 
submitted,  therefore,  to  his  fate  with  as  much  philosophy 
as  possible,  and  retired  to  his  small  property  in  the  north, 
where  he  devoted  himself  to  the  education  of  his  eldest 
son  and  daughter.* 

There  is,  of  course,  little  in  the  ordinary  routine 
of  an  English  country  gentleman's  existence,  no  matter 
how  intellectual  or  talented  he  may  be,  that  can  afford 
subject  of  interest  to  the  biographer  ;  but  it  appears  that 

I  The  latter  married  Mr.  Paul  Benfield. 


INTRODUCTION  XXIU 

Mr.  Swinburne's  domestic  life  presented  so  fair  a  picture 
of  tranquil  ease  and  enlightened  enjoyment,  and  the 
system  of  education  pursued  by  him  with  his  children 
combined  so  many  moral  and  material  advantages, 
that  it  made  a  deep  impression  upon  the  mind  of  the 
Marquis  Ducrest,  brother  to  Madame  de  Genlis,  who 
paid  a  visit  to  Hamsterley  during  the  course  of  the 
year  1787.  Indeed,  such  was  the  captivating  report 
made  of  it  by  M.  Ducrest  to  his  sister,  that,  according 
to  her  own  acknowledgment,  she  founded  her  well- 
known  work  "  Les  Veillées  du  Château  "  upon  his 
description.  I  must  here  observe  that  the  Swinburnes 
had  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  Marquis  Ducrest 
and  Madame  de  Sillery  (Genlis),  during  their  first  visit 
to  Paris  in  1776,  and  afterwards  continued  upon  terms 
of  the  most  intimate  fiiendship  with  that  celebrated 
woman,  with  whom  they  maintained  a  most  interesting 
correspondence  during  many  years. 

In  the  meantime  the  Queen  of  France  was  not 
backward  in  expressing  profound  regret  that  her  kind 
intentions  should  have  proved  so  little  beneficial  to  the 
Swinburnes.  In  order  to  give  them  a  further  proof 
of  the  gracious  sympathy  she  felt  upon  the  occasion, 
she  desired  them  to  be  informed  that,  if  they  felt  dis- 
posed to  proceed  to  Paris,  in  order  to  make  personal 
application  for  further  indemnification,  she  should  be 
ready  to  support  their  claims  with  all  her  influence. 
Upon  receiving  this  information,  the  Swinburnes  again 


XXIV  INTRODUCTION 

removed  with  their  family  to  the  French  capital, 
where  they  remained  until  the  eve  of  that  direful 
convulsion  which  inundated  France  with  innocent 
blood,  and  soon  carried  war  and  desolation  through- 
out the  rest  of  Europe. 

Whatever  might  have  been  the  good  intentions  of 
Marie  Antoinette,  they  were  unfortunately  frustrated 
by  the  rapid  development  and  predominance  of  those 
subversive  and  sanguinary  principles  which  soon 
dragged  her  down  from  the  pinnacle  of  royal  gran- 
deur, happiness  and  popularity,  to  the  utmost  abyss 
of  human  misery  and  degradation — a  contrast  the  more 
hideous  from  the  rank  and  sex  of  the  innocent  victim, 
and  a  consummation  the  more  monstrous  from  the 
devilish  and  brutal  insults  heaped  upon  the  royal  victim. 

However,  although  the  power  once  possessed  by 
Marie  Antoinette  had  so  decreased  as  to  render  it 
impossible  for  her  to  obtain  any  pecuniary  grant  or 
indemnification  for  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swinburne,  she 
evinced  her  kindness  towards  them,  before  their  re- 
turn to  England,  by  directing  their  eldest  son  to  be 
enrolled  amongst  the  royal  pages,  and  placed  under 
the  especial  care  of  the  Prince  de  Lambesc.  This 
was  a  favour  that  had  never  before  been  conferred 
upon  any  Englishman,  and  was  the  more  valuable 
since  the  utmost  care  was  bestowed  upon  the  educa- 
tion of  all  these  youths,  who,  as  may  be  supposed, 
appertained    to    the    noblest    and    most    distinguished 


INTRODUCTION  XXV 

families,    and    who    were    subsequently    provided    for, 
either  in  the  military  or  civil  household. 

Young  Henry  Swinburne  was  not  destined  to 
reap  any  of  the  ulterior  advantages  of  this  situation; 
for  the  aspect  of  affairs  soon  became  so  alarming, 
and  the  perils  of  all  those  persons  attached  to  the 
royal  household  were  so  imminent,  that  it  was  con- 
sidered advisable  for  him  to  return  to  England.  Nor 
could  he  effect  this  entirely  unscathed;  for,  having 
been  involved  in  an  affray  which  took  place  at  one 
of  the  theatres,  between  a  party  of  Royalists  and 
demagogues,  he  received  a  severe  wound  in  his  head, 
and  nearly  paid  the  price  of  his  attachment  to  the 
Court  by  the  sacrifice  of  his  life. 

Being  aware  of  the  advantage  that  he  himself 
had  derived  from  travelling  and  an  extensive  inter- 
course with  the  world,  Mr.  Swinburne  resolved  that 
his  son,  who  was  a  youth  of  remarkable  promise, 
should  participate  in  similar  benefits.  Consequently, 
as  soon  as  the  groundwork  of  his  education  was  con- 
cluded, young  Swinburne  was  despatched  into  Italy, 
under  the  care  of  the  Abbé  Campbell,  a  highly- 
respectable  Catholic  clergyman.  In  due  time  the 
worthy  abbé  and  his  charge  reached  Naples,  where 
they  were  joined  by  Mr.  Pelham,  afterwards  Lord 
Chichester,  between  whom  and  Mr.  Swinburne's 
family  the  warmest  friendship  continued  to  exist 
down  to  the  last  moment   of  their  lives. 


XXVI  INTRODUCTION 

Young  Swinburne  was,  of  course,  most  warmly 
recommended  by  his  parents  to  the  recollection  and 
protection  of  Their  Sicilian  Majesties;  and  it  appears 
that  the  Queen  was  so  zealous  in  her  desire  to 
render  him  all  the  service  in  her  power,  that  she 
sought  out  for,  and  offered  him  the  hand  of,  a  ward 
of  the  Crown,  a  young  Maltese  lady  of  ancient  family, 
who,  in  addition  to  high  blood,  was  said  to  possess  an 
income  of  50,000  ducats.  But  the  young  Englishman 
seemed  to  have  been  as  disinterested  and  as  adverse  to 
enriching  himself  through  the  medium  of  a  matrimonial 
alliance  as  had  been  Mrs.  Swinburne  when  she  rejected 
the  brilliant  offers  that  were  made  to  her  in  her  youth; 
for  he  respectfully  rejected  this  advantageous  offer,  and, 
as  the  approach  of  the  Republican  armies  rendered  it 
prudent  for  Englishmen  to  quit  Italy,  he  lost  no  time 
in  proceeding  back  to  his  native  land. 

Having  fixed  upon  the  career  of  arms  as  his  pro- 
fession, a  commission  was  soon  procured  for  him,  and 
ere  long  he  was  appointed  deputy  assistant  adjutant- 
general  upon  the  staff  of  Lord  Moira,  an  appointment 
for  which  he  was  principally  indebted  to  his  knowledge 
of  languages  and  his  skill  as  a  draughtsman. 

The  hopes  that  had  been  held  out  to  Mr.  Swinburne, 
of  his  being  employed  by  Government,  were  not  realised 
before  the  year  1796;  for  although  interest  had  been 
made  in  his  favour  with  Mr.  Pitt  and  other  members 
of  the  administration,   it  was   not  until   Lord   Spencer 


INTRODUCTION  XXvii 

came  into  office  that  he  received  an  offer,  through  Sir 
Evan  Nepean  and  Mr.  Huskisson,  to  proceed  to  France 
as  British  commissioner  for  the  adjustment  of  the  pr**- 
posed  cartel  for  the  exchange  of  prisoners.  This  dehcate 
mission,  which  Mr.  Swinburne  consented  to  undertake, 
was  rendered  still  more  difficult  in  consequence  of  the 
capture  of  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  whom  the  Revolutionary 
Government  held  in  close  confinement  in  the  Temple, 
and  refused  to  treat  according  to  the  ordinary  usages 
of  war.  It  was  also  simultaneous  with,  but  entirely 
distinct  from,  that  of  Lord  Malmesbury,  who  was 
at  the  same  time  appointed  minister  plenipotentiary, 
for  the  purpose  of  negotiating  peace  with  the  Direc- 
tory. 

The  difficulties  that  Mr.  Swinburne  had  to  en- 
counter are  set  forth  in  his  letters,  and  are  easily 
understood  when  one  considers  the  intricate  nature 
of  the  subject  and  the  uncompromising  tenacity  of 
the  men  with  whom  he  had  to  deal.  But  one  is  at 
a  loss  to  comprehend  why  the  British  Government 
should  have  recalled  him  from  Paris,  where  he  appears 
not  only  to  have  conducted  himself  with  great  pru- 
dence and  discretion,  but  to  have  obtained  the  esteem 
of  all  persons  with  whom  it  was  his  duty  to  transact 
business.  Such,  however,  was  the  case  ;  for  he  was 
recalled  at  the  very  moment  when  there  was  every 
prospect  of  effecting  his  object,  and  was  replaced  by 
a  Captain  Coles,  who  was  ere  long  compelled  to  return, 


XXVIU  INTRODUCTION 

after  unsuccessfully  attempting  to  establish  himself  upon 
the  same  level  as  his  predecessor. 

The  abrupt  termination  of  Mr.  Swinburne's  mission 
may,  perhaps,  be  accounted  for  by  the  system  too  often 
pursued  at  the  English  Foreign  Office  in  regard  to  its 
diplomatic  agents;  passive  obedience,  mechanical  rou- 
tine and  a  mere  adherence  to  system  being  considered 
of  much  greater  importance,  and  a  much  higher  re- 
commendation in  the  eyes  of  the  minister  at  the  head 
of  that  department,  than  the  development  of  extra- 
ordinary activity,  brilliant  talents,  or  zealous  energy, 
unless,  indeed,  the  latter  be  exhibited  by  some  man 
who  can  boast  of  powerful  patronage,  or  who  can 
confide  in  his  own  parliamentary  influence. 

Mr.  Swinburne's  recall,  which  was,  in  fact,  a 
species  of  diplomatic  disgrace,  was,  of  course,  extremely 
galling  to  a  man  of  his  susceptible  and  honourable 
mind  ;  but  all  other  sentiments,  save  those  of  parental 
agony  were  merged  in,  and  obliterated  by,  the  terrible 
calamity  which  assailed  him  a  short  time  subsequent 
to  his  return  from  France.  This  calamity,  the  most 
painful  that  could  befall  a  parent,  was  the  loss  of 
the  young  and  talented  son  of  whom  I  have  already 
spoken. 

In  consequence  of  some  change  that  took  place  in 
Lord  Moira's  staff,  young  Swinburne  was  appointed 
aide-de-camp  and  military  secretary  to  General  Knox, 
who   was  about   to  proceed   as  commander-in-chief  to 


INTRODUCTION  Xxix 

Jamaica.  Little  anticipating  the  melancholy  doom  that 
awaited  th-em,  General  Knox  and  his  suite  joyously 
embarked  on  board  a  vessel  called  the  Bahet,  and, 
after  a  boisterous  passage,  during  which  they  ran  great 
risk,  safely  reached  the  island  of  Martinique.  Here  they 
put  in  to  refit,  and  renew  their  stock  of  provisions,  and 
eventually  set  sail  for  their  ultimate  destination.  From 
that  period  no  tidings  of  the  ship  or  her  ill-fated  crew 
were  ever  received  ;  she  was  therefore  supposed  to  have 
foundered  in  the  gale  of  wind  which  blew  with  fearful 
violence  a  few  hours  after  they  weighed  anchor  from 
Fort  Royal.  This  supposition  was  the  more  natural, 
since  it  appears  that  the  same  neglect  was  shown  in 
the  selection  of  the  Babefj  formerly  a  French  prize,  as 
was  too  often  evinced,  during  the  late  war,  in  the  choice 
of  unsound  vessels  for  the  transport  of  troops  ;  a  bar- 
barous neglect,  from  which  even  the  present  epoch  is  not 
altogether  free,  but  which  was  then  the  repeated  cause 
of  destroying  many  valiant  men. 

The  regret  evinced  by  the  public  at  the  melancholy 
fate  of  General  Knox  and  his  companions  was  universal  ; 
but  the  blow  to  the  unhappy  parents,  who  had  centred 
all  their  hopes  in  this  son,  was  irreparable.  Mr.  Swin- 
burne more  than  once  alludes  to  this  calamity  in  his 
letters;  but,  with  a  generous  desire  not  to  afflict  his 
wife,  he  glosses  over  his  own  anguish,  and,  in  order 
to  support  her  courage  and  soften  her  affliction,  he 
endeavours  to  conceal  the  fearful  agony  that  is  under- 


XXX  INTRODUCTION 

mining   his   own   health,  and  filling   his   soul  with  the 
bitterness  of  death. 

The  difficulties  in  which  Mr.  Swinburne  was  in- 
volved by  the  sudden  loss  of  his  West  Indian  property, 
and  the  demands  of  a  numerous  family,  of  whom  eleven 
were  still  living,  induced  him  to  apply  to  the  Government 
for  some  official  situation  that  might  augment  his  limited 
resources.  The  application  was  met  by  an  offer  of  the 
lucrative  appointment  of  vendue  master  to  the  island 
of  Trinidad,  of  which  the  valiant  and  much  calumniated 
Picton  was  then  Governor.  To  this  permanent  office 
was  added  the  temporary  mission  of  restoring  the  islands 
of  Santa  Cruz  and  St.  Thomas  to  the  Danes.  Mr.  Swin- 
burne would  gladly  have  accepted  any  other  employment 
than  one  which  compelled  him  to  separate  himself  from 
his  family  ;  but  the  proposition  was  too  advantageous  to 
be  rejected,  and  he  therefore  bade  adieu  to  his  wife  and 
children,  and  embarked  on  board  the  Danish  vessel  of 
war  which  was  appointed  to  carry  out  General  Wal- 
tershoff  and  the  troops  of  his  nation,  destined  to  take 
repossession  of  the  above-mentioned  islands. 

After  executing  the  latter  part  of  his  mission, 
Mr.  Swinburne  proceeded  to  the  island  of  Trinidad, 
where  he  sought  to  assuage  the  grief  that  was  corrod- 
ing his  heart,  by  assiduously  devoting  his  time  to  the 
duties  of  his  office,  and  by  occupying  his  leisure  hours 
in  the  mteresting  study  of  botany,  and  the  collection 
of    an    herbarium.       He     was     destined,    however,    to 


INTRODUCTION  XXxi 

terminate  his  earthly  career  at  a  moment  when,  to 
judge  by  his  own  letters,  he  least  anticipated  any  evil 
effects  from  the  unhealthy  climate  where  he  was 
doomed  to  reside.  His  overweening  confidence  in 
his  own  strength,  and  his  contempt  for  the  dangers 
that  menace  Europeans  in  Trinidad,  soon  proved  fatal. 
Ere  many  months  he  was  struck  by  a  coitp  do  soleil, 
as  he  was  riding  from  his  country  residence  to  his 
ofl&ce  in  the  town,  and  died  almost  suddenly. 

His  obsequies  took  place  at  St.  Juan,  where, 
at  a  subsequent  period,  his  friend  Sir  Ralph  Wood- 
ford raised  a  monument  to  his  memory.  Of  the 
eleven  children  who  had  to  deplore  the  loss  of  this 
excellent  parent  and  good  man,  some  are  still  living. 
It  is  at  the  particular  request  of  one  of  them,  Mrs. 
R.  Walker,  late  of  Mitchel  Grove,  Sussex,  that  I 
have  undertaken,  with  most  imperfect  materials,  to 
write  the  foregoing  brief  introductory  memoir.  I  have 
likewise  added  a  few  notes  to  the  letters,  some  of 
which  may  be  found  useful  in  elucidating  certain 
passages  that  might  otherwise  appear  obscure. 

CHARLES  WHITE. 

April  2othf  1840. 


LETTERS 

FROM     THE 

COURTS   OF   PARIS,  NAPLES,  VIENNA,  &c. 


TO   SIR  EDWARD   SWINBURNE. 

Paris,  March,  1774. 

Dear  Brother, — You  request  me  to  give  you 
detailed  accounts  of  my  journey.  The  proposition 
is  too  flattering  not  to  be  complied  with. 

We  left  London  on  the  26th  of  February,  em- 
barked next  day  at  ten  in  the  morning,  and  landed 
at  Calais  at  three  in  the  afternoon. 

The  country  near  Calais  is  flat  and  poor,  with- 
out enclosures.  At  the  distance  of  some  miles  it 
grows  hilly,  with  farmhouses  and  tufts  of  trees  in 
the  valleys.  Near  Boulogne  it  is  hilly  and  open. 
Little  wheat  is  sown  ;  though  all  is  arable.  We 
slept  at  Montreuil.  About  Nampont  are  extensive 
woodlands,  with  heaths,  junipers,  and  fine  oaks. 
Near  Bernayère  are  the  ruins  of  a  church,  with 
very  elegant  arches.     The  farmers  drive  four  horses 

VOL.   I  I 


LETTERS 

FROM     THE 

COURTS   OF   PARIS,  NAPLES,  VIENNA,  &c. 


TO   SIR  EDWARD   SWINBURNE. 

Paris,  March,  1774. 

Dear  Brother, — You  request  me  to  give  you 
detailed  accounts  of  my  journey.  The  proposition 
is  too  flattering  not  to  be  complied  with. 

We  left  London  on  the  26th  of  February,  em- 
barked next  day  at  ten  in  the  morning,  and  landed 
at  Calais  at  three  in  the  afternoon. 

The  country  near  Calais  is  flat  and  poor,  with- 
out enclosures.  At  the  distance  of  some  miles  it 
grows  hilly,  with  farmhouses  and  tufts  of  trees  in 
the  valleys.  Near  Boulogne  it  is  hilly  and  open. 
Little  wheat  is  sown  ;  though  all  is  arable.  We 
slept  at  Montreuil.  About  Nampont  are  extensive 
woodlands,  with  heaths,  junipers,  and  fine  oaks. 
Near  Bernayère  are  the  ruins  of  a  church,  with 
very  elegant  arches.     The  farmers  drive  four  horses 

VOL.   I  I 


2  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

in  two-wheeled  ploughs,  attended  only  by  one  man. 
There  are  vast  plains  of  corn.  The  roads  are  most 
wretchedly  bad. 

The  part  of  the  town  of  Abbeville  by  which 
we  entered,  was  almost  destroyed  and  depopulated. 
The  churches  and  houses  were  in  ruins,  and  the 
fortifications  demolished.  This  desolation  was  occa- 
sioned lately  by  the  wickedness  of  a  keeper  of  the 
powder  magazine.  He  had  for  some  time  supplied 
the  deficiencies  of  his  purse  by  the  sale  of  the  King's 
powder;  at  length,  however,  the  time  of  a  strict 
inspection  approached,  and  the  punishment  he  had 
reason  to  expect  struck  him  with  terror.  Seeing 
that  there  was  no  way  of  preventing  a  discovery 
of  his  theft,  he  resolved  to  blow  up  the  magazine, 
and  thus  to  confound  all  accounts  at  once.  It 
cannot  now  be  known  whether  he  meant  to  sacri- 
fice or  to  save  himself.  Be  this  as  it  may,  he  set 
fire  to  the  train,  and  blew  up  the  magazine,  himself, 
and  half  the  town  of  Abbeville  into  the  bargain. 

We  there  left  the  Paris  road,  and  took  that 
of  Dieppe,  which,  during  this  season  of  the  year, 
is  scarcely  passable  ;  it  runs  through  narrow  lanes 
or  hollow  passes,  in  the  middle  of  the  boundless 
corn-fields,  worn  so  deep  that  the  top  of  the 
carriage  did  not  appear.  We  were  often  obliged 
to    cross   ploughed    lands    and   ditches,   to    escape 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  3 

dangerous  holes,  and  I  was  sometimes  compelled 
to  call  in  a  peasant  to  assist  me  in  keeping  the 
coach  in  its  proper  equilibrium.  In  spite  of  all 
our  care,  it  was  once  overturned,  but  fortunately 
without  occasioning  any  mischief.  After  many 
fatigues,  we  reached  Eu  in  the  evening.  The  next 
day  we  had  to  ascend  a  lofty  hill,  where  there 
did  not  seem  to  be  any  trace  of  a  high  road.  It 
was  with  difficulty  the  horses  gained  the  summit, 
where  we  had  an  extensive  view  of  the  sea,  and 
came  within  sight  of  Dieppe,  situated  in  a  deep 
hollow,  upon  an  inlet  of  the  sea,  surrounded  by 
high  white  cliffs.  The  roads  after  that  were 
almost  bottomless.  A  finer  country  then  presents 
itself  to  the  eye,  with  thick  woods  and  great 
quantities  of  oak  and  birch,  planted  in  regular 
rows.  Lines  of  noble  apple  trees  intersect  the 
plains  in  every  direction.  The  farmers  take  great 
care  of  the  latter  :  they  mat  the  stems  round  in 
winter,  and,  by  cutting  out  all  the  exuberant 
wood,  train  them  to  one  trunk,  only  leaving  the 
small  upper  branches,  which  join  together,  and 
make  a  head  like  a  mushroom. 

Five  miles  from  Rouen  we  descended  through 
extensive  woods  and  deep  roads  to  a  pavement, 
which  brought  us  at  last  to  the  capital  of  Nor- 
mandy,  where   we   took    up   our   quarters   at   "Le 


4  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

Cheval  Blanc,"  in  the  south  suburb  of  St.  Sever. 
Behind  this  suburb  is  a  large  gravelly  heath,  finely 
calculated  for  walking  and  riding;  it  abounds  in 
butcher's-broom.*  Upon  an  eminence  near  it  stands 
a  large  convent  of  Carthusian  monks. 

Rouen  is  built  in  the  shape  of  a  half-circle, 
of  which  the  Seine  is  the  radius;  it  is  a  noble 
river.  The  quay,  though  little  raised  above  the 
water,  and  poorly  built,  is  much  thronged  with 
people.  Several  gates  lead  from  it  through  the 
ancient  walls  into  the  city.  A  bridge  of  boats 
now  supplies  the  place  of  a  stone  one,  which 
was  swept  away  by  the  impetuosity  of  the  floods. 
Its  piers  still  remain  above  water. 

The  streets  of  Rouen  are  dark,  narrow,  and 
have  an  antique  and  gloomy  appearance.  The 
churches  are  of  a  redundant  Gothic  architecture. 
The  cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  contains  nothing 
curious,  except  the  monument  of  Cardinal  George 
d'Amboise,  prime  minister  of  Louis  XII.  He  is 
represented  kneeling  on  a  tomb,  overloaded  with 
ornaments,  figures,  and  escutcheons.  The  monu- 
ment of  Bréze,  Maréchal  de  Normandie,  is  opposite.' 

1  Ruscus  acuUatus. 

2  Louis  de  Bréze,  Count  de  Maulevrier,  Grand  Marshal 
of  Normandy.  His  mother  was  a  daughter  of  the  celebrated 
Agnes  Sorel  and  Charles  VII.  He  married,  in  1514,  the  no 
less  celebrated  Diane  de  Poictiers,  whose  charms  had  so  great 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  5 

John    Duke    of    Bedford,    Regent     of    France,*    is 

commemorated  only   by  a  lozenge  of  marble  fixed 

in  the  side-wall,  with  a  modern  inscription,  behind 

the    high    altar.      On    each    side    of   the    choir   is 

placed    a   heart,    one   of  Richard   Cœur   de    Lion, 

the  other  of  his  elder  brother  Henry. 

St.    Ouen,   a   rich    Benedictine    abbey,   has    a 

light   Gothic   church.     The   Exchange    is   a  grand 

edifice,  situated  in  a  dirty,  narrow  lane.     Its  hall, 

though   dark,  is   spacious   and   noble.     In  the   calf 

market    Joan    of    Arc    was    burnt,    and    tradition 

points   out   the   window  where  the   Regent   sat  to 

see  the  execution.     A  bad  statue  of  the  maid  was 

set  up  in  the  last   century.''    The  environs  of  this 

city  are  beautiful,   the  hills  being  well  wooded,  the 

meadows    extensive,  and   the   soil   dry.     Villas   are 

dispersed  on  all  sides.     The  Misses  Ferguson,  who 

are  residing   here,   speak    much   in   favour  of  the 

place  and  its  society. 

an  influence  over  Henry  îl.  Thus,  as  a  French  author  ob- 
serves, "the  issue  of  this  family  could  boast  of  being  descended 
from  the  mistresses  of  two  Kings  of  France,  a  title  not  very 
honourable  in  our  days  ;  but  for  some  people  there  is  always 
a  compensation." 

1  John  Duke  of  Bedford,  Regent  of  France,  temp. 
Hen.  VI. 

2  The  best  statue  extant  of  the  renowned  Maid  of 
Orleans  is  that  in  the  gallery  of  Versailles,  sculptured  by  the 
gifted  and  lamented  Duchess  of  Wurtemberg  (Princess  Marie 
of  France),  whose  premature  death  took  place  at  Pisa,  on  the 
2nd  of  January,  1839. 


6  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

We  left  Rouen  by  the  lower  road  ;  but  the 
river  Seine  had  so  far  exceeded  its  natural  bounds, 
that  we  enjoyed  little  of  the  beauties  of  the  pros- 
pect, or  the  agreeable  windings  in  its  course. 
We  crossed  it  at  the  Pont-de-l' Arche.  At  Gaillon 
is  a  very  large  Gothic  palace  of  the  Archbishop 
of  Rouen,  commanding  a  charming  view  of  the 
river:  woody  hills  rise  on  each  side,  ornamented 
with  country  seats  ;  whilst  the  hollows  are  occupied 
by  villages  and  rich  arable  lands,  down  to  the 
flats  near  the  water  edge.  The  road  to  Mantes 
is  very  bad;  there  the  pavement  begins.  The 
frequent  appearance  of  the  winding  river,  the  thick 
vineyards  clinging  to  the  declivities,  the  diversified 
features  of  the  vale,  the  distant  broken  banks  im- 
pending over  towns  and  villages,  form  together  a 
group  of  objects  that  render  this  one  of  the 
pleasantest  journeys  a  person  can  take. 

Mantes  is  well  built,  in  a  bold  situation,  and 
the  most  ancient  part  of  its  Gothic  church  is  very 
handsome.  The  surrounding  country  is  clothed 
with  vineyards  and  corn  lands.  At  Meulan,  in 
an  island,  is  L'Isle  Belle,  a  disagreeable,  low  garden, 
with  a  ruinous  house,  once  the  much  admired 
seat   of  the   Bignons.^     We  slept  at  St.   Germain, 

I  The  De  Bignons  were  of  a  very  ancient  family,  which 
had  furnished  many  illustrious  members  both  to  the  bar  and 
parliament. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  7 

and  came  next  day  to  St.  Denis,  where  we  lodged 
with  our  friend,  Madame  de  Marçois,  the  mother 
of  Madame  d'Anglures.  Forty-five  Kings  of  France 
lie  within  the  abbey.  I  was  shown  in  the  treasury 
a  very  fine  cameo  of  Nero,  another  of  Augustus, 
and  a  third  of  Domitian,  hung  at  the  necks  of 
saints,  and  a  very  beautiful  agate  vase.  We  then 
came  to  Paris,  and  have  taken  up  our  abode  at 
Le   Parc  Royal,  Rue  du  Colombier. 

I  have  been  to  Pigalle,  the  statuary,  to  see 
his  famous  monument  of  the  Maréchal  de  Saxe, 
destined  for  the  church  of  Strasbourg.  He  is 
represented  in  armour,  descending  into  the  tomb, 
which  Death  opens,  pointing  to  an  hour-glass  ; 
France,  on  her  knees,  tries  to  drive  the  spectre 
back.  On  his  right  hand  lie  the  Imperial  Eagle 
and  the  English  Leopard  on  their  backs,  and 
the  Dutch  Lion  running  away,  and  under  them 
broken  standards.  A  little  boy,  the  genius  of 
war  or  love,  is  weeping  on  the  left,  with  an 
extinguished  torch  ;  behind  is  the  French  flag 
triumphant  ;  whilst  Hercules  leans  on  his  club 
by  the   sarcophagus   in   an   attitude   of  grief. 

The  marshal's  portrait  is  said  to  be  a  strong 
resemblance;  there  is  great  puerility  in  the  birds 
and  beasts,  and  the  genius  is  highly  absurd. 

Pigalle    has    also   a   naked   statue   of  Voltaire, 


8  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

sitting  crowned  with  laurel  ;  a  roll  of  parchment 
which  he  holds  in  his  hand  serves  as  a  sort  of 
covering.  The  periwig  is  not  forgotten,  and 
altogether  it  is  very  ridiculous.* 


Paris,  April  soth,  1774. 

On  Tuesday  I  set  out  for  Versailles  early, 
pursuant  to  the  directions  I  had  previously  re- 
ceived from  Lord  Stormont,  our  ambassador  ;  and 
having  nothing  but  mere  curiosity  to  gratify, 
with  no  fear  of  disappointment,  I  made  a  tolerable 
day  of  it.  The  Duke  of  Dorset^  was  the  only 
Englishman  presented  with  me.  We  met  in  the 
Salle  des  Ambassadeurs,  and  there  made  acquaint- 
ance. After  a  little  waiting,  the  ambassador  es- 
corted us  to  the  prime  minister's  levee  (the  Duke 
d'Aiguillon^).  If  he  said  anything  to  me,  it  was 
so  little  and  so  low  that  I  do  not  recollect  a  word 
of  it. 

In  his  ante-chamber  the  envoys  of  Europe  were 
assembled,  decorated  with  ribands  of  all  colours, 
and   crosses   and   keys   of  all   metals.     Among  the 

1  This  statue  of  Voltaire  is  now  in  the  vestibule  of  the 
Théâtre  Français. 

2  John  Frederick,  third  Duke,  who  afterwards  married 
Miss  Cope. 

3  Minister  to  Louis  XV.  after  the  disgrace  of  the  Duke 
de  Choiseul. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,     ETC.  9 

rest  the  famous  Aranda,*  late  President  of  Castile, 
but  now,  to  the  astonishment  of  everybody,  am- 
bassador to  the  Court  of  France  by  his  own  request. 
He  was  the  King  of  Spain's  right  hand  when  he 
planned  the  expulsion  and  destruction  of  the 
Jesuits,  and  his  coming  here  seems  to  forebode  some 
mischievous  designs  hatching  in  Spain  against 
the  peace  of  Europe,  perhaps  of  England  ;  yet 
some  think  Aranda  only  chose  the  journey  to 
take  off  the  shock  of  an  approaching  disgrace. 

About  eleven  the  introductors  gave  notice  of 
the  King's  levee  being  ready,  and  so,  in  company 
with  a  German  baron,  we  trudged  upstairs  and 
surprised  His  Most  Christian  Majesty  in  his  waist- 
coat, for  none  but  the  family  ambassadors  may 
see  him  in  buff. 

After  staring  at  us,  talking  about  the  opera 
with  some  few  of  the  crowds  of  courtiers,  and 
saying  about  one  minute's  prayer  with  his  car- 
dinal,'" he  drew  towards  us,  who  were  ranged  near 
the  door  in  rank  and  file.  All  he  said  was:  "Est-il 
fils  du  vieux  Duc  de  Dorset,  que  j'ai  connu  autre- 


1  Count  d' Aranda  succeeded  Count  Florida  Blanca 
as  minister  to  Charles  IV.  He  was  a  man  of  eminent  ta- 
lents and  enlightened  views.  He  was  overthrown  by  Godoy, 
Prince  of  Peace. 

2  The  Cardinal  de  la  Roche  Aymon,  grand  almoner  and 
confessor  to  Louis  XV. 


lO  LETTERS    FROM     THE 

fois  ?  "  and  so  marched  off.  However,  as  they  talked 
much  to  others  who  stood  near  us,  I  can  describe 
them  better  from  this  view  than  from  the  subse- 
quent one. 

The  Dauphin  is  very  awkwardly  made,  and 
uncouth  in  his  motions.  His  face  resembles  his 
grandfather's,  but  he  is  not  near  so  handsome, 
though  he  has  by  no  means  a  bad  countenance. 
His  nose  is  very  prominent,  his  eyes  are  grey,  and 
his  complexion  is  sallow.  He  seemed  cheerful  and 
chatty,  and  I  think  his  aspect  bespeaks  a  good- 
natured  man.  The  second  brother  is  a  pretty 
figure,  and  so  is  the  third,  only  his  mouth  is  rather 
wide  and  drawn  up  in  the  middle  to  the  top  of 
the  gums. 

They  are  not  yet  quite  formed  as  to  legs  and 
strength,  and  have  all  a  good  deal  of  that  restless 
motion,  first  upon  one  leg  and  then  upon  another, 
which  is  also  remarkable  in  some  members  of  the 
English  royal  family. 

The  questions  they  ask  seem  very  frivolous  and 
puerile.  I  believe  they  find  their  time  hang  very 
heavy  on  their  hands,  for  they  ran  with  great  glee 
to  tickle  one  of  the  King's  valets  de  chambre  as  he 
was  carrying  out  the  King's  dirty  clothes. 

Our  next  trot  was  to  the  Dauphin,  who  said 
nothing.      The  same  silence   reigned    at   the   levee 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  II 

of  his  brothers,  as  to  our  share  at  least.  The 
Countess  de  Provence  is  a  little  dumpy  woman,  and 
but  a  plain  piece  of  goods  ;  her  sister,  the  Countess 
d'Artois,  is  rather  prettier,  having  a  fine  skin  and 
tolerable  eyes,  but  her  nose  is  immense,  and  her 
toes  are  turned  in.  Poor  thing  !  she  seemed  quite 
frightened,  and  could  hardly  speak. 

I  did  intend  to  reserve  Madame  du  Barri  for  the 
bonne  bouche,^  but  it  must  be  the  Dauphiness,  who 
quite  won  my  heart.  I  can  give  you  no  account  of 
her  particular  features  ;  but  her  air,  eyes,  shape, 
motion,  her  tout  ensemble  were  most  charming.  She 
spoke  so  cheerfully,  and  so  easily,  comme  si  elle  se 
sentait,  as  the  French  say  : 

"  Elle  avoit  une  grace, 
Un  je  ne  sais  quoi  qui  surpasse 
De  l'amour  les  plus  doux  appas.'* 

I  This  celebrated  personage  was  born  in  1746,  of  low 
parents,  at  Vaucouleurs,  near  Orleans.  Her  father  was  one 
Gomart,  a  clerk  in  the  municipal  tax-office  (octroi),  and  her 
mother  was  a  girl  called  Bécu,  a  sempstress.  After  sundry 
profligate  adventures,  she  married  William  Count  du  Barri, 
with  whose  brother  John  she  had  lived  during  some  time. 
Lebel,  valet  de  chambre  to  Louis  XV.,  being  struck  with  her 
beauty,  introduced  her  to  his  royal  master.  Ere  long  she 
was  established  at  Versailles,  where  she  reigned  despotically 
during  many  years.  She  and  her  family  are  said  to  have 
extracted  thirty  millions  of  francs  from  the  public  treasury. 
When  Louis  XV.  formed  his  first  intimacy  with  this  fascinat- 
ing woman,  whose  numerous  adventures  were  known  to  all 
the  world,  he  said  to  the  Duke  de  Richelieu  :  "  Well  1  at  all 


12  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

From  her  we  passed  to  ths  three,  not  Graces,  but  any 
other  trio  you  may  think  would  suit  them.  I  mean 
the  King's  daughters  ;  the  Dauphin's  sisters  were 
not  visible. 

After  all  these  perambulations  up  stairs  and 
down  stairs  through  the  royal  family,  we  climbed 
up  a  dark  winding  staircase,  which  I  should  have 
suspected  would  have  led  to  an  apartment  of  the 
Bastile,  rather  than  to  the  temple  of  love  and  ele- 
gance. In  a  low  entresol  we  found  the  favourite 
sultana  in  her  morning  gown,  her  capuchin  on,  and 
her  hair  undressed  ;  she  was  very  gracious,  and 
chatted  a  good  deal,  as  everybody  else  seemed  to 
do  at  Versailles,  about  the  opera.  I  could  hardly 
refrain  from  laughing  at  an  involuntary  exclamation 
from  my  brother  presentee,  the  Duke,  whose  mistress, 
Mrs.  Parsons,  has,  you  know,  been  long  out  of  her 
teens.  "  Good  heavens  1  "  said  his  Grace  in  a 
whisper  to  me,  "why,  her  bloom  is  quite  past." 

She  is  of  a  middle  age,  just  plump  enough, 
her  face  rather  upon  the  yellow  leaf,  her  eyes  good, 
and  all  her  features  regular  ;  but  I  cannot  think 
her  a  pleasing  figure  now,  whatever  she  may  have 
been,  or  may  be  still,  when  made  up  and  decked 
out  in  her  pride. 


events  I  succeed  Du  Barri." — '*  Yes  I  "  replied  the  witty  Duke, 
bowing,  "  just  as  Your  Most  Gracious  Majesty  succeeds  to 
Pharamond,  your  illustrious  predecessor." 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  1 3 

There  ended  our  business,  and  then  we  pro- 
ceeded to  dine  at  the  Duke  d'Aiguillon's,  where  we 
found  all  the  foreign  ministers  and  some  French. 
Among  the  women  were  the  Duchess  of  Mazarin, 
once  a  famous  beauty,  and  Madame  de  Forcalquier, 
a  lady  celebrated  for  her  amours  and  her  beauty, 
and  cited  as  such  by  Helvetius  in  his  posthumous 
book.  It  is  she  who,  on  some  dispute  with  her 
second  husband  (she  is  the  widow  of  two),  received 
a  slap  in  the  face  from  him.  Seemingly  reconciled 
to  the  insult,  she  went  out  and  stayed  so  late,  that 
M.  de  Forcalquier,  with  a  great  deal  of  company, 
was  seated  at  dinner  when  she  returned.  Upon 
his  asking  her  why  she  came  so  late,  she  ap- 
proached him,  and  said  she  had  been  all  over 
Paris  to  find  somebody  who  would  take  the  soufflet 
off  her  hand,  but  as  no  one  chose  to  receive  it,  she 
was  under  the  necessity  of  returning  it  to  him  ; 
and,  as  she  spoke,  she  discharged  a  most  violent 
smack  upon  his  cheek,  and  then  flew  off  and  took 
her  seat  composedly  at  the  table. 

Our  dinner  was  very  good,  but  our  Amphitryon 
never  spoke  one  word  to  us,  and  did  not  give  us  a 
very  famous  idea  of  la  politesse  française.  However, 
we  ate  our  pudding,  held  our  tongues,  and  then 
came  away  at  our  leisure. 

The  Baron,  who  was  presented  with  us,  is 
called  Schwenckt,  as  I  read  his  name  given  to  the 


14  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

introductor  ;  but  his  Hessian  friend  said  there  were 
a  few  consonants  left  out.  He  soon  got  acquainted 
with  us,  and  let  us  into  his  history.  This  was  his 
first  début  in  the  world,  being  quite  en  droiture  from 
Westphalia.  He  stuck  close  to  us  for  one,  two,  or 
three  presentations  ;  but  the  introducteur  being  called 
away,  and  none  but  ambassadors  having  the  privi- 
lege of  presenting,  he  was  left  in  the  lurch  at  the 
Dauphiness's.  However,  he  got  pretty  well  through 
this  affair  ;  but  at  Madame's  he  was  unluckily  placed 
behind  the  Swedish  ambassador,  whom  he  over- 
topped by  head  and  shoulders  ;  and  whom  should 
the  Princess  address  but  this  Swede,  whilst  our 
Baron,  who  was  unpresented,  felt  trh  mal  à  son  aise, 
grew  as  red  as  fire,  and  looked  most  pitiable. 

This  scrape  was  nothing  to  what  he  under- 
went at  Madame  du  Barri's,  where  the  whole 
company  consisted  of  ten  persons.  Here  he 
could  not  escape  notice;  and  every  time  she 
stared  at  him,  which  she  did  very  often,  M.  le 
Baron  ducked,  and  made  a  profound  rever- 
ence. I  thought  I  should  have  burst  from  the 
desire  of  laughing;  but  as  we  had  patronised  him 
so  conspicuously  all  day,  he  could  not  do  less 
than  sit  by  us  at  dinner.  To  our  no  small 
amusement,  but  unfortunately  for  him,  a  large 
rabbit    was    placed    by    him,    which,   it    seems,  he 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I5 

had  a  great  aversion  to,  and  this  was  a  new 
désagrément  for  him.  If  he  publishes  his  tour,  I 
dare  say  he  will  give  it  as  his  opinion  that  being 
presented  is  an  infinitely  more  trying  ceremony 
than   standing   the   fire   of  a   regiment. 

This  morning  news  came  of  the  King  having 
the  small-pox,  that  he  had  been  bled  for  it  once 
in  the  foot,  and  had  blisters  clapped  to  his  back^ 
— the  most  extraordinary  mode  of  treating  this 
disorder  I  have  ever  heard  of;  he  must  be  in 
danger  from  his  age  and  way  of  life.  A  few  days 
will  decide  his  fate.  The  royal  family  are  all  sent 
to  Meudon,  and  his  daughter,  the  nun,  goes  to- 
morrow to  join  her  sisters,  who  are  the  only 
persons  of  his  family  left  with  him.  The  whole 
town  is  in  motion  between  Paris  and  Versailles. 
What  an  epoch  for  ministers,  both  ins  and  outs! 

Last    night    we    were    at    the    new    opera    of 

Orphée,    by    Gluck.       I    was    vastly    disappointed  : 

the    best    of    the    music    resembles    in    style    and 

force  the  common  burlettas  ;    but,  to  do  it  justice, 

the   performers   sang   it   abominably,    not    quite    in 

the    French,   yet   not    in    the   least   in   the   Italian 

style.      Some   of  the    dances,  too,    are   ridiculously 

I  When  someone  told  the  Duke  d'Ayen  that  Louis  XV. 
had  taken  the  small-pox,  he  shrugged  up  his  shoulders,  and 
said  :  "Je  n'y  crois  pas — car  il  n'y  a  rien  de  petit  chez  le 
grands." 


l6  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

grovelling  and  vulgar;  but  this  he  did  in  imitation 
of  Boyes,  I  suppose,  to  make  the  rest  of  the 
opera  show  off  better/  The  dancers  are  very  bad, 
a  thing  uncommon  on  the  French  stage,  where 
at  least  one  sense  should  have  repaid  for  what 
the  other  underwent. 

I  have  filled  my  paper  with  mere  nonsense, 
but  that  is  sometimes  more  agreeable  in  a  corre- 
spondence than  either  solidity  or  business. 


Paris,  May  nth. 

Since  my  last,  everything  in  this  capital  has 
worn  the  aspect  of  dulness  and  anxiety.  No  one 
could  be  totally  indifferent  whilst  the  life  of  the 
Grand  Monarque  was  at  stake  ;  though  it  aston- 
ished me  and  all  strangers  to  see  how  little  the 
generality  of  the  natives  seemed  to  care  about  the 
event. 

Louis  XV.  took  to  his  bed  on  Monday,  the 
27th  of  April,  the  day  after  I  was  presented  to 
him,  and  in  a  day  or  two  the  small-pox  made  its 
appearance.    This  was  kept  a  profound  secret  from 

1  This  reminds  me  of  the  advice  given  by  a  wit  to 
the  composer  of  a  French  opera,  interspersed  with  dances, 
which  was  not  very  successful  upon  its  first  representation. 
♦'What  shall  I  do,"  said  the  composer,  "to  make  it  more 
popular  ?  " — ♦•  Do  ?  "  replied  the  other  ;  "  why,  lengthen  the 
ballet  and  shorten  the  dresses  of  the  figurantes." 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  17 

him,  for  fear  of  his  being  frightened  into  confes- 
sion, and  consequently  into  the  banishment  of 
Madame  du  Barri. 

The  physicians,  whose  constant  practice  is  to 
kill  in  this  disorder,  bled  him  twice,  and  would 
have  done  it  a  third  time  had  they  imagined  he 
had  blood  sufficient  for  it.  They  also  blistered 
him  severely,  and  brought  a  deal  of  the  humour 
out  by  that  part  of  his  body.  Every  day  they 
issued  bulletins,  with  an  account  of  the  progress 
of  the  malady,  which,  being  posted  up  in  the 
palaces  for  the  inspection  of  the  public,  were  in- 
tended to  keep  up  their  hopes.  Could  any  credit 
have  been  given  to  these  papers,  the  generality 
of  people  might  have  been  lulled  into  confidence; 
but,  from  the  known  fallaciousness  of  these  ac- 
counts, and  the  King's  age  and  irregularities, 
nobody  believed  he  would  get  over  the  disorder. 
Everybody  was,  therefore,  in  motion,  and  en- 
deavouring to  prepare  himself  for  a  great  change 
of  men  and  measures. 

About  six  days  ago,  however,  the  King  dis- 
covered the  real  nature  of  his  case,  which,  it  is 
believed,  was  made  known  to  him  by  his  daughter, 
Madame  Louise,  the  Carmelite  nun,  who  left  her 
convent  to  attend  him  in  his  illness;  and,  though 
much  against  the  mclinations  of  some  people,  he 

VOL.  I  a 


l8  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

confessed  himself,  made  a  public  avowal  of  his 
faults,  and  ordered  the  Cardinal  de  la  Roche 
Aymon  to  repeat  his  words  in  the  great  gallery, 
and  to  have  them  printed  and  distributed.  They 
expressed  his  sincere  repentance  for  having  so  long 
scandalised  his  people,  of  whom  and  of  God  he 
asked  pardon,  and  declared  he  only  wished  to  re- 
cover his  health  that  he  might  devote  the  rest  of 
his  life  to  the  service  of  religion  and  of  his  people. 

The  natives  seemed  in  great  spirits  at  this 
death-bed  repentance  ;  but  whether  they  gave  credit 
to  such  a  thorough  change  is  what  I  cannot  pre- 
tend to  assume.  The  Viaticum  was  carried  to 
him  with  all  the  pomp  imaginable.  The  canop> 
was  borne  by  Princes  of  the  blood,  and  attended 
by  all  the  principal  personages  of  the  Court.  It 
was  observed  that  the  Dauphin  seemed  the  most 
affected  of  any,  and  wept  profusely. 

None  of  these  spiritual  aids  availed,  no  more 
than  the  descent  of  the  relics  of  St.  Geneviève, 
nor  the  prayers  of  four  hours  in  every  church 
of  the  metropolis.  On  Friday,  Sutton,  the  English 
inoculator,  offered  his  services,  but  was  refused, 
as  he  did  not  choose  to  let  the  French  physi- 
cians into  his  secret.  A  mortification  began  to 
appear  about  the  stomach,  and  upon  Saturday  the 
case  was  looked  upon  as  desperate. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  IQ 

During  the  first  days  of  his  illness,  Madame 
du  Barri  was  wont  to  attend  him  at  the  hour  of 
dinner,  that  is,  as  soon  as  Madame  Adelaide 
retired  from  his  chamber  ;  but,  just  before  the 
King's  confession,  she  was  sent  to  the  Duke 
d'Aiguillon  at  Ruelle,  whence  she  took  her  de- 
parture for  Dauphiny.^ 

On  Monday  Sutton  was  admitted,  as  the 
doctors  had  given  him  over,  the  King  being  quite 
out  of  his  senses,  and  almost  in  the  agonies  of 
death.  Sutton  administered  emetics  and  cathar- 
tics, and  brought  him  to  himself  so  well  as  tc 
enable  him  to  speak  and  ask  pardon  of  the  Prince 
de  Conti  for  all  his  usage  of  him.  But  all  help 
was  now  in  vain,  and  Louis  XV.  expired  at  half- 
past  three  in  the  afternoon  of  yesterday,  May  loth. 
He  had  caught  the  infection,  I  am  told,  from  a 
girl  who  resided  with  some  others  in  the  Pare 
aux  Cerfs,  a  kind  of  seraglio,  near  Versailles.^     She 

I  She  was  proprietress  of  the  splendid  château  of 
Luciennes,  in  Dauphiny,  the  furniture  and  decorations  of 
which  are  said  to  have  cost  six  millions  of  francs.  After 
being  released  from  the  abbey  of  Pont-aux-Dames,  near 
Meaux,  where  she  was  confined  for  some  time  by  order  of 
Louis  XVI.,  Madame  du  Barri  passed  the  remainder  of  her 
days  at  Luciennes,  until  she  was  arrested  on  the  22nd  of 
September,  1793,  and  guillotined  by  order  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary Committee  on  the  9th  of  November  following. 
Luciennes  recently  belonged   to   M.    Lafitte. 

i  This  establishment,  which  obtained  such  disgraceful 

2 — 2 


20  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

was  some  time  after  taken  into  Madame  du  Barri's 
service,  and,  being  sent  to  Paris,  where  the  small- 
pox appeared  on  her,  she  died  last  week. 

The  royal  family  retired  to  Choisy  yesterday. 
The  King's  daughters  attended  their  father  during 
all  his  sickness,  but  none  of  them  have  had  the 
small-pox.  The  Duke  of  Orleans^  waited  on  him 
like  a  servant.  The  Archbishop  of  Paris,  though 
almost  dead  himself  with  a  nephritic  colic,  went 
to  Versailles,  but  was  not  very  graciously  received. 

On  account  of  the  infection,  the  body  is  not 

to  lie  in  state  at  the  Louvre,  but  will   be   carried 

to   St.    Denis,   where    it    is    to    lie    in   state   forty 

days  ;     during   which    time    no   diversions    of   any 

kind   are   to   be   permitted.      How   black   and   dull 

then   will   be  this   land  of  foppery  for   six  weeks  I 

Mourning  is  risen   high   in   price,   cloth   ten  livres 

an   ell.     The   mourning   is   to   be   for  six   months. 

After    the    forty    days    the    new   King   will    go   to 

Rheims   to  be   anointed.     The  processions  for  the 

notoriety,  was  originally  a  beautiful  campagne,  called 
l'Ermitage,  in  the  park  of  Versailles,  and  belonged  to 
Madame  de  Pompadour.  It  was  converted  by  that  profli- 
gate woman  to  its  scandalous  purposes  in  the  year  1753. 
It  is  affirmed  that  the  expenses  of  the  Pare  aux  Cerfs,  and 
its  contemptible  inmates,  many  of  whom  belonged  to  the 
first  families  of  France,  was  150,000  francs  per  month. 
Lacratelle  says  that  the  total  expenses  of  the  Pare  aux 
Cerfs   absorbed   one   hundred   millions   of  francs. 

I  The  father  of  Louis  Philippe,  better  known  as  Égalité. 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  21 

King's  recovery,  which  were  marshalled  out  and 
regulated  to  last  three  days  longer,  are  all  at 
an  end,  of  course  ;  and  I  suppose  the  canons  of 
St.  Geneviève  will  seal  up  their  relics  again,  and 
cover  them,  without  any  great  parade.* 

It  was  my  lot  to  be  the  last  person  presented 
to  the  King  and  Madame  du  Barri.  We  have 
been  driven  from  our  late  hotel  to  one  in  the 
Faubourg  St.  Germains,  Parc  Royal,  Rue  du 
Colombier,  for  which  we  had  several  coercive 
reasons.  One  was,  having  a  devil  incarnate  of  a 
landlady  to  deal  with,  lazy  housemaids,  and  more- 
over, a  very  pestilential  smell  exhaling  throughout, 
which  is  by  no  means  an  uncommon  occurrence 
in  this  most  brilliant  of  towns.  Our  present 
apartments  are  much  better  j  the  hotel  is  full. 
We  have  the  Duke  of  Dorset,  a  Chevalier  Douglas 
from  l'Académie  de  Caen,  Mr.  Tuite,  and  Mr.  Hall, 
son  to  Jamaica  Hall,  whom  you  know.  He  has 
been  here  six  months,  in  which  time  he  has  made 

I  The  relics  of  St.  Geneviève,  the  patroness  of  Paris, 
consisting  of  the  bones  of  that  saint,  were  preserved  in  the 
church  of  that  name,  afterwards  the  Panthéon,  and  were 
never  brought  forth,  save  in  the  event  of  the  illness  of  the 
King,  or  of  some  other  public  calamity.  An  unbeliever  in 
the  miraculous  agency  of  these  relics  having  jeered  the 
Abbé  of  St.  Geneviève  upon  their  inefficacy  on  this 
occasion,  the  satirical  priest  replied  :  '*  What  more  would 
you  have  them  do — is  he  not  dead  ?  " 


22  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

a  shift  to  see  the  end  of  ten  thousand  pounds, 
what  with  play,  a  lady  of  the  stage,  and  his 
tailor's  bill.  This  last  amounted  (as  my  man 
heard  from  his)  to  no  less  than  a  thousand 
guineas  !  His  French  valet  de  chambre,  after  de- 
frauding him  by  exorbitant  bills,  &c.,  of  about  the 
same  sum,  was  detected  at  last  by  an  English 
wine  merchant,  and  shown  up  to  his  master,  who 
discharged  him.  The  other  night  Hall  lost  one 
thousand  five  hundred  more,  and  would  have  been 
unable  to  discharge  the  bill  of  the  house,  if  his 
principal  winner  had  not  lent  him  a  sum  sufficient 
for  the  purpose.  He  must  be  a  thick-headed 
youth,  and  unless  this  his  first  expedition  out  of 
the  British  dominions  should  have  refined  his 
understanding  as  it  has  cleared  his  pocket,  I  think 
he  will  be  fit  for  nothing  but  to  be  a  mule-driver. 

Mr.   and    Miss    inhabit    the    back 

apartments  of  the  Hôtel  d'Espagne  opposite  our 
windows,  and  seem  to  live  in  great  amity  and 
cordiality.  They  have  a  young  child  with  them. 
Madame  d'Anglures  goes  on  Friday  to  Orleans  on 
her  way  to  Blois,  and  we  have  some  thought  of 
joining  her  there,  for  a  séjour  in  Paris  will  be  a 
dull  concern  at  this  period,  though  the  grief  of 
the  nation  is  by  no  means  the  cause  of  it.  1 
never,  indeed,  saw  joy  more  visible  than  it  appears 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ET<^.  2$ 

to  be  on  the  loss  of  this  same  Louis  le  bien-aimé, 
whose  illness  was  once  the  object  of  so  much 
alarm  and  anxiety.  Indeed,  never  did  a  king 
deserve  more  than  he  did  to  lose  the  affections 
of  his  people. 

I  have  been  to  the  gallery  of  the  Luxembourg, 
where  part  of  the  royal  collection  is  exhibited. 
There  are  but  very  few  fine  pictures.  The  Jardins 
de  la  Boissiere,  in  the  Rue  de  Clichy,  are  in  a 
fine,  commanding  situation,  but  of  wretched  taste. 


Orleans,  June,  1774. 

We  left  Paris  some  days  ago,  and,  in  compli- 
ance with  your  wish  that  I  should  send  you  a 
description  of  our  tour,  I  will  keep  a  sort  of 
journal  of  all  I  see,  and  forward  it  to  you  de  terns 
en  terns.  I  intend  giving  way  to  my  propensity 
to  taking  views,  wherever  I  see  anything  worth 
admiring,  and  my  letters  to  you  may  serve  to 
illustrate  them. 

On  leaving  Paris,  we  traversed  a  rich  arable 
country,  full  of  quarries  or  pits  of  stone,  worked 
by  a  wheel.  There  are  fine  valleys  near  Monthery, 
where  the  ruins  of  a  castle  rise  boldly  on  the  brow 
of  a  hill  above  the  town,  the  approach  to  which  is 
through  avenues  of  trees.  In  the  villages  the 
peasants    plant    acacias    betore    their    doors,    and 


24  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  numbers  increase  as  one  advances  nearer  to 
Orleans.  After  passing  the  plain  of  Beauce,  and 
the  great  forest  of  Orleans,  which  is  all  young 
wood  as  far  as  I  could  see,  we  came  to  a  flat 
country  full  of  villas  and  scattered  cottages,  and 
arrived  at  Orleans  at  nine  in  the  evening.  The 
Rue  Royale,  regularly  built,  leads  from  the  Place 
du  M  artery  to  the  new  bridge.  This  street  is  too 
narrow.  In  a  recess  on  one  side  is  placed  the 
brass  statue  of  the  Pucelle,  which  was  originally 
raised  by  Charles  VII.  on  the  old  bridge.  He  is 
represented  in  armour,  kneeling  with  her  at  the 
feet  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  holding  the  dead  Christ 
in  her  arms.  There  is  no  merit  in  any  of  these 
figures.  The  bridge  is  upon  elliptical  arches,  and 
almost  without  any  ascent  either  way.  It  is  re- 
markable for  its  simplicity  and  air  of  solidity;  an 
iron  gate  between  small  turrets  closes  the  south 
end,  and  opens  upon  a  grand  avenue.  Near  the 
north  end,  one  arch  of  the  old  crooked  bridge 
still  remains  ;  parts  of  the  old  walls  are  standing, 
thin  and  slightly  built  with  pebbles  buried  in 
mortar.  The  church  of  St.  Agnes  is  remarkable 
for  having  the  upper  part  of  its  buttresses  ter- 
minated with  a  filigree  banister  instead  of  the 
common  pinnacle.  Over  the  sacristy  door  are 
foliages  like  crisped  cabbage. 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  25 

The  mall,  or  public  walk,  on  the  northern 
rampart,  is  one  of  the  finest  shady  avenues  I  ever 
saw,  but  its  being  open  to  the  north  makes  it 
unfit  for  winter  use.  The  cathedral  of  St.  Croix 
has  been  built  at  various  periods.  The  west  front 
is  quite  new;  it  is  Gothic  in  its  ornaments,  and 
upon  the  whole  a  grand  piece  of  work,  though  it 
will  not  bear  a  comparison  with  the  light  elegant 
buildings  of  the  thirteenth  century.  The  choir  part, 
which  is  ancient,  is  in  a  good  style,  but  Grecian 
pillars  and  a  heavy  screen  of  the  Corinthian  order 
have  been  added  to  disfigure  it,  and  to  clash  with 
the  airy  roof  and  the  light  cloisters  of  Gothic 
columns. 

The  Benedictine  convent  is  so  white  within, 
that  no  eye  can  bear  to  look  upon  it.  Their 
library  is  open  to  the  public.  The  pavement  of 
the  city  is  very  strange,  but  clean.  The  inhabi- 
tants are  a  wealthy  set  of  men,  but  unfortunately 
divided  into  jarring  parties  of  nobles,  financiers, 
merchants,    burghers,    Jansenists,    and    Molinists.* 


I  The  Jansenists  were  thus  designated  from  their 
following  the  so-called  heterodox  but  severe  dogmas  of 
Jansenius,  Bishop  of  Ypres.  The  Molinists  derived  their 
name  from  their  adhesion  to  the  doctrines  of  the  Spanish 
Jesuit,  MoUna.  The  discussions  and  dissensions  that  arose 
between  these  two  sects  occupied  France  and  Rome  during 
fifty  years,  and  might  have  continued  to  this  hour  had  not 


26  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

Their  ton  îs  vulgar,  but  they  keep  very  good 
tables,  and  are  extremely  civil  to  strangers.  Sugar 
refineries,  traffic,  and  manufacture  of  Spanish  wool, 
Levant  trade  for  caps  and  coarse  porcelain,  are 
the  great  branches  of  commerce  in  this  town. 
There  is  a  great  deal  of  what  is  called  "devotion" 
here. 

In  the  time  of  the  first  French  Kings,  Orleans 
was  the  capital  of  a  kingdom.  In  1429  it  with- 
stood the  attack  of  the  English,  and  the  siege  was 
raised  by  the  famous  Joan  d'Arc.  There  is  great 
abundance  of  fruit  in  the  market  here.  The  fashion- 
able walk  in  winter  is  the  cemetery  of  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  Croix,  although  there  are  heaps 
of  human  bones  piled  up  in  every  corner.  I  could 
discover  no  traces  of  the  fortifications  mentioned 
in  the  history  of  the  siege  of  1488. 

I  have  visited  the  banks  of  the  Loiret — a  sweet 
country.  The  river  rises  at  La  Sourée,  a  country- 
house  belonging  to  M.  Boutin,  two  leagues  south 
of  Orleans.  It  was  the  residence  of  Lord  Boling- 
broke    during   his   exile.*      The   present    possessor, 


the  Revolution  put  an  end  to  all  theological  disputes,  and 
confounded  all  faith,  all  religion,  in  the  same  hideous 
proscription. 

I  Henry,  first  Viscount  Bolingbroke,  Secretary  of  State 
to  Queen  Anne.     He  was  attainted  in  1714. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  27 

a  financier,  instead  of  following  the  dictates  of 
Nature,  who  pointed  out  such  a  scope  for  real 
beauty  and  embellishments,  has  lavished  immense 
sums  and  taken  incredible  pains  to  distort  every 
feature  of  her,  and  to  degrade  each  part  of  the 
scenery.  The  spring  which  bubbles  up  with  great 
force  and  in  a  large  volume  of  water  in  the  plain 
at  the  foot  of  the  slope,  is  jammed  up  in  a  circular 
basin,  and  then  let  through  a  narrow  gullet  into  a 
long  canal,  resembling  in  figure  a  child  in  swad- 
dling clothes.  He  has  opened  vistas  where  there 
is  nothing  to  see,  pruned  up  the  trees  till  they 
look  like  broomsticks,  and  levelled  the  low  ground 
till  he  has  made  a  swamp  of  it. 

There  is  one  pretty  retired  walk  of  alders  hang- 
ing over  another  stream,  but  its  colour  is  muddy 
and  inferior  to  that  of  the  Loiret,  which  no  sooner 
escapes  from  these  shades  of  false  taste  than  it 
swells  into  a  fine  river,  deep  and  full.  The  plain 
on  the  right  hand  is  set  thick  with  poplars  and 
willows,  growing  with  pleasing  luxuriancy.  On  the 
left  is  a  cultivated  ridge  of  hills,  crowned  with 
villas,  gardens  and  cottages,  reflected  in  the  crystal 
waters.  Mills  are  at  work,  and  boats  ply  upon  the 
Loiret  at  a  musket  shot  from  the  spring,  and  shoals 
ot  fish  are  seen  in  every  part  of  it. 

The  bridge  of  Olivet,  near  which  Poltrot  shot 


28  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  Duke  de  Guise/  affords  very  beautiful  pros- 
pects on  both  sides.  About  a  mile  below  is  a 
small  country  residence  called  La  Motte  Bouquin  ; 
the  view  from  thence  is  delightful  towards  Or- 
leans, which  closes  the  northern  horizon.  The 
upper  garden  is  laid  out  in  flat  terraces  and  par- 
terres and  a  small  grove,  all  as  pretty  as  the  style 
allows;  but  the  real  beauties  of  the  place  lie  on 
the  edge  of  the  river,  which  is  here  of  a  con- 
siderable breadth,  with  clumps  of  aquatic  trees 
overshading  its  banks,  and  watermills  going  in 
different  points.  A  terrace  by  the  waterside  leads 
to  a  covered  walk  between  the  Loiret  and  a  canal, 
which  receives  a  supply  from  innumerable  springs 
that  gush  out  of  the  hills.  The  waters  are  extremely 
cold,  and  render  the  walk  delicious  in  hot  weather, 
A  seat  in  an  arbour  commands  a  romantic  scene 
down  the  water,  and  about  a  couple  of  miles  lower 
down  the  Loiret  falls  into  the  Loire. 

La  Boudon,  a  country-house  on  the  Loiret,  is 
in  a  damp,  aguish  situation.  The  river  is  dammed 
up  by  a  mill  into  a  pretty  basin  near  it  ;  there  are 
many  fine  springs   issuing  out   of  the   banks,  and 

I  Francis,  Duke  de  Guise,  eldest  son  of  Claude,  first 
Duke,  one  of  the  most  eminent  of  this  illustrious  family,  and 
one  of  the  most  bitter  enemies  of  the  Huguenots,  He  was 
shot  by  a  Protestant  gentleman  named  Poltrot  de  Merey,  on 
the  gth  of  February,  1563,  during  the  siege  of  Orleans. 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  29 

the   walks    are   very   rural    by   the    waterside,    but 

it  is  by  no  means  an  ehgible  residence.     I  walked 

to   the   mouth   of   the    Loiret,   near   the    abbey    of 

St.   Marmin — an    agreeable   grove    almost   fills   the 

angle  at  the  junction   of  the    rivers — but  just   at 

that   spot  are  too  many  acres  of  barren  sand,   on 

which,  however,  grows   a   considerable  quantity   of 

asparagus    firom    seeds    washed    down    out    of   the 

extensive  gardens  that  cover  the  plain  above. 

M.  Desfriches,  a  dilettante  painter  here,  draws 

landscapes  in  a  mellow  style  and  with  fine  lights  ; 

the  foliage  of  his  trees  is  remarkably  light  and  well 

raised,  and  he  enlivens  his  clear  parts  by  drawing 

upon  chalked  paper  and  scraping,  while  he  darkens 

the  shadow  of  the  crayon  with  touches  of  Indian 

ink.  ^__ 

BloiSf  July. 

Having  sent  the  baggage  by  water,  we  brought 
Madame  d'Anglures  and  Madame  de  Marçois  in 
our  coach  to  Blois.  As  far  as  Mauny  the  country 
is  a  pretty  vineyard,  with  an  extensive  view  over 
the  Loire  into  Sologne,  which  appears  a  forest 
from  that  distance.  Near  Beaugency  is  more 
arable  ground.  It  is  an  ancient  town,  on  a  declivity, 
with  ruined  towers  and  walls. 

I  dined  with  the  Marquis  de  Marigni  at  Menars; 
he   is   the   brother    of  the    celebrated   Madame    de 


30  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

Pompadour.^  The  prospect  from  his  house  is 
magnificent.  The  river  forms  a  noble  sweep  in 
front,  and  there  is  a  boundless  view  over  the 
opposite  plains,  which  are  richly  cultivated.  The 
terraces  between  the  house  and  the  river  are  con- 
structed in  the  best  taste  and  at  an  incredible 
expense.  The  furniture  of  the  house  is  most 
superb.  It  consists  of  the  finest  Gobelin  tapestry, 
real  chintz  beds,  fine  worked  silks,  paintings,  china 
jars,  mirrors,  &c.  The  French  may  well  say, 
"  Nous  avons  payé  pour  tout  cela." 

On  the  right  of  the  château  are  an  orangery 
and  temple,  adjoining  a  wood  intended  to  repre- 
sent an  English  shrubbery.  It  is  cut  into  narrow 
winding  paths,  not  deficient  in  taste.  A  small 
stream  tumbles  down  little  cascades  by  the  side 
of  it,  and  the  walk  is  very  judiciously  extended 
to  the  machine  which  raises  the  water  to  the 
house,  and  occasionally  keeps  the  rivulet  running. 

I  Jeanne  Antoinette  Poisson,  daughter  of  a  butcher  to 
the  Invalides,  or,  as  otliers  assert,  of  a  M.  de  Tourneheim, 
a  rich  fermier-général,  who  adopted  her,  gave  her  an  admirable 
education,  and  married  her  to  his  nephew,  M.  d'Étiolés. 
Louis  XV.  met  her  at  a  masked  ball  at  the  Opera,  became 
forthwith  enamoured  of  her,  and  it  was  not  long  ere  she 
was  publicly  recognised  and  courted  as  his  mistress.  In 
1745  she  was  created  Marquise  de  Pompadour,  an  ancient 
and  extinct  title  with  which  she  had  not  the  remotest  con- 
nection. Her  brother,  Poisson,  was  soon  after  created  Mar- 
quis de  Marigni.     She  died  at  the  palace  of  Versailles  in  1764. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  31 

The  other  part  of  the  gardens  is  composed  of  a 
large  extent  of  low,  young  wood,  cut  into  stars 
and  alleys,  with  statues  and  temples.  A  group 
of  Zephyrs  and  Flora  is  a  pleasing  piece  of  sculp- 
ture. The  park  is  divided  since  M.  de  Marigni 
had  the  great  post-road  brought  on  this  side  of 
the  river  by  order  of  the  Government,  for  his  con- 
venience. It  abounds  with  game,  and  contains 
about  two  hundred  acres  of  wood. 

Blois  covers  the  steep  slope  of  a  rocky  hill 
on  the  northern  banks  of  the  Loire.  Its  streets 
are  precipitous,  narrow  and  crooked.  The  buildings 
of  the  upper  town  stand  upon  two  knolls  ;  the  low 
town  occupies  a  slip  of  level  ground  in  the  inter- 
mediate hollow,  which  appears  to  have  been  stolen 
from  the  river,  that  is  said  to  have  formerly  run  in 
several  channels  and  to  have  washed  the  foot  of  the 
hills.  It  has  long  been  confined,  however,  to  one 
straight  bed,  over  which  a  noble  stone  bridge  was 
thrown  in  1717,  to  join  the  suburb  of  Vienne  to 
the  city.  The  walk  and  gates  remain,  and  over 
each  of  the  latter  is  an  image  of  the  Virgin.  On 
the  eastern  point  of  the  hill  is  the  church  of 
Solenne,  which  the  Bishop  of  Chartres  made  an 
episcopal  cathedral  through  the  interest  of  Madame 
de  Maintenon.  Several  livings  attached  to  it  form 
a  revenue    of  sixty  thousand  livres  for  the  bishop. 


32  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

The  Steeple  is  a  barbarous  tower  of  the  Cor- 
inthian order,  crowned  with  a  kind  of  skull-cap, 
all  which  composes  a  heavy  pile  of  building. 

The  bishop's  palace  and  gardens  command  a 
very  extensive  view  over  town  and  country.  Upon 
the  western  extremity  of  the  hill  is  the  ancient 
castle  of  the  sovereigns  of  Blois.  Twenty- three 
families  have  apartments  in  it.  The  size  of  the 
buildings,  extent  of  the  courts,  and  vestiges  of 
terraces,  gardens  and  outworks,  bespeak  a  royal 
though  abandoned  residence.  The  west  front  of 
the  castle  was  built  by  Gaston  d' Orleans,  and 
Mansard  was  the  architect.  It  cost  three  millions 
and  a  half  of  livres.  The  bad  taste  of  the  day 
led  Gaston  to  destroy  the  noble  gardens,  planted 
far  into  the  country  by  Catherine  de  Medicis,  and 
to  surround  his  palace  with  bulwarks,  like  a  state 
prison.  The  low  building  at  the  east  end  was 
built  by  Francis  I.,  whose  emblem  (the  Salaman- 
der) appears  everywhere.  Henry,  Duke  de  Guise, 
was  stabbed  in  the  centre  apartment,  as  he  stood 
near  the  balcony.^     His  brother,  the  cardinal,  was 

I  Henry  of  Lorraine,  Duke  de  Guise,  commonly  called 
the  Balafré  from  a  wound  that  he  received  in  the  face  at 
the  battle  of  Château  Thierri.  He  was  murdered  by  order 
of  Henry  HI.,  by  a  certain  St.  M  alines,  captain  of  the 
Cent  Suisses,  as  he  was  about  to  enter  the  council  chamber, 
December  23rd,  1558. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  33 

despatched  in  the  great  tower,  near  the  west  end, 
called  La  Tour  du  Château  Reynault.^ 

Blois  is  not  mentioned  until  the  ninth  century. 
It  was  afterwards  governed  by  sovereign  earls,  of 
which  Stephen,  King  of  England,  was  one.  It 
then  devolved  on  the  Crown,  and  many  Kings  of 
France  resided  there,  and  adorned  it  with  noble 
edifices.  The  inhabitants,  polished  by  the  Court, 
were  long  remarkable  for  the  purity  of  their  accent 
and  language.  Innocent  XII.  erected  it  into  an 
episcopal  see.  The  public  walk  here  is  over  the 
bridge,  a  short  and  hot  one,  but  pleasant. 

The  conseil  supérieur  was  fixed  here*  when  the 
parliament  was  destroyed,  and  was  composed  of 
the  members  of  the  chambre  des  comptes,  of  needy 
Parisian  lawyers  and  people  who  were  not  bred  to 
the  law.  The  establishment  has  made  house-rent 
dear,  but  has  brought  money  to  Blois.  Society  is 
here  on  a  very  easy  footing;  all  ranks  intermix, 
and  seem  to  be  clear  of  parties  and  quarrels.  Card- 
playing    and    evening    walks    constitute    the    chief 

I  Louis,  Cardinal  de  Guise,  who  was  within  the  council 
chamber  of  the  States-General,  and  hearing  the  voice  of  his 
dying  relation,  sprang  up  and  endeavoured  to  hasten  to  his 
assistance,  but  he  was  held  back  by  the  Cardinal  de  Retz 
and  others,  and  conveyed  to  a  distant  chamber  or  cell,  in 
wUich  he  was  assassinated  on  the  following  day. 

7,  These  conseils  supérieurs  were  established  when  Louis 
XV.  annulled  the  provincial  parliaments. 

VOL.    I  a 


34  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

amusements  of  the  place,  and  certainly,  "  toutes  les 
femmes  de  Blots  ne  sont  pas  rousses  et  acariâtres ^^ 
according  to  Voltaire's  story,  for  we  have  met 
some  very  good-humoured,  apparently,  with  black 
eyes  and  black  hair. 

At  St.  Gervais,  a  small  village  south  of  the 
water,  is  prepared  the  famous  creme  de  Blots, 
which  is  sold  throughout  the  year  in  pots  at  one 
sou  each.  It  is  very  savoury  and  rich  ;  I  suppose, 
whipped  into  a  lather  and  thickened  by  some  art. 
The  mills  on  the  Loire  are  moored  in  the  middle 
of  the  stream,  and  shifted  as  the  currents  vary. 
In  summer,  half  the  river  disappears  and  leaves 
large  banks  of  sand. 

At  Blois  they  make  liquorice  cakes,  but  as  it 
is  extracted  from  the  wild  root  it  has  not  the  rich- 
ness of  the  cultivated  Pomfret  plant. 

Below  the  castle  is  the  abbey  of  St.  Jannes, 
not  far  from  the  bridge;  south  of  it  is  a  great 
extent  of  plain,  bounded  by  the  forest  and  extremely 
fruitful  in  all  sorts  of  corn  except  oats,  of  which  I 
saw  no  fields  anywhere  in  the  neighbourhood.  The 
gentle  swellings  that  skirt  the  level  are  clothed 
with  vines,  plots  of  kidney-beans  and  hemp.  Hay 
is  abundant  by  the  side  of  the  little  river  Gauchon, 
which  comes  from  Chambord,  and,  traversing  the 
flat  in  a  shallow  black  stream,  overflows  the  meadows 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,    ETC.  35 

half  the  year.  For  this  reason  the  hay  is  coarse 
and  sour.  The  waters  of  the  Loire  are  confined 
on  both  sides  by  high,  strong  dykes,  except  where 
the  land  is  of  no  value,  and  then  the  superfluous 
waters  are  allowed  to  spread  in  floods,  to  diminish 
the  weight  elsewhere. 

The  forest  of  Prussec  covers  the  hills  south  of 
Blois.  There  are  delightful  rides  in  all  parts  of 
it,  and  great  variety  of  thickets,  open  groves  and 
verdant  lawns,  but  no  valuable  timber.  The  country 
people  steal  so  much,  and  hack  the  trees  in  so 
clumsy  a  manner,  that  none  can  come  to  any  size. 
The  species  most  common  in  these  woods  are  oak 
with  the  common  broad  leaf,  a  kind  with  narrow 
pale-coloured  leaves,  like  those  of  the  willow,  beech, 
hornbeam,  maple,  ash,  hawthorn,  holly,  juniper, 
laburnum,  blackthorn,  hazel  and  tall  heath. 

Beauregard,  the  seat  of  the  Count  de  Gaucourt, 
stands  on  the  verge  of  the  forest,  in  a  fine  situa- 
tion. 

I  rode  to  Pont-le-Voye,  a  great  Benedictine 
college,  then  across  the  plains  to  the  Pont-aux-Cailles, 
where  I  had  a  charming  view  of  the  valleys  at  the 
edge  of  the  forest,  with  a  church  rising  under  a  hill. 
From  thence  we  proceeded  to  Montels,  a  rambling 
village  near  the  Beuvron,  a  deep  and  muddy  rivulet. 
A  large  round  rumous  tower,  and  a  ditch  or  moat, 

3— a 


36  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Still  remain  of  the  old  hunting-seat  of  the  Earls  of 
Blois,  on  a  bold,  pleasant  site. 

Pont-le-Voye  stands  on  a  small  eminence  in  a 
valley  surrounded  with  a  vast  plain  and  forests 
on  all  sides.  The  Counts  d'Amboise  founded  the 
convent,  of  which  the  church  remains  imperfect. 
The  college  is  a  separate  establishment,  and  seems 
conducted  on  a  liberal,  comprehensive  plan.  All 
sorts  of  exercises  and  sciences  are  taught,  as  well 
as  ancient  and  modern  languages.  Eight  hours 
are  allotted  to  study,  play,  and  exercises.  The 
annual  charge  is  thirty  pounds,  everything  in- 
cluded. The  boys  all  sleep  in  separate  beds. 
There  is  a  servant  for  each  dormitory  ;  and  three 
invalid  soldiers  parade  all  night  to  prevent  fire, 
or  alarm  in  case  of  accident.  The  monks  have 
a  large  domain,  and  the  students  are  indulged 
on  holidays  with  refreshments  at  their  different 
farmhouses.  The  English  master  is  an  Irish 
abbé  with  a  strong  brogue. 

The  forest  of  Blois,  north  of  the  river,  leads 
to  the  abbey  of  La  Guiche,  founded  by  Jean  de 
Chatillon,  Earl  of  Blois,  for  nuns  of  St.  Clare. 
His  monument,  in  black  marble,  is  before  the  high 
altar.  The  convent  stands  close  to  the  river 
Eisse,  hemmed  in  by  woody  hills,  and  much  ex- 
posed to  inundations. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  37 

Chaumont  is  six  leagues  down  the  river. 
Through  sandy  plains  behind  the  suburb  of 
Vienne,  and  over  the  Cisson,  up  some  pretty 
fields,  I  came  to  the  village  of  Candé.  The 
seigneur  is  a  counsellor  of  the  Parliament  of 
Paris,  and  has  an  elegant  new  house  in  an  ad- 
mirable position. 

I  crossed  the  Beuvron,  and  traversed  a  thick 
wood — was  some  time  at  a  loss  for  the  road,  till 
I  reached  a  cottage  romantically  situated  in  a 
small  lawn  under  a  steep  woody  bank.  About 
half  a  mile  further  I  got  out  of  the  woods, 
and  rode  through  some  fine  meadows  to  the 
foot  of  the  promontory  on  which  the  castle  of 
Chaumont  rises  most  majestically,  overlooking 
the  course  of  the  Loire  for  many  miles  each  way. 
The  opposite  hills  are  beautiful.  Blois  is  seen 
plainly,  and  Orleans  may  be  discovered  on  a 
clear  day,  as  well  as  Amboise,  distant  to  the 
west. 

The  castle  in  its  present  state  was  the  work  of 
Cardinal  George  d'Amboise,  who  was  born  in  the 
old  castle,  the  seat  of  his  illustrious  ancestors. 
Diane  de  Poictiers,  Catherine  of  Medicis,  Sardina 
of  Lucca,  &c.,  have  possessed  it  in  their  turns.  It 
consists  of  a  great  gateway  flanked  with  towers, 
on  which  is  carved  a  blazing  mountain,  meant  for 


38  LETTERS    FROM     THE 

a  quibble  upon  the  name  of  the  place.*  The  car- 
dinal's hat  and  arms  appear  over  many  of  the 
windows,  and  in  some  of  the  apartments  are  the 
devices  and  escutcheons  of  the  Duchess  of  Valen- 
tinois,**  viz.,  quivers,  bugle-horns,  and  crescents. 
She  ceded  the  castle  to  Catherine  de  Medicis,  who 
took  a  fancy  to  it.  This  gateway  leads  into  what 
was  formerly  a  spacious  court,  but  Le  Roy  pulled 
down  all  the  north  range,  and  made  a  terrace, 
which  is  a  very  beautiful  walk  in  moderate  weather. 
The  situation  is,  however,  so  elevated,  that  there  is 
almost  always  a  great  deal  of  wind,  and  frequently 
so  much  as  to  render  the  place  extremely  dis- 
agreeable. 

Another  day  I  rode  through  the  forests  of 
Blois  to  the  Vale  of  Chambord.  There  are  de- 
lightful eminences  on  the  skirts  of  the  forest, 
covered    with    vines    and    coppice,    through    which 


1  Chaumont,  Chaud-mont. 

2  The  famous  Diane  de  Poictiers,  created  Duchess  of 
Valentinois  by  Henry  II.,  in  1548.  The  history  of  this 
renowned  beauty  is  too  well  known  to  require  observation  ; 
but  the  following  epigram,  alluding  to  the  immense  influence 
she  had  obtained  over  her  royal  lover,  is  perhaps  less 
common  : — 

♦'Sirel  si  vous  laissez,  comme  Charles*  désire, 
Comme  Diane  veut,  par  trop  gouverner, 
Fondre,  pétrir,  mollir,  refondre,  retourner. 
Sir»  !  vous  n'êtes  plus — vous  n'êtes  plus  que  cire.** 

*  Cardinal  Charles  de  Lorraine, 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  3g 

innumerable  country-houses  and  cottages  rear  their 
heads.  The  hedges  abound  in  a  variety  of  pretty 
shrubs.  The  waters  of  the  Eisse,  as  clear  as 
crystal,  wind  through  large  meadows  divided  by 
rows  of  poplars.  The  hills  on  each  side  are 
studded  with  houses.  The  ruins  of  the  Château 
de  Bury  rise  nobly  upon  an  eminence.  Its  white 
towers  make  a  fine  contrast  with  the  trees  that 
grow  amongst  them. 

Chambord  is  three  leagues  out  of  Blois.^  Its 
park  is  about  twenty  miles  in  circumference,  full 
of  woods  and  corn-fields,  but  the  walls  are  broken 
down  in  many  places.  The  Cisson  runs  through 
it.  The  castle  stands  close  to  the  river,  in  an 
ugly  marshy  bottom.  It  is  a  stupendous  pile  of 
building  of  stone,  in  a  strange,  whimsical  style  of 
architecture,  parts  of  which  are  neatly  executed. 
The  great  staircase  is  exactly  a  double  corkscrew  ; 
two  persons  may  descend  at  the  same  time,  see 
each  other  on  a  level  through  windows  that  are 
opened  in  the  niches,  yet  never  join  or  overtake 
one  another. 

The   apartments  are  royally  spacious,  but   en- 

I  Chambord  was  built  by  François  I.  It  will  be  recol- 
lected that  this  château  was  purchased  by  the  nation,  and 
presented  to  the  Duke  de  Bordeaux.  The  celebrated  Paul 
Louis  Courrier  wrote  a  libel  upon  this  subject,  and  was  fined 
and  imprisoned  in  consequence. 


40  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

tirely  stripped  of  furniture,  except  the  bed-chamber 
of  the  late  Maréchal  de  Saxe,  and  the  theatre, 
which  is  completely  fitted  up.  Nobody  now  re- 
sides in  the  main  body  of  the  house.  It  was  a 
hunting-seat  of  the  Earls  of  Blois.  In  the  six- 
teenth century,  François  I.  employed  twelve  hun- 
dred men  in  converting  this  place  into  a  park. 
Stanislaus,  King  of  Poland,  resided  here,  and  after 
him  Maréchal  Saxe.  Its  situation  cannot  fail  to 
be  unwholesome,  as  the  palace  is  environed  with 
immense  woods  and  standing  waters  ;  however, 
the  inhabitants  are  thinning  the  forest  very  fast. 


Bordeaux,  August,  1774. 

We  left  Blois  after  breakfasting  with  Lady 
Kenmure,  who  has  resided  there  ever  since  her 
husband  was  attainted,  and  proceeded  to  Amboise, 
a  rude  heap  of  strange  buildings.  The  castle  is 
an  uncouth  compound  of  buildings  of  different 
ages,  upon  an  irregular  rock,  and  enjoys  a  noble 
view.  On  the  hill  west  of  the  town  is  Chanteloup, 
the  seat  of  the  deposed  minister,  the  Duke  de 
Choiseul.^     The  edifice  is  very  extensive,  of  a   fiat 

I  Etienne  François,  Duke  de  Choiseul,  prime  minister  to 
Louis  XV.,  whose  omnipotence  continued  intact  until  he  and 
his  party  fell  victims  to  the  intrigues  of  Madame  du  Barri, 
who  succeeded  in  getting  him  disgraced,  and  replaced  by  the 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  41 

form,  with  large  office  wings.  An  old  wood  runs 
behind  it,  and  there  is  great  variety  of  ground 
in  front. 

St.  Levis,  at  a  league's  distance  from  Tours, 
runs  close  to  a  ridge  of  rocks  that  face  a  very 
long  range  of  hills.  They  are  excavated,  with 
dwellings,  and  cellars  with  doors,  windows,  and 
galleries.  Where  there  is  sufficient  room,  villas 
and  cottages  are  built  before  them,  and  hanging 
gardens  are  contrived  in  the  bank.  Some  romantic 
ruins  are  placed  on  the  point  of  the  rocks,  and, 
with  the  winding  Loire,  the  city  of  Tours,  and 
the  abbey  of  Marmontier,  compose  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  landscapes  in  nature.  The  new 
bridge  of  Tours  is  of  handsome  white  stone,  with 
flattened  arches.  The  interior  part  of  the  city  is 
dirty,  narrow,  and  ill-built;  but  a  street  is  now 
carrying  round  the  town,  a  sort  of  boulevard, 
which,  although  irregular,  will  be  very  grand. 
We   had   a   broad,  excellent   road   here,   in   a  vast 

Duke  d'Aiguillon  and  the  Chancellor  Maupeou.  They  men- 
tion the  following  anecdote  of  Madame  du  Barri,  who  was 
so  intent  upon  the  disgrace  of  Choiseul,  and  so  inimical  to 
him,  that  she  discharged  her  head  cook  because  he  happened 
to  bear  a  striking  resemblance  to  her  enemy.  Having  done 
this,  she  said  to  Louis  XV.  :  "  I  have  discharged  my  Choiseul, 
when  wiïl  you  dismiss  yours  ?  "  The  disgrace  of  Choiseul 
took  place  in  1770,  and  was  the  forerunner  of  the  exile  of  the 
parliaments,  and  thence  of  a  great  portion  of  the  disasters 
that  ensued. 


42  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

open  tract  of  arable  country,  bearing  a  resemblance 
to  a  disparked  forest,  studded  with  large  tufted 
chesnut  and  walnut  trees,  thickening  into  woods 
and  groves  as  the  landscape  retires  up  the  hills; 
there  are  many  country  seats  on  the  eminences, 
or  at  the  verge  of  the  wood. 

The  Creuse  is  a  placid,  muddy  stream.  Les 
Ormes,  the  château  of  M.  de  Paulmy,  is  a  spacious 
new  house,  in  a  rich  but  false  taste  of  decoration. 
The  banks  of  the  Vienne,  on  which  the  garden 
front  looks,  are  fertile  and  pleasing;  it  winds  in  a 
gentle,  picturesque  manner  between  handsome  emi- 
nences clad  with  vineyards  and  woods.  The 
higher  plains  are  laid  out  in  corn,  and  are  full  of 
fruit  trees.  Châtelhérault  affords  a  fine  view,  with 
its  steeples  and  bridges,  over  the  placid  Vienne  ; 
but,  on  a  nearer  look,  its  charms  vanish,  and  the 
town  appears  to  the  traveller  in  its  true  colours — 
the  nastiest,  worst  built,  and  worst  paved  place 
in  France.  From  hence  a  very  beautiful  road  is 
cut  in  a  direct  line  up  a  gentle  acclivity  through 
some  large  oak  woods,  with  a  château  in  perspec- 
tive. The  country  grows  barer  on  the  approach 
to  that  city,  and  an  enchanting  view  suddenly  un- 
folds itself. 

The  river  Clair,  clear  and  silent,  creeps  through 
the  willows  in  a  narrow   vale,  which   hems  in  the 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  43 

road  on  the  left  hand.  Steep  rocks  close  the 
right  side,  and  in  front  rises  a  fine  amphitheatre 
of  villas,  gardens,  cottages,  woods,  and  rocks. 
One  beautiful  cypress  adds  greatly  to  the  general 
effect.  At  the  extremity  of  this  theatrical  prospect, 
Poitiers  appears  on  the  point  of  a  high  brow, 
perched  like  an  ancient  fortress.  There  are  some 
striking  ruins  in  the  bottom,  some  towers  clad 
with  ivy,  and  romantic  vestiges  of  walls  and  cas- 
cades. It  is  a  poor,  depopulated  city,  with  some 
remains  of  Roman  magnificence  still  extant.  The 
public  walks  are  very  fine.  It  was  at  the  distance 
of  a  stone's  throw  from  the  town  that  the  battle 
was  fought  in  1356;^  many  of  the  slain  lie  in  the 
church  of  the  Cordeliers. 

The  country  from  thence  is  open,  with  a  few 
straggling  chesnut  trees.  La  Crutelle  is  a  pretty 
spot  in  a  sequestered  valley,  shaded  by  oak  woods, 
and  watered  by  a  clear  rivulet.  The  views  from 
the  hills  are  almost  boundless.  Vivonne  is  a  low, 
dirty  place,  with  a  forest  round  it;  its  soil  is 
gravelly  and  red.  Pruffée,  an  ugly  town  on  an 
eminence,  belongs  to  the  Count  de  Broglie,  a  very 
tyrannical  master. 

Here  begins  a  new  mode  of  roofing  :  the  roofs 


I  The  celebrated  battle  of  Poitiers,   won  by  the   Black 
Prince. 


44  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

are  almost  flat,  like  those  in  the  North  of  Italy, 
the  chimneys  rising  out  of  them.  The  eye  dwells 
with  pleasure  upon  a  rich  landscape.  Near  An- 
goulême  it  is  bare  and  rocky;  it  stands  on  a  high, 
naked  hill,  with  ugly  walls  and  steeples.  The 
Charente  flows  in  the  valley,  clear  and  slow. 
Walnuts  are  the  only  trees.  La  Consonne,  a 
large  convent  of  Genovesan  canons,  is  remarkable 
for  the  architecture  of  its  cupola  and  some  elegant 
works  in  a  screen  before  the  principal  entrance. 
We  passed  Barbézieux,  an  ancient  fortified  place. 
It  is  a  marquisate  belonging  to  the  heiress  of  the 
House  of  Le  Tellier. 

At  Montlieu  we  entered  les  landes,  or  heaths, 
which  are  a  deep  black  sand,  overgrown  with 
whins,  furze  and  heaths,  with  some  oak  and  chesnut 
trees.  In  many  places  there  are  large  clumps  of 
pinasters  of  a  small  size.  We  were  almost  suffo- 
caled  with  dust  and  heat  in  these  parts.  At 
Carignan  is  a  well-cultivated  country,  a  great  deal 
of  Indian  corn  and  vines.  At  Cabrac  we  crossed 
the  Dordogne  in  a  boat,  traversed  the  country 
called  Entre-deux-Mers,  which  generally  inclines  to 
be  wet  and  marshy.  Many  country-houses  were 
dispersed  about.  After  passing  a  ridge  of  woody 
hills,  we  crossed  a  broad  plain  to  the  Bastide, 
where  we   ferried   over  the   Garonne   to   Bordeaux. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  45 

We  have  taken  a  house  on  the  Fossés  du  Tanneur, 
and  shall  stay  here  some  time. 

Few  towns  in  the  world  can  boast  of  so  fine 
a  situation  as  this.  The  Garonne  flows  in  a  con- 
cave semicircle  before  it,  and  opposite  rise  the 
beautiful  hills  of  Entre-deux-Mers.  Its  environs, 
for  many  miles  every  way,  are  covered  with  vines. 
The  quay  along  the  river  is  uniformly  built  for 
a  great  length.  The  square,  with  the  statue  of 
Louis  XV.,  the  exchange,  the  walks  and  ram- 
parts, the  Château  Trompette,  and,  beyond  it,  the 
great  regular  suburb  of  the  Chartreuse,  are  such 
beauties  as  few  cities  can  show.  There  is  nowhere 
so  great  abundance  of  all  kinds  of  provisions  and 
delicacies.     The  trade  is  very  considerable. 

The  elegant  steeple  of  the  Cordeliers  was  built 
while  Guyenne  belonged  to  the  English,  during  the 
reign  of  Edward  III.,  whose  initials  appear  upon 
the  tower.  The  Porte  Basse,  which  is  usually  ac- 
counted a  Roman  work,  is  only  built  with  the 
remains  of  some  great  ruin  of  that  people.  The 
English  never  settled  in  Guyenne,  except  a  very 
few  families;  one  of  the  name  of  Knollys  exists 
near  Lisbourne.  None  but  military  men  come 
hither,  unless,  perhaps,  dealers  in  wool  and  wine, 
and  none  of  these  looked  on  Guyenne  as  their 
home.     Borsis,  a   learned   antiquary   here,  says   he 


46  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

has  never  found  in  any  contract,  confrérie  or 
agreement,  any  English  name  whatsoever,  and 
proves,  by  the  memorandums  of  the  chief  mason, 
and  the  account  of  the  expense,  that  the  steeple 
of  St.  Michael's  church  was  not  built  till  the 
English  had  lost  the  country;  he  says  he  has 
discovered  the  ruins  of  a  lion  carved  by  the  Sara- 
cens after  they  had  demolished  Bordeaux. 


Bordeaux,  March,  1775. 
There  has  been  a  great  piece  of  work  and  re- 
joicing here  on  the  parliament  being  re-established 
by  Louis  XVI.,  sous  les  auspices  de  son  ministère; 
the  Count  de  Noailles  brought  the  intelligence. 
The  exiled  members  returned  to  their  stations, 
and  everybody  seem.ed  in  an  uproar  of  joy.  M. 
de  Noailles  landed  at  the  Château  Rouge  from 
the  city  barge,  after  rowing  up  and  down  the 
river,  through  lines  of  ships,  with  their  colours 
flying,  and  saluting  with  their  guns  :  he  then 
walked  up  through  the  Fossé  de  l'Intendance  to 
the  Government  palace  between  a  file  of  bourgeoisie 
sous  les  armes,  and  preceded  by  the  town  guards 
on  horseback  and  on  foot.  The  acclamations  of 
the  people  and  the  crowded  appearance  of  all  the 
windows  seemed  to  please  him  very  much,  and, 
hke    the    Duke   de    Guise   in   the   "  Henriade,"    he 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,     ETC.  47 

came  along  bowing  and  smiling  to  the  spectators 
on   either   side.^ 

In  the  afternoon  all  the  parliament  men  and 
women  were  assembled  at  La  Chapelle  de  Barbet, 
a  mile  from  the  town,  to  receive  the  premier -pre- 
sident at  a  grand  banquet.  A  triumphal  arch  and 
the  feast  were  prepared  by  the  freemasons,  who 
distributed  invitations,  printed  on  satin,  with 
various  devices.  He  afterwards  proceeded  to  Bor- 
deaux, escorted  by  one  hundred  and  sixty  coaches 
full  of  all  the  town  contains  of  people  of  fashion, 
besides  many  young  men  on  horseback,  and  the 
maréchaussée,  each  side  of  the  road,  every  house- 
top, every  window,  being  crammed  as  full  as 
could  be  with  spectators.  It  was  an  animated 
spectacle.  He  was  received  at  his  own  house  by 
music,  garlands  and  triumphal  mottoes,  and  the 
mob  filled  the  house  so  that  it  was  midnight  be- 
fore he  got  rid  of  them. 

We  went  next  day  to  the  palace,  where  M.  de 
Noailles  arrived  with  his  guards  en  habit  de  cérémonie. 
The  return  of  the  exiles  was  applauded  by  a  most 
numerous  populace  without  and  a  large  assembly 
of  gentlemen   within   the   hall.      The   Manants,  or 

I  The  lines  alluded  to  are  these: — 
"  On  vit  paraître  Guise,"  &c. 

Hcnriade,  Chant  Troisième. 


48  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

such  as  remained  in  1771,  were  hissed  and  hooted 
at  by  the  mob.^  One  of  the  présidents  à  mortier,* 
M.  d'Augeard,  brought  us  by  a  side  door  into  the 
salle  de  conseil ^  where  he  placed  us  close  to  M.  de 
Noailles.  There  were  not  above  twenty  strangers 
admitted.  The  whole  parliament  was  there,  attired 
in  red  gowns.  M.  de  Noailles  opened  the  assembly 
with  a  short  and  proper  speech,  expressive  of  his 
joy  in  being  the  instrument  the  King  had  chosen 
to  employ  in  restoring  the  parliament  of  Bordeaux 
to  his  people,  recommending  union,  &c.  The 
premier  -  president  then  rose  and  pronounced  a 
good  discourse,  but  very  severe  on  the  ministers  of 
the  late  King,  and  replete  with  a  greater  spirit  of 
resolution  and  freedom  than  the  Grand  Mojiarque 
might  have  liked  to  hear.  The  edict  of  re-establish- 
ment was  then  read,  which  is  similar  to  that  of 
Paris.  The  doors  were  then  thrown  open,  and  it 
was  again  read  to  the  multitude.  Your  friend, 
M.  de  Salegourde,  who  had  been  exiled  to  Perre- 
geux,  having  received  a  lettre  de  cachet  like  the  rest, 
is  come  back  and  takes  his  seat. 


1  The  people  of  Bordeaux  applied  this  term,  which 
Uterally  means  a  rustic,  or  boor,  to  all  those  members  of 
parliament   who   did   not   follow  their   colleagues  into  exile. 

2  The  présidents  à  mortier  were  so  called  from  the  pecu- 
liar shape  of  their  black  velvet  official  caps,  which  resembled 
a  mortar. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  4g 

The  premier -president  desired  to  be  remem- 
bered to  you.  It  is  a  glorious  epoch  for  him,  and 
has   repaid  him    for   all  the  vexations  of  his  exile. 

We  are  ail  well  here  except  Popsy,*  who  looks 
poorly.  Her  expectations  of  re-captivating  the 
President  de  Verthamon  are,  I  fear,  vain  ;  he  seems 
to  have  no  inclination  to  resume  his  chains.  His 
apathy  affects  her  much.  Edward  Dillon  succeeds 
admirably  at  Court.  Monsieur  has  created  a  tem- 
porary charge  of  gentilhomme  d'honneur  for  him, 
and  the  Count  d'Artois  charges  it  upon  his  caisse. 
It  gives  him  four  thousand  livres  d'appoi7itemens,  and 
is  a  fine  step  towards  the  summit  of  Fortune's 
wheel,  ^ 

BagnereSf  July  2jth,  'L'JJ^. 

Dear  Brother, — I  have  delayed  writing  that 
I  might  have  time  to  collect  materials  enough  to 
answer  the  purpose  I  propose  in  writing — viz.,  to 
amuse  you  in  some  of  your  long  evenings.  Before 
I  proceed  to  give  an  account  of  my  journey  hither, 
or  my  discovery  since  I  arrived,  I  shall  pass  in 
review  what  parts  of  yours  may  require  an  answer. 

First  with  regard  to  Sorèze,  which  I  take  to 
be   the   college   you  mention  near   Carcassonne;    I 

I  Mademoiselle  Dillon,  afterwards  Marchioness  d'Osmond, 
sister-in-law  to  Sir  E.  Swinburne,  who  married  her  elder  sister. 

VOL.    I  A. 


50  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

have  not  been  able  to  get  much  intelligence  here. 
I  passed  very  near  it  in  going  to  see  the  reser- 
voir at  St.  Ferrol,  and  believe  it  is  situated  close 
by  Berrel,  in  a  pleasant,  hilly  country,  and  conse- 
quently cannot  fail  of  being  in  good  air.  When  I 
was  at  Pontlevry  they  talked  to  me  a  good  deal 
of  their  college  in  Languedoc  ;  it  is  bien  monté  and 
ver}'  numerous,  especially  in  Spaniards,  which, 
perhaps,  may  hurt  the  accent.  They  look  upon 
it  as  rather  on  a  higher  footing  and  reputation 
than  Pontlevry,  but  I  can  say  no  more  of  it.  I 
shall  let  slip  no  opportunity  of  obtaining  infor- 
mation, for  in  all  probability  I  shall  be  in  that 
neighbourhood  in  September,  and  perhaps  may 
meet  with  somebody  from  thence  before  that  time, 

I   knew   of   poor   N being    ill    some    time 

before  you  mentioned  it;  but  as  ill  news  always 
travels  quick  enough,  I  was  not  eager  to  be  the 
messenger.  I  hope,  however,  things  are  not  so 
bad  with  the  dear  little  fellow  as  you  apprehend, 
and  perhaps  it  may  save  him  from  future  attacks 
by  throwing  out  early  the  seeds  of  the  disorder.  I 
really  expected  a  touch  of  the  gout  some  time 
ago  after  drinking  these  waters,  as  I  felt  prickings 
and  uneasiness  in  my  fingers,  &c.,  but  they  went 
off  very  soon,  and  upon  comparing  notes  with  other 
people,  as  I  found  these  shootings  to  be  the  common 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  51 

effect  of  the  waters  in  all  constitutions,  I    became 
easy,  and  concluded  my  day  was  not  come. 

On  the  i6th  of  June  I  left  Bordeaux  with  Sir 
Thomas  Gascoigne  and  Mr.  Harry  Galway.  From 
Auch  to  Rabastiens  the  country  is  exceedingly 
hilly,  but  beautiful,  rich  and  well  wooded  ;  the 
roads  the  finest  imaginable,  carried  down  the  hills 
in  an  easy  manner  at  an  amazing  expense.  From 
Rabastiens  to  Tarbes  it  is  quite  straight  through 
the  plain,  and  this  last-mentioned  city  stands  in 
the  centre  of  one  of  the  best  cultivated  extents  of 
plain  I  ever  passed  through.  Though  a  bishop's 
see,  it  is  but  small,  and  contains  no  curiosities  of 
any  kind.  Gentle  eminences  bound  the  plain  on 
three  sides,  the  Pyrenees  on  the  south. 

From  hence  to  Bagnères,  about  twelve  miles, 
is,  perhaps,  the  prettiest  drive  in  nature,  gradually 
and  imperceptibly  rising  as  you  advance  into  the 
valley  of  Bagnères  ;  the  road  passes  through  or 
very  near  eighteen  villages,  besides  cottages  innu- 
merable, fine  open  groves  of  oak  and  chesnut  of 
great  size,  orchards  without  end,  multitudes  of 
clear  streams  running  in  all  directions  —  small 
meadows,  through  which  the  water  is  conveyed 
so  universally,  and  with  so  much  skill,  as  to  pro- 
duce very  tine  second  crops,  large  tracts  of  Turkey 
wheat,    flax,    corn   and    millet.     Hills   gently   risii.g 

4—2 


52  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

from  a  point  in  the  plain  till  they  join  the  great 
chain  of  mountains  and  the  Pic-du-Midi,  which  is 
something  like  the  large  point  of  Cheviot,  peeping 
up  over  the  rest.  These  are  the  beautiful  varieties 
that  you  are  feasted  with  in  this  journey. 

The  valley  grows  narrower  and  narrower  till 
the  town  of  Bagnères,  crossing  the  whole  plain, 
seems  to  forbid  any  further  passage,  the  mountains 
appearing  almost  to  close  behind  it.  Bagnères  is 
very  well  built,  every  house  being  a  lodging-house, 
and  in  general  much  better  than  any  I  remember 
to  have  seen  at  other  water-drinking  places  ;  they 
are  all  white-washed  and  covered  with  blue  slate, 
the  jambs  of  the  doors  and  window-sills  of  a 
coarse  bluish  marble,  got  just  above  the  town. 
Some  have  marble  pilasters,  in  no  great  taste,  on 
each  side  of  their  doors.  The  streets  are  crooked, 
and  paved  with  small  pebbles.  Water  runs  con- 
tinually in  the  middle  of  every  street,  and  large 
canals,  brought  from  the  Adour  for  the  use  of 
mills,  cross  the  town  in  four  or  five  places. 
There  are  no  considerable  public  buildings.  The 
Coston,  or  public  walk,  is  short,  gloomy  and 
damp,  therefore  little  frequented.  Indeed,  most 
people  choose  to  walk  out  into  the  country,  or 
upon  the  public  roads,  which  are  more  pleasant 
than  the  town. 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  53 

The  country  round  Bagnères,  north  and  south, 
consists  of  a  circular  plain  without  trees,  crossed 
by  the  Adour,  which  is  no  more  than  a  violent 
mountain  torrent.  On  the  east  a  very  pleasant 
ridge  of  collines  confine  the  vale,  and  on  the  west 
very  high,  bare  mountains  come  down  upon  the 
town,  except  that,  just  above  the  houses,  are  some 
very  handsome  large  groves  on  the  slope  of  the 
hills.  All  the  smaller  hills  are  beautiful,  in  great 
cultivation,  and  charmingly  set  off  with  cottages 
stuck  irregularly  on  the  summits  and  hollows, 
with  each  its  clump  of  large  trees  and  its  orchard. 
Numberless  fountains  break  out  of  these  hillocks, 
and  altogether  form  enchanting  views,  contrasted 
with  the  bare  green  tops  of  the  mountains. 

The  mineral  waters  of  Bagnères,  notwithstand- 
ing the  assertions  of  the  physicians,  are,  I  really 
think,  all  of  one  species,  only  varying  in  heat  and 
accidental  mixtures.  The  waters  of  Salut  are 
a  mile  from  the  town,  in  a  nook,  under  a  bare, 
rocky  mountain;  a  most  delightful  road  winding 
up  the  valley  leads  to  them,  and  they  are  the 
most  in  vogue  of  any  of  the  baths.  There  are 
several  in  the  meadows  between  the  town  and  the 
Salut,  which  is  the  weakest  and  coolest  of  all, 
scarce  having  any  warmth,  and  not  the  least  taste. 

There  are  many  baths  in  the  town,  with  dif- 


54  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

ferent  properties  assigned  to  them,  really  existing 
nowhere  but  in  the  idea  or  roguery  of  doctors.  All 
come  from  the  waters  of  La  Reine,  which  issue 
out  of  a  beautiful  grove  half  way  up  the  hill  at 
the  back  of  the  town.  They  are  boiling  hot  to  the 
hand,  but  not  at  all  so  to  the  stomach,  and  I 
believe  them  to  be  far  the  most  likely  to  be  effi- 
cacious, if  there  is  any  virtue  in  these  waters, 
which  I  believe  to  be  small.  I  took  those  of  the 
Salut  regularly  for  a  month,  and  found,  with 
the  help  of  very  early  rising,  a  good  walk  before 
breakfast,  sober  living  and  exercise,  that  they 
afforded  me  great  lightness  and  greater  ease  in 
taking  my  long  walk  up  the  mountains.  The 
baths   are   delicious. 

I  have  not  yet  made  any  very  long  excursions, 
but  intend  in  the  first  moon  of  August  to  go  to 
Bareges  and  the  Mature-du-Roy,  which  will  be  a 
long  ramble  through  the  mountains,  of  which  you 
may  expect  a  very  minute  detail.  Meanwhile  I 
will  give  you  an  abstract  of  what  I  have  remarked 
in  this  neighbourhood,  according  as  I  find  it  in 
my  journal. 

Bigorre,  being  a  frais  d'etat,  is  much  better 
off  than  its  neighbours;  the  inhabitants  more 
numerous,  better  dressed,  and  much  more  at  their 
ease,    scarcely    any    person    being    without    some 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  55 

small  landed  property.  The  malady  amon^  the 
horned  cattle  has  been  kept  out  of  this  country 
by  a  timely  exertion  of  their  powers  in  indemnify- 
ing such  as  killed  their  suspected  cattle. 

The  mountains  hereabouts  afford  vast  plenty 
of  pasturage  for  innumerable  herds  of  cattle  and 
flocks  of  sheep,  that  travel  up  from  the  plains  in 
summer,  and  constitute  the  riches  of  the  province, 
which  has  no  external  commerce  or  manufacture 
at  home.  The  plains  produce  immense  quantities 
of  hay,  maize,  rye,  some  bearded  wheat  and  bar- 
ley, and  very  bad  wine  from  vines  which  are 
trained  up  to  the  cherry  trees  near  Tarbes,  but 
none  near  Bagnères,  except  against  houses.  The 
fruit  here  is  not  succulent  or  high-flavoured. 

The  woods  that  cover  some  of  the  mountains 
are  of  beech,  more  for  fuel  than  for  timber. 
Higher  up  are  large  tracts  of  silver  fir,  but  not 
very  large,  being  all  hacked  and  hewed,  as  wood 
here  belongs  to  the  communautés  of  the  neighbour- 
ing villages.  I  am  told  there  are  many  sorts  of 
firs  and  pines  farther  up.  Oak  does  not  abound  in 
the  mountains,  but  grows  to  a  great  size  on  the 
lower  hills,  where  I  am  surprised  to  see  whole 
woods  of  beech  and  oak,  all  planted  about  the 
thickness  of  a  walking-stick  with  the  head  cut  oif, 
yet  producing  very  noble,  sound  trees,  to  judge  by 


56  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  fine  old  timber  close  by,  which   has   evidently 
been  planted. 

This  is  very  contrary  to  the  received  notions 
of  gardening  in  England.  It  must  be  a  very  windy 
country,  which  in  general  hinders  such  plantations 
firom  thriving  with  us  ;  yet  upon  the  bleak  ridges 
of  their  down-like  hills  I  see  every  day  rows  of 
fine  oak,  beech  and  birch,  growing  tall  and  healthy, 
and  small  single  ones  put  in  to  supply  the  place 
of  such  as  are  felled  for  use,  thriving  very  well 
without  any  prop  or  shelter  but  a  few  briers  to 
keep  off  the  cattle. 

The  finest  beechwood  I  ever  beheld,  which  we 
rode  in  for  hours,  has  all  been  planted  out  of 
nurseries  or  woods.  The  chesnut  trees  are  very 
fine.  It  is  surprising  who  can  egg  on  the  peasants 
to  plant  upon  the  heaths  and  hills,  where  it  seems 
to  be  a  kind  of  public  undertaking.  Large  cherry 
trees  abound  in  the  cultivated  parts.  Great  tracts 
of  mountain  have  been  by  degrees  cleared  of  wood, 
partly  through  neglect  and  partly  by  design,  to 
procure  more  pasture  for  the  cattle.  The  wood 
having  been  so  long  thick  on  the  summits,  has 
preserved  them  from  the  ravages  of  rain  and  tor- 
rents, and  there  is  a  fine  verdure  on  most  of 
them;  but  it  is  likely  that,  now  they  are  bare,  the 
snows  and  storms  will  get  hold,  and  in  time  wash 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  57 

down  all  the  soil,  and  leave  the  rocks  bare  and 
peaked  like  the  Alps,  which  are  infinitely  less 
rounded  and  more  irregular  than  the  Pyrenees. 

Of  the  shrub  kind  I  have  found  great  varie- 
ties of  my  acquaintance  :  some  of  the  sides  of  the 
craggy  mountains  are  clad  with  box.  The  lane 
hedges  afford  holly,  dogwood,  viburnum,  privet, 
gooseberry-leaved  currant,  &c.  Of  the  flower  kind 
I  have  not  discovered  many  that  are  out  of  the 
common  beat. 

Under  the  silver  firs  grow  a  great  quantity  of 
pale  London  pride  and  single  yellow  ranunculuses. 
This  must  suffice  for  the  vegetable  system.  What 
I  have  to  say  of  the  mineral  kingdom  will  be 
very  short,  as  I  hear  of  no  mines  near  the  place; 
the  rocks  are  composed  in  general,  near  Salut, 
of  a  large  stony  slate  containing  much  pyrites  of 
the  cat-silver  or  pale  false  metal,  kino,  such  as  I 
have  at  Hamsterley.  Other  parts  are  marble, 
darkish  blue  and  coarse. 

In  the  vale  of  Campan,  three  leagues  up  the 
river,  is  a  large  quarry  of  very  pretty  green  and 
white,  and  about  the  same  distance  south-east  is 
a  quarry  of  red  and  white  marble.  Near  Campan, 
half  way  up  the  crags,  is  a  cave,  about  one 
hundred  and  four  paces  long,  which  I  went  to  a 
few   days    ago.      It    is    narrow    and   vending,    not 


5$  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

handsome  or  lofty,  and  though  moist,  contains  no 
springs.  They  have  broken  and  carried  off  all  the 
fine  pieces  of  crystal  and  stalactites,  and  there  are 
only  small  pieces  of  either  left,  some  of  which  I 
brought  away  for  specimens. 

Madame  de  Brionne  has  had  the  ridiculous 
vanity  of  having  a  marble  plate  put  up  in  the 
bottom  of  the  grotto,  that  the  world  may  know 
that  she  and  her  company,  among  which  even 
the  lackeys'  names  are  engraven,  penetrated  so 
far  in  1765. 

Limestone  abounds  here,  and  very  good  cement 
is  made  with  it.  As  for  antiquities,  all  I  can  say 
on  that  head  will  go  in  a  very  small  compass. 
The  Romans  knew  of  these  baths,  and  probably 
Bagnères  comes  from  halnearia.  There  are  three 
inscriptions  in  the  town,  one  to  the  Numen 
Augusti,  another  to  Mars,  and  a  third,  **  Nymphis 
pro  salute  sua."  There  may  be  more,  but  I  have 
not  met  with  them,  nor  with  anybody  like  a 
cicerone.  Henry  de  Transtamare,  afterwards  King 
of  Castile,  seized  upon  this  place,  and  Marguerite 
de  Valois  exempted  it  from  all  "  lots  et  ventes,'"  on 
condition  of  a  certain  sum  of  money  received  for 
apprentice  fees  being  appropriated  to  dancing, 
merrymaking  and  bonfires,  firom  St.  John's  to 
St.   Peter's  Days.     This  privilege  is  well  kept   up. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  59 

On  those  days  every  top  of  the  neighbouring  hills 
has  its  fire,  and  all  the  country  girls  assemble  to 
dance  in  the  town  and  neighbouring  greens. 

As  to  the  people  of  the  country,  as  far  as  I 
have  any  occasion  for  experience,  they  are  fair  and 
honest  dealers,  and  not  such  dirty  and  pilfering 
scoundrels  as  the  Bordelois.  No  Protestants  among 
them.  Their  features  harsh,  and  few  pretty  women, 
but  a  sound,  stout  race  of  middling  size.  All  go 
barefoot,  except  when  they  dance,  an  exercise  of 
which  they  acquit  themselves  extremely  well.  The 
paysannes  wear  red  cloth,  short  peaked  veils,  very 
unbecoming  ;  on  holidays,  the  better  sort  have 
them  white,  long  and  transparent  ;  they  are  an 
industrious  set  of  people.  Their  patois  varies  in 
every  village. 

The  only  remnants  of  English  conquest  I  have 
found  out  are,  a  ruined  fortress  without  an  entrance, 
on  a  very  high  hill,  and  the  word  hay,  by  which 
name  they  understand  foin.  But  perhaps  this  may 
come  from  heno,^  which  is  Spanish  for  hay. 

To  say  anything  of  the  way  of  life  at  Bagnères 
would  be  very  unsatisfactory  to  you  ;  let  it  suffice 
to  say  that  the  walks  and  surrounding  country  are 

I  The  Spanish  heno,  Hke  the  Italian  fieno,  and  French 
foin,  is  derived  from  the  Latin  fenum;  the  English  word 
hay  is  from  the  German  Heu,  but  the  root  is  the  same. 


60  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

charming.  No  public  places  but  the  wells  early  in 
the  morning,  and  assemblies  at  private  houses  for 
cards;  very  dull  and  close.  The  Bishop  of  Tarbes, 
who  is  affability  and  politeness  itself,  has  an  open 
house,  where  he  is  always  glad  to  receive  strangers 
to  dine  and  spend  part  of  the  evening. 

There  are  here  a  large  posse  of  Americans  ; 
"vous  savez  ce  qu'en  vaut  l'aune,"  so  need  no 
further  account  of  them. 

We  are  threatened  with  a  troupe  de  comédiens, 
and  more  gaiety  ;  with  how  much  foundation  I 
know  not.  However,  my  time  is  so  well  filled 
with  walking,  riding,  dining,  sleeping,  and  that 
very,  very  essential  part  of  life,  sauntering  away 
my  time,  that  no  part  hangs  heavy  upon  my 
hands,  nor  can  I  manage  to  find  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  it  for  reading,  writing,  &c.  ;  so  pray 
be  grateful  for  that  which  I  here  bestow  upon  you. 

Our  present  plan,  Deo  volente,  is  to  remain 
here,  where  Mrs.  Swinburne  joined  me  on  the 
ist  inst.,  till  about  the  second  week  of  September; 
then  we  intend  going  to  Toulouse,  and  if  Mrs.  S. 
pleases  she  will  spend  the  winter  at  Aix  or  Nice, 
whilst  I  and  Sir  Thomas  turn  off  at  Narbonne  to 
pass  a  few  months  in  Spain. 

As  Sir  Thomas  carries  me,  and  it  is  an  oppor- 
tunity I   never  can  expect  again,  I   believe   I   shall 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  6l 

be   tempted   to   go.     Don't  mention  it  to  anybody 

until  I  have   taken   my   final   resolution   about   the 

project. 

If  such  nonsense  can  be  allowed  a  place  in  a 

corner,  I  desire  you  will  keep  this  letter  till  I  see 

you,  for  fear  my  notes  and  journals  should  be  lost 

in  my  frequent  peregrinations. — Adieu  1 

W.  S. 


August  20th f  1775. 

Dear  Brother, — I  wish  you  may  not  find  this 
a  much  dearer  letter  than  its  contents  are  worth. 
But  I  judge  you  by  my  own  sentiments.  I  am 
always  reconciled  to  the  postage  of  my  friends' 
letters,  provided  they  are  but  full,  no  matter 
whether  of  sense  or  trifles. 

Our  weather  here  is  still  very  unsettled,  rather 
rainy  than  fair.  Mrs.  Swinburne  proposes  pass- 
ing the  winter  at  a  house  in  the  plain  near  Tarbes, 
which  is  a  pleasant  situation,  but  a  dull  town  ; 
but  the  acquaintance  of  the  bishop,  who  resides 
there  altogether  and  is  very  civil  to  us,  and  the 
occupation  her  children  give  her,  make  her  rather 
unfit  for  the  enjoyment  of  a  more  dissipated  winter 
residence.  This  has,  besides,  the  additional  merit 
of  being  extremely  cheap,  very  near  us,  and  con- 
sequently no  expense  or  trouble  in  conveying  bag 


62  LETTERS    FROM     THE 

and  baggage  thither;  and  is,  moreover,  in  the  way 
to  any  other  place  she  may  prefer  to  remove  to. 
For  my  part,  I  shall  go  to  Spain  next  month,  v^^ith 
my  Pylades,  by  the  way  of  Toulouse  and  Barcelona, 
and  return  by  Bayonne. 

How  far  we  shall  push  our  travels,  or  how 
long  we  shall  be  out,  I  cannot  yet  affirm,  as  it 
will  depend  upon  circumstances  ;  but  our  present 
intention  is  to  go  as  far  as  Grenada,  Gibraltar, 
Cadiz,  perhaps  from  thence  to  Lisbon,  and  after- 
wards to  Madrid.  You  may  expect  an  account  of 
my  peregrinations,  but  will  perhaps  wait  some  time 
for  it,  as  I  have  some  thoughts  of  making  up  a 
pamphlet  of  it,  if  it  answers  my  expectations.  I 
also  intend  drawing  everything  worth  notice  on 
the  route. 

Direct  to  me  "  Poste  Restante,  à  Bagnères." 
Mrs.  S.  will  take  care  to  draw  out  the  letters  ;  and 
when  you  write,  write  a  great  deal,  and  pray  re- 
member, I  know  of  nobody's  marriage  or  death, 
or  any  one  occurrence  of  the  country,  nor  am  I 
likely  to  know  anything  about  it  except  from  my 
friends.  Jack  Errington  must  be  at  home  by  this 
time,  as  he  was  lately  at  Bordeaux,  on  his  return 
from  Spain. 

Mrs.  S.  made  a  prodigious  progress  in  Madame 
d'Anglures'  affairs,  having,  before  she  left  Bordeaux, 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  63 

persuaded  M.  la  Burte  to  see  his  daughter,  and 
receive  her  in  his  house,  to  dine  with  her  at  ours, 
and  carry  her  into  the  country  with  him.  He  has 
given  her  money,  but  how  it  will  end  I  cannot  yet 
foresee.  This  is  after  twenty-two  years  of  com- 
plete abandonment  of  his  child  ;  and  this  is  Mrs. 
Swinburne's  doing,  who  is  the  most  warm-hearted 
and  indefatigable  of  friends. 


Malaga,  January  6th,  1776. 

To  Mrs.  S. — I  must  write  you  a  few  lines  from 
here,  because  the  consul's  brother  or  cousin  sets 
out  this  evening  for  Tarbes,  so  I  could  not  resist 
the  temptation  of  writing,  by  him,  to  wish  you  and 
the  dear  children  many  happy  returns  of  the  new 
year  ;  but  the  heat  in  this  place  is  so  insufferable 
and  oppressive  that  I  have  hardly  strength  to  hold 
my  pen.     What  must  it  be  in  the  summer-time  ! 

We  came  here  on  horseback  from  Antequera, 
where  we  left  our  luggage.  We  ascended  the  Sierra 
by  a  most  tremendous  winding  path  over  the  rocks. 
This  pass  is  called  the  Escaruela  ;  there  the  Jesuits 
had  a  large  estate.  The  hedges  are  full  of  beautiful 
flowers,  almond  trees  in  full  blossom,  marigold, 
myrtle,  cystus,  periwinkle,  trumpet  honeysuckle, 
and   oleanders,   in   the   beds   of  the   torrents.     We 


64  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

were  glad  to  sit  in  the  shade  of  a  venta,^  to  eat  our 
cold  dinner,  near  a  ruined  village  called  Almoina, 
with  a  demolished  castle,  in  the  very  heart  of  the 
Sierra. 

We  descended  a  range  of  steep  hills  to  the 
Playa,  and  soon  arrived  at  the  gates  of  Malaga. 
Our  accommodations  are  horrid,  but  the  consul, 
Mr.  Marsh,  is  very  civil.  He  has  a  sister  in  the 
seraglio  of  the  Emperor  of  Morocco.  The  cathedral 
here,  which  was  built  in  the  time  of  Philip  and 
Mary,  has  the  English  arms  over  the  altar.  I  saw 
beautiful  double  yellow  roses  in  a  farmer's  garden 
in  the  Playa.  The  streets  are  narrow,  the  castle 
Moorish. 

We  stayed  a  week  at  Grenada  after  I  wrote  to 
you.  It  took  that  time  for  me  to  make  my  draw- 
ings of  that  most  curious  of  all  palaces — the 
Alhambra,  which  is  situated  on  a  hill  covered 
with  wood,  where  fountains  run  through.  There  is 
a  Moorish  arched  entrance  of  the  castle  with  a 
horseshoe  turn,  mosaic  ornaments,  and  a  key  in 
the  keystone.  There  are  fine  views  from  the  para- 
pets of  the  inner  court,  beautiful  basso-relievos 
added  by  Charles  V.  The  doors  are  adorned  with 
rings  of  bronze,  a  lion  and  eagle's  mouth.  The 
towers  are  lofty,  built  with  cobble  stones,  joined 
I  A  small  roadside  tavern. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  65 

together  in  a  smooth  surface  by  mortar.  We  passed 
under  the  aqueduct,  which  comes  from  the  moun- 
tains and  supplies  the  castle  with  a  fine  stream. 

We  were  assured  that  the  last  Moorish  ambas- 
sador was  as  well  acquainted  with  every  part  of 
this  neighbourhood  as  if  he  had  spent  his  life  in  it. 
There  are  no  remains  of  Morisco  furniture. 

We  went  to  the  play  at  Grenada  —  such  a 
stupid  thing  —  a  friar  and  his  ass  the  principal 
performers. 

As  late  as  twenty  years  ago,  there  were  a  great 
many  Moorish  families  remaining  at  Grenada  ;  but 
they  were  found  out  and  driven  away,  after  being 
pillaged  of  twelve  millions  of  crowns.  They  made 
the  trade  flourish,  which  now  decays  daily.  There 
are  still  Moors  at  Rio  Daro,  with  round  faces,  small 
bright  eyes,  little  noses,  and  underlips  advancing. 
They  are  humble  and  smooth-tongued,  but  it  is 
hard  to  force  money  out  of  them. 

Fruit  and  meat  keep  very  well  at  the  Alhambra, 
for  the  cellars  are  very  cool.  The  air  is  extremely 
wholesome  in  the  city,  where  in  most  houses  a 
small  stream  of  water  runs  through  the  rooms  in 
which  the  family  sleeps.  We  made  acquaintance 
with  an  old  parasitical  officer  of  family,  Don  Diego 
Borroques.  The  Alhambra  was  opened  on  the  ist 
of   January   to   the    people,   in   commemoration   of 

VOL.   I  5 


66  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

the  surrender  ;  everybody  paid  some  acknowledg- 
ment to  the  governor,  one  Buccarelli,  a  drunkard, 
who  lives  like  a  toad  in  a  hole,  and  has  a  little 
window  over  the  door,  where  he  sits  and  counts 
the  people,  calculating  what  the  day  will  be  worth 
to  him. 

I  wrote  my  adieus  on  the  wall  behind  the  door 
in  one  of  the  subterraneous  rooms,^  near  the  Moorish 
burial-place,  in  the  two  following  concetti,  and  then 
took  my  leave  of  this  most  curious  and  well-watered 

edifice  : — 

Hail  prophet,  most  indulgent  to  mankind  I 
If  thus  on  earth  thy  paradise  we  find, 
What  must  on  high  thy  promised  raptures  prove, 
Where  black-eyed  houris  breathe  eternal  love  I 
Thy  faith  and  doctrine  sure  were  quite  divine, 
Had  so  much  water  but  a  little  wine.^ 
His  regum  heu  !  nimis  infelicium  deliciis  die  pro  capta 

urbe  triumphali  mœstum,  vale  discernunt. — ^T.  G.  et  H.  S. 

Angh. 

1  These  subterraneous  chambers  are  similar  to  the  tah- 
khanehs,  or  underground  apartments  of  Persia  and  Afghan- 
istan, which  form  a  cool  retreat  during  the  extreme  heat 
of  day. 

2  Mr.  Swinburne's  concetto  calls  to  mind  the  following 
old  French  drinking  song: — 

"  Cet  univers  ah  qu'il  est  beau  I 
Mais  pourquoi  dans  ce  bel  ouvrage, 
Le  Seigneur  a-t'il  mis  tant  d'eau? 
Le  vin  me  plairoit  d'avantage. 
S'il  n'a  pas  fait  un  élément 
De  cette  liqueur  rubiconde, 
Le  Seigneur  s'est  montré  prudent — 
Nous  eussions  bu  le  monde." 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  67 

I  walked  up  to  see  the  Generaliffe,  the  Moorish 
monarch's  spring  palace.  The  great  hall  is  well 
stuccoed  ;  it  is  well  watered,  and  has  some  fine 
myrtle  hedges.  We  were  shown  a  large  cypress, 
where  the  Abencerrage  sat  with  the  Queen.  The 
great  drive  of  the  town  is  on  the  Alameda,  by  the 
side  of  the  Xenil  ;  it  would  be  a  beautiful  scene 
were  not  the  river  too  shallow.  The  people  still 
use  the  Moorish  cry  when  they  bathe  or  hear  joyful 
tidings;  for  those  who  knew  trades  were  suffered 
to  remain  when  all  the  rest  were  expelled  the 
kingdom. 

We  paid  a  visit  near  Grenada  to  the  late 
minister,  General  Wall.  At  eighty-two  he  is  very 
active,  walks  his  five  or  six  hours  a  day,  my  pace, 
which  is  a  pretty  brisk  one,  with  his  guns  in  his 
hand,  talking  all  the  way.  He  has  a  fund  of  the 
most  entertaining  anecdotes  of  Courts  and  courtiers. 
His  hunting  seat  belongs  to  the  King,  who  has  given 
him  up  the  revenue  of  the  territory.  It  is  a  most 
delicious  habitation  for  winter.  In  the  summer  it 
is  not  tenable,  for  the  vapours  are  obnoxious,  and 
the  heat  insupportable.  He  then  goes  again  to 
Court  for  two  months,  and  spends  the  autumn  at 
his  house  in  the  suburbs  of  Grenada.  He  was 
extremely  civil  to  us,  and  parted  ft-om  us  with 
great     apparent    regret,    saying  :    "  Such    birds    of 

5—2 


68  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

passage   seldom   alight  in   these   parts.*'      And,  in- 
deed, he  sees  very  little  company  of  any  kind. 


Cadiz f  January  14th ,  1776. 

Dear  Brother, — First,  many  happy  new  years 
to  you  all,  and,  secondly,  thanks  for  your  letter  of 
the  29th  of  October,  which  I  found  waiting  for  me 
here.  You  see  I  have  surpassed  even  your  most 
sanguine  expectations,  and  have  penetrated  to  the 
ne  plus  ultra  of  Hercules. 

I  have  been  more  minute  and  inquisitive  about 
every  particular  on  the  route,  than  a  Fellow  of  the 
Antiquarian  Society  in  a  heap  of  rubbish,  and  in- 
tend most  bravely  to  go  into  print  hereafter.  The 
publication  of  a  pompous  book  on  Spain,  by  Mr. 
Twiss,  damped  my  ardour  when  I  heard  of  it  ;  but 
upon  the  perusal  of  the  work  my  colour  came 
again,  and  the  resolution  has  become  doubly  strong 
in  me.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to  write  a  more 
shallow,  pedantic,  catch-penny  book  than  that,  and 
I  think  a  plain,  unaffected  tour  may  go  down  after 
his  bombast  and  trifles.  I  have  besides  drawn 
every  antiquity,  city  and  remarkable  view,  in  my 
way,  with  great  attention  and  accuracy,  which 
Mr.  Twiss's  prints  are  generally  deficient  in.  His 
Madonna   is,   no   doubt,   a   fine   print,  but    has   as 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  69 

little  to  do  there  as  a  copy  of  any  other  picture 
in  Spain. 

I  have  employed  several  days  in  taking  the 
views  inside  and  outside  of  the  Moorish  palace  at 
Grenada — the  ornaments,  capitals,  dimensions,  mo- 
saics, &c.,  of  its  apartments — by  which  means  I 
have  formed  a  collection  that  will  give  you  a  just 
idea  of  their  architecture,  &c.  Though  I  ought 
not  to  anticipate,  I  cannot  resist  the  temptation 
of  running  slightly  over  the  journey  with  you,  and 
faintly  tracing  the  outlines  of  what  I  have  seen  in 
the  course  of  this  long  peregrination  ;  remember 
it  is  for  your  own  private  amusement. 

On  the  24th  of  October  we  entered  Spain  at 
Bellegarde,  and  arrived  in  four  days  at  Barcelona. 
You  know  the  route  ;  therefore,  as  the  roads  are 
exactly  as  you  left  them,  I  shall  pass  over  that 
much  of  Catalonia  in  silence.  The  hospitality  of 
our  countrymen,  the  politeness  of  the  intendant, 
who  was  there  in  your  time,  and,  by-the-bye,  has 
a  most  charming  daughter,  combined  with  the 
general  alacrity  of  the  principal  Spaniards  to  pro- 
cure us  a  sight  of  everything  curious  about  the 
place,  made  us  pass  the  time  very  agreeably  till 
the  19th  of  November,  when  we  took  our  departure 
for  Valencia  and  the  coast.  Before  we  quitted 
Barcelona  we    rode   to    Montserrat   and    stayed    a 


70  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

day  with  the  abbot.  Here  I  made  my  first  cam- 
paign in  the  Spanish  language,  having  no  other 
to  convey  our  ideas  by. 

I  am  sorry  to  find,  by  what  I  can  learn  from 
St.  Germain,  that  you  neglected  seeing  this  moun- 
tain on  your  way  from  Madrid.  It  is  undoubtedly 
one  of  the  greatest  curiosities  in  the  world.  Its 
pyramidal  rocks,  the  hermitages  dispersed  among 
its  precipices,  more  like  the  nests  of  eagles  than 
the  dwellings  of  men,  and  the  situation  of  the 
convent  in  a  cleft  of  the  mountain,  are  most  singu- 
lar and  romantic.  In  this  point,  as  in  all  others, 
you  shall  see  my  commonplace  book,  where  I 
have  entered  into  the  most  minute  details,  and 
on  a  rainy  evening  you  will  be  able  to  bear  the 
reading  of  them,  as  they  will  make  the  matter 
plainer  to  you,  with  the  help  of  the  drawings. 
The  roads  from  Barcelona  to  the  confines  of  Va- 
lencia are  very  rocky  and  disagreeable,  the  accom- 
modation abominable,  but  the  paysage  most  charming 
— one  never  loses  sight  of  the  sea,  sometimes  viewing 
it  from  a  mountain,  at  others  almost  on  a  level  with 
it,  catching  a  light  through  the  olive  trees.  We 
passed  under  an  elegant  Roman  arch,  and  came 
near  the  tomb  of  the  two  Scipios,  but  were  dis- 
appointed in  our  search  for  antiquities  at  Tarragona. 

Tortosa   and   the    Ebro    afforded   us   no    great 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  7I 

entertainment,  but  we  were  highly  delighted  with 
our  travels  along  the  coast  of  Valencia.  Nature 
and  art  have  contributed  to  make  a  terrestrial 
paradise  of  it  to  the  eye,  for  there  is  so  general 
a  want  of  taste  in  its  productions,  animal  and 
vegetable,  that  any  English  stomach  would  be 
pursed  up  for  want  of  matter  to  digest.  Murviedro 
(the  ancient  Saguntum)  has  still  a  theatre,  pretty 
entire,  to  show  as  its  credentials. 

From  the  Moorish  castle  that  occupies  the 
summit  of  the  hill  you  command  a  matchless 
view  of  the  plain  of  Valencia,  perhaps  twenty 
leagues  along  the  coast,  that  city  rising  in  a  forest 
of  olives,  orange,  palm,  mulberry,  and  locust  trees, 
that  cover  the  whole  level  before  you  ;  the  range 
of  broken  mountains  on  the  right,  and  the  bound- 
less Mediterranean  on  the  left. 

Shut  your  eyes  and  draw  the  picture  in  those 
of  your  mind.  The  sun  was  so  hot  that  we  could 
not  stay  long  to  enjoy  the  voluptuous  feast.  Per- 
haps you  never  saw  any  locust  trees  or  algarobas, 
so  it  may  be  necessary  to  tell  you  that  it  is  a 
large  bushy  tree,  an  evergreen.^  The  leaves  are 
of  a  bright  deep  beech-green,  set  opposite  each 
other  on  the  branches.  It  produces  a  large  pod, 
very  sweet  and  palatable,  and  is  the  food  of  the 
I  Robinia. 


72  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

mules  in  this  kingdom  of  Valencia,  where  the 
country  is  covered  with  them.  Here  I  ate  for 
the  first  time  the  helota,  or  acorns  of  the  ever- 
green oak,  and  do  not  at  all  pity  the  gentlemen 
of  the  golden  age,  for  they  are  excellent  eating. 

Valencia  is  in  so  dead  a  flat,  and  so  surrounded 
with  trees,  that  one  cannot  get  a  full  sight  of  it 
from  any  place;  but  it  is  a  populous,  large,  dirty 
city,  full  of  churches  like  mesquitas,  unpaved  and 
unpleasant.  From  thence  we  proceeded  to  Alicante, 
a  white  town  under  a  large  rock,  that  was  partly 
blown  up  in  Queen  Anne's  wars.  Our  countrymen 
received  us,  as  everywhere  else,  with  open  arms 
and  the  greatest  cordiality.  Eletre,  a  large  town 
not  far  from  thence,  is  unique,  being  situated  in 
the  middle  of  an  extensive  wood,  or  rather  forest, 
of  palm  trees,  now  loaded  with  their  orange-coloured 
fruit;  the  branches  are  an  object  of  commerce  for 
Italy  in  Lent.  The  plain  of  Murcia  deserves  its 
reputation  for  richness  and  beauty;  the  mountains 
that  run  along  each  side  of  it  prevent  the  eye 
from  being  disgusted  with  the  sameness  common 
to  a  view  over  so  large  a  flat,  but  the  city  is 
nothing.  Carthagena  is  a  hole,  but  a  most  ad- 
mirable port.  The  Spaniards  seemed  jealous  of 
us,  but  the  governor  permitted  us  very  politely 
to   row  all  round  it,  and  to  see  everything  in  the 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  73 

arsenal  ;  this  is  very  ill-provided,  and  shipbuilding 
goes  on  slowly  indeed.  Fourteen  hundred  slaves, 
that  work  twelve  or  sixteen  hours  out  of  the  four- 
and-twenty  at  a  pump,  to  keep  the  docks  clear  of 
water,  is  a  curious  but  an  unpleasant  spectacle  for 
a  man  of  the  least  humanity.  Not  half  are  Moors. 
The  labour  is  so  severe,  the  place  so  unwholesome, 
that  they  frequently  drop  down  dead  at  the  pump. 

From  Carthagena  to  Grenada,  except  in  some 
hollows  near  rivers,  the  country  is  a  perfect  naked 
desert.  On  every  pointed  mountain  along  this 
coast  are  towers  of  alarm,  or  ruined  Moorish  for- 
tresses, the  only  objects  that  induce  the  jaded 
traveller  to  stretch  his  head  out  of  the  chaise 
window.  The  inconveniences  that  we  experienced 
in  this  long  route,  notwithstanding  every  possible 
precaution  we  could  take  to  be  well  provided,  are 
sufficient  to  deter  all  future  travellers,  if  any  such 
should  ask  my  opinion;  but  all  difficulties  vanish, 
all  pains  are  forgotten,  when  once  we  arrive  at 
Grenada — a  heaven  on  earth. 

The  city  is  built  partly  on  a  high  hill  at  the 
foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  so  called  from  being 
almost  always  covered  with  snow;  partly  on  the 
slopes  of  this  and  two  other  eminences;  but  the 
greatest  extent  of  building  runs  along  the  plain 
at   the   bottom  ;    two   small  rivers,   the   Xenil   and 


74  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Daro,  join  and  transverse  its  streets,  where  thou- 
sands of  streams  run  down  every  alley,  and 
through  all  its  squares.  The  greatest  quantity  of 
water,  and  the  best  in  quality,  comes  down  from 
the  Alhambra,  an  immense  Moorish  castle,  built 
on  the  middle  hill  that  overlooks  Grenada,  and 
this  supply  is  brought  in  canals  from  the  still 
higher  hills  behind,  where  the  art  and  labour  of 
the  Moors  are  yet  visible  in  spite  of  all  the  idle- 
ness and  neglect  of  the  Spaniards  in  keeping  up 
and  repairing  their  aqueducts  and  reservoirs. 

Charles  V.  pulled  down  a  great  part  of  the 
Moorish  palace  within  the  walls  of  the  fortress, 
and  built  a  very  beautiful  square  palace  with  a 
Doric  circus  in  it,  in  an  admirable,  chaste  style  of 
architecture.  Like  many  others  of  his  projects,  it 
was  never  finished,  and  now  remains  exposed  to 
all  the  inclemency  of  the  seasons.  But  they  are 
so  mild  at  Grenada,  that,  if  the  mischievous  hand 
of  man  does  not  accelerate  its  destruction,  it 
may  still  remain  for  ages.  Adjoining  it  are  ths 
palaces,  destined  by  the  Moorish  kings  for  their 
baths,  their  concerts,  and  their  women.  The 
richness  of  the  stucco  work,  the  profusion  of 
water,  marbles,  paintings,  and  gildings,  are  truly 
wonderful,  and  utterly  unlike  anything  I  ever  met 
with     before.      There     is    a    light,    fairy    kind    of 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  75 

appearance  in  the  pillars  and  ornaments,  not  to 
be  expressed,  and  the  climate  is  so  temperate 
that  no  moss  or  damp  appears  anywhere  ;  the 
views  from  its  windows  are  divine — over  the  city, 
and  down  the  vega  or  plain,  which  is  at  least  four 
leagues  or  more,  before  it  is  closed  in  by  the 
mountains.  But  I  could  run  on  for  hours  on  so 
favourite  a  topic — it  is  time  to  stop,  that  I  may 
leave  something  for  you  to  read  hereafter. 

We  stayed  eight  days,  during  which  we  have 
had  the  most  delightful  weather  possible  ever 
since  we  left  France  ;  except  five  days,  whilst  at 
Barcelona,  there  has  not  been  a  drop  of  rain,  but 
rather  too  much  sun.  The  Christmas  holidays 
were  delicious.  Such  crowds  of  pretty  women 
(for  they  are  very  pretty  and  clear  -  skinned  at 
Grenada),  sitting  out  on  all  the  hills  and  public 
walks  in  the  evening,  and  such  serenity  in  the 
air,  that  it  was  always  with  the  greatest  reluctance 
we  retired  to  our  habitation. 

We  spent  two  days  at  the  bottom  of  the  vega 
with  General  Wall  at  his  retirement,  the  Soto  di 
Roma.  He  has  fitted  up  a  small  royal  shooting 
box  very  neatly,  kills  all  his  own  meat,  and 
employs  himself  in  draining,  and  making  beautiful 
drives  through  about  four  thousand  acres  of  wood, 
which  covers  all  that  part  of  the  plain.     He  is  a 


76  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

charming,  agreeable  man  of  eighty-two  ;  free  and 
communicative,  active  and  merry,  vi^alks  five  or 
six  hours  every  day,  and  seems  to  enjoy  life  as 
well  as  other  people  can  expect  to  do  at  fifty. 
From  his  house  we  came  to  Antequera,  where  we 
left  our  carriages  and  rode  over  diabolical  moun- 
tains to  Malaga,  where  we  stayed  two  days.  Its 
church  is  very  grand  in  the  inside,  the  outside 
crowded.  I  am  told  it  is  almost  as  large  as 
St.  Paul's,  but  it  did  not  appear  of  that  size  to 
me.  From  Antequera  we  had  five  days'  deep 
road  and  much  rain  through  the  rich  but  naked 
plains  of  Andalusia,  and  yesterday  came  hither 
from  Port  St.  Mary  in  a  bark. 

The  bay  is  superb,  and  gloriously  crowded 
with  vessels.  It  now  rains  very  hard;  I  hope  it 
does  not  mean  to  last.  As  you  will  in  all  pro- 
bability see  Dr.  Percy,  tell  him  that  I  have  been 
reading  the  romance  of  Don  Alonzo  de  Aguilar, 
which  he  has  translated  in  his  reliques  of  ancient 
poetry,  and,  being  in  the  country,  am  able  to  in- 
form him  that  he  has  been  led  into  a  slight  error 
in  the  beginning  by  the  words  rio  verde,  which  he 
took  to  be  only  a  poetical  descriptive  epithet,  and 
accordingly  has  changed  it  to  gentle  river.  Now 
Rio  Verde  (green  river)  is  as  much  the  name  of 
that  river,  where  the  skirmish  happened,  as  Black- 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  77 

wall  is  the  name  of  the  place  to  eat  whitebait 
in  ;  and  it  would  be  a  little  odd  to  make  a  copy 
of  verses  upon  that,  and  change  Blackwall  to  gentle 
wall.  If  you  tell  him  this,  mind,  I  do  not  mean 
it  as  a  criticism,  only  as  a  piece  of  information. 

Rio  Verde  is  a  small  torrent  that  falls  into  the 
Mediterranean,  near  Ronda,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Sierra  Bermeja,  between  Malaga  and  Gibraltar. 


TO   MR.   B. 

Cadiz,  January  2^th,  1776. 

Dear  Sir, — You  should  have  heard  from  me 
long  before  I  got  so  far  into  this  country,  but  for 
the  following  reasons:  That  I  wished  to  send  you 
an  account  of  our  journey  properly  digested,  and 
free  from  all  those  errors  that  one  naturally  falls 
into  at  the  first  arrival  in  a  strange  place,  before 
observation  and  experience  have  taught  to  dis- 
tinguish solid  and  true  information  from  vulgar  and 
frivolous  intelligence. 

As  my  coming  into  Spain  was  quite  an  im- 
promptu, I  had  not  leisure  to  acquaint  you  with 
my  motives,  and  left  that  office  to  Patty,  which  I 
conclude  she  has  long  ago  acquitted  herself  of. 

I  hope  I  shall  have  no  reason  to  repent  having 
made  this  excursion,  as  I  left  her  very  well  and 
commodiously  settled  at   Tarbes,  where,  according 


yS  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

to  the  letter  she  has  written  to  me,  she  and  the 
children  enjoy  perfect  health,  and  she  passes  her 
time  very  agreeably.  I  have  drawn  accurate  views 
of  all  the  cities  and  antiquities,  &c.,  on  my  route, 
and  as  no  such  things  have  yet  appeared,  I  thought 
engravings  of  these  might  be  acceptable  to  the 
public. 

The  publication  of  Twiss's  book,  I  apprehended, 
would  render  my  plan  abortive,  but,  on  seeing  it, 
I  found  his  views  few  in  number,  and  so  wretchedly 
designed  and  executed  as  to  convey  hardly  any 
idea  to  me  of  the  places  he  has  meant  to  repre- 
sent. I  have  taken  notes  of  everything  in  the 
journey,  and  intend  digesting  them,  to  serve  as  an 
explanation  to  the  drawing.  I  have  enclosed  the 
first  sheet  of  it,  and  shall  continue  so  to  do  till 
you  let  me  know  that  the  work  is  not  worth  the 
postage.  I  beg  you  will  spend  a  leisure  hour  in 
perusing,  altering  and  correcting  it. 

My  intention  is  to  avoid  all  attempts  at  humour 
and  witticisms,  all  trivial  and  puerile  remarks,  and 
accounts  which  can  only  interest  myself,  such  as 
dinners  and  names  of  people  that  have  been  civil 
to  us,  trifling  accidents,  &c.,  which  constitute  the 
principal  part  of  Twiss's  book.  The  rest  is  made 
up  of  quotations,  blunders  and  nonsense.  I  never 
read  so  silly  a  book,  Baretti's  not  excepted. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  79 

What  I  should  wish  to  compass  is  to  give  a 
faithful,  clear,  gentlemanlike  account  of  everything 
remarkable  in  this  kingdom;  and  I  have  been  for- 
tunate enough  to  procure  a  great  deal  of  authentic 
information  from  the  principal  Spaniards,  to  whom 
we  brought  letters  of  recommendation  in  every 
tour,  and  who  are  much  fonder  of  talking  and 
acquainting  one  with  everything  about  their  country 
than  the  French  themselves.  Besides,  were  Twiss's 
as  excellent  a  book  as  it  is  a  bad  one,  his  tour  and 
ours  interfere  but  seldom,  as  he  has  not  visited  the 
northern  parts  of  Spain. 

I  must  now  give  you  a  short  detail  of  our 
journey,  first  premising  that  we  were  everywhere 
received  with  the  greatest  kindness  by  the  British 
families  settled  in  the  seaports,  who  loaded  us  with 
civilities  during  our  stay  among  them,  and  with 
wine  and  provisions  at  our  departure,  a  very  neces- 
sary help  in  this  part  of  the  world.  After  remaining 
in  Barcelona  long  enough  to  make  acquaintances, 
and  branch  out  our  letters  of  recommendation  to 
all  parts  of  Spain,  we  proceeded  to  Valencia  ;  then 
through  Alicante,  Murcia,  Carthagena,  and  Grenada 
to  Cadiz,  having  had  only  two  bad  days,  as  to  the 
weather,  in  our  long  journey  from  Barcelona  to 
Andalusia. 

About  three  days'  journey  from  Cadiz,  we  got 


8o  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

into  the  rainy  country,  and  it  has  not  ceased  an 
hour  since,  which  is  near  a  fortnight.  It  had  rained 
here  for  a  fortnight  before,  and,  if  we  beheve  the 
weatherwise,  will  continue  a  month  longer.  The 
roads  will  not  be  passable  for  some  time,  so  that 
we  are  here  kept  prisoners,  which  is  a  great  loss  of 
time  ;  but  our  quarters  are  good,  for  this  town  is 
reckoned  the  most  agreeable  in  Spain.  There  is  an 
excellent  French  comedy,  a  very  indifferent  Italian 
opera,  and  a  Spanish  theatre,  open  every  night. 

The  factory  is  very  numerous,^  and  glad  to 
make  travellers  welcome,  so  that  we  are  feasted 
and  made  much  of,  which  keeps  us  in  very  good 
humour. 

As  soon  as  the  weather  permits,  we  propose 
going  for  a  few  days  to  Gibraltar,  and  return  here 
and  make  the  best  of  our  way,  by  Seville,  Cordova, 
and  the  Sierra  Morena,  to  Madrid,  where  our  stay 
will  be  very  short.  Our  journey  out  of  Spain  will 
be  by  Segovia,  Valladolid,  Burgos  and  Bayonne. 

We  have  enjoyed  the  most  delightful  weather 
possible  on  the  road.  As  we  travelled  almost 
always  south,  the  sun  was  rather  too  powerful,  but 
always  so  high  as  not  to  come  into  the  windows 
and   beam   in  our   eyes.     The   pace   we   went   was 

I  The  company  of  merchants.  Each  foreign  nation 
had,  and  still  has,  its  factory. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  8 1 

very  slow,  for  the  roads  are  wofully  bad,  but  the 
fineness  of  the  weather  made  amends  for  every- 
thing. I  generally  walked  half  the  day's  journey, 
or  occasionally  rode  an  ambling  mule,  which  we 
purchased  in  Catalonia,  the  easiest  monture  in  the 
world.  You  may  sleep,  or  carry  a  glass  of  wine 
steady,  though  they  go  at  such  a  rate  as  will  keep 
a  horse  in  a  very  long  trot  or  canter.  I  have  seen 
two  that  have  gone  from  Rens,  near  Tarragona, 
to  Barcelona,  between  sun  and  sun. 

We  made  about  two  days'  and  a  half  journey 
of  it.  As  we  carry  beds  and  provision  with  us, 
we  have  been  able  to  put  up  with  the  wretched 
hovels  called  inns.  Without  those  precautions,  one 
must  be  a  muleteer  to  get  a  wink  of  sleep,  and  often 
run  the  risk  of  lying  down  on  the  floor  supperless. 

If  these  letters  appear  any  way  amusing  to 
you  I  shall  continue  them  till  I  have  completed 
this  tour;  if  not,  I  shall  drop  the  scheme,  and 
keep  my  remarks  to  myself.  The  drawings,  I 
think,  stand  a  fair  chance,  as  I  am  sure  of  their 
exactness  and  value. 


TO    MR.    B. 

Gibraltar,  Feb.  2gth,   1776. 
After  long  and  weary  expectation,  the  weather 
at   last  cleared  up,  and  we  were  enabled  to  leave 

VOL.    I  6 


82  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Cadiz  last  Saturday  afternoon  on  horseback.  We 
slept  at  Chiclana,  a  pleasant  town,  where  most  of 
the  merchants  resort,  in  spring  and  autumn,  to 
spend  a  few  weeks  at  their  villas,  which  compose 
the  greatest  part  of  the  town.  The  next  day  we 
were  worse  off,  being  obliged  to  pass  the  night  at 
a  small  thatched  house  on  the  wastes.  My  bed 
was  straw  from  the  stable;  the  rest  slept  in  the 
smoky  crib  on  cork  stools  round  the  fire. 

On  Monday  we  reached  San  Roque,  where 
the  Spanish  governor  of  the  lines  resides,  and 
procured  proper  passes,  with  which  we  got  into 
this  extraordinary  place  next  morning  early.  The 
whole  country  from  Chiclana  to  San  Roque  is 
either  forest  or  heath,  with  few  signs  of  inhabi- 
tants, and  the  worst  roads  in  the  world,  even  for 
mules. 

General  Boyd,  and  other  persons  to  whom  we 
brought  letters,  received  us  very  politely.  For  a 
few  days  the  bustle  and  military  appearance  of 
the  place  may  be  entertaining  enough,  but  the 
style  of  life  cannot  please  much  longer.  It  was 
no  small  satisfaction  to  be  once  more  on  British 
ground,  to  hear  our  own  language  spoken,  and  to 
see  so  many  jolly  roast-beef  faces,  after  having  so 
long  been  used  to  swarthy,  peaked  countenances 
and  small-limbed  people. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  83 

The  soldiery  here  look  like  giants.  The  Hano- 
verians are  tall,  but  not  so  well  made  below. 
They  agree  very  well  with  the  English,  being  a 
quick,  good-natured  people,  keeping  much  together, 
and  disHked  by  none  but  the  wine-houses,  who 
have  lost  very  good  friends  in  the  three  regiments 
lately  sent  away. 

While  we  were  at  Cadiz  there  came  in  three 
American  ships,  consigned  to  a  friend  of  ours. 
The  cargoes  and  ships  were  sold.  They  had 
come  from  different  parts  of  the  coast,  and  all 
agree  that  the  distress  for  every  kind  of  neces- 
sary and  convenience  was  very  great  among  the 
provincials  when  they  came  away,  and  great 
murmurings  among  the  sober  part  of  the  people. 
All   the   captains   are   North   American   born. 

Our  stay  here  will  be  short,  and  we  intend 
to  run  over  to  Tangiers  for  a  few  days;  for  the 
Barbary  coast  looks  so  near  that  it  is  quite 
tempting,  and  the  good  oranges  that  come  daily 
from  thence  are  a  further  inducement  to  see  the 
fine   country   which   produces   them. 

This  place  is  a  tower  of  Babel  —  such  a  con- 
fusion of  tongues  and  dresses  1  English,  French, 
Spanish,  Hebrew,  Italian,  Arabic — you  may  hear 
all   in    half  the   length    of  a   street. 

We   have   seven  Dutch  men-of-war  here,  with 

6—2 


84  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Admiral  Hartsing;  and  one  English  frigate,  the 
Experiment,  Sir  Thomas  Rich.  His  lady  is  with 
him. — ^Adieu.  

Cadiz,  March  20th,  1776. 

Dear  Brother, — I  think  my  last  to  you  was 
from  this  place,  about  the  middle  of  January; 
since  which  our  peregrinations  have  not  extended 
very  far.  Six  weeks*  incessant  rain  detained  us 
here  —  half  January  and  almost  all  February. 
The  carnival  was  not  brilliant,  as  no  public 
assemblies  were  allowed  by  the  old  fool  of  a 
governor.  The  theatres  were  the  great  resource. 
The  French  one,  monté  sur  le  ton  le  plus  mag- 
nifique, with  an  excellent  actress,  La  Vertueil,  a^- 
the  head,  and  every  one  much  better  than  I  ever 
saw  together   on   a  provincial   stage   in   France. 

The  Italian  opera  is  pretty  well  as  to  dan- 
cers, but  infamous  as  to  singers.  The  Spanish 
play  is  not  so  good  as  I  have  seen  it  in  other 
places;  but  always  full,  as  it  begins  directly 
after  dinner;  and  a  hon  ton  person  may  very 
easily  make  his  appearance  at  the  three  houses 
in  the  course  of  the   evening. 

We  had  some  private  dances,  but  cards  and 
conversation  were  the  principal  amusements.  The 
number     of    English,     Irish,     French,    and    other 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  85 

foreign  hotels,  is  very  considerable.  Most  of  the 
proprietors  are  women.  There  is  a  great  deal  of 
gambling;  and,  take  it  all  in  all,  Cadiz  is  not 
a  very  agreeable  place,  even  in  fine  weather  ; 
for  it  is  so  confined  by  the  sea  on  every  side 
that  one  can  hardly  get  a  walk;  and  then  such 
mauvaises  odeurs  in  every  street,  that  a  foreign 
nose  takes  some  time  to  get  accustomed  to  them. 
It  is,  moreover,  full  of  street  robbers,  who  ren- 
der it  dangerous  after  the  day  is  down  ;  but  I 
confess  I  have  not  met  with  anything  of  the 
kind.  The  place  might  be  kept  clear  of  all  with 
a  very  moderate  police  ;  for  it  is  a  small  town, 
shut   up   on   every   side,   with   a   strong  garrison. 

All  the  streets  are  so  constructed  as  to  end 
in  some  square,  or  in  the  walk  that  goes  round 
the  city.  The  houses  are  very  lofty,  with  flat 
roofs  and  little  kinds  of  towers,  or  spires,  all  along 
the  parapets,  to  serve  as  supports  to  awnings  in 
summer.  The  second  story  is  the  Stage  d'honneur. 
Every  house  has  a  vestibule,  which  is  filth  itself. 

The  bay  surpasses  all  ideas  I  had  of  marine 
beauty.  Its  numberless  creeks,  islands,  forts, 
windings,  the  great  quantity  of  ships  of  war,  and 
others,  constantly  going  in  or  out,  or  riding  in 
the  centre,  altogether  make  an  enchanting  view. 

On  the  26th  ult.  we  went  by  land  (not  at  all 


86  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  plan,  for  ten  hours'  sailing  would  have  carried 
us  into  Gibraltar)  to  visit  that  celebrated  rock. 
Our  journey  thither,  on  muleback,  was  excessively 
tedious,  being  two  days'  and  a  half  tiresome  riding, 
through  very  bad  roads,  over  a  desert  country, 
mountainous  and  boggy.  Some  parts  were  pretty 
enough,  such  as  fine  woods  full  of  uncommon 
plants,  and  large  plains  in  pasture,  well  stocked 
with  cattle  ;  but  the  accommodations  were  bad 
even  for  Spain,  and  that  is  being  superlatively  so. 

The  great  novelty  we  found  in  the  situation 
of  Gibraltar,  the  hurry  and  pomp  of  military  music 
and  parade,  and  the  civility  and  hospitality  of  its 
officers,  made  us  pass  the  first  week  with  great 
pleasure.  But  when  we  had  heard  all  the  marches, 
and  all  the  signals,  &c.,  had  dined  round  and  seen 
everything  to  be  seen,  it  began  to  tire  us. 

We  made  three  attempts  to  get  to  Barbary; 
but  the  wind  blew  so  regularly  contrary  that  we 
were  forced  to  give  up  all  thoughts  of  it — very 
much  against  the  grain,  for  we  had  set  our  hearts 
upon  it. 

A  Dutch  fleet  and  one  of  our  frigates  enlivened 
the  place,  which  has  suffered  much  in  its  society 
by  the  departure  of  three  regiments,  and  the  arrival 
of  the  Hanoverians,  who  are  a  quick,  sober,  hand- 
some set  of  men,  speak  neither  English  nor  French, 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  8/ 

have  no  women  with  them,  and  live  a  very  retired, 
parsimonious  life.  They  do  their  duty  well,  are 
always  exercising,  but  are  not  by  any  means  so 
alert  as  our  troops.  They  keep  entirely  together. 
Their  dress  is  as  near  that  of  our  soldiers  as  can 
be  ;  but  as  they  wear  stiff  black  gaiters,  with  high 
tops,  instead  of  the  half-boots  of  the  English,  they 
march  with  bent  knees,  and  look  exceedingly 
pinched  up. 

We  returned  by  the  same  road  to  this  place 
last  Sunday,  intend  staying  a  week  longer  here, 
and  then  proceed  to  Madrid,  through  Seville  and 
Cordova. 

We  passed  a  day  at  St.  Mary's  with  General 
O'Reilly,  who  was  extremely  polite  to  us,  and, 
according  to  custom,  very  chatty.  He  is  a  fine, 
likely  fellow,  ard  we  have  promised  to  spend  a 
few  days  with  him  when  we  leave  Cadiz.  I  am 
curious  to  be  well  acquainted  with  a  man  who 
makes  so  much  noise  in  the  world.  The  Spaniards 
are  certainly  preparing  for  a  second  attack  upon 
Algiers,  unless  they  should  choose  to  turn  off  and 
try  their  strength  against  Gibraltar,  which  I  appre- 
hend we  need  not  be  very  uneasy  about. 

Let  me  know  a  little  how  things  go  on  with 
you,  where  you  have  spent  your  severe  winter, 
and  when  you  intend  to  bring  your  boys  over  to 


88  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Liège  ;  what  new  plans  are  carried  into  execution 
at  Capheaton.  All  this,  and  a  thousand  such 
minutiae,  become  of  great  importance  when  they 
have  travelled  some  hundred  of  leagues. 


Madrid,  April  2gth,  1776. 

Dear  Brother,  —  Upon  my  word,  I  admire 
you  for  your  assurance  in  saying  you  had  written 
me  a  long  letter  —  four  short  sides  in  your  large 
hand,  full  of  paragraphs  and  puncta  ad  lineam.  You 
meant  you  thought  it  long  enough  for  you  to  write, 
but  I  assure  you  it  is  full  short  when  I  come  to 
read  it. 

Yours  to  Brigadier  Vaughan  goes  off  to-morrow 
to  Coin,  near  Malaga,  Costa  di  Grenada,  which  I 
believe  will  be  his  direction  for  some  time,  if  you 
choose  to  write  any  more  to  him.  We  arrived 
here  this  morning,  having  left  Cadiz  on  the  3rd. 
We  stayed  three  days  with  General  Count  O'Reilly 
at  Port  St.  Mary,  half  a  day  at  Xérès,  three  at 
Seville,  four  at  Cordova,  and  one  at  Toledo.  The 
remainder  were  employed  in  drawling  through  the 
rich  plains  and  woody  vales  of  Andalusia,  and  the 
bleak,  bare,  boundless  plains  of  La  Mancha. 

You  expect,  no  doubt,  some  light  to  be  thrown 
on  the  character  of  O'Reilly,  a  man  who  for  some 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  89 

time  past  has  made  a  noise  in  the  world,  and 
astonished  by  the  rapidity  of  his  rise  and  the 
greatness  of  the  favour  he  is  in  at  Court.  It 
must  appear  presumptuous  in  anybody  to  attempt 
to  draw  the  character  of  another  with  whom  he 
has  lived  only  three  days;  but  I  sincerely  think 
myself  tolerably  well  qualified  to  sketch  it,  and, 
perhaps,  hit  it  off  with  some  degree  of  resemblance. 
He  is  so  eager  in  all  his  conversation,  and  treated 
us  with  so  much  friendship  and  openness,  that  I 
am  sure  he  acted  and  spoke  vdthout  any  intention 
to  hide  his  real  opinions  from  us.  He  speaks 
many  languages,  but  expresses  himself  with  most 
fluency  in  Spanish.  His  ideas  are  strong,  and  his 
conception  of  arguments  and  things  above  measure 
quick  and  forcible;  his  memory  furnishing  him 
with  a  knowledge  of  what  has  passed  in  different 
countries,  that  gives  strength  to  his  arguments  on 
military  and  political  subjects.  His  plans  are 
upon  a  grand  scale,  and  in  discourse  he  is  fond 
of  expressing  his  admiration  of  Scipio  and  those 
great  heroes  of  antiquity  who  were  above  the 
opinions  ot  the  world,  and  who  retired  contented 
with  the  applause  of  their  own  conscience,  and  of 
the  few  virtuous  men  able  to  judge  impartially  of 
their  actions. 

In    the    inspectorship    he    is    allowed    to    have 


go  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

great  merit,  and  to  despatch  his  business  with 
celerity  and  regularity.  He  has  seen,  heard  and 
dived  into  all  the  arcana  of  war  and  politics,  as 
well  as  what  the  French  call  économie  publique, 
and  talks  so  much  of  honour  and  probity  that  his 
hearers  become  alarmed  lest  he  should  be  palming 
the  appearance  upon  them  for  the  reality. 

I  believe  his  ambition  to  be  ardent  and  un- 
bounded. He  expatiated  freely  upon  his  Algiers 
expedition,  said  he  saw  all  was  lost  and  over  as 
soon  as  he  landed,  as  they  had  disobeyed  his 
orders  and  deviated  from  his  plans  ;  at  that 
moment  he  assured  us  he  was  twenty  times  in 
the  mind  de  risquer  le  tout  pour  le  tout;  but,  by 
what  he  thinks  the  greatest  effort  of  courage,  he 
dared  to  retire  baffled,  and  stand  all  that  malice 
and  envy  would  vomit  out  against  him  on  his 
return. 

He  expressed  great  regret  at  losing  us,  pro- 
bably parceque  fai  de  bonnes  oreilles,  et  que  je  sais 
écouter. 

Seville  is  a  most  heavenly  place  in  winter  and 
in  spring.  We  passed  our  evenings  whilst  there 
among  the  orange  groves  in  the  King's  garden, 
w^atered  by  jets  d'eau,  in  the  style  of  those  you 
have  seen  in  Italy,  squirting  up  along  the  walks. 
The  cathedral  did  not  answer  my  expectations,  as 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  91 

it  is  encumbered  with  choirs  and  chapels  ;  nor  is 
the  Gothic  so  light  and  airy  as  York  Minster.  The 
Moorish  tower  adjoining  is  very  handsome;  it  is 
called  La  Giralda. 

The  Alcazar,  or  King's  palace,  has  the  arms 
of  the  two  kingdoms  represented  in  the  Saracenic 
ornaments  of  the  great  entrance,  which  is  quite 
Oriental.  Philip  V.,  who  died  there,  added  a  new 
part  to  this  palace  ;  the  gardens  are  like  fairy-land, 
with  galleries,  waterworks,  myrtle  and  yellow  jas- 
mine hedges,  and  orange  groves.  Water  runs 
through  every  part,  and  ends  in  a  pond  full  of 
tench,  where  Philip  used  to  fish  by  torchlight. 

The  orange  trees  about  Seville  are  quite 
timber,  loaded  with  fi-uit.  We  rode  under  them 
as  in  a  forest,  and  crossed  the  plain  to  St.  Ilde- 
fonso,  a  convent  of  Hieronymites,  near  which  is 
Old  Seville,  or  Italica,  built  by  Scipio,  and  the 
birthplace  of  Trajan.  Seven  little  hills  form  the 
situation  of  this  ancient  colony,  of  which  very  little 
remains  except  the  rubbish  and  form  of  its  amphi- 
theatre. 

There  is  a  snuff  manufactory  at  Seville,  the 
only  one  in  Spain.  They  make  use  of  Brazil  and 
Havannah  tobacco.  There  are  nearly  five  hundred 
people  in  one  room  making  cigars. 

Our  acquaintance  at  Seville  consisted  only  of 


92  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

the  Marchioness  de  Malespina  and  the  Duke  of 
Medina  Cœli,  who  is  a  sort  of  king  in  effig}'.  He 
parades  in  great  state  along  the  Alameda  with 
three  coaches,  each  drawn  by  six  mules,  and 
lackeys  innumerable,  in  yellow  liveries,  every  one 
stopping  to  bow  to  him  as  he  passes. 

My  man,  St.  Germain,  was  clapped  into  prison 
for  carrying  my  pistols  through  the  streets  to  the 
saddler's  to  have  the  holsters  fitted  to  them.  A 
strict  police  this  I 

We  journeyed  on  to  Cordova,  having  such 
bad  accommodations  on  the  road  as  to  be  obliged 
to  pass  the  night  on  a  table.  Cordova  is  an  ugly- 
built  city,  with  a  fine  country  behind  it.  Its 
famous  mosque,  or  mesquita,  is  one  of  the  most 
ancient  edifices  in  Europe  since  the  fall  of  the 
Roman  empire,  having  been  erected  in  the  eighth 
century.  Although  much  spoilt,  the  chapels,  and 
a  vast  choir  in  the  Gothic  taste,  built  in  Ferdi- 
nand V.'s  time,  retain,  in  the  greater  part  of  their 
extent,  their  ancient  form  and  appearance.  It  is 
quite  a  wilderness  of  pillars  and  low-arched  aisles, 
and  is  the  most  extraordinary  sight  you  can 
imagine,  especially  as  I  first  saw  it  by  candle- 
light. It  is  the  most  ancient  Moorish  place  of 
worship  in  Spain,  but  has  none  of  that  fairy 
character  of  ornament  that   sets  off  the  Alhambra 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  93 

of  Grenada  ;  indeed,  its  columns  are  all  antique 
Roman,  and  many  of  its  capitals  Corinthian.  The 
Moors  capped  such  as  had  lost  their  capitals  with 
rude,  massive  imitations  of  what  they  admired  in 
their  ruins  of  ancient  Cordova. 

If  my  calculation  come  near  the  truth,  and 
I  believe  it  does,  this  square  building  stood  origi- 
nally upon  nearly  one  thousand  columns,  all  jasper 
and  marble.  But  I  pass  over  all  this  slightly, 
because  hereafter  you  will  be  sufficiently  tired  of 
columns  and  arches  when  you  come  to  read  my 
minute  account  of  these  places. 

Don  Pedro  the  Cruel  built  a  part  of  the  Alcazar 
at  Seville,  probably  with  Moorish  architects,  so 
like  to  the  style  of  their  buildings  that  all  the 
authors  who  have  travelled  this  way  have  con- 
founded them  together  and  called  it  the  Moorish 
part  ;  but  a  large  Gothic  inscription  in  the  prin- 
cipal front  denotes  the  name  of  the  builder  and 
the  year  of  its  erection.  Besides,  the  arms  of 
Castile  and  Leon  are  interwoven  in  the  ornaments  ; 
and  the  Moors  seldom  put  up  the  representation 
of  any  animal  or  living  creature.^  I  own,  had 
I  not  seen  all  those  marks,  the  beauty  of  its  court 
would  have  led  me  to  call  it  Mussulman. 

I  The  representation  of  any  living  animal  or  human  figure 
is  forbidden  by  the  Koran. 


94  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

The  women  are  very  handsome  at  Cordova. 
Don  Bart.  Cesar  took  us  in  his  coach  to  the 
bishop's  country  -  house  near  the  river.  He  (the 
bishop)  has  220,000  ducats  a  year,  but  cannot 
bequeath  it  by  will,  and  the  King  is  his  heir. 

The  Potro  at  Cordova,  mentioned  in  "  Don 
Quixote,"  is  a  fountain  in  the  street  that  leads  to 
Madrid. 

The  most  beautiful  country  I  ever  passed 
through,  and  most  romantic,  was  after  we  left 
Cordova  ;  hanging  woods,  dells  and  purling  streams 
— the  Guadalquivir  flowing  to  the  right,  one  of 
the  most  charming  drives  in   Spain. 

There  is  more  gilding  in  the  church  of  Toledo 
than  in  all  the  French  palaces  put  together,  which 
is  not  saying  a  little.  They  have  even  gilt  the 
lines  of  separation  between  the  stones  on  the  pillars. 

I  shall  leave  all  these  Christian  and  Mahome- 
dan  ecclesiastical  topics  to  give  you  an  account  of 
the  colonies  of  Carlotta,  Louisiana  and  Carolina,^ 
which,  as  an  improver  and  an  Agricola,  will  interest 
you  fully  as  much.  The  two  first  are  a  great 
way  from,   and  much  smaller  than,  the  last  of  the 

I  La  Carolina  is  situated  to  the  north-east  of  Baylen,  on 
the  high  road  from  Cordova,  by  Andujar  and  Manzanares,  to 
Madrid.  It  is  the  chief  town  of  the  district  called  Poblaciones 
de  la  Sierra  Morena,  and  is  built  on  one  of  the  spurs  of  those 
mountains. 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  95 

three.  As  Carolina  is  the  chief,  a  description  of 
it  will  give  every  insight  you  can  desire  into  the 
others. 

The  eastern  extremity  of  the  Sierra  Morena, 
though  a  broken,  hilly  country,  cannot  be  called 
a  ridge  of  mountains  when  compared  to  the  Alps 
and  Pyrenees,  but  it  is  very  high  land.  Eight 
years  ago  it  was  covered  with  forests,  the  re- 
ceptacle of  thieves  and  wolves  ;  and  before  the 
colony  arrived  from  Alsace  and  the  neighbouring 
provinces  of  Germany,  a  hundred  Catalans  were 
despatched  to  clear  it  of  the  former  of  these  vermin  ; 
the  latter,  cultivation  was  to  eradicate.  Of  the 
first  settlers,  the  greater  part  died  from  the  im- 
moderate use  of  liquor,  the  unwholesome  herbs 
they  culled  in  the  mountains,  and  the  heat  of  the 
climate.  They,  as  well  as  all  subsequent  inhabi- 
tants, are  bound  to  remain  there  for  ten  years, 
and  care  is  taken  to  keep  them  to  their  engage- 
ment. The  King  fed  them  for  three  years,  and 
gave  to  each  family  about  thirty  acres  of  land  to 
clear,  the  implements  of  husbandry,  ten  cows,  ten 
goats,  a  house  and  one  year's  seed-corn.  The  un- 
married had  nothing.  At  the  end  of  ten  years 
the  land  is  to  become  theirs  in  fee-simple,  paying 
a  small  quit-rent  to  the  King. 

There   is   a  great  variety  of  all  sorts  of  land. 


96  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

but  in  general  they  have  made  it  all  arable.  You 
may  imagine,  notwithstanding  the  King's  good 
intentions,  that  many  abuses  crept  into  the  manage- 
ment. The  first  director  was  a  sad  rascal,  and 
used  to  remove  the  poor  Germans  firom  land  they 
had  tilled  to  others  in  waste,  and  for  a  valuable 
consideration  put  a  Spanish  family  in  their  place. 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  sketch  out  a  view  of 
its  present  appearance.  Carolina  is  built  on  an 
elevated  plain,  not  quite  level,  where  eight  years 
ago  there  was  not  a  single  house.  From  hence 
you  command  a  most  extensive  prospect  over 
almost  all  Andalusia  and  Grenada.  The  streets 
are  broad  and  straight;  the  houses  neat,  though 
low  and  small  ;  walks  are  planted,  and  two  or 
three  squares  built  for  public  uses,  as  well  as  a 
governor's  house  and  a  church  ;  a  large  platform 
before  the  town  is  laid  out  in  gardens.  The  roads 
are  drawn  in  right  lines  all  over  the  new  coun- 
try. The  town  is  mostly  inhabited  by  Spaniards 
and  Catalan  manufacturers  of  cloth.  The  foreign- 
ers are  settled  at  pretty  equal  distances  over 
every  part  of  the  colony,  in  small  houses  pro- 
portioned to  the  size  of  their  allotments;  but  in 
general  they  are  run  up  in  a  slovenly  manner. 
They  have  left  the  evergreen  oaks  standing  in  all 
the    places    where    they    were    of   any    size  ;    this, 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  97 

added   to    the   prodigious   extent   of   waving    green 
corn,  affords  an  enchanting  prospect. 

The  new  colony  extends  about  three  leagues 
breadthways  and  lengthways,  but  there  are  many 
straggling  plantations  in  the  nooks  of  the  hills  at 
a  great  distance  from  the  rest.  The  great  fault  is 
a  want  of  a  proper  quantity  of  water.  The  butter 
they  make  here  is  as  fine  as  any  I  ever  ate  at 
home. 

There  cannot  be  a  sight  more  pleasing  to 
humanity  than  this  new  creation  of  industry  and 
population  ;  and  we  must  not  give  way  to  the 
gloomy  thought  that  the  mismanagement  and  in- 
constancy of  government,  or  the  knavery  of  inferior 
men  in  office,  will  sooner  or  later  injure,  if  not 
totally  destroy,  this  rising  colony.  The  number 
of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Carolina  department, 
I  am  told,  amounts  to  eight  thousand  ;  but  I  could 
not  learn  how  far  that  district  extended,  as  there 
are  several  new  villages  erecting  not  far  from  it, 
such  as  Carboneros  and  Agua-Romana,  Vistaalegre 
and  Navas  de  Tolosa. 

The  latter  is  famous  for  a  victory  over  the 
Moors.  It  is  a  strange,  mountainous  place  for 
armies  to  engage  in.  We  had  an  adventure  near 
it.  Having  sent  our  carriage  on,  we  had  walked 
through  a  woody  dell  by  the  side  of  a  rivulet  and 


VOL.    I 


98  LETTERS    FROM     THE 

found  ourselves  among  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentle- 
men dancing  and  eating  sweetmeats,  who  politely 
pressed  us  to  join  their  party  and  partake  of  an 
entertainment  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  we 
were  obliged  to  refuse.  A  capuchin  seemed  the 
Godelureau  of  the  company,  and  was  flirting  wûth 
the  prettiest  of  the  ladies.  The  latter  wore  hand- 
kerchiefs and  palatines.  We  had  bad  roads  and 
an  ugly  country  on  entering  Madrid  ;  the  corn- 
fields came  up  to  the  very  houses. — Adieu. 


TO   MR.    BAKER. 

Madrid,  June  1st,  1776. 

Dear  Sir, — A  few  days  after  my  arrival  here, 
which  was  on  the  27th  of  April,  we  set  oif  for  Aran- 
juez,  where  the  Court  is,  through  a  hilly,  straight 
road  and  bare  hills.  The  vale  of  the  Tagus  is  fine, 
and  the  avenues  noble.  We  visited  Lord  Grantham 
on  our  arrival,  and  attended  a  most  execrable  Italian 
opera.  Next  day  we  visited  the  Marquis  de  Grim- 
aldi,  who  is  the  prime  minister. 

There  are  beautiful  gardens  in  the  island,  where 
we  met  the  Princess  of  Asturias  walking.^  If  she 
encounters  any  presented  person  in  her  perambula- 

I  Maria  Louisa,  afterwards  celebrated  as  the  wife  of 
Charles  IV. 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  99 

tiens,  he  must  necessarily  attend  her;  but  we  were 
not  yet  of  the  privileged  number. 

The  Prince  was  sailing  in  his  golden  galley 
on  the  Tagus.  The  King^  goes  out  shooting  every 
day,  and  sometimes  twice  a  day.  He  seldom  speaks 
to  young  men,  and  likes  old  people  best,  especially 
monks.  We  were  a  day  or  two  afterwards  pre- 
sented to  him,  to  the  Prince  and  Princess  of 
Asturias  and  Don  Louis,  then  to  the  Infantas 
Donna  Maria  Josepha,  Don  Gabriel,  and  Don 
Antonio  ;  and  we  dined  out  almost  every  day,  at 
the  Duke  de  Losada's,  at  the  French  ambassador's 
(the  Marquis  d'Ossuna),  at  the  Duke  d'Arco's,  at 
Marco  Zeno*s  (the  Venetian  ambassador),  and  most 
frequently  at  Grimaldi's. 

The  Spanish  grandees  do  not  like  to  mix  with 
other  company.  They  tutoyent  each  other,  and  a 
grandee  can  only  marry  a  grandee's  daughter. 

The  ladies  here  wear  no  rouge,  and  have  low 
heels.  The  life  led  by  the  young  Spanish  ladies 
of  rank  is  very  strange.  In  the  evening  they  meet 
at  the  house  of  some  relation,  but  never  join  in 
conversation,  from  whence  they  hasten  home  to 
dress  their  own  suppers  and  chat  with  their  maids. 
In  the  morning  they  loiter  and  pray,  dine  on  their 

1  Charles  III. 

7—2 


100  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

pucherOy'^  and  the  time  passes  till  at  last  they  attach 
themselves  to  a  cortejo.^  The  married  ladies  whom 
I  met  seemed  clever,  but  ill-educated,  pettish,  and 
violent. 

There  is  much  talk  here  of  the  amours  of  the 
Count  de  Mora  with  the  Duchess  of  Huescar,  who 
has  married  his  father  Fuentes,  and  broken  the 
son's  heart. 

We  attended  a  bull  feast,  which  is  a  shocking 
spectacle.  An  Indian  of  Buenos  Ayres  hampered 
and  fastened  the  animal  with  a  rope  to  a  post  ; 
then  got  on  him,  cut  the  rope,  sat  upon  him,  and 
killed  another  bull. 

On  Good  Friday  the  King  absolves  criminals 
by  laying  his  hand  on  the  sentences  of  those  whom 
he  chooses  to  pardon. 

Don  Louis  is  so  proud  and  ambitious,  that 
the  inquisitor- general  informed  the  King  it  was 
dangerous  to  take  him  out  shooting.  Five  hundred 
thousand  pounds  sterling  are  spent  on  this  place. 

There    are    twelve  thousand  head   of   deer   in 

1  A  puchero  is  literally  a  glazed  pipkin,  in  which  the 
soup  and  bouilli  is  cooked.  This  soup  forms  the  basis  of 
the  olla.  It  is  the  standing  dish  of  all  classes  in  Spain,  and 
thence  the  name  of  the  vessel  is  used  figuratively  for  the 
contents.  The  Spaniards  say:  "Venga  usted  a  comer  el 
puchero,"  as  the  French  say:   "Venez  manger  la  soupe." 

2  The  cortejo  holds  the  same  place  as  the  Italian  cavalicrc 
servante» 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  lOl 

the  woods  of  Aranjuez.  The  King  has  one  hun- 
dred and  fifteen  sets  of  mules,  and  ten  thousand 
persons  follow  the  Court  when  it  changes  palaces. 

We  went  to  Villa  Mayor  to  see  the  royal  stud 
of  asses,  monstrous  beasts  with  large  heads  and 
legs,  fourteen  hands  high.  On  this  occasion  we 
met  the  Princess,  with  a  party,  riding  on  some  of 
these  animals  magnificently  caparisoned. 

Don  Gabriel  is  a  great  mechanic  and  painter. 
There  are  paintings  of  his  done  with  tufts  of  wool 
in  the  King's  apartment.  Don  Antonio  amuses 
himself  in  the  gardens  with  filling  and  drawing 
an  earth-cart. 

Philip  II.  pulled  up  all  the  vines  on  these 
hills,  and  destroyed  the  villages,  in  order  not  to 
be  overlooked.  Charles  V.  (Emperor  of  Germany) 
was  the  first  monarch  who  resided  here. 

The  servants  here  are  never  discharged.  The 
Duke  of  Infantado  gives  upwards  of  ten  thousand 
pounds  sterling  in  wages  and  pensions. 

On  our  return  from  Aranjuez,  where  we  re- 
mained about  three  weeks,  I  went  to  see  the 
palace  of  Buen  Retiro,  where  are  a  fine  portrait 
of  Isabella  of  Castile,  statues  of  Charles  V.,  Philip 
IV.  and  IL,  aud  Mary  of  Hungary.  There  is  also 
a  representation  of  an  auto  da  fe.  The  new  palace 
is   richly  decorated   with   marble   busts,   and   some 


102  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

pieces  of  Titian.  We  have  received  our  passports, 
and  are  on  the  eve  of  departure.  I  will  conclude 
this  letter  on  the  road. 


St.  Jean-de-Luz,  June  iSfh,  1776. 

Having  now  leisure  to  finish  my  letter,  I  will 
begin  by  our  drive  from  Madrid,  where  we  met 
a  set  of  galley  slaves,  which  reminded  me  of 
Don  Quixote,  and  bevies  of  girls  dancing  round 
poles,  holding  ribands  in  their  hands.  We  passed 
through  beautiful  woods,  and  had  a  grand  view  of 
the  Escurial.  On  arriving  there,  we  sent  in  a 
letter  from  the  Marquis  Grimaldi  to  the  prior, 
who  appointed  eight  o'clock  next  morning  for  our 
seeing  the  convent. 

I  rose  betimes  to  take  a  view  of  the  Escurial, 
and  at  eight  we  were  admitted.  The  staircase  is 
grand.  There  is  a  magnificent  organ  in  the 
church,  and  a  lofty  cupola.  We  descended  into 
the  sepulchre  of  the  royal  family,  where  some 
lines  came  into  my  head,  which  I  shall  send  you 

herewith. 

There    are    fine    botanical    paintings    m    the 

library,    and   a   gold    book.      But    I   will    give    no 

more    description,    as    you    will    have    it    au   long. 

On   leaving    the   Escurial,   we   travelled   along   the 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I03 

foot  of  the  mountains,  through  parkish  grounds 
full  of  deer  and  oak  trees.  Our  muleteer  amused 
us  with  singing  romances.  We  had  a  view  of  the 
palace  of  Rio  Frio,  Segovia,  and  the  immense 
plains  of  Old  Castile. 

When  we  arrived  at  St.  Ildephonso,  we  waited 
on  the  intendant  with  Grimaldi's  order,  and  were 
taken  by  him  to  the  glass  manufactory  and  bottle- 
houses.  The  glasses  are  cut  with  aquafortis.  They 
make  coloured  glass  there. 

Mr.  Dowling,  the  engineer,  took  us  to  see  the 
gardens.  The  waterworks  are  quite  incomparable, 
and  infinitely  superior  to  those  of  Versailles,  both 
as  regards  height  and  clearness  of  water.  The 
fountain  of  the  frogs  and  cascade  are  noble  spouts. 

The  architecture  of  the  palace  is  crowded  and 
ugly.  There  is  a  vast  collection  of  pictures.  A 
St.  Anne,  by  Murillo,  teaching  the  Virgin  to  read, 
struck  me  most,  as  the  girl  is  the  very  picture  of 
my  little  Patty.  There  are  also  many  antique 
busts  and  statues. 

The  King  has  already  shot  several  persons  in 
his  shooting  parties,  from  his  badness  of  sight, 
which  does  not  diminish  his  passion  for  the 
amusement.  He  pays  annually  thirty  thousand 
francs  sterling  for  damage  done  to  the  corn  about 
Segovia. 


104  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

We  rode  to  the  last-named  city  through  an 
open  corn  country,  so  laid  out  for  the  convenience 
of  the  King's  shooting.  The  aqueduct,  a  Roman 
work,  begins  at  some  distance  from  the  city.  The 
streets  are  straggling.  The  cathedral  is  a  light 
but  solid  Gothic  edifice.  The  alcazar,  or  palace, 
contains  the  mint;  the  view  from  it  of  the  river 
and  valley  is  superb.  The  ceilings  have  the  por- 
traits of  all  the  sovereigns  of  Spain  from  Pelasgus 
to  Isabella. 

We  passed  through  a  vineyard  country,  and 
saw  numberless  larkspurs  in  the  waste,  which  are 
called,  in  Spanish,  espuelas  de  cahallero  (knights' 
spurs).  At  an  inn  we  had  a  specimen  of  what 
Cervantes  tells  us  served  for  the  squire's  beard  ; 
a  cow's  tail,  which  the  hostess  hung  at  her  door, 
into  which  she  stuck  her  comb.  We  regretted 
our  Catalonian  muleteers,  for  those  of  Madrid  are 
very  dull  and  slow. 

On  arriving  at  Valladolid  we  were  joined  by 
Mr.  Geddes,  the  principal  of  the  Scotch  college. 
It  is  a  vast  city,  seemingly  run  up  in  a  hurry 
with  bad  materials.  The  streets  have  porticos  on 
each  side.  Even  the  palace  is  old  and  ruinous. 
The  river  is  considerable,  and  the  walks  very 
pretty. 

Before  we  came  to  Villa  Rodrigo  we  crossed 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I05 

the  Puiserga,  on  a  bridge  of  twenty-two  arches. 
The  women  there  wear  hoods,  the  men  montero 
caps  faced  with  red  and  blue. 

The  position  of  Burgos,  on  a  hill  and  its  slope, 
is  very  picturesque.  Its  cathedral  is  a  noble  Gothic 
building  with  statues  on  every  part,  even  the  pin- 
nacles of  the  steeple.  The  gates  of  the  city  are 
adorned  with  those  of  the  famous  judges  of  Castile, 
by  Diego  Rodriguez. 

We  then  travelled  down  a  very  handsome  vale, 
bounded  on  the  right  hand  by  low  woody  hills, 
behind  which  appeared  high  blue  snowy  mountains. 
We  met  several  Aragonian  carts,  that  were  laden 
with  chains  and  spears  for  bull  feasts,  from  Bilbao. 

At  Miranda  we  were  ferried  across  the  Ebro, 
for  the  bridge  was  swept  away  last  year.  The 
women  seemed  a  sturdy  race,  working  out  in  the 
fields,  wearing  lambskin  caps,  which  they  make 
themselves  for  their  wedding. 

As  soon  as  we  entered  Biscay,  there  seemed  to 
be  an  air  of  wealth  and  liberty.  It  is  a  beautiful 
country,  admirably  cultivated.  At  Vittoria,  the 
capital,  we  should  have  been  delayed  had  it  not 
been  for  our  passports. 

The  women  of  Vittoria  are  very  pretty.  The 
streets  are  dark,  and  are  built  on  hilly  ground, 
with  steps  of  communication. 


I06  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

Our  journey  continued  through  a  charming 
country  ;  fine  corn  plains,  and  every  cottage 
having  its  garden.  Here  the  females  wear  hand- 
kerchiefs and  plaited  hair  for  their  headdress  ; 
the  men  woollen  cloths  or  towels  wrapped  round 
their  legs  for  stockings.  Some  women  tie  their 
hair  in  knots  à  la  Ramillies.  We  met  a  grand 
wedding,  so  I  could  judge  of  the  different  fashions. 

At  Tolosa  there  appeared  to  be  a  numerous 
population.  We  saw  two  women  riding  in  panniers 
balanced  on  the  same  horse. ^ 

We  had  now  arrived  in  sight  of  Fontarabia, 
Andayes,  and  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  We  passed  the 
Bidassoa  in  a  boat  ;  the  coaches  forded  it.  We 
then  left  Spain,  and  entered  France,  where  we 
went  through  a  strict  examination  of  our  baggage. 

In  consequence  of  the  dreadful  state  of  the 
roads,  we  had  the  misfortune  to  have  our  axle- 
tree  broken,  which  detains  us  here,  and  gives  me 
time  to  complete  my  letter. — Adieu. 

FRAGMENT    OF    AN     ELEGY    WRITTEN     IN     THE 
ROYAL    VAULT    OF    THE    ESCURIAL. 

Through  gilded  halls,  that  daze  our  ravished  eyes 
With  Raphael's  magic  and  with  Titian's  glow, 
Through  sounding  choirs  where  wreaths  of  incense  rise, 

I  A  remnant  of  the  custom  still  in  common  use  through- 
out the  East,  where  the  women  are  usually  transported  in 
kejawehs,  camel  panniers. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I07 

The  dark  procession  solemn  moves,  and  slow. 

Before  it  yawns  the  monarch's  last  abode — 

Few  are  the  steps  the  pageant  has  to  tread, 

Ere  hasty  priests  consign  their  royal  load 

To  dust,  and  silence  on  its  marble  bed. 

The  pomp  retires — swift  flies  the  courtly  crowd, 

With  venal  pace,  to  hail  the  rising  morn; 

And  soon  oblivion's  soporific  cloud 

Will  cling  oppressive  round  the  laurelled  urn — 

Save  when  some  veteran,  with  an  honest  tear, 

The  sacred  ashes  of  his  chief  bedews, — 

Save  when  ambition,  checked  in  her  career. 

The  fatal  change  with  bitter  anguish  rues. 

Let  us,  my  friend,  a  while  prolong  our  stay, 

And  take  a  lesson  of  th'  impartial  bier. 

These  vaults  with  philosophic  eye  survey, 

And  judge  their  tenants,  without  hope  or  fear, 

Whatl   even  here  must  gold  and  marble  glare, 

Must  architecture  lend  her  art  sublime  ? 

Barely  to  second  vanity's  fond  prayer. 

That  dying  pants  to  live  beyond  her  time  I 

Shut  out  that  light  !   the  mansion  of  the  dead 

A  salutary  horror  should  diffuse; 

No  flow'ret  gay  should  round  the  chaptrels  spread, 

But  grave  the  forms  and  solemn  be  the  hues. 

In  urns  of  porphyry,  in  rows  of  gold. 

See  where  the  mighty  lords  of  Spain  are  laid  1 

In  two  short  lines  their  history  is  told; 

Upon  the  peasant's  stone  as  much  is  said — 

They  lived,  they  died — high  up  and  next  to-day 

Reposes  Charles  ;  ^  who  late  had  learnt  to  rest, — 

Charles,  who  so  long  had  made  mankind  his  prey, 

Then  sick,  not  satiate,  left  the  bloody  feast. 

Ximenes^  cleared  the  youthful  monarch's  way 

Of  every  thorn  which  anarchy  had  nursed, 

And  happy  Charles  saw  prostrate  realms  obey 

Where  that  stem  prelate's  memory  was  cursed. 

1  Charles,  fifth  Emperor. 

2  Cardinal  Ximenes,  regent  of  Spain. 


I08  LETTERS    FROM     THE 

What  boots  the  hope  that  wamied  Padilla's^  breast? 

What  boots  the  courage  of  his  manly  spouse? 

Of  what  avail  is  liberty's  behest, 

That  bids  Toledo  from  her  torpor  rouse  ? 

Dull  falls  her  lance,  defenceless  is  her  shield, 

And  blunt  her  sword  at  Villalar  is  found. 

The  bird  of  Jove  in  triumph  skims  the  field, 

And  bows  her  neck  for  ever  to  the  ground. 

Thus  vapours  twinkling  in  the  morning  shade, 

Hang  o'er  the  fens,  and  dance  with  mimic  glare; 

The  sun  bursts  out  in  fiery  pomp  arrayed, 

And  each  vain  meteor  is  dissolved  in  air. 

A  new-found  world'^  by  rapid  conquest  won, 

At  Charles's  feet  pours  forth  its  precious  hoard. 

From  temples  watched  by  virgins  of  the  sun. 

And  bloody  shrines  where  Montezume  adored. 

On  royal  prey  th'  imperial  eagle  falls, 

By  Bourbon^  lured  to  that  luxuriant  mead 

Where  rapid  Tesin  winds  round  Pavia's  walls, 

And  Bruno's  sons  ten  thousand  heifers  feed. 

E'en  now  the  Gauls  with  flattering  accent  tell 

Their  rueful  story  of  that  day  of  blood,^ 

When  round  their  prince  a  line  of  heroes  fell, 

And  GaUic  corses  choked  the  Lombard  flood. 

See  gallant  Francis,  faint  with  many  a  wound, 

At  bay  no  longer  keeps  the  pressing  throng — 

Bereft  of  friends,  begirt  with  foes  around. 

He  sinks  and  yields,  in  honour  only  strong.s 

Be  noble,  Charles,  and  soothe  the  pangs  of  grief, 

To  soften  thraldom  every  succour  lend  ; 

The  hour  may  come  when  some  more  favoured  chief 

Beneath  his  lance  may  make  thy  valour  bend. 

1  Juan  de  Padilla  headed  the  insurrection  at  Toledo 
against  Charles's  German  ministers. 

2  Conquest  of  Peru  and  Mexico. 

3  Constable  de  Bourbon. 

4  Battle  of  Pa  via  in  1525. 

5  Francis  I.,  King  of  France.     ("Tout  est  perdu  fors 
l'honneur.") 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  log 

That  hour  is  come  ;   and  Fortune,  fond  of  youth, 

From  Caesar's  temples  takes  the  withered  wreath — 

Algiers  and  Metz  enforce  the  sacred  truth — 

"  Nought  stamps  man  happy  but  the  seal  of  Death." 

New  foes  with  ancient  enemies  combine  ; 

His  veteran  heroes  sleep  among  the  dead, 

And  spent  in  embryo  is  Potosi's  mine  ; 

Age  and  disease  have  cramped  his  active  nerves; 

No  more  he  darts  like  lightning  cross  the  world; 

His  hopes  and  fears  in  vast  confusion  hurl'd. 

New  to  misfortunes,  and  untaught  by  woes, 

Charles  flies  despairing  to  the  monkish  cell, 

But  flies  in  vain,  for  hither  also  goes 

The  restless  spirit  death  alone  can  quell. 

Here  it  is  quelled  ; — ^in  vain  the  march  shall  beat, 

And  martial  sounds  shall  rattle  round  the  dome; 

Victorious  shouts,  or  shrieks  of  dire  defeat, 

Alike  are  lost,  and  cannot  pierce  the  tomb. 

From  loathsome  caves  the  bloated  serpent  sends 

Infectious  blasts  to  taint  the  vernal  air; 

Its  blighted  head  each  sickening  floweret  bends, 

The  leaf  is  shrivelled,  and  the  lawn  is  bare. 

So  Philip  issues  forth  from  his  murky  hall. 

Tyrannic  mandates  traced  with  bloody  hand; 

Murder  stalks  forth  at  Superstition's  call, 

And  streams  of  blood  o'erflow  the  Flemish  land. 

Oh  I   had  he  known,  when  with  a  jealous  hand 

He  nipped  the  leading  blossom  of  his  crown. 

That  he  had  cast  his  offspring  from  the  land, 

To  graft  a  bud  of  Bourbon  on  his  throne  I 

Be  to  his  mem'ry  some  indulgence  given. 

Whose  daring  genius  bade  this  fabric  rise; 

Gaze  on  this  mighty  holocaust  to  heaven, 

And  view  the  founder  with  forgiving  eyes. 

The  urns  two  Philips  and  one  Charles  contain, 

Three  kingly  puppets,  instruments  of  State, 

Degenerate,  weak,  unable  to  sustain 

A  crumbhng  empire,  sinking  with  its  weight. 

The  sun  of  Austria,  'fore  whose  noontide  ray 

The  dazzled  world  its  head  in  terror  bowed. 


no  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Now  tumbled  headlong  down  its  evening  way, 
Pale,  feeble,  sick,  involved  in  misty  cloud. — 
In  scenes  like  these  the  moralising  sage 
Reads  bitter  lessons  to  ambitious  man — 
How  weak  his  pride,  how  impotent  his  rage — 
His  schemes  how  empty,  and  how  short  his  span  I 


Toulouse  y  Septemher  ^rd,  1776. 

Dear  Brother, — We  went  to  Aranjuez,  where 
the  Court  was  on  the  2nd  or  3rd  of  May,  and  met 
with  the  most  distinguished  accueil  possible  from 
everybody  ;  walking  in  the  morning,  eating  a  great 
deal,  and  sitting  at  cards,  operas,  or  quietly  at 
Lord  Grantham's  in  the  evening.  All  the  ministers, 
especially  Losada  and  Grimaldi,  were  remarkably 
kind  and  polite,  the  ambassadors  very  civil  ;  as 
for  Lord  Grantham,  he  could  not  have  behaved 
in  a  more  cordial  manner  to  his  own  brother,  and 
I  esteem  myself  peculiarly  happy  in  having  made 
his  acquaintance,  and  obtained  his  friendship,  as 
I  have  great  reason  to  hope  I  have  made  that 
acquisition. 

The  King  was  anxious  for  us  to  see  everything 
there  and  at  Madrid,  and  we  had  every  reason  to 
be  flattered  with  our  reception.  The  fine  woods 
on  the  banks  of  the  Tagus,  a  great  rarity  in  Spain, 
the  luxuriant  flower  gardens,  of  which  the  island 
garden  is  as  beautiful  a  spot  as  any  I  know,  and 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  Ill 

the  charming  uniformity  of  the  new  streets,  render 
Aranjuez  a  most  agreeable  residence  in  the  spring 
months;  but  I  do  not  believe  it  is  wholesome,  for 
I  had  a  week's  attack  of  the  headache,  which,  how- 
ever, passed  over  without  any  other  bad  conse- 
quences. We  stayed  about  a  fortnight  at  Madrid, 
where  I  got  copies  of  many  valuable  transla- 
tions from  Arabic  manuscripts,  and  the  plans  and 
measurements  of  the  Moorish  palaces,  &c.,  with 
many  other  articles  of  great  use  and  satisfaction 
to  me. 

I  have  since  been  labouring  very  hard  in  polish- 
ing and  arranging  my  tour  ;  I  think  it  will  be 
interesting  from  the  great  helps  I  have  had,  which 
few  travellers  can  expect,  and  from  the  exactitude 
of  the  drawings.  I  hope  to  have  the  literary  part 
ready  this  winter,  but  I  am  under  great  difficulties 
about  engravings  ;  however,  I  hope  to  get  them  over 
soon.  As  you  are  acquainted  with  the  country 
from  Madrid  to  Bayonne,  I  shall  not  enter  into  any 
detail  on  that  head,  except  that  the  new  road 
through  the  Biscayan  mountains  is  very  fine  ;  rather 
too  narrow,  but  perhaps  the  country  is  too  rugged 
to  allow  of  more  breadth. 

We  arrived  at  Bayonne  about  the  igth  or  20th 
of  June,  and  rode  post  from  thence  to  Tarbes, 
seventeen  and  a  half  posts,  in  ten  hours,  in  one  of 


112  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

the  hottest  days  we  have  had  this  year  ;  yet  we 
were  not  in  the  least  incommoded  by  it. 

After  a  week's  stay  at  Tarbes,  where  I  found 
all  in  perfect  health,  we  went  to  Bagnères,  where 
we  passed  six  weeks  most  agreeably  in  a  select 
society  of  people  that  were  perfectly  easy  and 
sans  façon. 

Mrs.  Dillon  and  Popsy  were  of  the  set,  you 
may  be  sure.  We  usually  dined  at  home,  but 
spent  the  evening  all  together.  The  weather  was 
very  hot,  but  we  were  never  without  a  breeze  to 
refresh  the  air. 

We  came  to  Toulouse  about  the  i6th  of  last 
month,  and,  after  settling  the  nurse  and  children 
in  lodgings,  went  to  pass  a  week  with  the  Bishop 
of  Comminges,  where  Mrs.  Dillon  had  already 
been  some  time.  We  there  found  a  match  already 
settled  between  the  eldest  Osmond,  nephew  to 
the  bishop,  captain  in  the  regiment  cf  Bourgogne 
cavalry,  and  Mademoiselle  Popsy.  It  is  a  very 
sudden  affair,  having  then  only  been  entamé  four 
days.  I  daresay  they  will  be  happy,  for  Popsy 
semble  prendre  gout  à  la  chose  y  and  they  lived  en- 
tirely for  each  other  during  our  whole  stay.  Les 
amans  sont  ennuyeux,  and,  therefore,  we  did  not 
repine  at  their  making  use  of  their  privilege  and 
retiring    into    corners.      Mrs.    Dillon    is    in     high 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  113 

spirits.  The  gentleman  is  not  very  brilliant  in  his 
person,  but  that  is  her  affair.  He  seems  very  fond 
of  her;  and  his  good  uncle,  v^^ho  is  the  best- 
natured  creature  in  the  world,  does  everything  to 
promote  their  happiness.  The  family  is  very  good, 
from  Normandy,  and  protected  by  the  House  of 
Orleans,  so  that  he  may  hope  to  get  promotion. 
The  bishop  was  very  polite  to  us. 

We  returned  here,  where  the  company  of 
Madame  de  St.  Géry,  a  very  lively,  agreeable 
woman,  and  Mr.  Macarthy's  library,  make  us  spend 
our  time  very  agreeably. 

We  shall  set  out  with  Sir  Thomas  Gascoigne, 
on  Monday  next,  for  Montpellier  and  Lyons. 
After  a  short  stay  there  to  buy  clothes,  &c.,  we 
shall  go  to  Marseilles,  stay  there  a  few  weeks,  and 
then  take  ship  for  Naples,  where  we  shall  spend 
the  winter. 

The  Spanish  ministers  have  been  so  obliging 
as  to  send  us  letters  of  recommendation  to  all 
the  principal  people  at  the  Neapolitan  Court,  and, 
moreover,  have  mentioned  us  in  their  private 
correspondence,  which  will  ensure  us  a  welcome 
reception.  These  are  our  schemes  for  next  winter. 
As  yet  we  have  not  thought  where  the  ensuing 
spring  and  summer  are  to  be  passed,  and  when 
we  shall  be  back  in  England. 

8 


114  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

I  have  been  so  great  a  rambler  of  late,  that  I 
can  scarcely  recollect  having  lived  in  a  house  of 
my  own  ;  and  the  inconveniences  and  v^^ants  of 
inns  are  becoming  so  habitual  to  me,  that  I  am 
quite  contented  with  them,  and  think  ot  nothing 
better.  I  am  afraid  we  cannot  hope  to  meet  you 
this  year  ;  the  best  thing  you  can  do  is  to  ccme 
and  dance  at  the  wedding.  I  have  just  heard 
that  all  the  noce  is  coming  here  to-morrow. 

I  do  not  know  if  you  were  ever  at  St.  Ilde- 
phonso;  if  not,  it  may  perhaps  be  an  object  of 
curiosity  to  you.  By  particular  orders,  we  had 
all  the  waterworks  played  off  for  us,  and  really 
they  far  exceeded  my  expectations.  The  statues 
and  triumphal  arches,  from  which  the  jets  d'eau 
issue,  are  executed  in  a  very  good  style,  and, 
being  all  bronzed  over,  make  a  fine  show.  Their 
greatest  beauty,  however,  is  neither  the  height  to 
which  they  spout,  nor  the  ornaments  that  hang 
round  them  ;  but  the  prodigious  clearness  and 
limpidity  of  the  water,  which  is  truly  admirable. 
No  rock  crystal  can  reflect  the  rays  of  the  sun 
with  such  brilliancy.  We  were  fortunate  enough 
to  have  a  bright  afternoon,  without  a  breath  of 
wind,  so  that  the  column  of  water  went  up  per- 
fectly steady  and  true.  The  gardens  of  this  palace 
are  pleasant  and  shady,  but  the  trees  do  not  thrive, 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  II5 

from  being  planted  too  old  and  in  too  shallow  a 
soil.  They  have  been  at  immense  expense  in 
digging  and  blasting  round  the  roots,  in  order  to 
put  in  fresh  earth,  and  give  them  room  to  seek 
for  nourishment. 

Arts  and  sciences  make  great  progress  in 
Spain.  They  have  arrived  at  a  great  pitch  of 
perfection  in  printing,  and,  after  having  published 
Calderon,  are  now  printing  an  edition  of  Lopez 
de  la  Vega.  The  academy  has  engraved  several 
antiquities,  but  as  yet  offered  none  to  public  sale, 
except  views  of  the  Gothic  cathedral  of  Burgos, 
which  I  have  had  sent  me  since  I  left  Spain. 

Casiri,  Arabic  librarian  to  the  King,  was  pre- 
vailed upon  to  lend  me  the  translation  of  all  the 
Arabian  manuscripts  in  the  Escurial,  or  rather  an 
analysis  of  them,  and  all  the  plans  that  the 
academy  has  taken  at  Cordova,  Grenada,  &c. 
I  shut  myself  up  for  four  days  at  Madrid  to  copy 
out  what  I  thought  useful  for  my  project,  and  am 
sure  nobody  ever  had  the  same  opportunities. 
I  am  at  present  busy  v^riting  it  out  fair,  and  shall 
send  it  with  all  the  Moorish  architecture  to 
England.  The  other  views  I  shall  get  engraved 
where  I  can,  or  perhaps  take  a  few  lessons,  and 
etch  them  myself. 

I   have   not   had   a   letter    from    England    the 

8—2 


Il6  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

Lord  knows  when  ;  so  can  tell  you  no  news  of 
any  kind,  except  that  Lady  Tyrconnel  has  made 
an  elopement  with  Smith  Lorraine,  only  to 
Marybone.  She  declined  to  see  both  her  husband 
and  father,  who  came  to  fetch  her.  Her  lord  has 
positively  refused  to  sue  for  a  divorce,  as  he 
would  not  give  her  the  satisfaction  of  marrying 
her  paramour. 


Marseilles,  November  iSth,  1776. 

Dear  Brother, — Do  you  prefer  a  speedy 
answer,  written  by  a  sick  body,  with  a  cold  and 
stuffed  head  upon  him,  to  waiting  till  I  am  in 
better  health,  that  I  may  furnish  you  with  better 
entertainment  ?  I  can  do  either  with  a  safe 
conscience,  for  I  am  very  sure  I  run  no  risk  of 
your  having  left  Vienna  easily  in  the  winter. 
However,  as  I  can  get  no  answer  at  present  to 
this  most  sensible  question  of  mine,  I  must  take 
it  for  granted  you  like  me  to  go  on  with  my 
letter. 

We  arrived  here  about  ten  days  ago,  and  with 
great  difficulty  procured  a  lodging  up  three  pair 
of  stairs  at  a  most  extravagant  price.  During  a 
couple  of  days  we  exerted  all  our  talents  in 
ferreting  out  a  better   situation,  and   got   into  the 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  II7 

best  house  I  was  ever  in  in  France,  just  out  of 
the  town,  in  so  fine  a  situation  and  air,  so  large, 
so  well  furnished  and  convenient,  that  I  do  not 
like  the  thoughts  of  leaving  it. 

The  garden  is  very  spacious,  and  the  view 
over  the  harbour  and  court  delightful.  But,  how- 
ever, we  have  agreed  to  leave  all  this,  and  commit 
ourselves  and  all  the  fortunes  of  Ilium  to  the 
uncertainty  of  the  waves,  in  the  first  week  in 
December,  having  hired  a  large,  tight  vessel  for 
that  time  to  convey  us  direct  to  Naples.  Sir 
Thomas,  who  is  grown  so  well  habituated  to  a 
quiet  family  life,  that  he  cannot  think  of  leaving 
us,  goes  also. 

We  left  Toulouse  on  the  2ist  instant,  and 
joined  Lady  Warwick  and  General  Clarke  at 
Montpellier,  where  we  spent  a  month  very  agree- 
ably, and  I  may  say  usefully,  for  I  took  lessons 
in  botany  of  the  King's  gardener  to  perfect  myself 
in  Linnseus's  system.  I  drew  and  painted  plants, 
wrote  a  great  deal,  and  walked  still  more,  having 
met  with  an  intelligent  cicerone,  who  procured  me 
a  sight  of  all  that  is  curious  in  the  cabinets  of 
the  town,  among  which  the  collection  of  birds  of 
the  Baron  de  Tongères  is  the  most  remarkable. 

General  Clarke  has  a  house  for  the  winter  just 
out   of  Montpellier,   and  we  had  a  great   deal  of 


Il8  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

their  company.  We  then  established  our  quarters 
for  a  week  at  Nismes,  and  I  spent  a  great  deal  of 
my  time,  whilst  there,  in  M.  Seguier's  cabinet. 
He  has  a  valuable  collection  of  antiques,  medals, 
and  natural  history,  with  a  noble  library  ;  he 
himself  is  a  perfect  assemblage  of  all  kinds  of 
knowledge.^ 

We  made  an  excursion  to  Aries,  where  we 
found  a  great  many  Roman  antiquities,  but  few 
in  good  preservation.  It  would  be  too  tedious  to 
enter  into  details  ;  but  that  you  may  not  have 
reason  to  think  me  very  stupid,  I  will  recapitu- 
late what  we  saw  in  that  city,  which  is  out  of 
the  beaten  track  of  travellers. 

In  the  first  place  we  were  conducted  to  an 
unfinished  amphitheatre,  not  equal  in  size  and 
beauty  to  that  of  Nismes,  probably  built  about 
the  beginning  of  the  empire  of  Christianity,  and 
the  last  gasp  of  pagan  worship  and  pagan  shows  ; 
secondly,  an  Egyptian  obelisk,  without  hierogly- 
phics, set   up   in   a   square  ;    thirdly,   two  columns, 


I  Antoine  Louis  de  Seguier,  a  descendant  of  the  cele- 
brated Chancellor,  born  at  Nismes  in  1703.  He  was 
renowned  for  his  love  for,  and  knowledge  of,  antiquities. 
He  published  the  fruits  of  his  travels  and  researches  in 
various  highly  esteemed  works.  He  died  in  1784,  and 
bequeathed  his  noble  library  and  collection  of  medals  and 
antiques  to  his  native  city. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  II9 

twenty-five  feet  high,  which  supported  the  pro- 
scenium of  the  theatre,  a  work  of  Constantine's  ; 
fourthly,  part  of  the  pediment  and  two  columns 
of  a  public  hall  or  temple  ;  fifthly,  the  model  of 
the  Venus  found  here,  but  ordered  to  Versailles 
by  Louis  XIV.  ;  and  lastly,  the  great  burial-place 
out  of  the  town,  called  the  Elysian  fields,  full  of 
enormous  stone  temples  of  various  designs  and 
dimensions. 

From  Nismes  we  went  over  the  Pont-de-Gard, 
to  which  they  have  joined  a  bridge  and  made  the 
great  road,  and  thence  to  Avignon.  I  must  com- 
memorate the  view  of  that  city  from  the  opposite 
rocks,  as  the  finest  I  ever  saw  or  expect  to  see. 
We  visited  Vaucluse,  which,  being  low  in  water, 
was  little  worth  seeing — Hareshaw  Linn  is  worth 
fifty  of  it  —  and  Orange,  where  we  were  well 
pleased  with  the  circus  or  theatre,  and  the  arch. 
From  Avignon  we  went  across  the  country  (by  a 
horrible  road  par  parenthèse)  to  Berry,  to  see  a 
Roman  monument,  which  compensated  us  for  our 
trouble. 

About  a  mile  firom  the  cown,  on  a  small  hill 
m  a  vineyard,  stand  together  (but  not  directed 
towards  each  other,  which  puzzles  me  to  find  out 
whether  they  were  meant  to  have  any  connection, 
or  whether  they  only  form  part  of  a  great  number 


120  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

of  buildings)  the  remains  of  a  very  much  orna- 
mented triumphal  arch,  and  a  perfectly  entire 
mausoleum,  the  prettiest  bijou  I  ever  saw;  it  is 
square-built  below,  about  eighteen  feet  every  way. 
Upon  the  socle  rises  a  square  with  small  Ionic 
pilasters.  At  each  corner  and  on  the  face  are 
four  different  basso-relievos,  representing  a  combat 
between  horse  and  foot,  with  triumphs,  captives, 
&c.  Upon  this  is  raised  a  part  with  a  Corinthian 
column  at  each  angle,  and  pierced  through  with 
four  ornamented  arched  doors.  The  entablement 
above  is  enriched  with  ornaments  on  the  frieze, 
and  on  the  architrave  is  an  inscription  which  has 
been  variously  interpreted  by  antiquarians,  but 
certainly  denotes  a  sepulchral  monument.  Upon 
this  entablement  is  placed  an  open  circular  temple, 
with  its  dome  resting  upon  twelve  very  short  Cor- 
inthian pillars. 

Within  this  temple  are  two  statues  of  unequal 
size,  togatcB,  without  heads.  I  do  not  know  how 
they  got  them  in  ;  for  they  are  too  large  to  pass 
between  the  pillars  after  the  temple  was  finished. 
It  is  a  charming  edifice.  The  only  thing  that 
occurs  as  a  fault,  is  the  thickness  of  the  columns, 
quite  different  from  the  regulated  proportions  of 
the  Corinthian  order  ;  but  they  have  not  a  bad 
effect,   far   from   it;    and   who   knows   whether   the 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  121 

architect,  like   Shakespeare,  did   not  think   himself 
at  liberty  to  strike  out  new  rules  ? 

I  do  not  think  you  ever  passed  that  way;  if 
you  did,  you  will  think  all  this  description  de  trop, 
Aix  was  our  next  step,  and  then  we  came  to  this 
busy,  crowded  town,  which  is  brimful  of  English. 
You  shall  hear  from  me  soon  after  we  arrive  at 
Naples,  or,  if  we  go  to  the  bottom,  my  ghost  shall 
come  and  pinch  your  toe  at  Vienna. 

My  Spanish  tour  is  almost  ready  for  the  press  ; 
I  only  wait  for  a  proper  hand  to  send  them  with, 
and  to  have  answers  from  England  about  the  pub- 
lication, &c. 

I  know  nothing  new  to  add  to  the  trash  I  have 
written  above  ;  so  good  night,  for  I  have  a  symptom 
of  a  headache,  which  I  have  no  mind  to  bring  to 
a  categorical  answer. — Yours,  &c. 


Naples f  January  i6th,  1777. 

We  have  got  apartments  on  the  Chiaia,  which 
is  the  pleasantest  situation  here;  the  weather  is 
fine,  and  Vesuvius  is  covered  with  snow.  There 
are  a  great  many  English  here  at  present,  of  whom 
those  I  know  are  Lord  John  Clinton,  Lord  Tylney, 
Messrs.  Osbaldeston,  Dillon,  Tierney,  Molyneux, 
Lady   Catherine    and   Miss   Murray.      No   English 


122  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

minister  is  here  at  present,  and  M.  de  Sa,  the 
Portuguese  envoy,  does  the  business  of  presenting 
the  English. 

Sir  Thomas  and  I  went  for  that  purpose  to 
the  King's  palace  at  Caserta,  through  a  wood  of 
elms  and  a  very  fine  road.  I  was  not  much 
charmed  with  the  beauty  and  manners  of  either 
of  Their  Majesties.  The  King  is  thin  but  strong, 
of  a  fair  complexion  like  his  father.  The  Queen 
is  rather  ugly  than  otherwise.  She  did  not  say  a 
word,  and  scarcely  looked  at  us.  We  dined  that  day 
with  the  Prince  de  Jacci,  who  was  extremely  civil 
and  attentive,  and  then  went  with  him  to  the  opera 
of  Teseo.  I  know  not  by  whom  the  music  is  com- 
posed, but  it  does  not  do  credit  to  Italian  fame, 
and  as  to  the  dancing,  it  was  quite  shocking.  The 
house  was  finely  illuminated,  and  very  full  of  com- 
pany. I  have  also  been  to  the  Teatro  Nuovo, 
which  is  small,  with  a  bad  approach.  The  Buffo 
being  ill,  our  amusement  was  not  great. 

This  place  is  delightful,  and  more  enjoyable 
that  I  can  express.  I  have  walked  up  the  hills, 
and  came  down  by  the  castle  of  St.  Elmo,  from 
whence  the  prospect  is  absolutely  matchless.  No- 
thing can  be  gayer  than  the  town,  nor  kinder  than 
we  find  its  inhabitants.  I  know  not  whether  it 
is   in   consequence    of    their    natural    good -nature, 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  123 

nourished  by  the  balminess  of  the  climate,  and 
cheerfulness  of  all  nature  around,  où  gît  dans  son 
orgueil  tout  le  néant  de  l'homme,  or  whether  the 
civility  is  caused  by  the  letters  I  brought  from 
the  Duke  Grimaldi  and  the  Duke  de  Losardi. 
Non  importa!  The  Princess  Francavilla  is  all 
kindness;  we  have  been  with  her  to  St.  Carlos, 
and  to  rècevimento,  at  a  lying-in-lady's,  the  Duchess 
of  Montecalos,  and  a  ball  at  Madame  Andre's,  wife 
of  the  Swedish  Consul;  also  at  Cavalière  Cecco 
Mauro's,  an  officer  who,  after  making  his  fortune 
by  play,  is  spending  it  all  in  giving  balls. 

We  attended  a  profession,  at  StS  Chiara,  of 
the  sister  of  the  Prince  della  Rocca,  where  there 
was  much  music,  and  a  very  fine  gilt  church.  The 
nuns  seem  extremely  rich,  and  enjoy  great  liberty. 
All  the  female  convents  are  under  the  immediate 
jurisdiction  of  the  sovereigns.  The  Queen  visits 
them  in  their  turns  in  the  summer,  and  takes  a 
numerous  suite  with  her  to  partake  of  the  grand 
entertainment  given  by  the  nuns.  The  King  is 
legate  of  the  see  of  Rome  by  birth.  All  Neapolitan 
noblemen  must  ask  leave  of  absence,  which  is 
generally  granted  for  six  months,  and  perhaps 
renewed  twice,  but  never  more  ;  if  they  remained 
out  of  the  country  longer,  they  would  have  their 
estates  seized. 


124  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

The  Sicilians  are  not  under  the  same  restraint. 
Where  there  is  no  heir  within  the  fourth  degree, 
the  King  is  the  heir  to  the  noble  fief,  as  the  titles 
remain  on  the  lands,  which  are  plundered.  Many 
of  the  Princes  are  not  gentlemen. 

Lord  Tilney  has  soirées  every  week,  which  are 
very  agreeable. 

We  have  had  violent  hail-storms,  through  one 
of  which  I  found  myself  taking  a  walk  to  Puzzuoli, 
which  was  very  pleasant,  notwithstanding  the  wind 
and  occasional  pelting  of  the  storm.  The  sea  was 
rough  and  grand  ;  the  hills  are  nothing  but  a  heap 
of  cinders  hardened.  The  weather  is  now  grown 
more  hot.  I  had  a  walk  over  the  hills  out  of  the 
Camaldoli,  by  narrow  hollow  roads  through  the 
volcanic  rocks,  and  returned  through  woods  to  the 
lake  Agnano,  which  is  full  of  wild  fowl,  not  near  so 
pretty  as  our  lakes,  as  there  is  too  much  flat 
border  to  this. 

I  went  in  a  calèche  beyond  the  Torre  del 
Greco  and  Monte  St.  Angelo,  into  the  vineyards, 
to  the  spot  where  the  lava  stopped  some  days  ago  ; 
it  had  just  blocked  up  the  road,  overturned  a 
cottage,  and  buried  a  vineyard  before  it  ceased 
running.  There  is  yet  great  heat  in  it,  and  at 
night  it  flames.  During  daylight  there  is  only  a 
trembling  vapour  which   indicates   the   heat  under 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I25 

it.  The  lava  is  very  uneven  and  broken  in  the 
surface,  dark  and  shagged  like  iron  slag.  It  re- 
sembles the  appearance  of  the  first  workings  of  a 
mine  or  slate  quarry. 

Mrs.  Swinburne  has  been  presented  to  the 
Queen  by  Princess  Francavilla.  She  was  very 
civil  to  her.  Upon  the  following  day  there  was  a 
grand  gala  at  the  Court  on  account  of  its  being 
the  King  of  Spain's  birthday;  we  saw  there  the 
Prince  of  San  Lorenzo,  who  last  summer  used  to 
sit  in  the  Calle  Toledo  without  any  clothes  on, 
and  orders  were  issued  for  him  to  be  taken  up 
and  shut  up  in  Castle  St.  Elmo,  if  he  did  not 
wear  them. 

Lady  Anne  Severino  is  arrived,  the  eldest 
daughter  of  the  second  Lord  Derwentwater,  and 
heiress  of  the  earldom  of  Newburgh,  if  her  nephew 
have  no  children.     She  is   married   to   a   Venetian 

nobleman.  

January  2yth. 

There  was  a  ball  the  other  night  in  the 
Queen*s  apartments  in  dominos  and  masks.  The 
King  made  one  of  them.  Next  evening  the  tri- 
umphal car  of  the  four  seasons  of  the  Duke  of 
Madelona  paraded  the  streets,  a  festino  of  the 
Cavalièri  on  St*.  Lucia,  which  was  stupid  enough. 
There  were  few  masks  of  character,  and  all  seemed 


126  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

mute.  We  dined  with  Lady  Orford,  the  daughter- 
in-law  of  Sir  Robert  Walpole,  and  now  separated 
from  her  husband.  She  is  very  fond  of  whist,  and 
is  peculiar  for  always  saying  at  the  end,  **  And  two 
by  honours  y  '  by  which  declaration,  if  not  always 
investigated,  she  often  makes  two  more  on  her 
score  than  are  her  due,  unless  playing  with  those 
who  are  accustomed  to  her  pranks.  She  is  at  the 
same  time  very  severe  with  regard  to  others,  and 
scolds  famously  both  her  partner  and  her  antago- 
nists. 

We  were  amused  the  other  night  at  Lord 
Tilney's  card  party  by  a  scena.  A  Mrs.  Sperme, 
who  is  a  sort  of  toady  of  Lady  Orford's,  and 
generally  makes  up  her  whist  party,  happened 
to  have  thirteen  trumps  dealt  to  her.  She  was 
in  great  dismay,  being  frightened  to  death  at 
Lady  O.,  and  feeling  sure  she  would  accuse  her 
of  cheating,  at  least  by  innuendos,  if  not  openly. 
In  her  agitation  she  got  up  and  asked  leave  to 
speak  to  Lord  Tilney,  to  whom  she  told  her  dis- 
tress, and  asked  him  what  she  should  do. 

*'  Do,  madam  !  "  said  he;  "  why,  play  them  out, 
to  be  sure." 

The  wind  now  is  what  is  called  tramontana, 
which  is  not  very  pleasant.  I  have  been  lakmg 
a  walk   through  the   grotto   of  Fosilipo   m   a   road 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I27 

to  the  left,  where  the  peasants  were  very  busy 
pruning  their  vines  and  poplars,  and  tying  them 
together.  Fellows  at  the  top  were  singing  as 
loud  as  they  could  bawl  ditties  like  those  of  the 
Spaniards.  I  stopped  opposite  Nisida,  to  enjoy 
the  pleasures  of  such  a  prospect,  and  ascended 
the  neck  of  land  on  the  left,  where  the  violets 
were  out,  and  the  rock  of  tufa  covered  with  purple 
stocks  and  gillyflower.  Then  I  descended  towards 
the  sea  of  the  bay,  where  I  fell  in  with  the  Villa 
Maza.  I  there  read  a  long  inscription  on  marble, 
denoting  that  here  were  the  fishponds  of  Pollio,* 
who  fed  his  lampreys  with  human  gore  and  flesh, 
and  bequeathed  these  ponds,  which  are  near 
Posilipo,  to  Augustus.  I  could  not  get  admit- 
tance, as  the  farmer's  people  were  at  work,  so  I 
returned  up  the  banks  of  ashes,  washed  into  gullies 
by  the  rains,  to  the  village,  and  came  home  by 
the  stairs  near  Virgil's  tomb. 

There  is  a  divine  prospect  from  Capo  di 
Monte.  When  the  palace  there  was  nearly 
finished,  it  was  ascertained  that  there  was  no 
water.  I  saw  a  glorious  collection  of  pictures 
and  medals  belonging  to  the  house  of  Farnese. 

I  This  monster  was  consul  during  the  reign  of  Augustus, 
who  having  discovered  the  horrible  practices  of  Pollio  Videus, 
ordered  the  ponds  to  be  filled  up,  and  dismissed  him  from 
his  favour. 


128  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

February  Sth, 

There  have  been  magnîficent  balls  at  the  Court, 
but  one  of  them  the  other  night  was  stopped  and 
put  an  end  to  dans  le  beau  milieu  by  Her  Majesty, 
who  could  not  contain  her  jealousy  of  the  Duchess 
of  Lucciana,  and  in  her  fury  she  ordered  every 
one  to  depart.  They  say  she  is  also  very  jealous 
of  the  dancer  Rossi,  whom  the  King  admires,  é 
gelosia  d'impero,  non  gelosia  d'amor. 

The  French  ambassador  gives  great  balls,  which 
are  very  agreeable;  and  a  French  theatre  is  set  up, 
where  we  saw  Les  Dehors  Trompeurs  very  well  acted. 
We  dined  one  day  with  Prince  Francavilla,  and 
went  after  dinner  to  see  the  procession  of  Don 
Marco  Ottoboni  through  the  Calle  Toledo,  con- 
sisting of  sledges  and  hunters  of  various  nations, 
richly  dressed.  The  masks  afterwards  came  to 
the  Court  ball  in  their  dresses. 

There  has  been  another  profession  at  St.  Mary's 
of  Egypt.  The  devotee  was  daughter  of  the  Duchess 
of  Monterolendo.  The  Duchess  is  very  handsome 
still,  as  are  most  of  her  children,  of  whom  she  has 
had  above  twenty.  She  would  much  rather  her 
daughter  married,  as  it  costs  her  more  to  make 
them  nuns  than  to  get  husbands  for  such  pretty 
girls.      A    thousand    pounds    scarcely   defrays    the 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I29 

musical  and  other  expenses  of  these  ceremonies, 
besides  a  pension  to  the  nun,  and  something  they 
reserve  a  power  over  in  favour  of  the  monastery, 
vi^hen  they  shall  arrive  at  the  great  offices  of  the 
convent. 

The  Landgrave  of  Hesse  Cassel  is  arrived,  and 
made  his  début  at  the  French  ambassador's  ball. 
We  went  to  the  Fiorentini  theatre,  which  had  very 
pretty  music,  and  good  actors.  II  Matrimonio  per 
Concorso  (or  in  Contratto)  was  performed. 

The  festinos  are  crowded,  and  there  is  no  end 

to  the  balls. 

February  12th, 

Yesterday  we  dined  early  to  go  to  the  house 
of  the  Marquis  de  Sambuca,  the  Prime  Minister, 
where  the  King,  Queen,  and  chief  nobility  were 
present  in  the  Calle  Toledo.  The  street  was  lined 
with  a  double  row  of  guards  behind  ropes,  the 
coaches  paraded  in  the  middle,  and  the  foot  people 
crowded  it  as  thick  as  can  possibly  be  conceived. 
Every  window  was  full  of  spectators,  leaning  upon 
tapestry  and  silk  hangings.  With  difficulty  could 
the  postilions,  by  cracking  their  whips,  make  room 
for  the  five  cars  of  the  Madelona,  and  the  sledges 
of  the  hunters  with  horsemen  and  hounds  attending 
them. 

This   parade    of    Ottoboni  was  closed  by  the 

VOL.    I  Q 


130  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Bucentaur.  The  last  that  came  was  an  English 
packet-boat,  manned  by  the  royal  cadets.  After 
these  carriages  had  passed  twice  before  Their 
Majesties,  the  street  was  cleared  by  the  dragoons, 
and  everybody  driven  behind  the  cords,  and  then, 
on  the  firing  of  a  few  petards,  a  dozen  hack 
horses,  with  fellows  on  them  riding  bare  backed, 
came  galloping  down  the  street.  The  prize  was  a 
piece  of  tissue.  This  was  but  poor  work  ;  but  the 
next  race  of  fine  barbs  without  riders  was  very 
amusing,  and  its  coup  d'œil  admirable. 

Waiting  until  dark,  the  carriages  returned  in 
the  same  order,  very  well  illuminated.  Madelonas 
stopped  opposite  the  King,  and  played  off  a  pretty 
brisk  firework  out  of  the  front  of  each  car.  The 
illuminations  of  the  Bucentaur  were  beautiful  be- 
yond measure.  I  never  saw  finer  sights  than 
these. 

From  thence  we  went  to  the  ball  at  Court, 
where  an  excellent  hot  supper  was  served,  each 
person  eating  on  his  knees,  and  in  the  best  manner 
he  could.  In  the  ball-room  the  chairs  were  set 
so  as  to  form  a  square  in  the  middle  of  the  room, 
and  the  company  sat  facing  each  other  in  a  double 
row.  The  attention  of  the  Count  de  I'Acerra  to 
our  table  of  English  was  beyond  expression.  We 
were   served   with   pies,   hams,  wines,    fruit   in   the 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I3I 

greatest  profusion.  The  King  played  at  Macao, 
and  at  twelve  went  to  the  Festino  d'Unione  at 
the  Casino.  Soon  after  we  broke  up.  Both  the 
King  and  Queen  spoke  much  to  us,  and  the  King 
said  he  had  seen  little  Harry  the  day  before  pull 
off  his  hat  to  him,  and  look  very  pretty  when  he 
did  so. 

The  King  is  very  good-natured  and  well  dis- 
posed, as  many  traits  evince.  He  is  boyish  and 
romping,  and  very  fond  of  amusement  ;  excels 
in  telling  a  story,  and  setting  it  off  in  the  most 
ridiculous  colours.  He  speaks  Italian  and  French, 
but  generally  talks  Neapolitan.  His  voice  is  harsh, 
and  his  gestures  boisterous.  He  has  no  very  strong 
passion  for  women,  and  what  country  girls  and 
others  he  has  taken  a  fancy  to  has  been  at  the 
instigation  of  those  about  him,  who  put  him  up 
to  it.  He  has  no  jealousy  about  him.  His  in- 
trigues have  lain  in  the  sphere  of  Contadine, 
except  a  Madame  Golard,  wife  to  a  French  author 
on  Economy,  and  an  Englishwoman.  But  he 
found  out  she  had  a  cancer,  and  she  and  her 
husband  were  banished  immediately.  He  has  had 
some  flirtations  with  ladies  of  rank,  one  of  whom 
was  exiled  because  that  the  Queen  found  a  note  of 
hers  to  the  King,  with  some  extraordinary  expres- 
sions.    His  present  views  are  upon  the  Rossi,  first 

9—2 


132  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

dancer  at  the  opera,  and  late  mistress  to  the  Duke 
of  Arcos.  She  always  comes  to  the  balcony,  when 
the  King  appears  at  his,  to  see  the  masks.  They 
say  he  was  in  love  with  the  Duchess  of  Lucciana, 
daughter  of  the  Marquis  de  Gonzuala,  Secretary 
of  State. 

The  Queen  has  something  very  disagreeable  in 
her  manner  of  speaking,  moving  her  whole  face 
when  she  talks,  and  gesticulating  violently.  Her 
voice  is  very  hoarse,  and  her  eyes  goggle.  She 
has  acquired  a  roundness  in  her  shoulders,  and  is 
very  fond  of  showing  her  hand,  which  is  beautiful. 
If  she  sees  or  suspects  the  King  to  be  taken  with 
any  woman,  she  plagues  her  life  out,  is  in  horrid 
humour,  and  leaves  no  stone  unturned  to  break 
off  all  connection  between  them  ;  whether  from 
real  jealousy  or  apprehension  of  losing  the  power 
she  has  over  her  husband,  which  is  very  great, 
since  she  has  got  quit  of  old  Tanucci.*  The  King 
cries  out  in  vain  that  his  case  is  very  hard,  that 
he  cannot  go  where  he  pleases,  &c. 


I  Bernard  Tanucci,  minister  to  Ferdinand  IV.,  a  native 
of  Pisa,  where  he  was  educated  for  the  bar,  and  soon  dis- 
tinguished himself  by  his  talents.  He  at  length  rose  to  the 
highest  dignity,  and  died  at  Naples  in  1783.  He  has  not 
only  left  behind  him  several  works  on  jurisprudence  and 
philosophy,  but  the  reputation  of  being  an  excellent  states- 
man and  liberal-minded  minister. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,     ETC.  1 33 

The  disgrace  of  Tanucci  had  long  been  the 
main  object  of  the  Queen,  and  the  King  was  very 
glad  to  leave  her  free  scope  to  follow  that  plan. 
Wilseky,  the  imperial  envoy,  managed  it  by  means 
of  the  interposition  of  the  Queen  of  France.  The 
King  of  Spain  reluctantly  gave  way,  on  condition 
that  there  should  be  no  more  masked  balls  at  the 
theatre — a  strange  bargain  I 

Sambuca,  who  succeeded  Tanucci,  was  a 
creature  of  Prince  Jacci's,  and  looks  very  unlike 
a  genius  :  his  aspect  is  heavy  and  inanimate  :  his 
first  manœuvre  was  very  impolitic  and  blundering, 
in  laying  a  tax  upon  oil,  which  he  was  obliged  to 
take  off  the  week  after.  The  present  system  is 
to  keep  a  strong  garrison  in  Naples,  and  to  take 
care  that  the  inhabitants  shall  always  be  supplied 
with  food  at  a  moderate  rate.  These  measures,  it 
is  said,  will  insure  perpetual  quiet  in  this,  formerly, 
so  turbulent  a  people. 

A  fund  has  long  been  established  for  purchasing 
corn  and  selling  it  for  less  to  the  poor  in  case  of  a 
scarcity.  Tanucci  and  his  creatures  are  accused  of 
having  defirauded  the  King  and  embezzling  most  of 
the  money,  and  one  of  the  agents  has  absconded. 

Ill-natured  people  say  the  Queen's  gallantries 
are  numerous,  and  that  her  confidante  was  the 
Duchess  of  San  Severo,  whose  husband  was  at  one 


134  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

time  a  great  favourite  with  the  King.  For  some 
unknown  reasons  the  Queen  has  had  a  quarrel 
with  the  Duchess,  who,  to  revenge  herself,  per- 
suaded her  husband  to  inform  His  Majesty  of  his 
conduct,  upon  promise  of  his  never  divulging  the 
name  of  his  informer.  The  King,  who  was  just 
then  worried  to  death  by  the  Queen's  real  or 
affected  jealousies,  was  quite  enchanted  with  this 
discovery,  and  could  not  help  telling  her  of  it  the 
first  time  she  upbraided  him  with  going  astray. 
This  attack  made  her  furious,  and  she  never 
rested  till  she  learned  firom  him  the  name  of  the 
person  who  had  given  him  this  information.  The 
Duke  of  San  Severo  was  banished  firom  Naples, 
and  his  vexation  brought  on  a  fever,  of  which  he 
died. 

The  King  once  carried  his  jokes  so  far  as,  at 
a  grand  supper  at  Posilipo,  to  take  Guarini  by 
the  hand  and  bring  him  up  from  the  end  of  the 
table  to  the  seat  next  the  Queen,  saying  that  was 
his  place  ;  she  boiled  with  anger,  but  was  forced 
to  swallow  the  affront,  and,  as  soon  as  she  could, 
had  him  removed  to  Turin,  there  furnished  a 
house  for  him,  and  gave  him  a  magnificent  set  of 
porcelain,  which  she  had  received  as  a  present 
firom  the  Emperor',  besides  a  very  fine  diamond 
star  and  cross.     Her  present  favourite  is  an  officer 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I35 

in  the  guards,  son  of  the  late  Prince  of  Marrico. 
They  are  much  together  at  the  masquerades,  &c. 
She  is  only  allowed  50,000  ducats  a  year  for  every 
expense,  therefore  cannot  be  very  generous. 

The  streets  of  Naples  are  paved  with  square 
blocks  of  lava,  which  must  be  at  least  a  hundred 
years  old  ;  each  stone  is  laid  in  its  place  by  con- 
tract, at  a  tarino,  or  two  carlini.  The  Calle  To- 
ledo requires  new  paving  once  in  seven  or  eight 
years.  I  cannot  think  this  people  so  very  wicked 
as  they  are  represented  to  be  by  authors,  who 
sometimes  only  copy  one  another  ;  for,  during  the 
vast  crowding  and  embarras  of  the  shows  on 
Tuesday,  not  the  least  quarrel  or  tumult  of  any 
kind  could  be  perceived,  a  thing  I  defy  Paris  or 
London  to  show  the  parallel  of;  nay,  in  the  great 
famine  of  1764,  the  only  violence  a  hungry  popu- 
lace (increased  to  double  its  numbers  by  the  influx 
of  people  from  the  provinces,  where  every  crop 
had  failed)  can  be  said  to  have  committed,  was 
storming  one  baker's  house.  It  is  written  that, 
winter  and  summer,  the  streets  are  crowded  with 
fellows  that  sleep  on  the  ground  and  under  bulks. 
I  am  sure  all  this  winter  the  streets  have  been 
empty  during  night  of  all  sleepers,  nor  do  I  think 
it  possible  for  any  creatures  to  have  lain  out  in 
such  weather. 


136  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

We  have  had  parties  at  the  house  of  Gen- 
sano,  at  Princess  Feralito's  and  Lord  Tilney's, 
where  I  met  the  Polish  Prince  Solkonski  and  his 
wife.  It  is  he  who  was  taken  prisoner,  when  he 
was  fighting  for  the  Russians,  by  the  King  of 
Prussia,  who  sent  him  prisoner  to  the  fortress  of 
Glogau,  and  compelled  the  troops  he  had  levied 
to  enter  the  Prussian  service.  We  had  a  grand 
dinner  at  Lord  Dalrymple's,  after  which  a  puppet- 
show  and  conversazione. 


February  2^th. 

Mrs.  Swinburne  and  I  went  to  Puzzuoli, 
where  we  took  a  boat  to  Agrippina's  tomb,  and 
landed  below  Baia,  firom  whence  we  walked  to 
the  Piscina  Mirabile  and  the  Elysian  fields, 
and  dined  at  a  cottage,  where  we  drank  some 
excellent  wine,  of  the  growth  that  is  bought  up, 
carried  about  at  sea  for  a  few  months,  and  then 
sold  at  Naples  for  French  wine.  We  had  also 
some  good  buffalo  cheese,  called  Caccio  di  Cavallo. 
We  then  visited  the  Monte  Nuovo,  which  is 
covered  with  low  shrubs,  the  remains  of  the 
Lucrine  lake,  passed  up  to  Nero's  baths,  then  took 
a  boat  in  the  bay  of  Baia,  and  rowed  along  the 
Via  Appia,  which  appears  very  plainly.  The 
Piscina   Mirabile,    built    by    Agrippa    for    watermg 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I37 

the  Roman  fleet,  supplied  by  an  aqueduct  carried 
along  the  hills  for  many  miles,  was  a  noble 
work.  We  picked  up  on  the  shore  some  mosaics, 
small  medals  and  marbles. 

We  visited  Pompeii  with  Sir  Thomas,  Mr. 
Stanley  and  Mr.  Pelham  ;  and  words  cannot  ex- 
press how  much  I  was  interested  and  delighted. 
I  will  not  send  you  a  description  of  it,  as  so 
many  are  in  print. 

Sir  Thomas  and  I  went  to  Court  at  Santo 
Leuci,  near  Caserta,  dined  at  San  Nicolo  di 
Strada  with  some  Italian  gentlemen,  then  to  the 
prime  minister's  at  Caserta,  and  accompanied  the 
Prince  of  Sweden  into  the  park,  where  the  King 
and  Queen  were  under  an  arbour  of  leaves,  facing 
the  flight  of  steps,  down  which  the  waters  of  the 
aqueduct  were  let  off  at  the  signal  of  a  gun 
which  the  King  fired.  Immediately  after  this  the 
fire  was  repeated  over  the  hills  by  a  crowd  of 
chasseurs  and  peasants,  who  hallooed,  and  popped 
away  as  they  advanced  down  the  hill  to  drive  the 
game  towards  us.  Some  wild  boars  came  down, 
and  one  plunged  through  the  cascade.  The  King 
did  not  fire  at  them,  but  shot  a  hare.  Upon  the 
whole,  though  there  was  not  much  in  it,  the 
scene  was  rural  and  pleasing. 

We  then  drove  to  the  King's  hunting-box  in 


138  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

the  park  upon  a  hill,  where  we  played  at  cards 
with  His  Majesty,  till  about  nine,  and  then  re- 
turned to  Naples.  The  King  was  very  courteous 
and  good-humoured.  Before  he  sat  down,  he 
begged  there  might  be  no  ceremony,  as  this  was 
only  a  casino.  He  told  us  a  long  story  of  an 
escape  he  had  from  a  wild  buffalo  once,  near 
Nola,  by  climbing  up  a  tree.  He  is  apt  to  give 
into  the  marvellous,  a  trick  his  father  is  very 
often  caught  at. 

Lady  Orford  gives  many  dinners.  We  met 
there  the  other  day  some  pleasant  people,  Cavalier 
Mozzif  Lord  Dalrymple,  Lord  Graham,  and  Mr. 
Crosbie,  with  whom  we  made  a  party  the  next 
day  to  Portici,  where  Princess  Francavilla  in- 
formed us  an  excavation  was  about  to  be  made 
of  more  rooms.  It  was  a  charming  excursion. 
Traversing  the  beautiful  fragrant  plains,  and  cross- 
ing the  winding  river  Sarno,  which  is  as  clear  as 
crystal,  we  ascended  through  a  vineyard  over 
heaps  of  ashes  to  the  excavation  which  has  been 
made  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  from  whence  is  a  view 
of  Ischia,  Procida,  Naples,  Portici,  Vesuvius,  ana 
the  Apennines,  which  extend  beyond  Castell'  a 
mare,  and  all  the  vale  of  Nola.  The  principal 
place  now  opened  here  is  a  vapour-bath,  with  its 
flues.       The    superintendent     treated    us    with    a 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I39 

magnificent  basket  of  fruit.  The  grapes  were 
curiously  dried  with  pine-apple  kernels  in  each. 
The  oxen  here  are  singularly  large  and  white. 

On  our  return  we  had  the  pleasure  of  finding 
our  firiend  Mr.  Bankes  arrived,  and  took  him 
with  us  to  spend  the  evening  at  the  Duchess  of 
Cotossiano's. 

Naples,  March  12th. 

We  have  made  many  excursions  —  one,  of 
course,  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  on  a  mule 
from  Portici,  which  I  rode  to  the  point  where 
vegetation  ceases  ;  there  I  left  it,  and  ascended 
the  cone  by  the  help  of  a  man,  who  went  before 
with  a  handkerchief  round  his  waist  for  me  to 
hold  by.  We  met  and  followed  several  persons 
on  the  same  errand.  I  confess  I  was  disappointed 
at  the  summit. 

We  have  visited  Cumse  and  the  Lake  Avernus. 
The  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  are  numerous — broken 
pieces  of  marble  and  stucco  lie  about  everywhere. 
The  people  go  forth  after  the  rain  to  see  what 
has  been  washed  down,  and  find  many  curious 
things. 

The  other  day  I  took  a  boat  and  rowed  round 
the  Punta  di  PosiHpo  to  the  island  of  Nisida,  which 
belongs  to  the  Marchese  di  Petrono,  and  is  farmed 


140  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

at  seven  hundred  scudi.  It  produces  honey  and 
rabbits.  The  Porto  Savono  is  a  circular  crater, 
very  strongly  characterised.  I  saw  some  very 
large  black  snakes  in  the  grass  and  on  the  walls. 
The  ships  perform  quarantine  here.  I  found  in 
the  corner  of  a  house  in  a  vineyard  north  of  the 
grotto  the  Colunna  Milliaria  of  white  marble,  with 
this  inscription:  "Imp.  Csesar  D.M.  Nerva  Nervae 
Germanicus  De  Maximus  Trib.  Potestate  vis." 

The  Pisciarelli  are  hot  boiling  streams  that 
issue  out  of  the  side  of  the  Solfatara  towards  the 
Lake  Agnano.  You  hear  the  great  caldron  boil 
with  vast  violence  through  a  narrow  canal.  The 
waters  smell  disagreeably  of  sulphur,  and  the  earth 
around  is  red  and  yellow. 

Some  days  ago  we  dined  at  Caserta,  at  Prince 
Francavilla's,  and  walked  in  the  boschetto,  a  charm- 
ing grove  of  evergreen  and  common  oaks.  The 
King  has  cut  down  a  large  portion  of  it  to  build 
a  foolish  dirt  pie  of  a  fortress  for  his  amuse- 
ment. At  the  end  of  the  wood  is  the  Peschiera, 
a  square  pond,  with  a  pretty  thatched  room,  and 
an  island  in  the  middle.  They  have  two  tame 
pelicans  there.  We  then  went  to  the  aqueduct, 
which  conveys  the  Acqua  Julia  to  Caserta,  over 
the  valley  through  which  the  King  of  Spain 
marched  his  army  to  Nantes. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I4I 

The  Recollets  is  a  beautifully  woody  spot. 
Old  Cascita  rises  on  the  crown  of  a  lofty  hill. 
We  continued  mounting  and  winding  to  a  ruined 
chapel,  from  which  we  commanded  the  finest  land 
view  imaginable  over  all  the  Campania  Felici. 

Thence  we  drove  to  the  palace,  which  is  per- 
haps the  most  perfect,  sumptuous,  and  extensive 
in  the  world — such  profusion  of  marble,  all  the 
produce  of  the  two  kingdoms  of  the  Two  Sicilies. 

The  Prince  Francavilla  has  his  stud  at  Difesa, 
where  we  dined  with  him.  It  is  a  flat  grass 
country,  very  unwholesome  in  summer.  On  our 
return  we  stopped  at  the  King's  haras,  and  saw 
all  his  horses  and  mares,  sad  cattle,  indeed,  never 
crossed  or  improved. 

The  husbandmen  hereabouts  bury  their  beans 
and  lupins  before  flower  for  manure,  and  hoe  and 
dig  all  the  plain  under  the  vines,  harrowing  and 
smoothing  with  oxen. 

The  excursions  we  make  are  delightfully 
amusing  and  interesting  ;  for,  except  in  taking 
views,  my  wife  has  the  same  propensities  as 
myself  for  antiquities,  and  our  mode  of  life  is  so 
pleasant  in  this  delicious  climate,  where  no  im- 
pediment of  weather  prevents  our  daily  journeys 
of  discovery,  that  it  is  impossible  for  me  to  ex- 
press   how    agreeably    the    time    passes.      "  Vedi 


142  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Napoli  e  poi  mori  "  is  the  Neapolitan  proverb  • 
but  I  say,  on  the  contrary,  that  after  living  at 
Naples  it  is  impossible  not  to  wish  to  live  that 
one  may  return  to  it.  However,  at  present  we 
have  no  thoughts  of  quitting  it,  and  that  is  still 
better.  Mais  enfin  ce  mauvais  terns  viendra  I  L'on 
ne  peut  pas  se  domicilier  hors  de  son  pays. 


April  8fh, 

The  English  have  clubbed  to  give  a  puppet- 
show  burletta.  The  other  day  the  city  magistrates 
walked  in  procession  to  seven  churches;  all  were 
dressed  in  black  velvet,  embroidered,  with  scarlet 
tissue  sleeves  and  waistcoats.  The  ladies  here  are 
carried  about  in  rich  Sedan  chairs,  and  their 
liveries  are  very  magnificent. 

The  Queen  is  very  generous,  but  has  not  a 
large  allowance.  When  she  first  took  a  fancy  to 
Nasarino,  she  told  the  Princess  of  Stigliano,  whose 
cecisbeo  he  then  was,  that  she  must  give  him  up 
to  her,  and  the  Stigliano  consented  ;  but  the 
gallant  himself  was  restive,  and  would  not  be  dis- 
posed of,  and  devoted  his  time  and  attendance 
to  a  third  lady,  whom  he  really  loved. 

The  Prince  of  Stigliano  is  extremely  timorous. 
He  refused  the  viceroyship  of  Sicily  until  the  King 
allowed  him  to  take  the  Spanish  regiment  of  Arra- 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I43 

gon  cavalry  with  him.  He  sailed  with  it  and 
landed  with  it.  It  happened  soon  after  his  arrival 
that  he  assisted  at  a  procession,  at  the  end  of 
which  the  whole  crowd  threw  down  their  torches 
and  bawled  out  **Viva  Maria!  muora  1' Inferno  1  " 
The  poor  frightened  viceroy,  thinking  the  rebellious 
Sicilians  were  crying  **  Muora  il  governo  !  "  was 
seized  with  violent  convulsions,  and  forced  to  be 
carried  into  the  sacristy.^ 

Another  time  one  of  his  coach-horses  fell  down 
on  the  parade,  and  the  mob  ran  to  help  his  peo- 
ple. Stigliano,  supposing  it  was  a  revolt  breaking 
out,  jumped  out  of  the  coach  and  flew  for  refuge 
to  a  neighbouring  church,  calling  out  to  the 
cavalry  to  follow  him  and  save  his  life.  Cer- 
tainly Sancho  Panza  was  fitter  for  a  viceroy. 

The  King  was  educated  by  a  friar  of  no  good 
reputation,  one  Tanucci  Samiandro,  of  the  Sof- 
frada  family,  which  claims   to  be   descended  from 

I  A  similar  but  amusing  quid  pro  quo  took  place,  in  a 
humbler  sphere,  at  Paris,  in  1829.  A  German  company  of 
comedians  proceeded  to  that  capital  to  give  a  few  repre- 
sentations. The  reputation  for  beauty  of  the  prima  donna, 
Fischer,  had  preceded  her.  The  piece  chosen  for  the  début 
was  the  Freischutz,  in  which  Agathe  (Madame  Fischer)  ap- 
pears in  the  first  scene  with  a  bandage  over  her  forehead. 
Some  wag  in  the  pit,  being  impatient  to  see  her  face,  called 
out  "A  bas  le  fichu  1"  which  Agathe,  who  understood  little 
French,  mistook  for  "Bas  la  Fischer  1"  and,  being  over- 
whelmed at  such  a  greeting,  fell  into  hysterics. 


144  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  Lombards.  His  Majesty's  manners  are  not 
very  refined  ;  when  the  Emperor  was  here,  and 
standing  at  a  balcony  with  his  brother-in-law,  the 
latter  made  a  very  unwarrantable  noise,  and,  by 
way  of  apology,  said,  "  E  necessario  per  la  salute, 
fratello  mio."' 

We  dined  yesterday  with  the  Marquis  de 
Sambuca,  who,  during  the  whole  time  of  dinner, 
never  opened  his  lips,  either  to  eat  or  speak,  and 
looked  quite  planet-struck.  I  thought  he  was 
seized  with  some  mad  fit,  or  hypochondria,  but  it 
came  out  afterwards  that  his  dismayed  appearance 
was  caused  by  Carlino,  the  intendant  of  the  King's 
bakehouse,  who  had  been  put  in  prison  for  cheat- 
ing, having  made  his  escape  from  thence,  and 
was  just  retaken  as  he  was  endeavouring  to  get 
to  the  King  to  make  a  discovery  of  everything  ; 
which,  it  is  believed,  would  have  strongly  impli- 
cated Sambuca. 

I    have   visited    Dottore    Cyrillo's    house    near 

I  It  is  recorded  of  the  Count  d'Artois  that,  upon  re- 
turning to  the  pavilion  Marsan  one  night  from  the  opera, 
and  entering  his  own  apartments,  he  gave  his  hat  to  his 
gentleman-in-waiting,  and  at  the  same  time  committed  a 
similar  solecism  in  good  breeding,  saying  the  while,  as  he 
coolly  looked  at  his  attendant,  "  Ah  I  quel  bonheur  d'être 
seul."  The  Persians  look  upon  their  slaves  as  "nobody"; 
the  Count  d'Artois  appears  to  have  considered  his  "gentle- 
man" in  the  same  light. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I45 

Capo  di  Monte,  to  see  his  drawings  of  Calabria. 
In  his  Hbrary  is  the  skeleton  of  a  celebrated 
courtesan  who  was  attempted  to  be  converted  by 
a  famous  Jesuit.  His  endeavours  proving  fruitless, 
he  threatened  her  that,  unless  she  changed  her 
way  of  life,  and  listened  to  his  admonitions,  she 
should  die  on  such  a  day  and  at  such  an  hour. 
Accordingly,  she  expired  at  the  precise  time,  and 
the  Jesuit  pretended  to  have  heard  her  ghost  con- 
fess she  was  punished  for  having  slighted  his  pre- 
diction. As  this  adventure  was  long  the  public 
talk,  an  eminent  anatomist  had  her  body  exhumed 
and  dissected. 

It  is  strange  that  now,  the  middle  of  April, 
Mount  Vesuvius,  as  well  as  the  Sorrento  moun- 
tains, should  be  covered  with  snow. 

The  Prince  de  Janni  has  a  villa  at  Résina, 
where  we  dined.  His  gardens  are  extensive,  and 
have  outlet  to  the  sea.  We  afterwards  saw  the 
gardens  of  the  Duke  of  Montelione,  which  are 
very  fine  ;  there  is  a  prodigious  quantity  of  pine- 
apples, but  poor  things.  Here  the  gardeners  put 
the  sets  of  the  plants  into  a  hot-house,  if  it  may 
be  so  called,  where  there  is  no  fire,  and  common 
mould  instead  of  tan.  In  a  month  they  produce 
fruit,  which  I  have  not  yet  tasted  in  perfection. 
At  Chiaramonte  are  a  great  many  botanical  plants. 

VOL.  I  10 


146  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Sannazar's  tomb  is  in  the  church  of  Mergellina. 
That  of  Virgil  is  nothing  at  all  ;  it  is  strangely 
situated  in  a  nook  of  the  rock.  Over  the  right 
hand  of  the  entrance  into  the  grotto  of  Posilipo, 
opposite  to  it,  is  the  following  inscription  : — 

"  Qui  cineras  ?  tumuli  his  vestigia  I 
Conditus  olim  ille  est  qui  cecinit  pascua  rura,  duces." 


May  2'^rd, 

I  went  with  Mr.  Thomas  Pelham  a  pleasant 
trip  to  Capri  in  five  hours.  We  had  charming 
weather  and  a  smooth  sea.  The  landing-place  is 
one  of  the  most  enchanting  spots  imaginable,  em- 
belHshed  by  a  variety  of  timber,  evergreens,  and 
country-houses,  with  the  town  rising  above  them 
all. 

All  fruits  thrive  there,  and  no  inch  of  the  soil 
is  lost.  The  points  of  view  are  delightful,  and 
vary  every  moment.  The  eastern  is  divided  from 
the  western  part  of  the  island  by  immense  per- 
pendicular rocks,  and  the.  only  communication  is 
by  a  staircase  of  above  four  hundred  steps.  We 
mounted  the  eastern  heights  to  the  point  which 
hangs  over  the  sea.  Here  was  Tiberms'  summer 
villa,  of  which  the  vaults  and  reservoirs  are  still 
pretty  perfect.  Above  his  palace  now  stands  a 
hermitage,    from    which    the    view    of    the    Pestan 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  147 

coast,  and  of  all  the  Gulf  of  Naples  and  coast  of 
Romagna,  is  quite  matchless;  on  a  neighbouring 
point  is  a  ruin  which  they  call  La  Lanterna. 

Having  rested  to  cool  ourselves,  we  descended 
to  the  Carthusian  convent,  which  is  beautifully 
situated.  There  is  a  long  range  of  arches,  called 
by  our  guide  "  the  shops  of  the  ancients."  Caper 
bushes,  now  in  lîower,  grew  plentifully  upon  them. 
There  are  the  remains,  also,  of  another  magnificent 
palace  of  Tiberius  Cassar,  and  there  seems  to  have 
been  a  theatre  near  it.  We  dined  in  a  village, 
then  rowed  off  to  Massa,  coasting  round  the  cape, 
and  in  raptures  at  every  new  landscape  which 
opened  at  each  turn  of  the  promontories.  No 
painter  can  imagine  a  richer  prospect  than  that 
of  the  woody  sloping  shore  of  Massa,  with  its 
convents  peeping  up  through  the  woods,  with  such 
a  variety  of  verdure  as  render  the  tints  superla- 
tively mellow  and  pleasing  to  the  eye.  We  passed 
by  Sorrento,  Castell'  a  mare,  and  returned  by 
moonlight,  enjoying  a  delicious  evening,  and  still 
sea,  with  the  animating  prospect  of  the  lights  of 
Naples. 

June  lofh. 

The  weather  is  grown  extremely  hot,  but  the 
country  is  in  high  beauty,  refreshed  by  a  heavy 
rain.     The  walnut  trees  are  good  shelter,   and  the 

ID — 2 


148  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

pomegranate  flowers  very  ornamental  to  the  road; 
the  sirocco  wind  is  oppressive.  We  dined  at 
Portici,  at  the  Maggiordomo's,  and  afterwards  saw 
the  King  draw  up  a  detachment  of  the  cadets, 
Lipariotes  and  chasseurs,  and  hold  a  council  of 
war,  like  a  child  playing  à  la  madame. 

At  six  His  Majesty  marched  into  the  Boschetto, 
where  we  followed  him.  The  advanced  guards, 
his  new  Cacciatore,  attacked  and  drove  away  the 
enemy's  light  troops;  and  after  several  skirmishes 
between  the  different  corps,  the  defenders  were 
obliged  to  retire  into  the  castle;  the  besiegers 
then  attacked  and  took  by  escalade  a  house  in 
the  woods. 

At  eight  o'clock  the  company  came  down  to 
the  Pallone,  where  a  large  vestibule  or  card-room 
was  erected  for  the  occasion,  at  one  end  of  which 
was  a  very  grand  theatre,  at  the  other  an  immense 
ball-room.  Though  run  up  in  such  a  hurry,  and 
slightly  built,  they  are  exceedingly  elegant  and  well 
proportioned.  We  had  a  French  play,  after  which 
we  all  adjourned  to  the  card-room  to  take  refresh- 
ments, and  from  thence  to  the  ball.  About  twelve 
the  King  and  Queen  retired,  and  soon  after  the 
assembly  broke  up,  walking  to  their  coaches  by  the 
light  of  a  charming  illumination,  through  the  wood 
and   large   gardens,  where  the  fountains   formed   a 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I49 

pleasing  decoration.  The  presence  of  the  Sovereigns 
in  these  parties,  instead  of  causing  any  formality, 
seems  to  make  everything  more  jovial  and  merry. 

Next  evening  the  ball  was  repeated,  and  many 
more  English  were  invited.  Mr.  Spence  and  Miss 
Snow,*  by  their  furious  dancing,  entertained  the 
King  prodigiously;  he  was  in  roars  of  laughter, 
bravoed,  clapped  his  hands,  and  encouraged  them 
to  skip  and  jump  about.  Each  of  them  was 
conscious  how  much  the  other  was  laughed  at, 
and  took  care  to  tell  it  to  all  the  company,  with- 
out suspecting  that  their  own  figure  and  perform- 
ance could  be  the  object  of  merriment.  There  was 
an  Italian  play,  great  stuff. 

The  King  continues  to  divert  himself  with  his 
camp,  pushing  on  trenches,  besieging,  &c.,  till  the 
cadets  and  Lipariotes  have  quarrelled  in  good 
earnest,  and  began  doing  mischief  to  each  other. 
One  of  the  latter  was  very  dangerously  wounded  by 
being  fired  at  too  near.  Whilst  the  villeggiatura 
was  acting,  a  bomb  was  thrown  into  the  castle, 
among  the  company. 

The  Queen  is  exceedingly  prodigal.  At  the  birth 
of  her  son,  the  king  gave  her  100,000  ducats,  which 
she  squandered  away  in  a  twelvemonth,  besides  her 

I  This  lady  was  so  fat  that  she  was  called  "  Double 
Stout." 


150  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

allowance,  which  is  50,000.  It  is  universally  the 
custom  at  Naples  for  the  husband  to  give  his  wife, 
on  her  lying-in,  one  hundred  ounces,  and  the  god- 
father is  at  all  the  expense  of  the  christening.  In 
Russia,  whoever  visits  a  lady  in  the  straw,  must 
slip  a  piece  of  gold  under  her  pillow. 

The  common  people  here  are  not  very  gallant  ; 
one  never  sees  any  flirtations  going  on  among  them. 
The  fair  is  a  gingerbread  representation  in  the  Largo 
Castello,  within  a  narrow  semicircle  ;  a  great  deal 
of  board-work  painted  with  evergreens,  and  lanterns 
hung  about,  which  give  a  dim  light.  At  noon  all  the 
tents  are  let  down,  and  all  the  world  is  asleep.  In 
the  evening,  till  eleven  or  twelve,  the  populace  crowd 
hither  to  saunter,  and  then  retiring  to  rest,  leave  the 
scene  clear  for  people  of  quality,  who  take  possession 
of  it  till  one.  The  fashionable  drive  on  Sundays  in 
summer  is  along  the  Chiaia  to  Posilipo  ;  there  are 
generally  fireworks  at  the  Carmes. 

Mr.  Spence  has  made  quite  a  conquest  of  the 
King  by  his  ridiculous  dancing,  which  I  suppose  the 
King  takes  for  buffoonery.  He  has  him  to  play  at 
tennis  with  him,  and  they  are  as  great  as  inkle- 
weavers. 

Count  Pennicolto,  a  Polish  general,  has  come 
to  beg  I  will  be  security  for  him  for  three  hundred 
ounces  1     A  modest  request  from  an  almost  perfect 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I5I 

stranger.  He  says  he  is  sent  here  as  agent  from  the 
King  of  Poland,  to  recover  principal  and  interest 
from  the  crown  of  Naples  for  a  large  sum  lent  upon 
Naples  to  Philip  IL  in  1588,  by  Queen  Bona  Sfortia, 
Queen  of  Poland.  The  Elector  Palatine  has  received 
one  half,  and  the  House  of  Condé  pretends  to  the 
other,  but  Poland  puts  in  a  juster  claim;  ça  m'est 
bien  égal. 

There  is  a  Mrs.  Hart  here,  who  was  a  nun  at 
Milan  ;  she  is  of  the  Pietra  family,  and  eloped  with 
an  Englishman  :  she  threw  herself  at  Queen  Caro- 
line's feet,  to  get  the  Pope's  pardon  for  her  and  a 
release  from  her  vows. 

The  Duke  d'Ayen  and  the  Tessés  are  just 
arrived  in  a  French  frigate. 


July  20th. 

I  embarked  some  days  ago  for  Ischia,  with 
Pelham  and  Spence,  to  dine  with  Prince  Franca- 
villa,  who  has  a  villa  there.  Just  above  it  are  the 
stufas  or  vapour  baths,  the  smell  of  which  is  very 
powerful  even  to  those  who  walk  in  the  road  below. 
Myrtles  in  full  blossom  are  abundant,  and  number- 
less flowers  perfumed  the  air  ;  a  small  honeysuckle  in 
particular,  sweeter  than  anything  I  ever  smelt. 

The  air  is  now  so  hot,  that  going  out  of  a  room 
at  Prince  Francavilla's  to  the  window,  it  struck  one 


152  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

all  of  a  sudden  like  stepping  into  the  steam  of  an 
oven  ;  but  I  cannot  say  that  I  have  felt  or  seen  any 
one  feel  any  bad  effects  of  lassitude  or  faintness 
from  the  heat. 

We  came  away  at  seven,  and  arrived  at  Naples 
about  twelve,  by  the  mildest  moonshiny  night  imagi- 
nable, with  just  a  breeze  to  keep  us  going,  whilst 
we  and  most  of  the  crew  lay  down  to  rest.  It  was 
altogether  a  most  pleasant  evening,  with  a  refreshing 
breeze  to  allay  the  fury  of  the  lion,^  which  now  rages. 
In  addition  to  our  party  at  the  Prince's,  we  there 
met  and  made  acquaintance  with  the  Abbé  Galiani, 
one  of  the  beaux  esprits  of  Madame  du  Deffand's  and 
Madame  Geoffrin's  society,  an  extremely  clever  and 
witty  man,  and  an  author.^ 

There  have  been  horse  races  at  Portici,  and 
grand  fireworks  at  the  palace,  in  honour  of  St. 
Anthony  ;  then  a  ball. 

Figs  and  melons  are  in  abundance  here  ;  filberts 
are  supposed  to  be  aborigines  of  this  country.  They 
have  no  nuts  like  our  long-skinned  filberts,  but  all  of 
the  Spanish  kind.  Turkey  wheat  is  forbidden  to  be 
sold  in  the  streets  of  Naples,  but  the  police  is  so  in- 
efficient that  it  is  sold  at  every  corner. 

1  The  Lion,  or  Sol  Leone,  the  name  given  to  the  dog-days. 

2  The  Abbé    Galiani  was  one   of  the  clique  of   French 
philosophers  of  Voltaire's  and  d'Alembert's  school. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I53 

From  the  experience  I  have  acquired  from  the 
quarrels  and  adventures  of  our  servants  and  neigh- 
bours, I  conclude  there  is  not  such  another  race  of 
rogues  as  the  common  people  of  Naples.* 

A  mariner  died  the  other  day  in  a  house  oppo- 
site my  windows,  and  the  gesticulations  of  the 
widow  were  truly  ludicrous.  She  tore  her  hair  by 
handfuls,  and  yelled  horribly  ;  but  when  her  step-son 
came  to  seize  upon  her  late  husband's  effects,  she 
flew  at  him  like  a  fury,  and  began  fighting.  She 
opposed  the  body's  being  removed  to  be  buried,  and 
afterwards  threw  herself  fainting  upon  the  window, 
with  her  daughters  all  tearing  their  hair,  scratch- 
ing their  cheeks,  &c.  This  is  the  custom  of  the 
country,  and  is  done  without  the  necessity  of 
feeling  any  real  grief. 

In  Calabria  widows  are  forced  to  scream  and 
roar,  and  tear  their  hair  for  grief;  but  the  rich 
people  hire  women  to  perform  these  grimaces  for 
them. 

I  have  observed  that  the  people  of  Naples 
never  pay  any  court  to  the  women  in  public,  and 
never  seem  to  sit  making  love  to  them,  or  ap- 
pear fonder  of  one  girl  than  another. 

In  the   Guardia  del  Corpo  (bodyguards)  none 

I  This,  although  in  contradiction  of  Mr.  Swinburne's 
previous  praises  of  the  Neapolitans,  is  more  near  the  truth. 


154  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

but  young  men  nobly  born  are  admitted  without 
very  great  probation,  and  those  of  great  houses 
are  soon  advanced  from  the  rank  of  cadet  to  that 
of  officers  in  their  own  troop.  Those  of  inferior 
birth  are  slow  in  getting  forward;  and,  as  in  each 
regiment  there  is  a  company,  a  lieutenant,  and  a 
pair  of  colours  allotted  to  the  Guardia  del  Corpo, 
they  are  placed  out  as  the  vacancies  happen. 
Among  them  is  a  very  handsome  young  man, 
the  son  of  a  valet  de  chambre  (which  kind  of  ser- 
vitude is  the  greatest  bar  that  can  be  thrown  in 
a  man's  way  who  wishes  to  enter  the  service)  ; 
yet,  by  interest,  and  particularly  that  of  the  Abbé 
GaHani,  who  is  his  real  father,  he  was  admitted 
and  kept  his  ground.  He  is  now  the  cecisbeo 
of  the  Marchioness  de  la  Sambuca,  and,  they  say, 
patronised  by  the  Queen  herself. 

The  King's  Volontari  della  Marina,  or  Li- 
pariotes,  are  a  most  complete  and  handsome 
regiment,  commanded  by  all  the  young  men  of  the 
highest  rank  at  Court.  The  uniform  is  green,  Hned 
and  cuffed  with  scarlet,  and  yellow  buttons.  The 
soldiers  perform  their  evolutions  wonderfully  well. 
The  King  has  been  their  major,  and  takes  infinite 
pains  with  them.  He  always  wears  their  regi- 
mentals. All  summer  they  row  his  galliots,  and 
in    the    winter    follow    him    out    shooting.      I    am 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  155 

sorry  to  add  that   this    brilliant   set   of  soldiers   is 

composed  of  the  most   abandoned  wretches   under 

the    sun.       Scarce    one    but    has    several    murders 

upon    his   head,   and   I   do   not    suppose    all   these 

rascals   together   would    stand   the   charge    of   one 

company  of  resolute,   cool  grenadiers. 

The  Queen  is  very  superstitious,  and  is  always 

going    to    some    church    or    saint,    and    now    has 

chosen   for  the    godfather  of  the   child   she    is    in 

expectation    of,    the    poorest   pezzente    or    almsman 

of  San  Gennaro,  one  of  those  who  have  their  feet 

washed  on   Maundy  Thursday,  and  carry  the  dead 

poor  to  their  graves  ;  and  this  is  out  of  devotion  ! 

It    is   a   custom   in    use    with    many   of  the   ladies 

here.     They    often   have   no  godmothers   for    their 

children. 

August  20th, 

I  have  been  walking  to  the  end  of  Posilipo, 
and  enjoying  something  of  a  cool  day.  The  King 
of  Spain  intended  carrying  on  that  magnificent 
road,  taken  from  the  sea,  and  built  with  immense 
blocks  of  lava,  brought  firom  near  Puzzuoli.  It 
would  have  crossed  the  hill  in  a  zigzag  line,  and 
been  a  most  noble  work,  saving  the  disagreeable 
necessity  of  going  through  the  grotto.  His  con- 
fessor, a  capuchin,  was  the  director  and  supervisor 
of  this  work.     But  the   present    King,   who   in   all 


156  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

probability  will  not  leave  one  monument  of  his 
reign  behind  him,  has  never  thought  of  going  on 
with  it.  It  was  his  father  who  built  Caserta,  the 
aqueduct,  the  great  hospital,  the  palace  of  Portici, 
made  the  roads  to  Bovino  and  Evoli,  dug  out 
Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  and  constructed  the 
whole  Strada  Nuova  and  the  Molo  at  Naples. 

Paesiello's  music  is  wretchedly  sung  at  the 
opera,  and  the  dancers  are  bad,  except  Le  Picq, 
who  teaches  the  young  Princes.  We  had  a  bril- 
liant gala  at  Court  last  week  for  the  Queen's 
birthday. 

The  quantity  of  water-melons  consumed  in 
Naples  is  prodigious.  The  greatest  part  is  sold 
in  the  cellars  or  grottos  under  the  streets.  One 
shop  under  the  Porta  di  Chiaia  sells  five  hundred 
a  day,  and  six  hundred  on  holidays. 

I  went  with  Prince  Butera  to  see  the  plans 
of  Brindini  at  Pigonati's,  which  are  making  out 
for  the  King.  It  appears  that  a  statue  of  His 
Majesty  is  to  be  erected  on  a  point  of  land  which 
is  to  be  changed  into  an  island  by  a  new  cut 
(to  be  converted  into  an  oyster-bed),  and  called 
Isola  di  San  Ferdinando — a  most  ridiculous  idea. 
The  works  of  Brindini  have  already  cost  26,000 
ducats. 

The    other    night,    at    a    ball    at    Posilipo,   the 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  1 57 

Queen  was  taken  ill  and  retired,  and,  not  long 
after,  the  roar  of  the  cannon  announced  the  birth 
of  a  Prince.  He  has  since  been  christened  by  the 
innumerable  names  of  Francis,  Louis,  Januarius, 
Jean  Baptiste,  Pasquale,  Balthazar,  Melchior,  Gas- 
par,  &c.,  &c.  The  Queen  had  a  new  doctor,  Mr. 
Pears,  called  in,  in  preference  to  Viventor,  the 
established  one,  which  has  caused  a  great  sensa- 
tion. Viventor  is  the  son  of  a  practitioner  of  Nola, 
himself  an  ignorant  pretender  to  physic,  and  only 
constituted  doctor  to  the  Queen's  household  from 
having  married  her  favourite  maid,  as  everything 
is  done  by  favour  here.  By  making  himself  a  jack- 
of-all-trades,  and  playing  with  the  King,  he  obtained 
an  almost  uncontrolled  power  in  all  departments, 
directed  the  marine  department,  modelled  the  army, 
and,  like  a  second  Struensee,  disposed  of  everything 
with  the  greatest  annoyance  and  brutality.  He 
had  a  scheme  for  improving  the  naval  affairs,  and 
subduing  the  Algerines;  but  the  loss  of  the  ships 
he  expected  success  from,  has  lessened  his  conse- 
quence; and  now  the  Queen,  having  thrown  off 
her  slavery  to  his  will,  has  done  his  business,  to 
the  great  joy  of  all  Naples. 

When  a  person  here  is  in  a  brown  study,  or 
rêvant  à  la  suisse,  they  say  he  is  fishing  for  "  Car- 
melachi,"  which  are  manches  de  couteau,  or  razor 


158  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

fish,  taken  in  a  very  sedate  manner;  viz.,  a  man 
walks  upright  into  the  sea,  and  seems  quite  lost 
in  thought,  till  he  feels  something  pricking  about 
his  feet  ;  then  he  darts  down,  and  catches  hold 
of  the  fish. 

There  are  four  families  here  that  came  from 
Arragon,  and  settled  in  the  kingdom  of  Naples, 
viz.,  Carolina,  Count  d'Acerra  ;  Gucoaro,  Duke  of 
Novino  ;  Cavallanes,  Marquis  of  Santo  Mario  ;  and 
Count  d'Avilos.  They  walk  together  in  the  pro- 
cession of  the  octave  of  Corpus  Christi,  to  visit  the 
great  altar. 

The  dissipation  of  the  Neapolitans  is  really 
disgusting.  All  ranks  seem  to  live  only  for  tawdry 
show  and  idleness.  Every  day  there  are  fireworks 
and  music,  with  some  devotional  procession  or 
another;  these  are  so  common  that  nobody 
minds  them.  In  one  firework,  let  off  before 
some  Madonna,  was  a  paper  statue  of  a  doctor 
giving  a  lavement  of  squibs  to  Pulchineilo.^ 

Expense    and    prodigality   are   at   their    height 

I  In  the  ancient  part  of  the  city  of  Antwerp,  said  to 
have  been  built  by  the  Romans,  there  for  a  long  time  existed 
a  small  image  of  the  god  Priapus.  It  was  suggested  by  one 
of  the  town  council  that  this  pagan  emblem  ought  to  be 
effaced,  and  the  niche,  in  which  it  stood,  purified  by  some 
Christian  image.  The  proposition  was  carried,  and  a  small 
statue  of  the  Virgin,  at  this  hour,  occupies  the  place  of  ti;e 
Roman  effigy. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  15g 

here.  The  rich  are  oppressed  with  debts  ;  the 
working  people  always  spend  the  produce  of  their 
labour  before  they  have  received  it  ;  and  from  the 
King  to  the  lazzaroni  there  is  not  such  a  nation  of 
idle,  irregular  fellows  in  the  world. 

The  Queen  had  three  young  ladies  praying  for 
her  safe  delivery,  who  are  now  to  be  portioned  off 
as  wives  or  nuns.  When  one  of  her  children  was 
ill  of  a  swelled  face,  she  sent  it  regularly  to  kiss 
an  image  of  St.  Jago,  in  one  of  the  churches. 

The  women  here  seem  to  give  avarice  and 
vanity  the  first  rank  among  their  passions.  Forty 
years  ago  there  were  not  ten  women  at  Naples 
who  knew  what  a  cap  was  ;  but  luxury  has  much 
increased  since  that  time,  and  now  the  ladies  are 
all  à  la  française. 

The  politics  of  this  Court  are  very  strange, 
and,  in  compliance  with  the  bigotry  of  His  Most 
Catholic  Majesty,  Tanucci's  projects  of  under- 
mining the  power  of  the  Church  are  quite  knocked 
on  the  head.  The  Hackney  has  just  been  pre- 
sented to  the  Pope,  with  more  than  common 
pomp,  though  His  Holiness  was  informed  last 
year  that  this  humiliating  ceremony  would  never 
be  performed  again.^ 

I  The  establishment  of  the  tribute,  of  which  the  presen- 
tation of  the  palfrey  was  the  emblem,  dated  from  the  epoch 


l6o  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

Last  year  the  King  named  to  the  bishopric  of 
Aquila  the  Professor  of  Common  Law  in  the  Uni- 
versity of  Naples,  who  immediately  wrote  a  letter 
to  the  tribunal  and  magistrates  of  that  city, 
notifying  his  nomination,  and  descanting  upon 
the  happiness  of  Aquila  in  being  under  the  sole 
command  of  the  King,  free  from  all  interference 
of  the  Court  of  Rome.  The  Pope  was  outrageous 
at  this,  and  refused  to  grant  the  bulls,  or  to  con- 
secrate the  recipient.  At  last  the  latter  was  forced 
to  recant,  went  to  Rome,  and  was  consecrated. 
In  the  bulls,  the  Pope  talks  of  the  plenitude  of 
his  power,  of  his  bishops  in  his  city  of  Aquila,  in 
his  fief  the  kingdom  of  Naples.  When  Sambuca 
expostulated  with  the  King  on  the  disgraceful 
tribute  of  the  haquenécy  Ferdinand  shrugged  up  his 
shoulders,  and  said  he  should  have  no  objections 
to  refuse  it,  "  ma  bisogna  far  acconsentir  il  Papa." 

The  King  spends  in  his  household  about  six 
hundred  thousand  ducats  yearly,  and  the  annual 
sums  paid  for  masses  said  in  this  city  alone 
amounts  to  as  much  more. 

I  have  been  to  see  the  drawing  of  the  lottery, 


of  the  Norman  Kings,  who  thereby  acknowledged  the  right  or 
sovereignty  of  the  Pope  to  the  kingdom  of  Naples.  This 
custom  was  aboUshed  at  the  period  of  the  French  invasion, 
and  has  not  been  re-estabUshed. 


CHARLES    IV,    KING    OF    SPAIN 
ABDICATED   IN  MARCH,  i8oS 


After  a  painting  by  Don  Francisco  Goya  y 

Liicientes,  in  the  Musée  du  Prado, 

Madrid 


■&<>h^t.^t  1.S99  ■U.-SM 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  l6l 

in  the  great  hall  of  the  Vicaria.  Five  numbers 
were  extracted  by  a  little  boy,  after  the  boxes  had 
been  shaken  by  some  lazzaroni. 

There  is  no  place  where  music  seems  to  be 
in  less  esteem  than  Naples,  or  where  so  little  is 
heard  ;  no  one  ever  attends  to  it,  even  from  the 
finest  singers  and  performers,  and  even  the  com- 
mon people  appear  utter  strangers  to  it.  There 
is  no  national  music,  and,  except  a  few  draw- 
ling kind  of  sequadillas,  probably  bequeathed  to 
them  by  the  Spaniards,  you  never  hear  any  such 
things  as  vielles,  organs,  guitars,  &c.,  in  the 
streets. 

All  the  ladies  of  quality  here,  let  the  circum- 
stances of  their  husbands  be  what  they  will,  have 
a  hundred  ducats  per  month  for  pin-money,  and  no 
more.  At  the  birth  of  every  child,  the  husband 
makes  her  a  present  of  one  hundred  ounces, 
and  many  other  things  of  value,  according  to  her 
fortune. 

The  King,  it  is  said,  takes  a  boat  at  mid- 
night, or  later,  to  go  to  his  rendezvous  on  the 
coast  of  Portici.  The  Lucciana's  husband  has 
been  absent  for  many  weeks,  at  his  country  house 
near  Aversa. 

Madame  Santo  Marco,  one  of  the  beauties  of 
Naples,   laid    a   scheme,   about   two  years  ago,  for 

VOL.    I  XX 


1 63  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

making  a  conquest  of  the  King,  at  Caserta,  which 
succeeded  ;  but  the  Queen  being  apprised  of  it, 
gave  His  Majesty  such  a  lecture  as  frightened  him 
out  of  his  wits,  and  brought  him  back  to  Naples 
upon  his  knees.  She  forgave  him,  on  his  promising 
never  to  offend  again,  to  which  he  willingly  agreed. 
The  marchesa  was  exiled,  and  the  Prince  de  la 
Rocca,  one  of  the  principal  actors,  was  wise  enough 
to  retire  for  two  years  to  his  estate,  where  he  re- 
ceived the  red  riband  of  San  Gennaro,  which  the 
King  promised  him  when  he  was  his  confidante  in 
the  affair.  On  his  return  to  Court,  he  waited  on 
Their  Majesties  to  thank  them  for  it,  and  was  most 
graciously  received  by  both  ;  but  as  soon  as  the 
King  returned  to  the  inner  apartments,  he  giddily 
or  maliciously  told  the  Queen  that  La  Rocca,  to 
whom  she  was  so  civil,  had  been  the  agent  in  the 
San  Marco  business.  "  You  have  told  me  too  late," 
said  the  Queen. 

The  Abbé  Galiani  had,  the  other  day,  a  religious 
dispute  with  some  Italian  gentlemen,  in  which  he 
attempted  to  prove  to  them  that  the  Gospel  of  St. 
Mark  was  an  abstract  of  St.  Matthew.  After  much 
wrangling  and  discussion,  one  of  the  company 
proposed  to  change  the  subject,  and  to  talk  of  the 
pretty  women  of  Naples  ;  among  others  of  Madame 
Santo    Marco.      "  Eh  ?  "    said    the    Abbé,    "  à   che 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  1 63 

serve  ?  non  vi  ho  detto  gia  venti  volte  che  Santo 
Marco  é  Tepitome  di  San  Matteo  ?  "  * 

We  see  the  Abbé  often,  and  he  enlivens  our 
conversation  by  his  wit.  He  has  explained  some 
passages  of  Horace  with  great  ingenuity,  and  means 
to  publish  a  new  edition,  with  his  observations. 
The  Marquis  Tanucci  was  so  envious  of  all  men 
of  any  kind  of  knowledge,  that  he  did  his  utmost 
to  keep  them  down,  and  never  liked  Galiani  after 
he  had  heard  King  Charles  say  that  he  had  met 
him  in  his  library,  and  found  him  excessively 
clever  and  knowing  upon  all  the  subjects  he  had 
questioned  him  upon. 


September  Sth, 
The  Chiaia  was  crowded  by  daybreak  with  a 
gay  populace,  in  very  splendid  holiday  clothes  and 
characteristic  national  finery,  moving  from  Naples 
to  its  environs  to  pay  homage  to  the  Madonna  di  pie 
di  Grotta.  The  troops  in  garrison  pitched  their  tents 
and  repaired  to  their  posts,  lining  all  the  Chiaia  to- 
wards the  sea.  The  picture  was  incomparable.  All 
the  nobility,  in  gala  coaches,  passed  along  to  enjoy 
the  sight,  and  to  be  seen  themselves.  Great  dinners 
were  given  at  all  the  houses  on  the  line.     The  Count 

I  San  Matteo  is  the  portion  of  the  city  principally  in- 
habited by  women  of  bad  character  ;  hence  the  Abbe's  bitter 
sarcasm. 

II — 2 


164  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

de  Chatenay  and  Abbé  Galiani  dined  with  us.  At 
five  the  King  passed  in  his  state-coach,  with  twenty- 
two  carriages  preceding  or  following  him  ;  the  spec- 
tacle was  brilliant. 

The  origin  of  this  ceremony  is  the  supposed 
miracle  of  the  blessed  Virgin,  to  three  or  four  old 
women  and  monks,  recommending  a  church  to  be 
built  to  her  honour,  where  her  image  was  stuck  up 
against  the  wall  ;  and  as  the  Viceroy,  Don  Pedro  di 
Toledo,  was  very  fond  of  Puzzuoli,  having  already 
a  country-house  opposite  the  spot,  the  cunning 
Jesuits  fixed  the  scene  of  this  mummery  in  that 
quarter;  which  induced  the  viceroy  to  build  the 
church,  and  to  institute  the  procession,  as  he  was 
delighted  to  find  his  favourite  residence  likely  to 
become  a  place  of  resort. 

The  small-pox  has  declared  itself  on  the  fool 
Don  Philip,  the  King's  elder  brother,  and  the  whole 
Court  is  in  alarm.  There  seemed  to  be  great  de- 
bates about  what  was  to  be  done  ;  at  last  it  was 
arranged  for  the  royal  family  (except  the  sick  man) 
to  set  out  for  Santa  Lucia,  to  the  great  vexation  of 
all  Naples  ;  with,  however,  the  consoling  promise 
of  feasts  and  rejoicings  on  their  return,  at  the  end 
of  forty  days.  The  Queen  has  invited  Vincenzo 
Montalto,  brother  of  the  Duke  of  Tragnito,  to  go 
with  her  to  Santa  Lucia. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  165 

There  are  many  Monache  di  casa  in  Naples  who 
make  vows,  but  live  at  home,  and  have  not  the  best 
reputations  ;  also  the  nuns  of  San  Vicenzo,  who  are 
a  kind  of  Magdalens.  They  go  about  the  streets 
begging,  with  their  faces  covered.  One  of  them,  the 
other  day,  came  in  a  hurry  up  to  a  groom-boy,  at 
the  Duke  of  Valentino's  stable  door,  and  begged  he 
would  give  her  leave  to  rest  herself  in  the  stable  for 
a  short  time,  feeling  very  ill  from  the  heat.  The 
boy  consented,  and  allowed  her  to  rest  within  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  She  then  came  out,  thanked 
him,  and  went  her  way.  Some  time  after,  the  lad, 
going  in  to  dress  his  horses,  heard  a  squeaking 
under  the  manger,  and  found  the  nun  had  left 
them  a  fine  chopping  boy. 

Neither  men  nor  women  walk  here,  either  in 
town  or  country,  except  a  little  at  night  ;  they 
pass  most  of  their  time  at  the  Bassette  table. 

The  "Cavalli  di  razzi,"  especially  of  the  plains, 
are  all  weak,  and  unable  to  perform  other  work 
than  parading  upon  the  pavement.  They  are  al- 
ways being  bled  and  physicked.  Indeed,  the  air 
here  is  the  greatest  generator  of  blood  imaginable. 
The  horses  of  the  mountains  are  stout  and  hardy. 

The  council  for  managing  the  affairs  of  the 
Jesuits  having  refused  to  let  the  old  tenant  at 
Casteir  a  mare  continue,  as  he  would  not  pay  an 


l66  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

increased  rent,  the  fellow  put  himself  in  the  King's 
way,  and  tendered  him  the  quarter's  rent.  The 
King  was  so  delighted  at  receiving  what  he  called 
the  first  money  of  the  Jesuits  he  had  even  seen, 
that  he  gave  the  farmer  a  fresh  lease,  on  condi- 
tion that  he  always  brought  him  the  money  in 
gold. 

October  ^rd. 

The  Infante  Don  Philip,  an  idiot,  died  upon 
the  17th  instant,  and  four  days  after  his  body 
was  carried  in  a  coach,  preceded  by  twenty-four 
servants  with  flambeaux,  and  the  judge  of  the 
Court  on  horseback,  to  Santa  Chiara,  to  be  ex- 
posed on  a  catafalqua.  The  troops  lined  the 
road.  The  catafalqua  had  this  inscription  on  it  : 
"  Raptus  est,  mutant  ne  malitiâ  intellectum  ejus." 

All  is  in  gala,  and  there  are  no  signs  of  a 
funeral  ceremony.  The  Queen  has  returned,  and 
is  giving  a  conversazione  at  the  Belvedera.^ 

We  have  been  on  a  villeggiatura  to  Vietri, 
where  Galiani  joined  our  party.  He  has  many 
amusing  stories  and  anecdotes.  Here  are  a  few  of 
them  :    A  Gascon   walking   one   sharp,    frosty   day, 

I  San  Vietri  was  formerly  called  Marciana,  because 
it  was  part  of  the  estate  given  by  Trajan  to  his  sister. 
I  am  told  a  bishop  of  La  Cava  broke  and  buried  all  the 
statues  found  there.  The  &iar's  convent  was  a  temple 
called   Votares. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  167 

clad  in  a  light  summer  silk,  a  friend  coming  up 
asked  him  how  he  could  do  with  such  a  coat  in 
such  a  bitter  cold  day.  "  Cadedis  !  comment  je 
fais  ?  "  replied  the  other  ;   "Eh  !  je  gèle." 

The  Salernitans  and  Cavaccioli  hate  each 
other  mortally.  Two  of  the  former  were  quarrel- 
ling, and  one  called  the  other  a  filthy  Cavacciolo. 
"  No,  no,"  said  the  second,  "  I  am  no  Cavacciolo 
neither — I  am  a  Christian." 

A  Calabrese  beggar  being  ready  to  die  with 
hunger  at  Rome,  as  no  one  gave  him  a  farthing, 
applied  for  advice  to  a  countryman  of  his,  a  beg- 
gar also,  whose  stand  seemed  to  produce  a  com- 
fortable maintenance.  His  friend  told  him  he  must 
use  a  little  art,  and,  if  he  did  not  excite  compassion, 
he  must  do  as  he  did — put  on  a  kind  of  Jewish 
habit,  and  pretend  to  be  a  "povero  Ebreo  fatto 
Cristiano,"  and  for  that  reason  ejected  from  the 
synagogue.  Approving  of  this  counsel,  the  other 
prepared  his  dress  in  such  a  manner  as  to  have 
a  very  Jewish  appearance.  Thus  accoutred,  and 
sure  of  success,  he  repaired  to  the  corner  of  a 
street  ;  but  in  going  he  totally  forgot  the  word 
**  Ebreo,"  and  attacked  the  compassionate  passen- 
gers with,  "  Fratelli,  la  carita  per  I'amor  di  Dio 
— un  poco  di  limosina  a  un  povero  Calabrese  fatto 
Cristiano."       Although    this     blunder    excited    the 


l68  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

laughter  rather  than  the  pity  of  the  gentry, 
yet  they  could  not  help,  in  the  fulness  of  their 
merriment,  opening  their  purse-strings  to  the 
beggar. 

When  Charles  V,  returned  from  Tunis  he 
travelled  by  land  through  Calabria  and  to  Naples, 
and  did  much  good  by  the  road.  Seeing  Calabria 
without  corn,  and  being  told  it  was  too  mountain- 
ous and  too  cold  for  it  to  ripen,  he  ordered  rye- 
seed  to  be  brought  from  Germany.  It  succeeds 
well,  and  is  now  universal  over  these  parts,  where 
it  is  known  by  the  name  of  "  Germano."  At  La 
Cava,  the  town  council  met  to  consider  what  pre- 
sent they  should  give  the  Emperor.  Some  were 
for  pine-apples,  the  kernels  of  which  are  of  a  vast 
size  ;  but  the  majority  carried  it  in  favour  of  a 
kind  of  fig,  which  they  cover  with  mats  in  winter, 
and  in  March  (the  time  of  the  Emperor's  passing) 
the  fruit  is  very  ripe  and  delicious  eating.  The 
Emperor  received  the  deputies  very  graciously, 
and  expressing  great  surprise  at  the  fineness  of 
the  fruit  at  that  season  of  the  year,  inquired 
whether  they  could  preserve  any  quantity  of  them, 
and  whether  they  were  in  abundance.  **  Oh  !  " 
said  the  wise  mayor,  "we  have  such  plenty  that 
we  give  them  to  our  hogs."  "  What,"  said 
Charles,  '*  to  your  hogs  ?— then  take  your  figs  back 


COURTS     Oif     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  169 

again  ;  "  and,  so  saying,  he  flung  a  ripe  one  full 
in  the  face  of  the  orator.  The  courtiers  following 
the  example  of  their  Sovereign,  the  poor  deputies 
had  their  faces  all  besmeared  and  their  eyes 
bunded  up  with  the  fruit.  As  they  were  returning 
from  the  audience,  one  of  these  sapient  senators, 
taking  the  whole  to  be  part  of  the  ceremonial 
of  a  reception  by  an  Emperor,  observed  to  his 
brethren  how  lucky  it  was  they  had  carried  the 
point  in  favour  of  figs;  for,  had  they  presented 
pine-apples,  they  would  undoubtedly  have  had 
their  brains  knocked  out. 

About  the  period  of  the  revival  of  letters,  the 
Itahans  were  upon  the  point  of  returning  to  pagan- 
ism. The  passion  for  Virgil  grew  to  such  a  pitch, 
that  the  Holy  See  thought  it  necessary  to  interpose. 
In  order,  therefore,  to  take  that  author  out  of  the 
hands  of  young  persons,  they  prevailed  upon  Vida 
and  Sannazzaro  to  compose  their  sacred  poems, 
**  Christiados,"  &c.,  to  supply  the  place  of  the  Latin 
poet  whose  work  was  so  much  idolized.'^ 

I  Of  Vida,  little  is  known;  but  James  Sannazar,  who  was 
bom  at  Naples  in  1458,  has  left  behind  him  a  distinguished 
reputation.  His  most  celebrated  productions  are  his  "  Arca- 
dia," his  "  De  partu  Virginis  "  (translated  into  French  under 
the  title  of  "  Couches  sacrées  de  la  Vierge  "),  and  his  '•  SaUces 
et  lamentatio  de  morte  Christi."  The  latter  obtained  for  its 
author  the  title  of  the  "  Christian  Virgil."  Sannazar,  who 
was  very  wealthy,  died  in  1530,  and  was  buried  in  a  magnifi- 


170  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Galiani  has  a  plan  of  having  the  whole  kingdom 
ot  Naples  represented  in  relievo,  with  cork,  by  the 
makers  of  the  Presepio. 

He  tells  me  St.  Foix  discovered,  by  the  papers 
in  the  French  Secretary  of  State's  office,  that  the 
Masque  de  fer  y  mentioned  by  Voltaire,  was  the  Duke 
of  Monmouth,  supposed  to  have  been  beheaded  on 
Tower  Hill,  but  in  reality  brought  to  the  Bastille 
after  the  fall  of  the  Stuarts.  James  had  promised 
his  brother  Charles,  upon  his  sacrificing  Monmouth 
to  him,  by  refusing  to  acknowledge  his  marriage 
with  Lucy  "Waters,  that  he  would  never  take  away 
his  life.* 

cent  tomb  in  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  del  Parto  at  Naples. 
The  following  distich  was  engraved  upon  his  monument; — 
"  Da  sacro  cineri  flores  :  hic  ille  maroni 
Syncerus  musa  proximus,  ut  tumulo." 
Syncenis  was  the  Latin  name  given  to  him. 

I  St.  Foix,  author  of  "  Ess.  Hist,  sur  Paris,"  &c.,  pre- 
tended, but  did  not  prove,  that  the  unhappy  captive,  known 
as  the  "  Iron  Mask,"  was  the  Duke  of  Monmouth.  In  a  work 
published  at  Amsterdam,  called  "  Mémoires  secrets  pour  ser- 
vir à  l'histoire  de  Perse,"  attributed  to  Voltaire,  as  well  as  in 
the  "  Siècle  de  Louis  XIV.,"  it  is  confidently  affirmed  that 
this  prisoner  was  the  Count  de  Vernandois,  son  of  Madame 
de  la  Vallière  and  Louis  XIV.,  who  was  supposed  to  have 
died  suddenly  whilst  with  the  army  of  Flanders  in  1683. 
Others  again  assert  that  the  prisoner  was  an  illegitimate  son 
of  Anne  of  Austria,  and  consequently  brother  to  Louis  XIV. 
Others  opine  for  the  Duke  de  Beaufort.  But  the  probabilities 
are  that  the  victim  was  the  celebrated  Fouquet,  minister  of 
finance  to  the  dissolute  monarch  who   signed  the  Edict  of 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I71 

The  divers  of  the  Gulf  are  surprising  fellows, 
swimming  in  the  water  with  a  little  basket,  into 
which  they  put  their  fish.  They  dive,  and  remain 
working  and  pulling  the  shell-fish  off  the  rocks,  for 
four  or  even  five  minutes,  with  their  feet  above 
water,  as  I  have  seen  myself  (my  watch  in  my 
hand).  They  gain  sometimes  eight  or  ten  carlini  a 
day  by  their  work;  but  they  die  young,  the  violence 
of  the  exertion  weakening  their  chests. 

The  Neapolitan  citizens,  or  middling  sort  of 
people,  live  very  poorly  as  to  eating,  their  little  in- 
come being  curtailed  by  the  calls  of  show  and  finery. 
When  they  are  invited  to  dinner,  it  is  scarcely  cred- 
ible what  quantities  they  devour.  It  is  the  custom 
to  serve  every  dish,  and  send  it  round,  and  almost 
an  affront  to  ask  anybody  if  he  will  have  any  of  this 
dish.  He  will  answer,  "  Voleté  I  ma  non  sono 
ammalato  I  "  When  strangers  are  invited  to  dine 
with  you,  their  servants  do  not  wait,  but  you  give 
them  two  carlini,  wherewith  to  get  themselves  a 
dinner. 

Lachryma    Christi    is,    methinks,    no  longer   a 

Nantes.  In  speaking  of  the  death  of  the  Count  de  Vernandois, 
it  may  not  be  irrevelant  to  repeat  the  words  of  Madame  de  la 
ValUère,  when  they  announced  this  event  to  her.  She  at  first 
burst  into  tears,  but  recovering  herself,  said,  "C'est  trop 
pleurer  la  mort  d'un  fils  dont  je  n'ai  pas  assez  pleuré  la 
naissance." 


172  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

very  delicious  wine  ;   it  is  strong   and  sound,  with, 
a  burnt,  acrid  taste.* 


November  ^th. 

There  is  to  be  no  more  mourning,  the  King  of 
Spain  having  disapproved  of  it,  which  is  a  rare 
comedy.  There  was  a  grand  gala  at  Court  yester- 
day, to  celebrate  the  fête  of  San  Carlo  Borromeo. 
The  opera  was  Catone. 

We  visited  some  days  ago  the  Spirito  Santo  and 
the  Pellegrini.  The  monks,  when  dead,  are  put 
dressed  into  their  coffins,  which  are  filled  with  tufa  ; 
the  flesh  is  thus  consumed  in  a  few  months.  They 
are  then  taken  out,  and  stuck  up  in  niches,  attired 
in  the  habit  of  the  confraternity,  with  their  names 
and  the  time  of  death  over  them,  and  thus  exposed 
to  public  view.  The  number  of  pilgrims  fed  and 
lodged  at  the  Pellegrini  is  very  great  ;  sometimes 
forty  a  night  going  upon  various  pilgrimages,  to 
St.  Jago  di  Loretto,  St.  Nicola  di  Bari,  &c. 

I  took  a  trip  to  Lake  Agnano,  which  was  beauti- 
ful beyond  expression.     There  were  many  people  on 

I  A  ridiculous  mistake  was  once  committed  by  a  good 
honest  country  squire  of  my  acquaintance,  who  had  received  a 
present  of  some  of  this  wine,  and  neither  understood  its  name, 
nor  whence  it  came.  "  What  say  you  to  a  glass  of  wine  ?  " 
said  he  one  day  to  me  at  dinner?  I  bowed,  and  he  continued, 
"  What  shall  it  be  ?  "  "  Anything."  "  Come,  then,  let  us 
try  some  of  L 's  wine  that  he  bought  at  Christie's  I" 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  1 73 

the  banks,  trying  to  get  a  shot  at  the  wild  deer 
swimming  about  in  the  clear  water,  which  had  no 
appearance  of  fog,  or  noxious  vapour  ;  but  the 
peasant  who  lives  at  the  temple  assured  me  it  was 
very  unhealthy  in  summer  ;  and  his  looks  were  a 
guarantee  for  his  words.  I  saw  some  very  pretty 
kingfishers  skimming  across.  After  admiring  all  the 
charming  effects  of  light  and  shade  on  the  land  and 
water,  and  taking  a  minute  sketch  of  the  temple,  I 
went  back  to  Baia,  and  up  a  narrow  path  over  the 
hills,  and  came  down  to  Lake  Fusaro,  where  the 
King  was  in  a  boat,  shooting  wild  fowl. 

The  other  day  the  King  met  an  old  woman 
near  Caserta,  of  whom  he  bought  a  turkey.  She, 
not  knowing  the  blackguard-looking  fellow  she  was 
with  to  be  the  Sovereign,  accompanied  him  towards 
the  palace  with  his  purchase.  As  soon  as  he  ap- 
peared there,  the  drums  beat,  and  the  guard  turned 
out  ;  upon  which  the  old  woman,  who  knew  the 
signal,  pulled  him  back  and  told  him  to  get  out 
of  the  way,  for  that  lou  pazzo  was  coming,  who 
would  run  over  them  ;  and  that  lou  rey  pazzo  made 
nothing  of  trampling  people  under  his  horses'  feet  ; 
that  he  was  constantly  running  about  instead  of 
minding  his  business,  and  so  everything  went  al 
diavolo.  "There  is  no  justice,"  added  she,  "no 
law;    and    all    things    are   extremely   dear."      The 


174  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

King  then  conducted  her  in,  and  you  may  suppose 
that  she  was  frightened  out  of  her  wits  when  she 
found  out  who  it  was,  by  his  reception  at  the 
gate.  His  Majesty,  who  was  extremely  diverted 
at  her  terror,  made  her  repeat  it  all  to  the  Queen, 
who  gave  her  some  money.^ 

He  never  gives  anything  himself,  but  gets 
everything  to  be  given  by  the  Queen.  One  day, 
however,  he  gave  his  eldest  daughter  an  ounce, 
and  the  child  seemed  so  delighted,  and  hugged 
him  so  much  for  it,  that  the  Queen  could  not 
help  taking  notice  of  it,  and  asking  the  Princess 
why  she  showed  such  extravagant  joy  for  one 
piece,  when  she  had  had  so  many  from  her  upon 
fifty  occasions.  "  Oh,  mamma,"  said  the  girl,  "  but 
this  is  the  first  I  ever  was  able  to  get  out  of  papa  !  " 
The  King  was  quite  affected  and  absolutely  cast 
down  for  some  time  by  this  reproach. 

It  is  said  he  sent  the  Marquis  Pignatelli  with 
a  thousand  ounces  to  the  Duchess  of  Lucciano, 
and  that  Pignatelli  kept  five  hundred  for  himself, 
which  afterwards  came  to  the  King's  knowledge, 
but  he  never  showed  any  resentment. 

Don  Ferdinando  di  Leon,  who  is  a  magistrate, 
fell  in   love   with   the   Marchesa    di    Santo   Marco, 

I  Lou  Pazzo  (the  madcap)  was  the  nickname  given  to 
Ferdinand  by  the  lazzaroni. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  175 

and  lent  her  a  sum  out  of  the  Pièta  to  pay  off 
her  husband's  debts,  notwithstanding  which  piece 
of  generosity  she  always  disliked  him. 

Donna  Teresina  del  Sangro  is  a  merry, 
agreeable  woman,  but  a  sad  thief.  She  has 
played  all  sorts  of  tricks,  pawned  other  people's 
effects,  &c.  She  is  much  in  favour  ;  so  much, 
that  the  King  ensured  her  a  pension  for  thirty 
years,  that  she  might  be  enabled  to  borrow  money 
upon  it. 

Our  friend,  Prince  Francavilla,  was  the  cher 
ami  of  the  late  Queen  Amalia.  His  rise  was  very 
sudden;  from  being  a  neglected  youth,  taken  no 
notice  of,  nor  likely  to  be  connected  at  Court,  he 
became  maggiordomo  to  the  Queen.  He  was  very 
handsome. 

When  any  joyful  event  happens  in  the  royal 
family,  it  is  customary  to  grant  an  indulto  ; — the 
most  unjust  thing  ever  heard  of  in  any  country. 
The  King  orders  all  debtors  for  money  due  to 
particuliers  (individuals)  to  be  set  at  liberty,  but 
those  confined  for  sums  due  to  the  King's  account 
are  detained  ;  so  that  a  fellow  who  is  shut  up  for 
not  paying  debts  owing  to  his  neighbour  is  released, 
whilst  he  who  is  m  debt  to  the  King,  because  that 
man's  failure  has  rendered  him  unable  to  discharge 
the  taxes  imposed  upon  him,  shall   be  detained  to 


I'jS  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

rot  in  prison.  No  creditor  can  arrest  anybody  until 
the  expiration  of  six  months. 

The  curé  of  La  Madonna  di  Fiorentini  is  a 
great  rogue.  He  pretends  he  has  a  miraculous 
Madonna;  and  lately  a  tradesman's  wife,  having 
two  children  ill  of  the  small-pox,  made  an  ex  voto 
to  this  Madonna  of  her  last  gown.  The  two  chil- 
dren died,  and  in  a  furious  passion  she  attacked 
the  curé.  The  affair  seeming  likely  to  entail  dis- 
agreeable consequences,  he  managed  to  have  the 
gowns  restored,  by  means  of  a  bucket  drawn  from 
a  well.  The  woman  was  much  surprised,  and  the 
curé  was  called  in  to  explain  the  miracle.  He  per- 
suaded her  she  had  received  the  greatest  favour 
by  the  children  being  taken  out  of  the  world,  as 
otherwise  they  were  both  destined  to  come  to  the 
gallows. 

Giannone  wrote  his  **Storia  dTtalia"  with  an  eye 
to  the  papal  and  other  ecclesiastical  vexations,  and 
it  has  been  thought  to  have  contributed  to  deliver 
his  nation  from  its  slavish  veneration  and  terror 
for  all  papal  measures.  Abbé  Galiani  has  made 
thereupon  the  following  ingenious  comparison, 
which  I  translate  : — "  Did  you  never  see  a  smoke- 
jack,  with  a  little  man  in  red  working  away,  and 
seemingly  turning  the  wheel,  and  setting  the  whole 
machine   in   motion  ?      Those   that   are   acquainted 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  1 77 

with  the  mechanism  of  the  piece  know  that,  on 
the  contrary,  he  is  carried  away  by  the  force  of 
the  general  motion.  Just  so  when  you  see  an 
author,  or  a  minister,  seemingly  in  a  great  splut- 
tering, and  acting  or  writing  with  virulence  and 
energy,  be  assured  it  is  not  he  that  stimulates  his 
country  ;  it  is  the  general  tendency  of  the  humours 
set  in  motion  that  sets  him  at  work,  and  gives 
him  the  ideas  of  his  subject." 

Victor  Amadeus  was  base  and  mean  enough 
to  have  Giannone  seized  and  confined  for  life,  as 
an  enemy  to  the  Pope. 


November  12th, 


This  day  there  is  a  promotion  of  the  knights 
of  Saint  Januarius.^  It  is  plain  that  Casamanico 
and  Butera  are  in  high  favour,  from  the  number 
of  their  relations  and  friends  included  in  the  list. 

The  old  families  of  Naples,  great  barons  from 
time  immemorial,  are  :  Aqua  Viva,  Dukes  of  Atri, 
now  Counts  of  Conversano,  San  Severino,  Lords 
of  Ringone,  Rufo,  Prince  of  Siglio,  and  Canteleno, 
Toro,  Sango,  Colonna,  and  Orsini,  from  Rome. 
From   the   Seggias   of   Naples   come   the    Caraffas, 


I  Ordin&  di  San  Gennaro.  This  order  was  established, 
in  1738,  by  King  Charles,  upon  his  marriage  with  tho 
Princess  Amaha,   daughter  of  Augustus   III.   of  Poland. 


VOL.    I 


12 


178 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


Capiccis,  Caraccioli,  Pignatelli,  Spinetti,  &c.  The 
papal  families  are  :  Ludovici,  Piccolomini,  Gae- 
tani  ;  the  Genoese  :  Doria,  Spinola,  Grimaldi,  and 
Cataneo,  Prince  of  Miandro. 

The  Seggias  were  originally  places  where  the 
nobility  assembled  to  settle  their  quota  of  taxes, 
&c.  When  the  parliaments  were  abolished,  and 
the  Seggias  became  considerable,  the  great  barons 
of  the  kingdom  were  obliged  to  get  themselves  in- 
scribed in  their  lists. 

Yesterday  Galiani  and  Jerningham  dined  with 
us,  and  we  then  saw  a  corso  of  barbs,  and  an- 
other of  mares,  both  won  by  English  horses. 
After  that  we  went  to  a  ball  at  Posilipo,  where 
the  Queen  overloaded  us  with  kindness  ;  she  talked 
to  us  half  the  time  of  the  ball,  and  said  she  had 
such  a  sincere  regard  for  Mrs.  S.  that,  if  circum- 
stances would  allow,  she  should  have  looked  upon 
it  as  the  greatest  happiness  of  her  life  to  have 
made  her  her  constant  companion  ;  and  ended  by 
assuring  us  she  was  fond,  very  fond,  of  us  all. 
The  King  also  was  very  good-natured. 

The  Cavalier  Gatti  has  had,  for  moculating 
the  royal  family,  a  diamond  ring,  with  the  cipher 
of  the  two  Princesses,  the  portrait  of  the  Prince 
on  a  box,  and  a  pension  of  six  hundred  ducats 
for  life.     He  never  prepares  for  inoculation. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  1 79 

Sir  William  and  Lady  Hamilton  are  just  ar 
rived  at  Naples,  where  he  has  come  as  ambassa- 
dor. They  are  very  civil  and  agreeable.  We  met 
them  at  dinner  at  Prince  Francavilla's  ;  also  Lady 
Betty  and  Mr.  Mackenzie,  and  Mr.  Dutens.*  We 
had  there  a  young  ass  served  up  for  dinner  and 
eaten.     It  is  like  bad  venison. 


Palermo,  December  2^th, 

I  believe  the  date  of  this  letter  will  surprise 
you,  as,  from  what  I  have  written  before,  you  had 
reason  to  think  my  scheme  of  visiting  Sicily  was 
laid  aside.  It  was  a  sudden  determination  brought 
me  hither.  My  wife's  health  not  permitting  her 
to  move  to  Rome  as  soon  as  we  had  intended, 
and  it  being  resolved,  in  a  council  of  very  partial 
counsellors,  that  it  was  much  better  to  spend  the 
carnival  at  Naples,  I  then,  having  much  time 
upon  my  hands,  resolved  to  pay  a  visit  to  this 
celebrated  island. 

I  now  sit  down  to  write  out  of  charity  for 
two  persons — first,  for  you,  whom   I   suppose   im- 

1  Louis  Dutens,  a  French  literary  man,  much  in  vogue 
in  those  days,  especially  with  the  English.  He  is  the  author 
of  the  "Correspondence  interceptée  de  l'Histoire  abrégée  de 
l'Europe,"  &c.  He  accompanied  Lord  Mountstuart,  British 
envoy  to  the  Court  of  Turin,  as  private  secretary. 

12 — 2 


l8o  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

mersed  in  Northumberland  snow,  huddled  over 
your  solitary  fire,  and  half  asleep  over  some  musty 
book  that  you  could  never  hope  to  get  through 
except  in  such  circumstances  ;  and,  secondly,  for 
myself,  who  am  waiting  here  till  the  rain  ceases 
a  little,  that  I  may  set  out  on  my  land  tour,  for 
which  I  have  been  ready  some  days,  and  am  only 
detained  in  the  hope  of  a  few  dry  hours. 

This,  you  know,  is  not  the  pleasantest  of  all 
possible  situations,  and,  therefore,  a  little  babbling 
with  one's  friends  is  a  relief.  However,  I  have 
made  the  most  of  the  bad  weather,  having  been 
studying  very  hard  many  learned  folios  relating  to 
the  antiquities  and  natural  history  of  Sicily;  so 
that  I  am  somewhat  better  stocked  with  learning 
than  I  was  when  I  landed. 

I  sailed  from  Naples  in  a  French  sloop,  and, 
without  meeting  with  any  accident,  or  seeing  any- 
thing remarkable  during  the  passage,  arrived  here 
in  exactly  thrice  four-and-twenty  hours.  We  had 
calms,  contrary  winds  and  dirty  weather,  otherwise 
the  passage  is  commonly  run  in  six -and -thirty 
hours  or  two  days.  The  appearance  of  Palermo 
is  very  agreeable  from  the  sea,  as  the  capes  ad- 
vance, so  as  to  form  a  very  large  and  almost 
perfect  half-moon.  Its  present  port  is  artificial, 
being    rendered    secure    by    a    mole    running    out 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  l8l 

above  a  mile.  The  old  harbour  is  only  for  fish- 
ing-boats. The  plain  extends  to  the  foot  of  high 
mountains,  which  are  tolerably  green.  To  say  it 
is  a  garden  of  orange  groves,  full  of  villas,  is  the 
best  method  I  can  take  to  give  you  an  idea  of  it. 
Even  at  this  time  of  the  year  it  is  beautiful;  but 
the  soil  is  so  rocky  that  it  is  disagreeable  to  go 
out  of  town  in  a  carriage. 

Palermo  is  a  small  town  ;  its  form  is  almost 
square,  divided  into  four  parts  by  two  straight 
streets  that  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  in 
the  centre,  being  terminated  by  four  gates,  where 
they  join  in  a  kind  of  octagon  square,  adorned 
with  statues  of  the  seasons,  and  of  some  Spanish 
kings.  These  streets,  though  not  well  paved,  are 
yet  bearable  ;  whereas  the  rest  are  as  bad  as  the 
pavement  of  Chastelheraut,  which  you  cannot  but 
remember.  The  buildings  in  these  two  are  hand- 
some, and  pretty  regular;  but,  except  the  palazzi 
and  the  convents,  the  rest  of  the  town  is  horribly 
built.  There  are  statues  of  kings  and  saints  with- 
out number;  indeed,  marble  is  in  plenty,  but  I 
cannot  say  good  statuaries  are  so  easily  come    at. 

The  Domo  is  a  large  Gothic  edifice,  different 
firom  the  style  of  our  English  cathedrals,  but, 
though  barbarous,  not  deficient  in  grandeur  and 
merit.       I    have    found    some    antiquities    of    the 


1 82  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Saracens,  particularly  interesting  to  me  after  my 
Spanish  studies;  and  have  also  had  some  success 
in  my  chasse  aux  médailles,  having  had  a  box  full 
of  silver  and  brass  ones  given  me  by  the  arch- 
bishop, who  is  particularly  civil  to  me.  I  brought 
a  letter  to  him  from  Abbé  Galiani  ;  also  one  to 
Prince  Torremuza,  a  civil,  learned  man,  who  took 
me  to  the  museum.  Prato  Amenos'  daughter  sent, 
two  days  after  my  arrival,  to  offer  me  her  coach, 
and  the  Duke  of  Castellana  called  on  me.  I  have 
seen  Butera's  sister  and  brother-in-law. 

The  viceroy  (Prince  of  Stigliano)  is  a  block- 
head, very  stingy,  and  fait  mal  les  honneurs  de  sa 
place.  The  people  regret  their  old  master  Fogliani, 
whom  they  drove  out;  for  he  used  to  scatter  his 
money  amongst  them,  and  hundreds  of  idle  hands 
that  lived  upon  his  charities  have  since  found  the 
difference  between  him  and  his  successor, 

I  went  to  the  Ricevimento  for  the  son's  mar- 
riage, but  never  saw  anything  so  stupid.  The 
Princess  of  Stigliano  told  me  I  was  welcome  to 
come  on  common  nights  when  she  did  not  receive 
all  the  town.  That  was  the  utmost  extent  of  her 
civility,  though  she  mentioned  my  being  recom- 
mended by  her  husband's  friend  Losada. 

I  never  beheld  such  an  ugly  race  as  the 
Palermitan     ladies  —  quite     monsters        The     only 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  1 83 

tolerably  pretty  woman  is  the  young  Princess  of 
Villafranca. 

The  country  about  Palermo  is  charming,  and 
so  full  of  orange  trees  that  it  appears  summer 
whenever  the  rain  allows  one  to  put  one's  head 
out  of  doors.  I  have  got  a  good  snug  room, 
where  I  pass  most  of  my  time,  except  an  hour 
or  two  at  the  archbishop's. 

I  went  to  a  soirée  at  the  Prince  of  Patagonia's 
country-house,  where  was  assembled  a  collection 
of  frightful  women,  being  the  principal  belles  of 
Palermo.  I  am  sorry  I  left  Brydone's  book  at 
Naples  by  mistake,  for  it  would  have  amused  me 
on  the  road,  and  I  should  be  glad  to  see  how 
far  he  deserves  the  reputation  of  lying  that  most 
travellers  have  bestowed  on  his  work.  However, 
he  is  certainly  right  in  what  he  says  of  the 
scarcity  of  female  beauty  in  this  part  of  the 
world.  I  have  Baron  Reidesel's  voyage  with  me  ; 
it  is  incorrect  and  credulous.  His  Puglia  journey 
gave  me  a  disgust,  from  the  continual  blunders  he 
makes  ;  but  I  am  afraid  his  Sicilian  one  will  prove 
worse. 

I  have  been  to  the  top  of  Monte  Pellegrino, 
the  ancient  Eryx,  where  Hamilcar  Barcas,  father 
to  Hannibal,  remained  five  years  with  his  army, 
during  the  first  Punic  war,  in  spite  of  all  the  efforts 


184  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

of  the  Romans  to  drive  him  away,  as  he  was 
master  of  the  seas.  Santa  Rosalia  is  placed  there 
now,  and  there  is  a  fine  road  cut  up  the  steep 
rock. 

Among  the  villas  in  this  neighbourhood  are 
some  very  showy  ones,  some  in  a  modern  taste; 
one  at  the  Bagaria,  belonging  to  a  Monsignore, 
is  a  very  pretty,  elegant  house,  far  beyond  any  of 
the  gingerbread  stucco  things  in  Italy.  Inlaid 
work  is  done  here  in  perfection,  but  they  only 
work  when  ordered,  so  I  cannot  purchase  any. 
The  silks  here  are  not  good.  I  have  hired  a 
muleteer,  who  conveyed  Madame  de  Tessé  round 
the  island,  and  a  very  civil  intelligent  fellow  for 
a  guard.  His  accoutrement  is  very  magnificent, 
à  la  houssarde,  with  a  velvet  cap  laced  with  silver. 
I  have  also  provided  myself  with  a  good  travelling 
cap,  that  covers  ears  and  shoulders. 

I  propose  going  to  Segesta  (or  ^gesta, 
founded  by  -^neas),  but  I  dare  not  think  on 
the  confounded  long  route  I  have  to  go.  I  am 
ready,  but  the  weather  is  not.  I  have  attempted 
some  excursions  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  have  as 
often  been  completely  soaked  through.  However, 
I  am  in  hopes,  as  it  has  become  very  cold,  and 
the  mountains  behind  us  are  covered  with  snow, 
that  I  shall  get  away  to-morrow  or  the  next  day. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  185 

To  tell  you  the  truth,  I  wish  I  were  fairly 
back  at  Naples.  Qu'ai-je  à  faire  dans  cette  galère  ? 
But  as  that  kind  of  fretting  after  one's  dieux 
pénates  can  do  nobody  any  good,  and  may  do  me 
harm,  I  shall  not  dwell  upon  the  idea. 


Naples,  February  22nd,  1778. 

You  have,  no  doubt,  long  ago  received  my 
letter  from  Palermo,  which,  I  think,  was  written 
in  the  last  week  of  December.  Since  that  I  have 
accomplished  the  tour  of  Sicily,  and  returned  on 
horseback  through  the  whole  length  of  Calabria, 
arriving  here  on  the  13th  of  February,  exactly  two 
months  from  the  day  I  left  Naples.  The  journey 
might  have  been  made  much  shorter,  had  I  not 
been  delayed  by  rivers,  and  want  of  resolution  in 
quitting  Messina.  Not  that  the  charms  of  that 
place  detained  me,  but  the  impossibility  to  come 
home  by  land,  and  the  want  of  a  ship  to  bring 
me  by  sea. 

Luckily  I  overcame  my  own  backwardness, 
and  all  the  sinister  ideas  put  into  my  head  about 
roads  and  robbers,  and  have  had  reason  to  rejoice 
at  my  courage,  for  the  journey  amply  repaid  my 
trouble.  I  met  with  no  accident  of  any  kind, 
performed   the   route   in   eight   days,   and  had   the 


l86  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

finest  weather  through  the  finest  country;  besides 
which,  the  season  has  been  so  boisterous  that  my 
things  are  not  yet  come  by  sea  firom  Sicily. 

I  know  you  expect  an  account  of  my  tour, 
but  I  cannot  undertake  to  give  it  en  detail,  and 
will  refer  you  to  future  letters  and  to  my  journal 
for  minuter  information.  I  can  only  now  afford 
you  a  very  slight  sketch.  You  must  not  be  in 
expectation  of  anything  romantic,  à  la  Don 
Quixote  or  Gil  Bias,  for  I  am  ashamed  to  say 
neither  accident  nor  adventure  befel  me  during 
the  whole  of  my  absence  ;  so,  if  I  wish  to  excite 
your  wonder,  I  must  make  up  a  pack  of  lies  and 
nonsensical  froth,  like  Brydone. 

To  the  good  archbishop's  paternal  care  I  owe 
the  comfort  of  having  had  excellent  beds  and  ac- 
commodation every  night  I  passed  in  Sicily.  My 
muleteers  were  attentive  and  civil,  and  their 
beasts  good,  but  they  were  rather  too  fond  of 
short  days'  journey  ;  indeed,  often  the  unlucky 
position  of  the  towns  and  villages  obliged  us  to 
halt  many  miles  short  of  the  distance  we  might 
have  accomplished,  there  being  very  few  single 
houses  in  most  parts  of  the  island. 

From  Palermo  we  followed  the  coast  west 
and  south  to  Alcano,  which  is  some  miles  from 
the    sea,    among  the   hills.      The    country    is    rich, 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  187 

but  horrid  for  travellers,  such  as  I  was,  after  rain. 
Plantations  of  manna,  a  kind  of  flowering  ash, 
may  be  seen  in  all  shrubberies.  It  is  the  most 
particular  object  on  the  coast,  and  the  principal 
place  for  it  is  Favarotta. 

At  Alcano  there  is  a  great  deal  of  sumach, 
which  is  pounded  and  exported  for  the  purposes 
of  tanning  fine  hides.  I  proceeded  due  south 
towards  the  African  sea,  and  visited  the  temple  of 
Segesta,  one  of  the  finest  and  most  entire  of  the 
Doric  order  existing.  I  will  show  you  the  de- 
signs of  it  when  we  meet. 

At  Castel  Vetrano,  a  place  where  I  drank 
some  of  the  strongest  and  best  white  wines  that  I 
ever  tasted  in  my  life,  I  was  glad  to  get  out  of 
the  deep  clays  and  bare  hilly  country  which  con- 
stitute the  general  run  of  the  inland  parts  of  Sicily. 
The  rocks  are  composed  of  a  shining  substance, 
firom  which  the  plaster  or  gypsum  is  extracted, 
and  these  micacious  quarries  continue  far  along 
the  coast  eastward.  The  vale  of  Castel  Vetrano 
is  a  charming  spot  ;  all  a  woody,  rich  garden,  of 
many  miles'  extent,  with  a  narrow  border  of  sandy 
hillocks  along  the  shore.  Here  are  the  ruins  of 
Silenus,  a  city  which  stood  on  the  slope  of  a 
hill,  with  a  port  at  the  mouth  of  a  trifling  river, 
and    is   said  to   have  received   its  name    from   the 


l88  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

quantity  of  parsley  {selinon)  that  grew  there. 
Little  or  nothing  of  it  remains.  On  the  hill 
above  are  the  remnants  of  three  Doric  temples, 
standing  on  a  flat  like  those  of  Passtum. 

I  rode  for  several  days  eastward  along  the 
coast,  which  is  uneven  and  bare,  except  the  valleys 
near  the  sides  of  rivers.  At  Sciacca  the  hot  sul- 
phurous waters,  which  gave  it  the  name  of  Thermae 
Selinuntiae,  still  retain  their  force.  Not  many 
miles  off,  on  the  top  of  a  rocky  mountain,  are 
hot  sulphurous  vapour  and  other  baths,  in  caverns 
under  a  church — a  thing  I  do  not  recollect  ever 
meeting  with  elsewhere,  as  such  phenomena  in 
nature  are  generally  placed  low.  It  demonstrates 
the  vicinity  of  the  focus  to  every  part  of  Sicily, 
though,  apparently,  Etna  is  the  only  volcano  in 
the  island. 

At  Girgenti  (a  shocking  poor  town  on  the 
point  of  a  high  mountain  four  miles  from  the 
sea),  I  was  struck  with  the  beauties  of  ancient 
Agrigentum  ;  its  situation  was  as  happy  as  that 
of  Girgenti  is  wretched.  Its  temples  stand  in  a 
line  on  a  hill,  where  the  abrupt  rocks  formed  a 
rampart  to  the  south.  The  ground  is  covered 
with  orange,  olive  and  other  charming  woods. 
The  Temple  of  Concord  and  others  are  almost 
entire;    that   of  Jupiter   Olympus   was   the   largest 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  189 

in  the  world,  but  never  finished.  The  great  pond, 
though  dried  up,  can  still  be  traced.  The  Recol- 
lets  have  a  convent  in  the  centre  of  the  old  tov^m, 
and  there  is  a  beautiful  view  from  their  terrace. 

This  is  one  of  the  greatest  corn  ports  in  the 
island  ;  and,  for  the  purpose  of  exportation,  they 
have  made  a  harbour  where  nature  never  meant 
one.  It  does  not  succeed  very  well,  but  is  a  help 
and  advantage  to  the  place  and  coast.  There  is 
no  other  on  the  Southern  shore  (Cape  Trapani 
belongs  to  the  Western),  and  the  foreign  ships  lie 
in  the  roads  to  load  by  means  of  barges.  There  are 
no  Sicilian  vessels  of  large  tonnage.  The  liberty  of 
exportation,  though  partially  granted,  and  often  un- 
justly withheld,  has  thrown  a  deluge  of  wealth  of  late 
years  into  the  island,  and  they  have  ploughed  out 
vast  tracts  of  land,  in  consequence  of  the  great  price 
corn  bears.  The  Sicilians  assured  me  their  island 
could  neither  produce  more  corn,  nor  more  inhabi- 
tants than  it  does  ;  but  to  one  who  was  a  witness  of 
their  slight  mode  of  cultivation,  and  who  has  read 
that  Syracuse  alone  contained  as  many  inhabitants 
as  all  Sicily  can  boast  of  at  present,  such  assertions 
can  meet  with  very  little  credit.^ 

I  The  circumference  of  Syracuse,  according  to  Strabo, 
was  twenty-two  English  miles.  During  the  reign  of  Dionysius 
the  Elder,  it  maintained  an  army  of  100,000  infantry,  10,000 
cavalry,  and  also  400  ships  of  war. 


I  go  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

I  went  to  Alicata,  then  on  the  sands  to  Terra 
Nova,  where  one  column  of  a  temple  remains.  Here 
I  first  beheld  Mount  Etna,  covered  with  snow. 
About  Pietra  Prezzia  are  high  mountains  which 
shut  out  great  parts  of  Sicily  from  its  view. 

Here  I  altered  my  course  and  struck  into  the 
heart  of  the  island  to  Calatagirone,  through  a  rich 
and  pleasant  country,  the  almond  trees  all  in 
blossom,  and  the  sun  so  hot  as  to  be  troublesome. 
You  may  guess  my  surprise  to  find  Calatagirone 
a  place  full  of  gentry  and  coaches,  which,  no 
doubt,  must  have  dropped  from  the  skies,  for  they 
cannot  have  got  up  the  mountain  it  stands  upon  in 
the  usual  way. 

The  town  is  large,  towering  on  the  pinnacle  of 
a  high  mountain,  over  many  finely  cultivated  hills, 
clad  with  vineyards  and  orchards.  A  large  plain 
stretches  for  thirty  miles  to  the  foot  of  Etna,  which 
here  appears  in  full  glory,  a  most  stupendous  cone 
indeed  1  The  snow  covers  about  one  fourth  of  its 
height,  then  comes  a  dark  brown  region,  lower  down 
a  number  of  white  villages,  and  at  the  foot  stands 
Catania. 

I  met  at  Calatagirone  a  vast  number  of  well- 
dressed,  elegant  young  people,  had  a  most  agreeable 
supper  served  up  by  a  French  cook,  and  a  very 
sprightly   boti  ton  conversation,    quite    upon   a   dif- 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I91 

ferent  style  from  the  awkward  manner  of  Palermo. 
I  own  I  was  as  much  astonished  as  if  I  had  found 
it  in  some  remote  part  of  Barbary.  Yet  this 
place  has  no  commerce  of  any  kind.  It  certainly 
is  remarkable  for  the  elegance  of  manners  and 
politeness  of  its  inhabitants,  and  I  am  told  there 
are  also  other  inland  towns  full  of  better-bred 
people  than  those  on  the  coast. 

I  travelled  on  an  immense  plain  of  thirty-four 
miles*  breadth  to  Lentini,  which  affords  nothing 
curious  but  its  lake,  full  of  trout,  of  the  eggs  of 
which  is  made  a  caviare,  called  butarga,  that  is  very 
good.^  This  place  has  the  worst  malaria  of  all 
Sicily,  being  a  long  chain  of  marshy  ponds  to  the 
sea,  abounding  with  water-fowl.  As  we  travelled 
along  them,  the  report  of  the  fowling-pieces  was 
so  frequent  as  to  resemble  the  noise  of  a  regiment 
exercising. 

I  next  steered  south,  over  a  stony  country,  to 
Syracuse,  where  I  revelled  four  days  in  the  bishop's 
palace,  tasting  such  varieties  of  exquisite  wines  as  I 
had  no  idea  of  before.  The  weather  was  heavenly, 
and  my  stay  there  was  the  most  agreeable  part  of 
my  tour.  The  climate  is  so  mild,  that  on  the  14th 
of  January  I  plucked  off  the  tree  and  ate  a  handful 

I  The  Greeks  of  the  islands  make  this  butarga^  which  is 
sold  in  cakes,  of  the  roe  of  the  mullet. 


192  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

of  fresh  tender  almonds.  Roses,  honeysuckles  and 
carnations,  in  several  gardens,  were  in  bloom.  The 
situation  is  matchless — I  mean  that  of  the  whole 
ancient  city,  for  the  present  one  is  very  small,  but 
even  that  is  in  a  pleasing  position.  The  fortifica- 
tions that  defend  the  land-gate  are  strong,  and  in 
good  repair;  but  to  the  sea  the  place  is  weak 
enough,  and  the  entrance  to  the  port  narrow. 

I  spent  a  whole  day  in  riding  and  walking  round 

the  walls   of  the  ancient  city,  which   are  of  some 

height  above  the  ground.     Strabo's  account  must  be 

just,  of  their  being  twenty-two  miles  round.     This 

immense  city  commanded  the  most  magnificent  view 

imaginable.     Little  vestige  of  buildings  remains  in 

this  vast  enclosure,  except  part  of  the  theatre.     The 

Latomiae,   or    subterraneous    prisons,    are    curious. 

That  called  the  Ear  of  Dionysius  is  a  large  quarry, 

wrought  in  a  circular  form,  and  certainly  made  use 

of  as  a  dungeon,  as  the  ear  is  artificially  cut,  and  has 

many  rings  in  the  wall  for  fastening  chains  to,  for 

the  hands  and  feet.     At  the  top  it  is  narrowed  and 

twisted  in  the  shape  of  an  S  till  it  terminates  in  a 

groove,  which  is  conveyed  to  a  small  closet  high  up 

over  the  entrance,  where  the  listeners  sat.     From 

the  breaches  in  it,  the  hearing  there   is  now  very 

imperfect,    as    those    tell    me    who    have    been   let 

down   by  ropes   from   the   top.      The   echo   in   the 


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COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I93 

cave  is  wonderful  ;  the  tearing  of  a  sheet  of  paper 
is  like  the  cracking  of  a  whip  ;  the  walls  are 
smooth,  cut  so  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  escape, 
for  the  top  projects  very  much  over  the  bottom. 

In  the  middle  of  a  part  of  the  rock  was  the 
guard-house,  and  all  around  the  summit  of  the  rocks 
runs  the  water  of  an  aqueduct.  The  Latomise,  at 
the  Capuchin  convent,  nearer  the  sea,  are  very  exten- 
sive, and  divided  into  several  courts,  now  filled  with 
a  wilderness  of  orange  and  lemon  trees,  olives  and 
almonds,  which,  from  luxuriancy  of  growth,  have 
taken  root  in  the  clefts  of  the  rocks. 

The  catacombs  are  lower  down,  and  reckoned 
more  wonderful  than  those  of  Rome  or  Naples. 
In  many  of  the  mouths  of  the  skeletons  were 
found  medals.  The  marks  of  the  wheels  worn  in 
the  rock  trace  out  the  streets  of  the  town. 

I  went  seven  miles  through  a  low,  marshy 
meadow,  upon  the  winding,  deep  water  of  the 
Anapus,  up  to  the  fountain  of  Cyane,  now  called 
La  Pisma.  It  is  a  circular  pool  of  clear  water  in 
a  flat  meadow,  where  the  spring  rises.  I  could 
not  see  it  boil,  or  in  any  violent  motion,  yet  it 
runs  down  with  great  velocity,  is  full  of  fish,  and 
its  banks  are  covered  with  the  Egyptian  papyrus. 
I  believe  this  is  the  only  place  in  Europe  where  it 
is  to  be    found.     It    is    called    La    Perucca,    from 

VOL.    I  13 


194  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  mop  form  of  its  head.  So  much  for  sweet 
Syracuse  ! 

The  next  night  I  passed  at  Augusta,  a  town 
on  an  isthmus  in  a  beautiful  bay.  Then  came 
to  Catania,  the  finest  city  in  Sicily.  Its  build- 
ings are  grand  and  its  streets  wide,  and  the  dis- 
position of  them  peculiarly  handsome.  It  is  built 
upon  black  lava,  vomited  out  of  two  hills,  near 
the  foot  of  Etna,  in  1669,  which  is  quite  different 
from  that  of  Vesuvius.  It  is  impenetrable,  and 
unproductive  of  the  least  dust  that  might  give 
hopes  of  a  disposition  to  vegetation.  The  Prince 
of  Biscari,  to  whom  I  brought  a  letter,  has  made 
gardens  and  walks  upon  it,  but  every  tree  is 
planted  in  earth  brought  from  other  places.  His 
museum  contains  many  precious  articles.  His 
cabinet  of  cameos  and  intaglios  is  a  rich  one, 
and  his  cretas  and  vases  are  curious.  I  spent 
some  days  with  him  very  agreeably.  There  is  a 
very  fine  convent  of  Benedictines  at  Catania. 

The  snow  lay  too  low  on  Etna  to  tempt  me 
to  climb  to  its  summit  ;  but  I  dined  in  the  tree 
of  the  Centi  Cavalli,  which  is  the  most  curious, 
but  not  the  most  striking,  of  the  trees  thereabouts, 
for  it  is  not  easy  at  first  sight  to  believe  it  ever 
to  have  been  one  trunk,  though  I  saw  it  was  so 
upon  examination.     There  are  some  chesnut  trees, 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  1 95 

as  yet  undivided,  of  astonishing  width  ;  I  measured 
one  seventy-eight  feet  round — about  the  size  of 
the  dining-room  at  Capheaton.  The  wonderful 
size  of  Etna  makes  one  think  with  contempt  of 
the  Neapolitan  Vesuvius, 

At  Taormina,  the  situation  of  the  theatre  upon 
a  lofty,  narrow  promontory  running  into  the  sea, 
and  affording  a  full  view  of  Etna  on  one  side  and 
Italy  and  the  harbour  of  Messina  on  the  other, 
occupied  my  attention  very  agreeably.  The  ride 
to  Messina  is  pleasant  along  the  shore,  under 
woody  hills,  with  many  pretty  towns  on  the  tops 
of  them.  The  Palazzata,  or  semicircular  range  of 
regular  houses,  that  runs  along  the  port  of  Messina, 
is,  undoubtedly,  the  grandest  thing  of  the  kind  I 
ever  saw  ;  adding  thereto  the  noble  haven,  the  very 
fine  citadel,  and  the  opposite  mountains  of  Cala- 
bria, which  do  not  appear  at  the  distance  of  a 
stone's  throw. 

The  town  has  two  fine  streets,  and  a  large 
cathedral  remarkable  for  its  ancient  columns  and 
the  richness  of  its  marbles.  The  hills  behind  are 
handsome,  but  there  are  no  rides  amongst  them, 
nor  any  other  walk  at  Messina  than  along  the 
beach.  That  near  the  port  is  a  very  fine  one. 
Many  of  the  buildings  are  in  ruins,  others  un- 
finished. 

13—2 


igÔ  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

There  is  the  greatest  appearance  of  depopu- 
lation everywhere  since  the  plague,  and  the  ruin 
of  the  trade.  The  harbour  is  so  deep  that  ships 
can  only  lie  close  along  the  quay. 

Having  waited  there  six  days  to  no  purpose, 
in  hopes  of  prevailing  on  a  Provençal  vessel  to 
carry  me  to  Naples,  and  the  wind  being  quite 
fallen,  I  left  my  baggage,  arms,  and  almost  every- 
thing behind,  and  hired  a  boat  with  six  oars  to 
take  me  as  far  towards  Naples  as  it  could. 

The  tide,  which  sets  very  strong  into  the 
Faro  at  stated  times,  obliged  us  to  lie-to  all  the 
evening,  just  without  Cape  Peloso  ;  and  in  the 
night  we  sailed  and  rowed  about  fifty  miles, 
having  a  fine  moon,  and  the  coast  at  about  ten 
miles  from  us  on  our  right,  and  the  Lipari  Island 
about  sixty  on  our  left. 

Next  morning  we  made  the  south  part  of  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Eufemia,  and  were  in  hopes  of  reach- 
ing the  Cape  of  Cetraro,  but  the  wind  obliged  us 
to  put  into  Tropea,  a  small  bishop's  see  on  a  rock 
projecting  into  the  gulf.  I  there  hired  horses  to 
take  me  and  my  two  servants  to  Cosenza.  We 
had  delightful  weather,  and  a  very  pleasant  ride 
to  Monteleone,  a  considerable  town,  charmingly 
situated,  where  I  lodged  at  a  convent,  and  saun- 
tered about  while  supper  was  preparmg.      It  com- 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I97 

mands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  sea.  The  olive  woods 
are  thick  and  full-leaved  on  the  slopes  of  the  hills, 
and  the  corn-fields  intersected  by  roads  of  fine 
green  sward,  upon  which  I  saw  several  carriages 
out  on  airing,  and  priests  without  number  enjoy- 
ing the  evening  sun. 

Next  day  I  passed  by  some  rich  villages  with 
great  beauty  of  cultivation  about  them,  passed  a 
large  river,  and  came  to  sleep  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  at  Nicastro.  The  town  is  in  a  valley, 
with  fine  woods  and  lofty  mountains — a  very  ro- 
mantic situation.  On  the  following  morning  we 
ascended  the  mountains,  and  travelled  up  and 
down  them,  in  forests  of  chesnut  and  oak  of  pro- 
digious bulk  and  age  ;  there  are  immense  quanti- 
ties of  fine  timber. 

Cosenza  is  an  ugly,  poor  city,  built  in  a  narrow 
pass  where  two  rivers  meet,  and  in  winter  is  seldom 
without  clouds  and  rain.  In  summer  the  air  is 
noxious.  The  river  Crato  runs  to  the  east,  through 
an  immense  plain  into  the  sea,  near  the  ancient 
Sibaris.^ 

I  continued  my  road  over  the  hills  to  Morano, 
through   a    very   mountainous    country,   where    the 

I  This  city  was  at  one  time  so  powerful  that  it  sent 
300,000  men  into  the  field.  The  subsequent  effeminacy  of 
its  inhabitants  gave  rise  to  the  appellation  of  a  "  Sybarite." 


igS  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

finest  views,  most  noble  timber,  richest  vallej^s, 
and  pleasantly  seated  towns,  occur  in  great  variety, 
with  beautiful  rivers  and  torrents.  I  saw  from  one 
mountain  the  seas  on  either  side,  and  boats  upon 
them.  Then  to  Lago  Nero,  a  large  town,  worse 
than  the  wild  villages  you  have  passed  in  the  Alps. 
I  rode  through  the  charming  plain  of  Diano.  Vil- 
lages line  the  spurs  of  the  hills  on  both  sides,  for 
the  malaria  prevents  the  lowlands  being  inhabited. 
It  is  a  delightful  tract  of  country.  At  the  end  of  it 
we  came  to  our  inn  at  La  Polla.  The  river  Negro, 
which  runs  down  the  plain,  goes  underground  for 
above  a  mile,  and  bursts  out  with  vast  impetuosity 
at  the  head  of  another  vale,  where  it  winds  its  course 
to  the  plains  of  Eboli,  waters  the  royal  gardens  at 
Persano,  and  falls  into  the  sea  a  few  miles  north  of 
Pesto. 

The  views  during  this  day's  ride  were  enchant- 
ing. At  "  La  Duchesse,"  a  royal  hunting-box,  we 
came  to  a  good  road,  and,  descending  through  the 
King's  forest,  crossed  the  bridge  of  Eboli,  and  came 
to  the  fine  road  made  by  the  King  of  Spain.  I  took 
a  coach  and  post-horses,  and  late  that  night  reached 
Naples,  to  my  great  comfort — most  happy  to  get 
back  au  sein  de  ma  famille  and  to  find  all  well. 

Considering  that  we  are  in  the  height  of  car- 
nival, and  that  the  King  and  Queen  are  parading  the 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  I99 

Streets  in  a  most  superb  masquerade,  representing 
the  return  of  the  Grand  Seignior  from  Mecca,  I 
think  you  owe  me  some  thanks  for  having  the 
courage  and  friendship  to  retire  from  all  this 
gaiety   to  write   you   such   a  voluminous   letter. 

This  cavalcade  is  the  finest  exhibition,  perhaps 
ever  seen  ;  the  dresses,  trappings,  arms,  &c.,  are 
de  la  dernière  magnificencCy  not  excepting  a  car  for  the 
ladies,  perfectly  in  costume.  Twenty -four  Janis- 
saries go  first,  then  the  King  as  Aga  to  twenty-four 
spahis  or  horsemen.  Then  the  divan,  with  four 
ambassadors  from  China,  Siam,  Persia,  and  Hindo- 
stan.  The  car  of  Sultanas,  of  which  the  Queen  is 
one,  drawn  by  eight  horses,  musicians,  vases  as 
presents,  perfumes,  horses,  camels,  &c.  This  is 
all  performed  by  the  noblesse  about  Court,  and  the 
King's  guards. 

As  it  has  been  raining  sadly  during  the  carnival, 
the  King  was  very  much  afraid  of  this  brilliant  spec- 
tacle being  frustrated  by  the  weather;  therefore  he 
had  five  hundred  masses  said  for  obtaining  fine 
weather  for  that  one  day.  It  did  not  rain,  and 
he  has  been  going  about  telling  everybody  how  he 
prevented  it.  The  masked  balls  here  are  extremely 
splendid  this  year.  I  was  at  one  last  night  with 
Sir  Thomas,  who  was  disguised  en  femme  de  chambre, 
to  the  great  diversion  of  the   King,   who  took  him 


200  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

under  his  arm,  and  paraded  him  about  the  galleries, 
ready  to  die  with  laughing. — Adieu!  This  letter  is 
already  too  long. 


Naples,  March  25^/1,  1778. 

By  a  mistake  of  the  banker's,  your  letter  of  the 
loth  of  January  was  sent  to  Messina,  and  delayed 
so  long,  that  it  only  returned  to  Naples  yesterday. 
I  do  not  think  any  more  of  going  to  England  this 
year,  on  account  of  the  great  trouble  and  expense 
it  would  put  me  to,  and  because  the  only  affair 
of  consequence  that  might  call  me  home  is  the 
division  of  the  common,  which  I  find  firom  your 
letter  can  be  transacted  just  as  well  in  my 
absence. 

I  sent  you  an  account  of  my  Sicilian  trip  in  a 
long  letter  some  time  ago,  which  I  trust  you  re- 
ceived. Naples  is  very  gay,  the  balls  at  Court  more 
numerous  and  brilliant  than  last  year,  and  the  play 
deeper. 

We  have  many  English  here  ;  the  prettiest  is 
Lady  Smith,  daughter  of  Tom  Délavai.^  Lady 
Maynard  is  also  here,  and  we  have  had  the  devil 
to  pay  about  her.  Lord  Maynard  has  left  no  stone 
unturned  to   get  her  presented,  but  in  vain  ;   and 

X  Lady  Smith  was  the  Miss  Parsons  before  alluded  to. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  201 

poor  Lady  Hamilton  has  had  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
about  refusing  it.  The  King  has  put  an  absolute 
negative  upon  the  proposal,  and  all  seems  quiet 
again,  though  I  cannot  answer  for  this  cabal  per- 
mitting the  Hamiltons  to  be  long  at  peace. 

Sir  William  and  Lady  Hamilton  are  very  civil 
to  us,  and  we  live  on  the  most  intimate  terms 
with  them.  We  have  had  a  ball  at  Prince  Ca- 
riati's,  on  the  occasion  of  his  son's  (the  Duke  of 
Seminera's)  marriage  with  Donna  Margarita  Bran- 
caforte.  A  most  noble  room  was  built  on  purpose; 
the  French  ambassador  made  one  in  a  rich  quad- 
rille of  Spaniards. 

Some  days  ago  the  King  and  Queen  went  to 
Astroni,  and  we,  as  well  as  all  the  English,  were 
there  to  see  the  wild  boars  hunted.  The  weather 
was  delightful  and  the  locale  charming;  the  royal 
pair  gracious  and  affable  beyond  measure;  but  the 
sport  was  sad — a  mere  butchery  of  hogs. 

The  Queen  and  the  company  were  within  a 
palisade,  on  a  rising  ground,  under  some  fine  oaks. 

The  King  and  several  of  his  courtiers  were 
stationed  on  horseback,  in  the  plain  in  firont,  with 
large  spears  in  their  hands.  A  body  of  hunters 
drove  all  the  game  from  the  hanging  woods  which 
line  the  sides  of  the  immense  crater,  to  the  spot 
where   the    King   was    placed;    and   this    was    the 


202  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

best  part  of  the  sport,  for  it  was  a  cheerful  scene 
to  see  such  crowds  beat  the  thicket,  and  to  hear 
their  continued  firing,  shouting  and  hallooing.  The 
boars  ran  down  into  the  open  grounds,  and  there 
large  hounds  were  let  loose  to  stop  them,  in 
order  that  the  horsemen  might  come  up  and  spear 
them  ;  but  as  the  dogs  were  too  large  and  too 
numerous  for  these  tame  animals,  the  poor  beasts 
generally  tumbled  about  sprawling,  for  the  royal 
hero  to  drive  his  spear  into  them  at  his  leisure. 

The  Queen  was  very  chatty,  made  the  ladies 
sit  on  fagots  near  her,  and  was  very  attentive  to 
the  company.  The  King  ordered  a  wild  boar  to 
be  sent  to  each  of  the  English  ladies  present.  The 
Queen  then  walked  firom  Astroni  to  the  lake  of 
Agnano,  where  she  sat  until  dark,  conversing  with 
some  foreigners  and  two  or  three  of  her  Court. 
Lady  Maynard  was  present  at  the  day's  diversion, 
and  with  her  companions  formed  a  group  apart. 
None  but  herself  could  have  supported  such  a 
disagreeable  situation.  They  say  the  Queen  is 
not  unwilling  to  receive  her,  but  the  King  will 
not  hear  of  it.  Lord  Maynard  asked  him  in  the 
tennis-court,  and  was  refused  plump. 

The  Queen  is  now  thicker  than  ever  with 
Madame  Santo  Marco,  who  patronises  Lady  May- 
nard.    I   saw   the   latter   at   a   splendid   ball   given 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  203 

by  Lord  Tilney,  where  she  and  her  gang  assisted, 
seceding  from  the  rest  of  the  company  to  one 
corner  of  the  room. 

We  have  a  beautiful  new  ballet  just  now  at 
St.  Carlo,  the  Syrosa  Persiana;  and  Le  Picq, 
who  is  a  great  favourite  with  Her  Majesty,  dances 
like  an  angel.  The  Queen  has  projected  a  grand 
dance,  of  a  Chinese  construction,  in  which  she 
and  the  King  are  to  take  a  part.  For  that  pur- 
pose, numberless  lessons  are  given  and  rehearsals 
set  on  foot  ;  notwithstanding  which,  I  am  told 
this  ballet  will  not  take  place  ;  indeed,  by  all  ac- 
counts, it  is  a  very  unbecoming  one  for  sovereigns, 
fiill  of  genuflexions  and  prosternations. 

The  Queen  has  been  very  kind  to  my  chil- 
dren, having  had  them  to  play  with  hers,  and 
loaded  them  with  the  most  expensive  toys,  silver 
cages,  gilt  coaches,  &c.  We  have  taken  leave  of 
her,  having  fixed  to  set  out  in  a  day  or  two  for 
Rome.  She  was  extremely  gracious,  and  press- 
ingly  invited  us  to  return;  indeed,  I  shall  be  very, 
very  sorry  to  leave  Naples  ;  mais  il  faut  faire  une 
fin;  and  although  I  have  no  mighty  reasons  to 
call  me  more  to  one  place  than  another,  I  can- 
not reconcile  to  my  conscience  the  staying  so  long 
from  Rome,  where  you  know  I  have  never  yet 
been.     You  must  direct  to  me  there  at  Mr.  Byre's. 


204  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

We  made  our  last  appearance  last  night  at  a 
grand  conversazione,  given  at  Caserta,  to  celebrate 
the  King's  recovery  from  his  inoculation.  Gatti 
was  very  much  fêté. 


Rome,  May, 

I  am  happy  if  ever  man  was,  car  me  voici  à 
Rome,  V unique  objet  de  mon  désir ^  (not  ressentiment). 
We  arrived  in  time  to  behold,  besides  all  its  own 
intrinsic  merits,  the  ceremony  of  holy  week  ;  but 
in  these  last  I  confess  I  am  disappointed — they 
fall  far  below  my  expectations — there  is  neither 
decency  nor  magnificence.  Such  a  noise  !  such 
crowding  and  difficulties  I  I  have  seen  finer  and 
more  imposing  solemnities  in  a  French  cathedral 
than  here  in  Rome,  except,  indeed,  the  Pope's 
High  Mass  in  St.  Peter's  on  Easter-day,  which  is 
a  very  noble  exhibition.  His  blessing  the  people 
firom  the  windows  of  St.  Peter's  is  one  of  the 
most  striking  sights  in  the  world,  and  I  think  the 
grandest. 

Pius  VI.  does  it  admirably,  and  exhibits  one 
of  the  most  majestic  figures  possible,  as  he  rises 
up,  lifts  his  arms  above  his  head,  and  blesses  the 
three    points    of   the    compass.      The    Miserere    is 

I  Quotation  from  Corneille's  "  Les  Horaces." 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  205 

performed  in  his  chapel  by  fine  voices,  without 
instruments. 

On  Thursday  night  an  illumined  cross,  let 
down  from  the  cupola  of  St.  Peter's,  had  a  very 
grand  effect.  Many  painters  came  to  study  and 
take  views  firom  it,  as  well  as  of  the  inside  of  the 
church  by  that  light.  Some  I  have  seen  are 
singularly  beautiful,  from  the  strong  contrast  of 
light  and  shade. 

Sir  Thomas  and  myself  were  presented  to  the 
Pope  soon  after  our  arrival.  He  received  us  at 
the  door  of  the  apartment,  as  he  was  going  out 
to  walk.  Abbé  Grant,  who  conducted  us,  talked 
so  much,  that  the  Pope  could  not  get  in  a  word. 
His  Holiness  is  a  very  handsome,  tall  man,  with 
fair  hair,  half  white,  and  a  ruddy  face,  with  a 
turned-up  nose.  He  speaks  French,  but  did  not 
to  us  —  indeed,  he  addressed  himself  entirely  to 
Abbé  Grant. 

A  few  days  after,  Mrs.  Swinburne  was  pre- 
sented to  him,  and  took  the  children,  as  he  came 
up  from  his  devotions  in  the  chapel  of  the  Sacra- 
ment at  St.  Peter's.  She  made  the  children  kiss 
his  foot.  He  then  held  it  out  for  her  to  kiss, 
and  next  day  he  sent  her  some  very  beautiful 
beads  and  stones  of  oriental  agate.  He  performs 
all  his  ceremonies  with   much  grace,  and  appears 


206  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

to  have  practised  and  studied  his  actions  before 
he  comes  out  of  his  room.  He  is  very  proud  of 
his  legs  and  feet,  and  wears  his  gown  short  to 
show  them.  He  sits  up  very  late,  and  rises  early, 
but  sleeps  in  the  afternoon,  and  takes  a  mile  walk 
to  Ponte  Molle  about  sunset. 

Abbé  Grant,  who  generally  performs  the  part 
of  cicerone  or  introducteur  to  the  English,  is  a 
Scotchman,  and  was  brought  up  to  London  as 
a  rebel  in  the  year  1745-6,  in  the  same  ship  with 
Lords  Balmerino,  Kilmarnock,  &c.  Whilst  on 
the  voyage,  a  Scotch  servant  said  to  him,  **  You 
will  be  saved."  Grant  shook  his  head,  and  replied, 
"I  fear  not,  friend."  "You  will,"  said  the  other; 
"but  you  will  be  the  only  one." 

Not  putting  any  faith  in  the  second- sight  of 
his  countryman,  he  had  no  hopes,  both  from  the 
inveteracy  of  the  Court  party,  and  from  his  having 
no  friends  to  intercede  for  him.  By  the  merest 
chance  no  proofs  or  witnesses  appeared  against 
him,  and  therefore,  to  his  great  surprise,  he  was 
acquitted.  He  then  immediately  set  out  for  Rome, 
where  he  has  resided  ever  since.  He  told  me  that 
the  cruelty  and  violence  of  the  Duke  of  Cumber- 
land's army  were  incredible,  and  that  a  Jacobite 
house  being  set  •  on  fire  (the  inhabitants  having 
been  permitted  to  come  out  beforehand),  one  little 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  207 

girl,  crying,  said  she  had  forgotten  her  doll,  and 
ran  back  up  the  stairs  for  it,  upon  which  a  brutal 
soldier  dashed  her  from  the  window  of  the  house 
after  her  family,  and  she  died  on  the  spot. 

The  approach  to  St.  Peter's  does  not  quite 
please  me  ;  the  houses  facing  the  church  are  so 
shabby.  The  vestibule  is  charming,  and  the  inside 
divine  ;  yet  in  some  things  I  prefer  St.  Paul's. 
The  great  door  there  has  a  more  solemn  general 
effect;  yet  the  cupola  roof  of  St.  Peter's,  and  the 
unity  of  all  the  parts,  are  quite  sublime.  The  two 
fountains  are  delightful  ;  they  discharge  such  a 
quantity  of  water  in  so  agreeable  a  manner,  as  to 
realise  all  my  ideas  taken  from  drawings. 

Upon  Easter  Monday  we  began  our  tour  of 
all  the  antiquities,  churches,  &c.,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Mr.  Byres,  the  antiquary,  and  commenced 
by  the  Campo  Vaccino,  which  was  originally  a 
marsh,  where  the  Romans  and  the  Sabines  fought. 
In  this  marsh  Curtius,  the  Sabine,  was  drowned, 
which  probably  gave  rise  to  the  fable  of  his 
devoting  himself.  In  the  north-west  corner  of 
the  forum  stood  the  temple  of  Mars,  now  the 
church  of  San  Martino.  There  lay  the  statue  of 
Marforio,  so  called  from  its  position.  It  is  now 
removed  to  the  court  of  the  Capitol.  Its  rival 
Pasquin    took    its    name    from    a   barber,    a    great 


208  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

newsmonger  and  encourager  of  seditious  wit,  near 
whose  door  Marforio  lay.  It  was  at  that  time 
almost  the  only  ancient  statue  known  of  above 
ground.  The  shop  still  retained  the  name  of 
Pasquin  after  his  death,  and  is  to  this  day 
a  school  for  a  similar  epigrammatic  literature. 
When  Alexander  VII.  (Ottoboni  by  name)  suc- 
ceeded Innocent  X.,  Pasquin  said  to  Marforio, 
**  Allegrezza  I  per  un  Papa  cattivo  abbiamo  otto 
buoni."^ 

The  arch  of  Septimius  Severus,  in  the  forum, 
is  covered  with  rubbish  twenty  feet  higher  than 
the  old  foundation,  although  it  was  the  ascent  to 
the  Capitol.  Next  to  it  is  a  part  of  the  rampart, 
on  which  stands  the  portico  of  the  temple  of 
Concord,  where  Cicero  convened  the  Senate 
in  Catiline's  conspiracy.  It  was  burnt  by  the 
soldiers  of  Vitellius,  and  very  ill  restored,  for 
the  Ionic  columns  do  not  match  ;  they  are  of 
Egyptian  granite,  and,  like  most  others  brought 
to    Rome,    were     probably    ready    cut     for     other 


I  Another  of  Pasquin's  satires  on  Popes  Pio  VI.  and 
VII.  is  worth  recording.     It  was  written  at  the  time  when 
the  latter  went  to  France  and  crowned  Napoleon. 
•'  Romani  vi  diro  un  bel  quadro — 

D'un  santo  padre  chi  fu  coronar  un  ladro. 

Un  Pio,  per  conservar  la  fede,  lascia  la  sede; 

Un  altro,  per  conservar  la  sede,  lascia  la  fede  1  *' 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  SOQ 

edifices.  Next  was  the  arch  of  Tiberius,  of  which 
no  vestige  remains.  All  triumphal  arches  were 
built  over  great  thoroughfares. 

But  I  find  myself  getting  into  a  description  of 
Rome,  which  you  will  not  thank  me  for  ;  so  I  will 
tell  you  of  an  excursion  we  made  some  days  ago 
to  dine  at  Frescati,  with  Lady  Betty  and  Mr. 
Mackenzie,  Mr.  Dutens  and  Abbé  Grant.  The 
hills  thereabout  are  beautiful.  Cardinal  York  was 
officiating  in  the  church  when  we  went  in,  and 
immediately  sent  to  tell  the  ladies  they  must  pull 
off  their  hats,  or  else  go  out.  This  peremptory 
order  of  the  ex-Prince  could  not  very  easily  be 
complied  with,  according  to  the  present  mode 
of  ladies'  hats  being  fastened  on  the  cushion  by 
long  pins,  &c.,  unless  His  Royal  Highness  had 
provided  a  perruquier  to  extricate  them.  They 
therefore  refused  to  obey.  Many  messages  passed 
and  repassed.  Mrs.  S.  sent  him  word  that  she 
had  not  heard  mass,  and  left  the  omission  on  his 
conscience.  He  is  an  ugly,  foolish-looking,  long- 
visaged  fellow,  very  like  his  grandfather,  full  of 
pride,  and  just  such  another  obstinate  bigot. 

We  then  walked  to  the  Aldobrandini  Villa,  and 
saw  the  waterworks  ;  one  is  very  pretty,  as  it  is  seen 
tumbling  down  the  hill  through  a  grove  of  trees. 
Thence  we  went  to  Villa  Conti,  where  are  a  noble 

VOL.    i  14 


2IO  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

wood,  shady  walks  and  lofty  jets  d'eau.  After 
dinner  we  went  through  Villa  Bracciano,  a  wood 
and  drive  very  like  Gibride.  The  views  from  these 
villas  are  extensive,  but  the  Campagna  is  a  horrid 
object. 

Abbé  Grant  told  us  a  comical  story  of  Cardinal 
York  and  Cardinal  de  Bernis.  They  were  sitting 
together  one  day,  when  the  floor  of  the  room  gave 
way,  and  partly  fell  in.  Frightened  to  death,  and 
thinking  themselves  on  the  verge  of  eternity,  they 
both  called  with  a  loud  voice,  the  one,  '*  Eccel- 
lenza  1  assoluzione  in  articulo  mortis  Î  '*  the  other, 
*'  Altezza  réale  !  assoluzione  in  articulo  mortis  1  " 
However,  their  fears  were  groundless — I  do  not 
mean  to  pun — for  the  floor  did  not  fall  a  great 
way,  and  they  met  with  no  hurt. 

Two  days  after,  we  went  to  Tivoli  with  the 
same  party.  The  Campagna  is  bare,  but  cultivated 
tant  bien  que  mal.  The  situation  of  Tivoli  is  bold  and 
commanding,  the  cascade  grand,  and  the  temple  of 
the  Sibyl  beautifully  placed  on  the  point  of  a  rock  ; 
but  it  would  be  more  conspicuous  were  it  not  for  the 
filthy  houses  of  the  town.  Its  environs  are  won- 
derful. Below  is  the  grotto  of  Neptune,  where  the 
Teverone  rushes  through  the  rocks  from  precipice  to 
precipice,  and  theft  glides  through  a  bridge,  perhaps 
of  its  own  forming.     From  the  walk  on  the  hill-side 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  211 

you  see  at  once  the  valley,  the  winding  river,  the 
towns  of  Tivoli,  Caveatella,  the  arches  of  Mœcenas's 
villa,  and  the  Campagna  of  Rome;  the  sea,  St. 
Peter's  cupola  and  the  Alban  hill.  There  is  not 
a  richer  view,  nor  one  more  difficult  to  paint; 
yet  I  have  attempted  it.  I  have  also  taken  a 
view  of  Villa  Millina. 

The  ride  is  delicious  through  the  gardens  of 
Villa  Madama,  one  much  neglected,  and  up  a  bank 
of  wood  of  arbor  Judas,  flowering  ash,  and  other 
pretty  trees.  Villa  Millina  stands  on  the  point  of 
a  hill,  backed  by  rows  of  cypresses,  and  has  by  far 
the  finest  prospect  of  Rome. 

There  are  many  musicians  here.  Nardini,  who 
is  the  first  violin  player  in  the  world,  comes  to  us  in 
the  evening,  and  RufTma  Battoni,  daughter  of  the 
famous  portrait  painter,  a  beautiful  girl,  has  a 
divine  voice,  and  delights  us  with  her  singing. 

Her  father  has  painted  one  of  the  rooms  in  the 
palace  of  Monte  Cavallo,  which  is  an  enormous 
building  in  a  charming  situation.  The  coffee-house 
where  Benedict  XIV.  received  the  King  of  Naples, 
is  a  vestibule  with  a  room  at  each  end,  and  a 
balcony  commanding  half  of  Rome.  It  contains 
some  fine  pictures. 

The  Coliseo  is  a  stupendous  edifice.  The 
stations    and   clean    walks   which    have   been    made 

14— a 


212  LETTERS    FROM    THB 

in  the  inside  are  very  picturesque  additions  in  my 
eyes,  though  I  would  not  acknowledge  it  to  an 
antiquarian:  it  was  built  by  Vespasian. 

Villa  Albani  is  airy,  rich  and  elegant  ;  two  noble 
alabaster  vases,  one  at  each  end  of  the  hall,  are 
valued  at  £2,000  each;  and  amidst  a  profusion  of 
statues  and  antiques,  one  must  notice  the  basso- 
relievo  of  Antinous,  which  was  found  in  Adrian's 
villa — perhaps,  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  owner 
refused  40,000  crowns  for  it,  offered  by  the  late 
Pope.  It  is  over  a  chimney,  and  is  an  exquisite 
performance.  The  room  it  occupies  is  the  richest 
I  ever  saw  with  mosaics  and  grotesques  ;  the 
ceiling  representing  Apollo  and  the  Muses  is  by 
Mengs,  the  first  Muse  being  done  to  represent 
Madame  de  Prié.* 

The  family  Albani  were  originally  in  the  service 
of  the  Dukes  of  Urbino,  and  the  last  duke  having 
been  persuaded  to  resign  his  duchy  during  his  life 
to  the  Holy  See,  chose  Albani  to  go  to  Rome  to 
make  a  formal  abdication  for  him.  Albani  was 
aware  of  the  duke's  fickle  temper,  and  made  no 
doubt  that  he  would  change  his  mind,  which  he 
accordingly  did;  but,  being  won  by  the  Pope,  he 
bribed  the  messenger  (that  was  sent  to  bring  him 

I  Mistress  to  the  Duke  de  Bourbon,  regent  after  the 
death  of  the  Duke  of  Orleans. 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  213 

back)  to  return  and  pretend  he  was  already  in  Rome 
before  he  reached  him,  and  thus  the  abdication 
took  place.  But  the  ambassador  durst  not  go 
back  to  Urbino;  and  the  Pope,  whose  interests 
he  had  served,  made  him  senator  of  Rome,  and 
his  son  was  afterwards  Pope  Clement  XI.  The 
present  Pope's  functions  are  mostly  performed  by 
Cardinal  Albani. 

Villa  Pamphili  is  the  finest  of  all  the  villas 
for  rural  beauty;  there  is  one  charming  meadow 
in  it,  surrounded  with  stone  pines. 


Rome,  July,   1778. 

On  the  28th  of  last  month,  the  Constable  of 
Naples,  Colonna,  presented  the  white  horses,  as  a 
tribute  from  the  King  of  Naples,  to  the  Pope. 
The  procession  of  his  coaches  was  grand,  but  the 
ceremony  in  the  church  was  performed  in  a  very 
hurried  manner,  it  being  so  crowded  that  the  Pope 
and  Constable  had  scarce  room  for  their  business. 

At  sunset  the  cupola  of  St.  Peter's  was  illu- 
minated with  paper  lamps  and  large  pots  of  fire, 
which  continued  to  blaze  most  part  of  the  night. 
It  was  the  finest  sight  of  the  kind  I  ever  beheld. 
We  saw  the  fireworks  of  Castel  St.  Angelo,  which 
were  very  fine,  from  the  apartments  of  Marquis 
Rossi.     The  next  day  being  St.  Peter's,  the  church 


214  LETTERS     FROM     THB 

was  richly  bedecked  ;  St.  Peter's  statue  was  robed 
in  cloth  of  gold  ;  fine  gold  chandeliers  were  placed 
on  the  steps  of  the  altar.  There  was  a  brilliant 
illumination  there  that  night,  as  well  as  at  the 
castle  and  at  the  Constable's.  The  appearance 
was  very  grand. 

We  have  had  the  Piazza  Navona  overflowed 
in  part,  and  coaches  drove  about  it  all  night  ;  few 
go  thither  now,  but  it  was  formerly  much  resorted 
to.  The  Pope  ordered  the  water  to  be  let  off  at 
nightfall,  which  has  spoiled  all  the  sport.  The 
custom  began  under  Innocent  X.,  when  Donna 
Olympia,  his  sister-in-law,  who  received  company 
every  Sunday,  had  the  Piazza  filled  with  water, 
to  refresh  the  air  in  August. 

Many  English  are  at  Rome  ;  among  others, 
the  famous  Duchess  of  Kingston,  alias  Countess  of 
Bristol,  alias  Miss  Chudleigh  ;  also  Mr.  Howard, 
an  excellent  philanthropist,  who  makes  it  the 
business  of  his  life  to  travel  for  the  sake  of  in- 
specting prisons,  and  spends  his  fortune  and  time 
in  the  service  of  the  unfortunate  ;  Lady  Catherine 
and  the  Miss  Beauclercs,  Lord  and  Lady  Lucan, 
and  the  two  Misses  Bingham,  the  Bishop  of 
Derry,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  King,  the  Herveys,  Pitts, 
Moles  worths,  &c. 

The     Duke    and     Duchess    of    Lucciano     are 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  2I5 

arrived,  being  on  their  travels  by  order  of  the 
Neapolitan  Court.  It  is  said  the  reason  of  their  exile 
is  the  Queen  having  found  a  billet  from  the  duchess 
in  the  King's  pocket,  in  which  she  upbraided  him 
for  being  led  by  the  nose  by  the  Queen. 

We  v^ere  yesterday  at  a  grand  dinner  given 
by  the  Maltese  ambassador,  in  consequence  of  the 
ceremony  of  the  Pope's  blessing  the  stucco  or 
helmet  of  the  Grand  Master  of  Malta. 

I  was  present  during  divine  service  a  few  days 
ago  at  the  Greek  church.  They  say  mass  behind 
a  screen  with  three  doors  in  it.  Mr.  Sennett,  an 
Irish  abbé,  who  went  with  me,  remarked  after- 
wards to  Mrs.  Swinburne  that  it  was  all  said  in 
Greek,  except  the  Kyrie  EleisoUy  which  was  in 
Latin  !  He  is  a  capital  one  for  Irishisms.  He 
told  us  some  English  lady  (I  forget  who)  was 
come  to  Rome  on  purpose  to  sit  to  Battoni  for 
her  son's  picture;  and  assured  me  solemnly  that 
my  new  servant  was  very  likely  to  shoot  me.  You 
may  imagine  how  I  was  startled,  but  I  suppose 
you  are  aware  that  he  meant  suit.  He  is  very 
unhappy  just  now,  with  remorse  for  having  refused 
alms  to  a  famous  beggar  on  the  steps  of  St. 
Peter's,  who  is  just  dead,  and  turns  out  to  be  a 
saint,  and  is  to  be  canonised. 

Apropos  of  Irishmen,  I  find  there  has  been  a 


2l6  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

cardinal  of  every  nation  except  an  Irish  one;  per- 
haps lest  he  should  encroach  upon  the  authority 
of  the  Pope  in  making  bulls. 

Having  obtained  permission  to  inspect  the 
manuscripts  in  the  library  of  the  Vatican,  I  saw 
Henry  VIII.'s  letter  to  his  mistress,  in  French 
and  in  English;  legible  enough,  but  very  nonsen- 
sical. The  Christian  museum  is  curious  ;  also  a 
fine  hall  of  the  Papyri  for  reading  in,  the  ceiling 
painted  by  Mengs  ;  a  collection  of  medallions  ; 
and  some  gold  ones  of  Louis  XV. 

We  see  much  of  Lady  Lucan  and  her  daugh- 
ters, who  are  very  accomplished — sing  charmingly 
and  paint  well,  which  she  herself  does  likewise. 
There  is  a  Lady  and  Miss  Knight  here,  the  latter 
a  bel  esprit,  clever  and  learned.  Her  mother  is 
quite  the  contrary;  she  is  always  making  mis- 
takes which  are  very  amusing — she  addressed  the 
bust  of  Numa  (whom,  firom  the  termination  of  the 
name,  and  firom  the  veil  it  wears,  she  took  for  a 
female),  with  "  Your  most  obedient,  Mrs.  Numa." 
She  talks  of  the  romantic  groves  where  Tasso 
composed  his  Ariosto,  and  of  the  extraordinary 
circumstance  of  a  church  having  been  erected  in 
honour  of  St.  John's  latter  end} 

I  Lady  Knight's  mistake  was  not  more  comical  than 
that  of  the  French  tourist  who  called  it  St.  Jean  des  Latrines, 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  21J 

I  have  taken  a  view  of  Rome  from  Monte 
Testuccio,  which  hill  is  one  of  the  greatest  curi- 
osities I  know.  If  all  the  pottery -ware  of  the 
town  were  brought  hither  and  broken,  it  would 
not  make  such  another  heap.  It  must  be  a  pro- 
duction of  the  lower  ages,  for  there  have  been 
found  in  it  at  a  great  depth  two  sarcophagi,  of 
the  time  of  Adrian.  It  was  probably  formed  by 
some  Pope  or  Christian  Emperor  ordering  all  the 
pagan  urns  to  be  broken  and  thrown  near  it.  The 
prospect  from  it  is  beautiful. 

I  have  seen  some  men  play  at  the  ancient 
discus,  a  large  flat  round  wooden  thing,  with  a 
groove  all  round  the  edge  ;  in  this  they  put  a  cord, 
and  set  it  off  underhand  by  a  jerk;  they  seem  to 
play  for  length  at  long  bowls. 

We  dined  yesterday  at  the  Capitol  with  the 
Senator,  Prince  Rezzonico,  nephew  to  Clement 
XIII.,  in  company  with  Cardinal  Rezzonico, 
Baronessa  Gavotta,  ambassadress  of  Bologna, 
Marchesa  Lepri,  Monsignor  Pignatelli,  Comte  de 
Chatelet,  and  some  prelates  and  abbaies,  which 
latter  are  in  abundance  here.  Where  the  Sena- 
tor's house  is,  was  the  posterna  publica,  of  which 
the  solids  of  the  pillars  remain  ;  close  by  are  three 
columns  of  Jupiter  Tonans,  of  most  exquisite 
architecture,   a  work  finished   to   a   surprising   de- 


2l8  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

gree  of  nicety.  Augustus  erected  this  temple  after 
his  Spanish  expedition,  because,  when  travelling 
in  the  night,  his  litter  and  torch -bearer  were 
struck  with  lightning,  and  himself  remained  un- 
hurt. 

Below,  on  the  west  of  Severus's  arch,  are  the 
dungeons  of  the  Pallian  prisons,  now  converted 
into  chapels  ;  as  it  is  supposed  St.  Peter  was 
chained  there,  and  that  the  well  in  the  bottom 
one  sprang  up  miraculously,  to  assist  him  in 
baptizing  his  guards.  The  Gemonian  stairs  were 
adjoining.^  The  two  twin  deities  holding  the 
horses  at  the  top  of  the  steps  represented  Caius 
and  Lucius  Caesar,  Augustus's  grandchildren. 

Having  carried  my  little  girl  to  Tivoli  for 
change  of  air,  I  took  the  opportunity  of  riding 
towards  the  site  of  Horace's  villa,  described  by 
Abbé  Chaupy.  We  passed  over  low  hills,  seem- 
ingly volcanelliy  like  Montenuovo,  heaps  of  lava, 
peperino,  cinders,  and  some  ruins  of  the  Via 
Valeria.  Casteldama  is  situated  upon  a  high  hill, 
crowned  with  olive,  oak,  or  chesnut,  a  handsome 
object  over  the  Teverone.  Turning  into  hollow 
valleys  and  a  narrow  course  of  the  river,  we  came 
to  a  view  of  Vico  Varo,  the  Varia,  where  Horace's 

I  It  was  from  the  top  of  these  stairs  that  the  bodies 
of  malefactors  were  cast  down  to  be  devoured  by  dogs. 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  219 

five  peasants  went  to  attend  the  meeting  of  the 
magistrates.  The  situation  of  the  town,  which 
belongs  to  the  Bolognesi,  is  delightful.  About 
eight  miles  from  Tivoli  the  vale  of  Licenza  takes 
up  the  course  of  a  small  brook  or  river  to  Licenza, 
formerly  called  Digentia. 

At  the  confluence  of  the  Teverone  is  San 
Cosimato,  a  romantic  convent  on  a  hill.  In  the 
angle  where  these  valleys  meet,  stand  Cantalupo 
and  Bardillo,  the  ancient  rugosus  Pagus  Mandela, 
Then  following  up  this  riotous  little  torrent,  I 
came  to  the  Castello  of  Rocca  Giovane,  perched 
upon  a  rock.  The  vale  then  widens  into  a  kind 
of  plain,  planted  with  poplars,  vines,  and  fruit 
trees,  and  in  front  is  the  village  of  Licenza,  on 
a  peaked  rock,  half  hid  by  a  chesnut  wood, 
which  forms  the  extremity  of  a  ridge  of  fine  culti- 
vated grounds,  joining  Monte  Gennaro  (Lucretilis), 
near  which  was  Horace's  bathing  pavilion. 

The  temple  of  Vacuna  stood  on  the  side  of  an 
opposite  hill,  where  its  ruins  are  still  to  be  seen. 
Fine  small  meadows,  with  noble  walnut  and  oak 
scattered  over  them,  render  this  a  beautiful  place 
to  spend  a  summer's  day  in  ;  the  Ratini,  or 
Horace's  fountain,  rises  in  the  middle,  which 
the  Orsini  proprietors  have  collected  in  a  basin 
and  brought  into  a  cascade.     The  fountain  springs 


220  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

out  high  up  the  mountain,  and  is  always  abun- 
dant, sometimes  committing  great  disorders,  and 
tinging  everything  of  a  whitish  clay  colour. 

On  a  line  with  the  cascade,  on  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  is  a  platform  near  the  little  casino  of  Orsini. 
Here  stood  the  main  body  of  Horace's  house,  and 
from  the  plan  one  may  imagine  that  his  baths 
were  at  the  extremity  of  his  garden,  on  the  flat 
top  of  the  long  ridge.  I  saw  two  bits  of  column 
and  of  a  capital  or  cornice  ;  there  are  many  pieces 
of  blue  and  red  stucco  in  the  ruins  of  the  pavilion. 
Abbé  Chaupy's  description  is  very  accurate.  It 
must  have  been  a  charming  summer  retreat, 
literally  a  latebra  ;  for,  till  you  have  advanced  a 
mile  or  two  up  the  valley,  you  can  see  nothing 
even  of  Licenza,  nor  suspect,  when  looking  from 
the  Via  Valeria,  that  any  such  beautiful  spot 
exists.  On  my  return  to  Rome,  I  found  it  many 
degrees  hotter  than  Tivoli. 

The  churches  called  Basilica  are  those  which 
were  originally  palaces.  In  all  these  there  was 
a  hall  of  judgment,  as  every  patrician  had  one 
in  his  house  for  the  use  of  his  clients;  all  the 
ancient  kings  were  lawgivers  and  interpreters, 
therefore  the  courts  of  justice  were  held  in  their 
palaces. 

The  Palatine  hill  was,  till  lately,  occupied  by 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  221 

the  Orti  Farnesiani  and  the  Villa  Magnanî,  both 
of  which  have  been  destroyed  to  dig  for  the  antiqui- 
ties and  bricks  of  the  golden  house  of  Nero.  The 
latter  is  now  the  property  of  the  present  French 
king's  valet  de  chambre,  Laborde,  or  rather  of 
Madame  du  Barri,  for  whom  it  was  bought.  The 
view  from  the  hill  is  fine,  as  it  commands  almost 
every  considerable  object.  Under  some  clumps  of 
evergreen  oaks,  they  have  collected  many  pieces  of 
cornices,  &c.,  formerly  ornaments  of  the  imperial 
halls  ;  they  are  finely  wrought,  and  very  curiously 
finished.  One  may  easily  trace  the  origin  of  the 
Ionic  capital  firom  this  sample.  Suppose  the  first 
builder  to  have  erected  a  cork  tree  to  support  his 
roof,  and  finding  it  not  stand  even,  put  a  piece  of 
the  bark  at  top  to  make  it  level  :  dryness  made  the 
bark  curl  downwards,  which  thus  gave  the  curves  of 
the  capital  ;  the  angular  volute  was  probably  taken 
firom  a  ram's  head,  and  acanthus  grows  in  plenty 
in  their  gardens. 

There  were  two  hippodromes  ;  one  is  still  entire, 
with  a  music-room  in  the  middle  of  its  length.  One 
of  these  opened  into  magnificent  baths,  now  far 
underground:  the  ceiling  is  gilded  and  painted, 
and  is  still  very  firesh.  There  are  many  remains 
of  underground  apartments. 

Between  the   Palatine  and  Aventine  hills  was 


222  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  Circus  Maximus  ;  the  Emperor  could  enjoy  the 
spectacle  from  his  palace,  and  the  seats  were  dis- 
posed against  the  terrace  and  slopes  of  the  hills. 
Julius  Csesar  was  the  first  who  had  permanent  seats 
made;  before  him  each  person  erected  booths  and 
scaffolds,  which  his  family  occupied  or  let. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  were  the  temple  of 
Neptune  and  altar  of  Hercules,  where  Evander 
was  sacrificing  when  iEneas  came,  and  from 
whence  (the  only  place  it  can  be  done  from)  he 
showed  him  the  different  hills  of  Rome. 

"  Miratur,  facilisqu    oculos  fert  omnia  circum, 
iEneas,  capiturque  locis." 

Near  this  is  the  fountain  of  Juturna,  sister  to 
Turnus,  King  of  the  Rutuli,  whom  Jupiter  changed 
into  a  fountain  for  rejecting  his  addresses.  The 
twin  founders  were  discovered  at  this  place,  and 
near  the  spot  where  their  temple  afterwards  stood, 
Castor  and  Pollux  were  seen  watering  their  horseS; 
after  assisting  the  Romans  in  the  battle  of  Lake 
Regillus, 


Rome,  Jan,  8th,  1779. 

Since  the  dreadful  loss  I  met  with  of  my  angelic 
child,^   I   have  been  thoroughly  incapacitated   from 

I  A  fine  boy,  who  fell  a  victim  to  the  malaria. 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  223 

continuing  any  correspondence,  or  troubling  myself 
with  any  of  the  occurrences  around  me.  We  have 
since  learnt  the  death  of  the  eldest  Prince  of  Naples, 
which  has  plunged  his  mother  into  the  greatest 
affliction.  He  was  a  sweet  boy  of  four  years  old, 
courteous  and  clever  in  all  his  httle  actions,  but 
weakened  by  too  much  care.  He  was  the  favourite 
of  both  his  father  and  his  mother. 

The  letter  we  have  received  on  the  subject  from 
Lady  Hamilton  contains  this  remarkable  passage  : 
"Never  was  anything  more  terrible  than  the  com- 
bination of  accidents  which  contributed  to  make 
the  scene  of  the  death  of  the  Hereditary  Prince  of 
Naples  more  horrible.  The  Queen  did  not  suspect 
his  danger  till  the  moment  the  physicians  declared 
there  were  no  hopes,  at  which  news  one  of  the 
women,  going  to  call  the  King,  dropped  down  in 
convulsions;  her  companion  fell  into  the  same 
state,  and  they  could  not  be  removed  out  of  the 
Queen's  hearing.  Six  men  could  not  hold  them, 
and  at  that  moment  one  of  these  was  struck  with 
apoplexy.  It  blew  a  dreadful  hurricane  from  the 
mountains,  the  roof  of  the  house  took  fire,  and  to 
add  to  the  distress  and  danger,  all  the  corridors 
had  been  filled  with  hay  to  prevent  noise." 

Sympathy  of  feeling  has   induced  my  wife   to 
rouse    from    the    lethargy    of   grief    she    has   been 


224  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

plunged  in  these  last  four  months,  and  for  the  first 
time  since  her  affliction  to  take  a  pen  in  her  hand, 
to  write  a  letter  of  condolence  to  the  Queen,  who 
just  before  this  death  sent  some  kind  messages  to 
her  through  Lady  Hamilton  on  the  illness  of  our 
little  boy.  I  enclose  you  a  copy  of  Her  Majesty's 
answer. 

I  have  been  staying  a  few  days  in  the  country 
with  Count  Gastaldi,  at  Monte  Rotondo,  fifteen 
miles  up  the  Tiber,  which  is  an  agreeable  mixture 
of  hill  and  dale.  The  views  are  fine  on  the  river, 
and  extend  over  the  plains  towards  Monte  San 
Gennaro,  Tivoli,  and  Palestrina.  We  rode  through 
vineyards  and  villa  gardens  to  Lamentana,  the 
ancient  Nomentum,  a  small  place  with  a  large 
palace  of  Prince  Borghese  (Salentinae)  on  the  brow 
of  a  hill.  Then  to  Ponte  Lamentana,  on  the 
Anio,  where  the  Prince  has  some  game  preserves 
in  his  noble  hanging  woods. 

I  have  formed  an  acquaintance  with  the  Car- 
dinal de  Bernis,  who  is  a  clever  man,  and  has  seen 
much  of  the  world.  His  exterior  is  pleasing,  and 
his  manners  agreeable.  When  very  young,  and  an 
abbé,  he  solicited  preferment,  and  for  that  purpose 
begged  an  audience  of  the  Cardinal  de  Fleury,  the 
minister  and  ruler  of  France.  That  minister  hap- 
pened to  have  taken  a  great  dislike  to  him,  and  said 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  225 

very  crossly,  "  Monsieur  l'abbé,  vos  sollicitations  sont 
inutiles,  et  soyez  sur  que  vous  n'aurez  rien  durant 
ma  vie."  "  J'attendrai,  Monseigneur,"  was  his 
reply.  Nor  did  he  wait  in  vain,  for  he  was  in 
course  of  time  raised  to  the  post  of  minister  of 
foreign  affairs,  but  afterwards  disgraced  in  conse- 
quence of  a  quarrel  he  had  with  Madame  de 
Pompadour,  who  had  till  then  been  his  bene- 
factress. He  was  succeeded  by  the  Duke  de 
Choiseul. 

The  Duchess  de  Noailles  has  left  Rome  to 
return  to  Paris,  having  finished  her  journey, 
undertaken  for  the  purpose  of  speaking  to  the 
Pope  on  the  subject  of  the  Jesuits.  Mr.  Jenkins 
tells  me  he  has  seen  a  letter  from  their  principal 
at  Vienna  to  Ricci  (the  general  of  the  Jesuits), 
who  had  great  confidence  in  the  justice  and  piety 
of  Marie  Thérèse,  and  thought  she  would  prove 
a  buckler  to  the  Order  in  their  distress,  and 
resist  the  attempts  of  the  French  cabinet  for  its 
destruction.  His  correspondent  answered  his  hopes 
thus  :  "  Depend  not  upon  her,  for  if  every  drop 
of  blood  of  the  Jesuits  were  demanded,  and 
necessary  for  the  marriage  of  her  daughters,  she 
would  without  hesitation  spill  it  !  " 

The  frost  now  at  Rome  is  prodigious  ;  I 
walked   on   a   pool   of  water   quite   hard,    and   the 

VOL.  I  15 


226  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

fountains  on  the  hill  of  St.  John  are  full  of  icicles. 
The  travellers  for  Naples  have  been  detained  at 
San  Marino  by  the  snows  of  La  Faiola. 

Last  month  and  October,  which  is  the  villeg- 
giatura  season  here,  there  were  great  fêtes  at  the 
casino  of  Villa  Borghese;  I  did  not  go  to  them, 
but  heard  from  those  who  did  that  it  was  very 
splendid  and  agreeable.  The  Prince  gave  music 
and  refreshments  there,  with  many  sorts  of  diver- 
sions, such  as  tilting  at  the  ring,  and  grand  balls 
in  the  evening.  There  is  an  inscription  there  of 
Cardinal  Scipio's  putting  up,  which  gives  leave 
to  all  comers  to  do  what  they  please  there,  as 
the  gardens  are  more  for  the  public  than  the 
master.  It  is  near  the  bust  of  an  Emperor,  which 
I  take  to  be  Adrian,  with  a  curled  head,  and  his 
hair  turned  back  and  twisted  on  the  crown  like 
that  of  a  woman. 

The  Borghese  Palace  has  a  vast  collection  of 
pictures,  and  not  a  good  room  in  it;  it  is  built 
in  the  shape  of  a  harpsichord. 

I  was  persuaded  some  nights  ago  to  attend 
the  opera  at  the  Argentina.  It  was  Adriano 
in  SiriUy  the  music  bad,  and  the  theatre  dirty, 
cold,  and  dark,  with  a  great  show  of  diamonds 
in  the  boxes.  Monsignor  Spinelli  had  pubUshed 
an    edict,    prohibiting    any     clapping     or     hissmg, 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  227 

which  kept  all  as  still  as  a  mouse,  contrary  to 
the  custom  of  preceding  years,  when  there  was 
nothing  but  riot  and  confusion,  the  men  standing 
up  in  the  pit,  waving  handkerchiefs,  and  the  ladies 
holding  out  their  cloaks  as  flags  of  triumph.  The 
music  was  so  dull,  that  I  thought  this  universal 
silence  and  attention  rather  de  trop.  The  singers, 
however,  were  good;  Ronca  was  the  prima,  and 
David  the  tenor.  He  sang  so  well  that  he  was 
applauded  by  the  governor,  who,  having  tried  the 
dastardly  spirit  of  the  Romans,  enjoyed  his  victory, 
and  gave  leave  to  clap  twice.  The  dancers  are 
horrid  jumping  things,  and  the  fellows  in  women's 
clothes  (for  females  are  not  here  allowed  to  exhibit 
on  the  stage)  are  too  ridiculous. 

The  Irish  Dominicans  have  made  an  excava- 
tion at  Santo  Sisto,  which  I  walked  to  see.  They 
have  found  a  rough  column,  consisting  of  a  very 
valuable  piece  of  Giallo  Antico.  The  saw  was  in 
it,  and  had  already  cut  off  a  large  slice;  they 
value  it  at  four  thousand  crowns;  also  fine  slabs 
of  porphyry  and  green  marble;  nothing  is  at  pre- 
sent in  hand  for  St.  Peter's,  in  the  shape  of 
mosaics.  There  are  fifteen  thousand  colours  among 
the  pastes  in  the  magazines  ;  one  man  alone  has 
the  secret  of  making  them,  and  he  has  only  im- 
parted it  to  his  sons. 

15—2 


228  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

The  origin  of  the  story  of  St.  Luke  having 
been  a  painter  is,  that  about  the  time  of  the  taking 
of  Constantinople  by  Mahomet  IL,  the  most 
famous  painter  of  Madonnas  was  one  Luke,  and 
he  being  looked  upon  as  a  holy  man,  perhaps  a 
martyr,  his  pictures  came  to  be  held  in  high  esti- 
mation, and  he  was  very  soon  confounded  by  the 
barbarous  western  devotees  with  his  namesake  the 
Evangelist. 

That  wonderful  picture,  the  Transfiguration,  is 
at  San  Pietro,  in  Montorio.  No  miniature  can  be 
more  highly  finished,  nor  can  anything  be  more 
admirable,  or  better  connected,  in  spite  of  all  the 
French  criticisms  on  this  last  work  of  Raphael. 
It  was  done  for  France,  but  stopped  by  the  Medici 
family,  and  given  to  the  Church.  At  Raphael's 
funeral  this  exquisite  work  of  his  was  carried  in 
procession.  Its  preservation  is  very  good,  and  being 
on  the  high  altar  the  light  is  favourable.  Another 
favourite  picture  of  mine  is  Guido's  Madonna,  at 
the  Bolognesi  Palace  ;  its  wonderful  expression  of 
devotion  and  inward  pleasure  is  most  admirable. 

A  story  concerning  the  Duke  Mattei  is  much 
talked  of.  In  rummaging  over  his  family  papers, 
he  found,  in  the  handwriting  of  one  of  his  ances- 
tors, a  note,  which  gave  the  following  renseigne- 
ment : — **  Go   to    the    garden,    and    so    many    feet 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  239 

from  such  a  corner  you  will  find  a  bronze  nail 
driven  into  the  wall  ;  take  it  out,  and  behind 
that  place  you  will  see  a  bronze  key,  with  which 
open  a  door  that  you  will  find  built  up  so  many 
yards  north  of  the  nail  ;  enter  this  door,  and  go 
down  the  ten  steps  ;  you  will  then  come  to  another 
door,  which  the  key  will  open,  and  this  leads  to 
a  long  gallery.  You  must  then  break  open  the 
wall  at  the  bottom,  and  in  a  niche  behind  it  you 
will  discover  very  considerable  treasures  of  my 
hiding." 

The  Duke  went  immediately  to  the  garden  ;  to 
his  great  joy  found  the  nail,  and  set  to  work 
with  great  secrecy  to  discover  the  rest.  By  the 
truth  of  the  second  and  third  circumstances,  he 
judged  of  the  certainty  of  the  rest;  and  having 
associated  proper  persons,  and  enjoined  caution 
and  secrecy,  proceeded  in  his  excavation.  Every- 
thing answered  to  the  directions,  and  when  they 
came  to  the  last  wall,  they  broke  it  down,  with 
the  full  confidence  that  their  labours  would  be 
crowned  with  success;  when  behold,  in  the  niche 
was  an  enormous  pair  of  horns,  which  the  jocose 
ancestor  had  placed  there. 

Under  the  Palazzo  Massimi  great  treasures 
are  supposed  to  be  hid,  because  in  the  sack  of 
Rome   the   principal   Romans   carried   their   wealth 


230  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

thither,  and  walled  it  up  in  the  cellars  under- 
neath; they  have  attempted  to  open  these  vaults, 
but  the  level  of  the  water  is  now  so  much  above 
that  of  the  floor  that  they  have  never  been  able 
to  proceed. 


From  the  Queen  of  Naples  to  Mrs,  Swinburne, 

Madame, — La  consolation  que  je  ressens  du 
rétablissement  de  votre  cher  et  aimable  fils  m'anime 
à  vous  écrire.  J'ai  voulu  le  faire  il  y  a  quelques 
mois,  pour  vous  assurer  du  vif  intérêt  que  je 
prenois  à  tout  ce  qui  vous  regarde  ;  je  n'ai  jamais 
eu  le  courage  de  rouvrir  votre  playe  par  des  inutiles 
consolations,  et  j'en  ai  gémi  en  silence,  me  con- 
tentant de  m'informer  de  votre  santé,  avec  cet 
intérêt  et  amitié  que  vos  estimables  qualités  m'ont 
inspiré  pour  votre  digne  personne. 

A  présent,  que  par  le  plus  affreux  des  malheurs, 
j'ai  éprouvé  quelle  douleur  c'est  pour  une  mère 
de  perdre  son  enfant  chéri,  celui  sur  lequel  elle 
fonde  toutes  ses  espérances,  consolations  et  com- 
plaisances. J'ai  été  d'autant  plus  sensible  à  la 
maladie  du  charmant  Henry,  et  infiniment  con- 
solé de  son  rétablissement.  Que  Dieu  vous  bénisse 
et  votre  charmante  famille,  vous  le  méritez,  étant 
si  digne  et  bonne  mère  ;    comme  telle,  je   suis  sûre 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  23I 

que  vous  aurez  eu  compassion  du  coup  affreux 
qui  m'a  enlevé  mon  cher,  beau,  et  parfait  Charles. 
Cet  enfant  était  d'une  santé  parfaite,  augmenté 
en  beauté  et  capacité,  et  parfaitement  robuste.  En 
moins  de  60  heures  je  l'ai  perdu.  Ce  sont  de  ces 
douleurs  qui  anéantissent.  Vous  en  comprendrez 
toute  la  force,  et  me  plaindrez;  mais  j'oublie  que 
je  n'ai  écrite  celle-cy,  que  pour  vous  assurer  de 
ma  satisfaction  sur  le  retour  de  la  santé  du  cher 
Henry,  et  point  pour  renouveller  votre  juste 
douleur  en  vous  parlant  de  la  mienne;  mais  c'est 
que  ne  pensant  à  autre  chose  j'y  reviens  toujours. 
Saluez  de  ma  part  votre  aimable  époux;  j'em- 
brasse la  chère  Fanny  et  le  beau  Henry:  soyez 
sure,  madame,  que  je  suis,  avec  une  véritable 
estime. 

Votre  très  aflfectionêe  amie, 

Charlotte  H.  N. 


Rome,  February  Sth,  1779. 

We  have  great  crowds  and  regularity  on  the 
Corso,  but  no  show.  The  Maltese  ambassador 
makes  use  of  his  privilege,  and  drives  down  the 
middle  of  the  street.  The  Zagorolo  and  Ceri 
families  were  dressed  like  Turks,  in  blue  and 
white  ;    the    other    masks    were    vulgar.      I    think 


232  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

little  of  this  famous  sight.  Prince  Pirratino  went 
out  of  his  place,  and  was  fined  very  smartly;  the 
officer  on  duty  was  sent  to  prison  for  permitting 
it — a  good  sample  of  Governor  Spinelli's  spirit. 

The  masquerade  at  the  Teatro  Aliberti  was 
well  lighted  up,  with  very  few  good  masks;  some 
figures  of  Terminus  Pan  not  amiss.  The  American 
provinces  were  represented  by  thirteen  men  and 
women,  meant  for  Quakers,  dressed  in  round 
pink  hats,  encircled  with  ribbons,  on  which  were 
inscribed  "M.W.M.C.,"  and  '^devinez'*;  short  coats, 
white  and  pink,  with  slashed  sleeves.  The  men 
wore  long  beards.  They  gave  away  English  en- 
gravings, of  an  angel  breaking  the  chains  of  a 
negro.  There  was  no  fun,  no  noise,  no  gaiety, 
no  humorous  characters.  These  entertainments 
do  not  begin  till  midnight,  after  supper. 

We  went  last  evening  to  the  Torredinoni 
theatre,  near  the  Ponte  St.  Angelo.  It  was  the 
siege  of  Jerusalem  by  the  Crusaders,  intermixed 
with  humours  of  Punch  and  Briscotto,  who  being 
both  in  love  with  Armida's  maid,  they  cut  cards 
for  her,  then  fought,  and  Punch  lopped  off  his  an- 
tagonist's arm,  leg,  and  head,  which  she  put  on 
again.  The  whole  of  this  motley  exhibition  is  too 
stupid  for  a  rational  creature  to  sit  out. 

We  have  had  an  elegant  dinner  at  the  Senator's, 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  233 

with  the  repetition  of  Salieri*s  new  opera  in  the 
evening.  Sir  Thomas  has  brought  us  the  Petroni 
collection  of  medals  from  Naples.  He  says  Lord 
Maynard,  having  attended  and  cured  the  Prince 
of  Marino  with  James's  powders,  has  made  Lady 
Maynard  quite  popular,  and  she  and  Santo  Marco 
are  great  friends.  We  have  had  a  pleasant  dinner 
at  Duke  Grimaldi's.  The  Duchess  of  Cori  and 
the   Misses   Bingham   sang  in   the   evening. 

Two  evenings  after,  the  Duke  gave  the  Inter- 
mezzi of  Valli,  by  Cimarosa,  to  a  very  splendid 
audience  of  cardinals  and  ladies  and  gentlemen 
in  masquerade  dresses,  in  the  theatre  of  his 
palace,   with   supper,   &c. 

The  festinos  here  are  crowded  and  brilliant, 
but  there  is  no  wit  or  drollery.  The  last  day 
of  the  carnival  the  people  walk  about  singing 
the  dirge  for  the  funeral  of  the  carnival,  the 
houses  being  all  illuminated. 

There    is    a    considerable     feud     among    the 

English.^       Lady     Susan     will     not     visit     Lady 

Berkeley.      The    latter    gave    a    ball,    and    many 

I  It  is  singular  that  at  all  periods,  English,  when  abroad, 
seem  to  enjoy  no  sport  so  much  as  that  of  quarrelling  with 
their  fellow  countrymen  and  women.  Go  where  one  will, 
to  Rome,  Paris,  Brussels,  or  elsewhere,  the  same  detestable 
system  of  backbiting,  defamation  and  illiberality  is  to  be  found. 
Never  did  any  nation  so  completely  depart  from  the  sensible 
and  charitable  proverb  of  "  Vivre  et  laisser  vivre." 


234  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

English  absented  themselves  ;  we  did  not,  for 
Mrs.  S.  is  the  friend  of  her  amiable  daughter 
Lady  Louisa,  who  is  very  musical  and  sings 
charmingly   to   the   harp. 

At  the  Duke  of  Ceri's  we  heard  a  can- 
tata of  Metastasio's  {La  pace  tra  la  vertu  e  la 
bellezza),  music  by  Boron,  the  singers  (amateurs) 
excellent. 

Lady  C.  Beauclerk  has  had  a  raffle  of  a 
bas-relief  of  Casper  and  Alcyone  by  Mr.  Bankes, 
which  I  won  and  gave  to  Sir  Thomas.  The 
Lucans  have  given  some  pleasant  dances. 

The  Pope  was  walking  to-day  through  the 
Piazza  di  Spagna,  and  I  was  struck  by  the 
majesty  of  his  figure.  They  say  he  is  very 
rich. 

I  went  with  some  Russians  to  see  the  statues 
of  the  Vatican  by  torchlight.  It  is  surprising 
what  a  different  effect  they  have,  and  how  much 
better  the  expression  and  merits  are  understood 
by  these  means,  than  when  seen  by  the  false 
lights  all  of  them  are  placed  in.  The  Apollo  is 
really  a  divinity. 

I  have  been  spending  my  mornings  in  the 
Vatican  library,  collating  Horace  for  Galiani,  and 
met  there  the  cosmopolite  and  his  family.  He 
is    the    king    of    the    mountebanks.       The    history 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC,  235 

of  this  charlatan  is  curious.  In  his  youth  he 
served  a  doctor  in  Peru,  and  was  heir  to  his 
secrets.  Afterwards  he  travelled  as  a  quack  over 
Europe  ;  then  into  the  East,  where  he  was  lucky 
enough  to  cure  the  scaldhead  of  some  bashaw  or 
nabob,  who  made  him  a  present  of  such  a  large 
sum  of  money  as  enabled  him  to  draw  12,000 
crowns  a  year  from  the  bank  of  Genoa,  where 
he  placed  the  capital.  He  travels  now  with  a 
superb  retinue,  merely  for  his  amusement;  has 
three  servants  on  horseback,  with  rich  red  liveries, 
and  sits  himself  in  a  gilt  coach.  Some  people 
think  he  has  found  the  philosopher's  stone. 

My  walk  to-day  was  out  of  Porto  San  Sebas- 
tiano,  where  the  meadows  are  pleasant.  Under 
a  little  hill  is  the  fountain  of  the  nymph  Egeria, 
an  arched  grotto,  picturesque  enough.  Near  this 
cave  is  the  church  of  St.  Urban,  evidently  a 
temple  of  Bacchus.  In  the  valley  not  far  off, 
near  the  rivulet,  is  a  brick  temple,  said  to  be 
erected  to  the  god  of  Ridicule,  to  deride  Hanni- 
bal for  approaching  thus  near  to  the  walls  of 
Rome.  Near  the  gate  of  St.  John  is  the  church 
of  Santa  Croce,  restored  and  spoilt  by  Benedict 
XIV.,  by  whose  order  the  porphyry  columns  were 
closed  up  in  huge  pilasters  and  arcades,  being 
the  barbarous  taste  of  Borromini's  school. 


236  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Rome,   March  2nd. 

I  can  now  give  you  an  account  of  an  excur- 
sion I  made  with  Sir  Thomas  to  Terni.  Our 
first  post  was  a  villa  of  Livia's.  The  hills  there 
are  naked  and  unpleasant,  and  the  air  pestilen- 
tial. The  Via  Flaminia  remains  entire  for  many 
miles,  and,  pour  le  malheur  des  voyageurs,  serves 
for  a  road  still.  Near  Castel  Nuovo  is  a  forest- 
like country  of  stunted  oaks,  with  an  immense 
view  over  Sabina  and  the  Campagna.  About 
Castel  Regnano  the  country  is  fine,  full  of  olives 
and  vines.  Thence  to  Civita  Castellana  is  a 
beautiful  country,  Mount  Soracte  or  St.  Oreste 
on  the  right  rising  up  singly  on  the  plain. 

Civita  is  the  ancient  Vici,  so  long  the  enemy 
of  Rome.  The  castle  was  built  by  Michael  Angelo, 
and  seems  a  large  magnificent  fortress,  like  Castle 
St.  Angelo,  at  Rome.  A  handsome  bridge  joins 
the  insulated  rock  to  the  country;  from  thence 
to  the  hill,  which  hangs  over  the  Tiber  at 
Borghetto,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  landscapes 
imaginable,  with  woods  and  groves  of  oaks, 
bounding  green  fields.  The  mountain  of  Viterbo 
is  on  the  left,  where  Capriola,  a  grand  palace,  is 
distinctly  seen,  though  ten  miles  off. 

At  Borghetto  we  crossed  the  river  at  the 
Ponte   Felice,   and  re-ascended    to   Otricoli,  which 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  237 

commands  a  wonderfully  fine  view,  with  all  the 
windings  of  the  Tiber,  and  a  multitude  of  houses 
on  the  heights,  hedges  of  pyracantha  in  berry, 
and  a  great  variety  of  landscape,  through  a  woody 
vale  to  Narni,  a  town  of  some  size  built  on  un- 
level  ground.  The  view  from  it  over  the  immense 
vale  of  Terni  is  magnificent.  The  Nera  winds 
so  very  intricately,  the  numberless  convents  and 
cottages  are  so  white  and  beautifully  placed,  the 
plains  so  richly  cultivated  and  wooded,  the  tints 
of  the  vines,  elms,  poplars,  so  various,  and  the 
mountains  of  such  different  hues  and  appear- 
ances, that  I  cannot  but  think  it  matchless. 

Ten  miles  of  low  roads  among  vineyards 
brought  us  to  Terni,  a  well-built  town  in  the 
plain,  very  thin  of  inhabitants.  The  palace  of 
the  Spada  is  its  most  showy  building.  The  walks 
about  it  are  pleasant,  and  the  rides  delightful. 

The  next  day  we  hired  horses,  and  rode  early, 
through  vineyards  and  olive  woods,  to  see  the 
famous  cascade.  On  the  way  we  came  to  a  turn 
where  we  had  a  pleasing  view  of  the  Nera,  as 
it  winds  out  of  the  mountains  between  two  very 
high  rocks.  A  couple  of  villas  at  the  bottom, 
with  their  orange  gardens,  enlivened  the  scene. 
The  village  of  Papilia  is  on  a  point  to  the 
right  ;  the  road    cut   up   on   the  rock,   and   a  ruin 


238  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

on  its  summit,  are  fine  additions.  By  a  steep 
winding  road  we  got  to  the  level  of  the  cascade, 
or  the  vale  of  Ricti.  The  rock  at  the  point  was 
blown  up,  and  the  passage  widened  round  it 
about  twenty  years  ago. 

We  crossed  a  kind  of  canal  cut  in  the  petri- 
faction which  is  upon  the  rocks,  and  were 
brought  by  our  cicerone,  a  ragged  tailor,  to  a 
point  where  we  had  a  near  view  of  the  tremen- 
dous fall,  being  on  its  left  side,  a  few  yards 
lower  than  the  level  of  the  top. 

The  Velino  rushes  out  of  a  long  canal  be- 
tween two  rocks  overshaded  with  wood,  and 
precipitates  itself  downwards  above  two  hundred 
feet,  with  several  lesser  falls,  before  it  comes  to 
the  Nera  in  the  valley.  It  is  wonderfully  fine. 
Unfortunately  there  was  not  much  water,  and  one 
side  was  dry;  but  there  was  enough  to  make  it 
a  noble  sight.  The  steam,  or  cloud,  arising  from 
it,  is  very  considerable,  and  everything  partakes 
of  the  petrifaction  that  is  sprinkled  by  it.  Very 
fine  sponges,  or  petrified  mushrooms,  are  found. 
I  got  a  piece  of  a  petrified  bough. 

This  cut  was  made  by  Curius  eighty-five 
years  before  Christ,  to  drain  the  vale  of  Ricti. 
There  is  a  sluice  of  iron  to  prevent  more  than  a 
certain    quantity  of  water   from   coming   over,   lest 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  239 

the  too  sudden  discharge,  at  certain  periods  of  the 
year,  should  lay  Rome  under  water.  At  that  time 
the  Velino  overflows  its  banks  prodigiously,  and 
does  a  great  deal  of  damage  ;  but  as  it  vents  part 
of  its  overplus  into  the  lake  of  Pie  di  Luco,  the 
harm  is  not  so  great  as  it  might  be. 

Having  seen  all  we  wished  at  the  cascade, 
we  rode  up  the  narrow  vale,  and,  coming  in  sight 
of  an  opening  in  the  mountains,  had  a  pretty 
peep  of  the  lake  through  the  trees. 

Desirous  of  spending  some  hours  of  a  most 
delicious  day  on  the  water,  we  dismounted,  and 
got  into  a  crazy  ferry-boat,  paddled  along  by  one 
man  with  two  shovels.  He  rowed  us  up  the 
canal  which  communicated  between  the  lake  and 
the  river.  The  waters  of  the  lake  are  clear,  but 
not  like  those  of  Keswick  ;  they  are  said  to  have 
a  petrifying  quality.  The  lake  is  deep,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  great  variety  of  lofty,  well-wooded 
mountains,  where  we  heard  the  noise  of  people 
hunting  wild  boar. 

Pie  di  Luco  stands  prettily  round  the  foot 
of  a  conical  hill,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  ruined 
castle.  The  fishery  is  abundant  in  tench,  pike, 
barbel,  and  trout  of  a  wonderful  size.  The  fish- 
ing in  nets  is  confined  to  the  proprietors,  but 
angling  with   lines   is   open   to    the    whole    world. 


240  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

People  row  about  in  slender  flat  boats,  scarcely 
sufficiently  fastened  to  be  safe. 

After  enjoying  the  charms  of  the  prospect,  and 
the  different  appearances  of  the  land  and  water, 
we  returned  to  Papilia,  where,  leaving  our  horses, 
we  crossed  the  bridge,  and  through  the  gardens  of 
a  ruined  villa  of  Count  Castellis,  we  trudged  up 
the  narrow  ridge,  along  the  water-side,  under  thick 
woods  and  impending  rocks,  till  we  came  in  full 
front  of  the  cascade.  Glorious  indeed!  but  from 
the  position  of  the  sun  we  had  no  rainbow;  the 
steam  or  cloud  was  driven  about  by  the  wind,  but 
as  no  rays  reached  it,  the  usual  phenomenon  was 
not  produced. 

There  is  a  curious  tradition  concerning  this  cas- 
cade having  been  formed  by  the  lava  of  the  neigh- 
bouring mountain  of  St.  Arcangelo,  which  throws 
back  the  Velino,  so  as  to  form  the  lake  of  Pie  di 
Luco.  What  great  antiquity  would  not  that  evince, 
as  it  was  in  the  time  of  the  Roman  Republic  that 
the  cut  was  made,  to  give  vent  to  the  Velino  I 

Our  horses  were  sent  down  to  meet  us,  and 
we  made  the  best  of  our  way  to  Terni.  We 
slept  at  Narni,  and  saw  the  bridge  built  by 
Augustus  over  the  Nar.  One  arch  is  entire,  of 
large  stones  without  mortar;  the  present  bridge 
looks  like  a  dwarf  near  it. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  24I 

TO    MRS.    S. 

Rome,  May  ^th. 

The  heat  was  insufferable  all  the  way  to 
Capua,  nor  did  I  once  look  out  on  the  country, 
as  I  usually  do,  or  make  any  remarks  ;  for  my 
thoughts  were  full  of  Naples,  and  the  dear  objects 
it  contained. 

We  supped  and  slept  at  St.  Agatha,  where  we 
met  two  ladies  who  looked  like  actresses.  They 
had  been  ordered  out  of  the  kingdom,  and  were 
on  their  road,  escorted  by  two  ministri} 

Sleeping  was  out  of  the  question,  for  my 
slumbers  were  disturbed  by  the  nightingales,  which 
made  a  dreadfully  loud  concert  all  night  under  my 
window.  You  will  compare  me  as  a  Vandal  to 
old  Walton,  who  complained  of  the  horrid  smell 
of  fresh  violets  in  the  fields  disturbing  the  scent 
for  the  hounds. 

Next  morning  we  crossed  the  ferry  of  the 
Garigliano,  the  tower  of  which  passage  stands 
near  the  ruins  of  Minturnae.  From  Mola  de 
Gaeta  we  took  a  boat  and  crossed  over  to  Gaeta, 
from  whence  the  view  is  noble  all  round,  especially 
the  orange  groves  of  Mola  and  Castiglione.  I 
was  better  able  to  enjoy  my  journey  than  the  day 

I  Officers  of  the  police. 
VOL.  I  16 


24a  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

before,  and  took  notes  as  I  went,  which  I  believe 
was  a  great  bore  to  my  companion,  qiti  ne  se 
soucie  pas  de  la  belle  Nature,  We  dined,  on  our 
arrival  here,  at  Mr.  Monson's  vineyard,  and  met 
several  people  we  knew.  All  Rome  is  in  distress 
at  the  death  of  the  Marchioness  de  Puymontbrun, 
niece  to  Cardinal  Bernis.     She  fell  a  victim  to  the 

small-pox.  .. 

Florence,  May  i^th. 

On  leaving  Rome  we  passed  through  the 
valley  of  Terni,  than  which  nothing  can  be  more 
refreshing  and  agreeable.  It  is  a  very  close  and 
winding  dale,  with  thick  young  woods  of  oak  and 
common  pine,  and  old  olive  trees.  Spoleto  may 
well  have  served  as  a  barrier  to  Rome  against 
Hannibal.  It  stands  on  the  slope  of  a  very  high 
round  rock.  A  river,  which  at  present  has  no 
water  in  it,  almost  makes  it  an  island.  Its  castle, 
where  the  governor  lodges,  is  on  the  top,  and 
water  is  conveyed  into  the  city  from  the  opposite 
mountains  by  an  aqueduct.  The  plain  begins  at 
the  low  town,  and  extends  beyond  Foligno. 

The  hills  behind  Spoleto  are  beautifully  wooded 
and  cultivated,  and  studded  with  convents  and 
casinos.  The  city  is  neatly  built,  and  well  enough 
paved.  In  the  middle  of  every  street  is  a  row  of 
bricks,  which  make  it  pleasant  walking. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  243 

As  soon  as  I  had  dined  I  took  a  ragged  cice- 
rone, and  walked  up  the  hill  to  see  the  curiosities 
of  the  place,  amongst  which  is  Porta  Fuga,  which 
stretches  across  a  street,  with  an  inscription  de- 
noting Hannibal  to  have  been  driven  from  this 
gate;  but  I  believe  it  is  a  piece  of  building  pos- 
terior to  the  Roman  empire.  There  is  an  arch 
dedicated  to  Tiberius. 

The  cathedral  was  shut,  and  the  sacristan 
asleep  ;  so  I  saw  nothing  of  it.  We  turned  off 
below  the  aqueduct,  which  at  present  conveys 
very  little  water.  It  is  on  many  narrow  arches 
of  a  most  stupendous  height.  Upon  the  woody 
mountain,  which  is  connected  with  the  town  by 
the  aqueduct,  are  a  convent  and  about  a  dozen 
hermitages,  called  Monte  Luco,  full  of  devotees. 
Those  in  the  hermitages  beg;  but  the  persons  in 
the  convent  are  in  easy  circumstances,  and  do 
not  make  vows.  The  situation  is  beautiful. 
Charles  Vernet  has  put  the  aqueduct  and  castle 
into  one  of  his  views  of  the  Apennines. 

Hence  to  Foligno,  the  mountain  on  our  right 
hand  is  full  of  villages,  convents,  and  country 
houses,  the  largest  of  which  belongs  to  a  Spoletan 
marquis.  At  a  place  called  Campetti,  a  few  yards 
beyond  the  post-house  at  Le  Vene,  so  called  from 
the    sources    of   the    Clitumnus,    a    small    ancient 

16 — 2 


244  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

chapel  on  the  rock  is  supposed  to  have  been 
dedicated  to  the  god  of  the  river.  In  the  early 
days  of  Christianity,  paganism  being  ousted,  it 
was  consecrated  to  Giesu  Salvatore.  Its  archi- 
tecture is  almost  Gothic.  Indeed,  the  Christians 
have  added  ornaments  in  the  solid  of  the  pedi- 
ment—  a  cross  and  grapes  in  flourishes.  These 
ornaments,  and  much  work  in  all  the  architecture, 
bespeak  a  decline  in  the  art.  Upon  the  whole, 
there  is  nothing  very  elegant  in  this  temple.  That 
of  the  Sibyl  at  Tivoli  had  quite  another  effect 
upon  me. 

Just  above  is  Perignano,  then  a  village  called 
Juri.  Foligno  in  the  plain  is  a  relief  to  the  eye, 
after  the  ups  and  downs  of  Spoleto.  Raphael's 
famous  picture  at  the  Comtesse  is  painted  on 
wood.  It  is  much  chipped,  as  if  burnt  by  the 
sun.  The  colours  are  lively.  The  Virgin  in  the 
clouds  is  very  beautiful;  the  cherubims  behind  her 
look  like  a  cloudy  sky.  Directly  under  her  is  a 
pretty  angel  holding  a  scroll;  behind,  a  landscape 
with  figures,  and  a  village  which  gives  a  crooked 
look  to  the  whole.  On  the  Virgin's  right  is  St. 
John  the  Baptist;  before  him  kneels  St.  Francis, 
marked  with  his  stigmates  ;  on  the  other  side  is 
a  bishop,  with  his  hand  on  the  head  of  a  man 
kneeling.     The   latter,   who   wears   a   scarlet   robe, 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,    ETC.  245 

and  tunic  lined  with  ermine,  is  supposed  to  be 
St.  Jerome  ;  but  that  is  impossible,  as  he  has  no 
beard,  and  no  lion  near  him.  It  is  probably 
some  cardinal  saint,  or  the  man  who  bespoke  the 
picture. 

The  cathedral  is  plain,  but  sufficiently  distin- 
guished. There  is  a  pretty  semicircular  walk  on 
the  ramparts,  with  seats,  from  which  one  has  a 
fine  view  of  the  country. 

The  better  sort  of  women  here  wear  blue  veils  ; 
the  peasants  wear  large  square  tovaglie  on  their 
heads,  with  a  double  white  veil  falling  very  low 
behind. 

We  went  on  to  Spillo,  the  ancient  Flaminia, 
and  to  La  Madonna  degli  Angeli,  a  large  convent 
of  Franciscans,  who  have  a  vast  chapel  and  cupola. 
In  the  middle  is  the  house  of  their  founder. 

I  walked  two  miles  up  to  Assisi,  a  large  town 
on  the  side  of  a  steep  mountain,  with  a  great 
patriarchal  convent  about  the  middle  of  the  ascent. 
It  has  a  noble  refectory  with  a  large  "  Last  Supper" 
by  Salernino.  There  are  eighty  friars.  In  the  upper 
part  of  the  town  is  the  front  of  a  temple  of  Minerva, 
now  a  church.  This  antiquity  consists  of  six  fluted 
Corinthian  columns,  on  separate  bases,  or  steps 
between  each.  It  is  a  precious  monument,  a 
pleasing    piece    of   architecture.      I   wonder   at   its 


246  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

being  so  little  known  or  copied,  for  I  have  never 
seen  a  print  or  drawing  of  it. 

A  hilly  road  brought  us  to  Perugia,  which 
stands  in  the  form  of  a  star,  on  the  crown  of  a 
very  high  eminence.  The  streets  are  large,  the 
buildings  showy  ;  the  sa7ito  anello,  or  wedding  ring 
of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  their  grand  relic,  being  ex- 
posed for  rain,  made  the  Domo  a  place  of  general 
resort  that  morning,  and  most  of  the  pictures 
were  covered  with  damask  hangings.  The  beauti- 
ful "  Descent  from  the  Cross,"  by  Barbiero,  was 
luckily  not  among  the  number  of  cl-othed  ones,  and 
a  wonderful  picture  it  is.  Abbé  Tonelli,  the  cice- 
rone, joined  us  and  took  us  to  the  Cambio,  a  kind 
of  exchange,  low  and  dark,  all  painted  by  Pietro 
Perrugino,  with  many  admirable  figures  and  fine 
colours.  There  are  also  at  St.  Agostino's  many 
chefs  d' œuvre  by  the  same  hand;  and  a  billet  of 
his  writing  is  kept  in  the  sacristy,  very  ill  written 
and  ill  spelt.  At  the  Nuns  of  Monteleone  is  an 
"Assumption,"  supposed  to  be  by  Raphael  —  his 
last  work. 

I  crossed  the  Tiber,  which  is  here  a  pretty 
clear  river,  with  fine  poplar  groves  and  vineyards 
along  its  banks.  I  observed  that  the  men  I  gene- 
rally met  all  over  this  country  had  roses  stuck 
behind    their    ears,    which    brought    to    my    mind 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  247 

Falstaff's  witticisms,  and  shows  that  the  same 
customs  were  once  common  in  England.  The 
women  of  Perugia  wear  black  gauze  coifs  over 
their  hair.     The  men  are  very  smart. 

After  passing  through  very  bad  roads,  we 
traversed  a  high  hill,  finely  wooded,  to  the  Torri- 
cella,  or  the  Trasimene  lake,  which  is  the  most 
beautiful  piece  of  water  I  ever  saw.  It  has  not 
the  wild  and  grand  sublimity  of  Keswick,  nor  the 
monstrous  mountains  of  the  Leman  ;  but  softness 
of  contour  and  pretty  turns  mark  it  strongly  with 
a  character  of  Greek  beauty.  A  woody  range  of 
hills  advances  into  its  waters,  with  a  tower  on  a 
rock  at  the  extremity  of  each  promontory.  Two 
or  three  islands,  one  of  which  has  a  picturesque 
steeple  on  it,  mark  the  different  lines  of  distance: 
a  high,  conical  mountain  appears  far  off.  The 
shore  is  flat  and  full  of  reeds.  A  boat  or  two 
gave  life  to  the  surface  of  the  water. 

For  many  miles  we  had  a  dreadful  road,  over 
the  ground  where  Hannibal  vanquished  Flaminius. 
As  soon  as  we  got  on  the  Tuscan  territories, 
which  are  not  designated  by  any  guards,  barriers,  or 
boundary  monuments,  I  found  the  roads  much  better. 
We  slept  at  Carnotria,  and  I  was  pleased  to 
see  all  the  country  girls  with  little  smart  round 
straw    hats,    coquettishly   tied.      The   faces   of  the 


248  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

people  were  quite  altered.  Here  we  saw  round, 
chubby  cheeks,  and  small  features  in  proportion 
to  the  face;  whereas  further  south  the  very  reverse 
is  remarkable.  I  no  longer  perceived  the  grand 
large  nose  and  expanded  eye. 

We  walked  to  Cortona,  a  very  steep  mile,  and 
had  a  fine  view  every  way,  especially  towards  the 
lake.  Cortona  is  a  melancholy  town.  The  day 
was  extremely  hot,  and  no  horses  being  at  the 
post,  I  took  refuge  from  a  broiling  sun  in  the 
church  porch,  where  I  found  several  grave  citizens 
seated  in  the  shade.  They  were  discoursing  con- 
cerning a  girl  that  positively  refused  to  own  who 
was  the  father  of  her  child.  They  guessed  every- 
body they  could  think  of,  but  decided  on  none. 
At  last  one  wiser  than  the  rest  exclaimed  :  "  Do 
not  trouble  yourselves  with  guessing;  you  will 
soon  learn  who  the  man  is,  for  the  Grand  Duke 
is  to  be  here  in  a  few  days,  and  he  is  sure  to 
find  out,  for  you  know  he  pries  into  everything, 
and  knows  all  that  passes." 

This  royal  inquisitor  seems,  however,  to  be 
very  popular  among  the  common  people,  and 
takes  great  pains  in  making  improvements.  He 
is  now  busy  in  opening  a  canal  from  the  lake,  to 
render  the  navigation  of  the  Chiena  more  constant, 
as  well  as  useful. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  249 

We  next  came  through  Arezza,  a  large  well- 
built  town,  and  along  the  rich  vale  of  Arno,  to 
Florence.  I  lodge  at  Mrs.  Hatchfield's,  and  dined, 
on  my  arrival,  at  Sir  Horace  Mann's,  where  I  met 
Harvey  Aston,  Smith  Barry,  Falkenor,  Vernon, 
and  Crosbie. 

We  went  to  the  opera,  where,  for  the  first 
time,  I  beheld  the  poor  unhappy  representative 
of  the  Stuart  race  in  the  Count  d'Albanie.  He 
goes  regularly  to  the  theatre,  and  always  falls 
asleep  in  a  corner  of  his  box,  at  the  end  of  the 
first  act,  being  generally  intoxicated.  His  face  is 
red,  and  his  eyes  are  fiery,  otherwise  he  is  not  an 
ill-looking  man.  The  Countess  is  not  handsome, 
being  black  and  sallow,  with  a  pug  nose.  She 
always  wears  a  hat.  Alfieri,  the  Piedmontese,  is 
a  constant  attendant  in  her  box,  with  her  dame 
de  compagnie,  Madame  Malgan. 

Le  Cascine  is  a  delightful  place,  along  the 
Arno,  with  woods  and  meadows  exactly  like  an 
English  plantation,  and  a  fine  alley  of  stone 
pines,   that  grow  like  fans. 

You    shall    have    an    account   of   the   gallery, 

&c.,   in   my  next.      

Florence,  June  loth. 

We  saw  the  collection  of  gems,  and  the  cabinet 
of  medals,  which  are  thrown  about  in  a  strange 


250  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

confusion  ;  all  metals  and  all  sizes,  according  to 
chronology — a  most  uncertain  and  puzzling  mode 
of  arrangement. 

Lord  Tilney  gave  us  a  dinner,  where  we  met 
a  great  number  of  Neapolitans.  We  dined  also 
with  Lady  Orford  at  her  villa  at  Fiesole,  in  a 
glorious  situation  for  views,  and  a  very  convenient, 
elegant  house,  perhaps  the  best  furnished  in  Italy 
for  neatness  and  propriety,  but  too  high,  too  much 
confined,  and  on  a  rock  which  reflects  a  burning 
heat  in  summer. 

The  society  here  seems  on  a  pleasant  footing. 
There  appear  to  be  no  feuds,  no  opposition  sets, 
which,  among  the  English,  is  too  often  the  case. 
Sir  Horace  Mann's  keeping  open  house  is  probably 
a  preventive,  being  a  sort  of  centre,  or  point  de  re- 
union. We  see  a  good  deal  of  Lord  and  Lady 
Cowper,  whose  house  is  very  pleasant.  Mrs.  S. 
went  with  her  to  Castello,  to  deliver  her  letter  to 
the  Grand  Duchess,  and  we  were  at  the  opera 
with  them  last  night.  On  coming  out,  we  passed 
close  to  the  Pretender,  who  was  carried  away,  at 
the  end  of  the  performance,  being  half  asleep,  and 
completely  intoxicated,  which  is  his  invariable 
custom ,  every  night.     Such   is  the  force  of  habit.^ 

I  Habit    or    custom    is    sometimes    exemplified    in    a 
manner  less  filthy  than  that  cited  of  the  Pretender.     Segur 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  25 1 

I  drew  my  wife's  attention  to  this  undeserving 
object  of  all  her  Jacobitical  adoration. 

Cavalier  Mozzi  is  here,  and  the  Chevalier 
Lorenzi,  a  man  of  great  wit  and  naivete.  He 
lived  much  at  Paris  among  the  unbelievers  and 
philosophers  of  both  sexes,  Madame  du  Deffand, 
Madame  de  Boufflers,  «&c.  When  he  returned  to 
Florence  he  heard  a  church  bell  ringing,  upon 
which  he  exclaimed;  "What  is  that  for?"  "For 
illness,"  was  the  reply.  "  Et  quoi,"  cried  Lorenzi, 
*'  on  dit  encore  la  messe  dans  ce  paysci  ?  " 

A  quack  doctor  was  called  to  attend  a  friend 
of  Lorenzi's  who  was  dangerously  ill,  and  ordered 
him  to  take  forty  of  his  pills.  "  II  est  mort  au 
quatrième,"  said  Lorenzi,  in  a  rage,  as  he  told 
the  story;  "jugez  s'il  les  eut  toutes  prises!'* 


mentions  two  instances,  both  equally  pleasant.    The  Duke 

de had  been  in  love  during  twenty  years  with  Madame 

de ,  and  had  been  in  the  habit  of  passing  almost  every 

evening  of  his  life  at  her  house.  At  length  her  husband 
died,  they  were  married,  and  of  course  she  removed  to  the 
Duke's  mansion.  After  dinner,  upon  the  first  day,  the 
Duchess,  seeing  her  husband  absorbed  in  meditation,  said 
to  him  :  "  Qu'avez-vous,  mon  ami  ?  À  quoi  revez-vous  ?  " 
"  Ma  foi,  mon  amie,"  replied  he,  "je  songois  à  une  chose 
assez  embarrassante.  Où  irai-je  à  l'avenir  passer  mes 
soirées?"  The  second  example  is  that  of  the  learned 
Marsais,  the  grammarian.  Finding  his  death  approaching, 
he  called  to  a  brother  academician  who  stood  by  his  bed- 
side, and  said  :  "  Go  tell,  tell  the  academy  que  je  m'en  vais, 
eu  que  je  m'en  vas,  car  l'un  et  Vautre  peuvent  se  dird." 


252  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

We  intend  leaving  this  place  in  a  day  or  two 
for  Vienna,  through  Bologna,  and  I  have  agreed 
with  a  Mantuan  vettiirino  to  take  us  with  thirteen 
horses  to  Bologna,  and  nine  to  Vienna,  including 
all  expenses  for  eating,  lodging,  &c.,  for  us,  our 
children,  and  five  servants;  the  price,  two  hundred 
sequins — about  twenty  too  much. 


Turin,  June  i^th. 

Your  letter,  which  I  found  here  on  my  arrival, 
was  an  agreeable  surprise.  We  came  firom 
Florence  to  Pisa,  which  is  a  fine  city,  and  has 
something  grand  and  noble  even  in  its  present 
deserted  condition,  that  in  a  melancholy  manner 
reminds  one  of  its  former  splendour.  It  is 
large,  well-built,  and  well-paved,  but  so  desolate 
that  grass  grows  in  the  streets.  As  a  formidable 
republic,  it  formerly  poured  out  its  citizens  to  the 
conquest  of  distant  countries;  though  now  it 
wears  the  livery  of  despotism,  misery,  and  depo- 
pulation. The  benefits  of  Leopold's  improvements 
have  not  yet  extended  thither. 

The  Arno,  which  at  this  spot  is  a  tolerably 
large  river,  divides  the  city  into  two  almost  equal 
parts.  The  best  bridge  is  all  marble,  and  it  is 
there  that  the  two  divisions  of  the  town  meet 
every  third  year,  to  assert,   with   clubs   and   coats 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,    ETC.  253 

of  mail,  the  honour  of  St.  Anthony's  hog  and  St. 
Mary's  kitten. 

The  cathedral  is  a  fine  Gothic  pile  of  marble 
supported  on  twenty-six  antique  granite  pillars; 
the  roof  grand  and  richly  gilt,  and  the  gate  of 
carved  bronze.  At  one  end  of  the  church  is  the 
famous  leaning  tower,  of  white  marble.  It  really 
bends  one  way  fifteen  feet  firom  the  perpendicular. 
Whether  built  so  on  purpose,  or  sunk  by  accident, 
is  doubtful,  and  I  am  inclined  to  be  of  the  first 
opinion,  as  the  pillars  on  the  undermost  side  are 
longer  than  the  others,  and  the  little  turret  at  the 
top  is  much  more  upright  than  the  rest  of  the 
steeple.* 

At  the  other  extremity  of  the  square,  about 
the  dome,  is  the  battistero  of  marble  ;  an  octa- 
gonal Gothic  temple,  ornamented  all  round  with 
columns  of  divers  sorts  and  figures.  The  inside 
is  supported  on  pillars  that  leave  a  passage  round, 
and  give  a  light,  easy  air  to  the  edifice.  The 
echo  of  this  building  is  very  strong. 

But  the  most  curious  place  at  Pisa  is  the 
Campo   Santo,   near  the  battistero;    a  long,  square 

I  A  similar  curiosity  may  be  seen  at  Bridgnorth,  where 
there  is  an  ancient  tower,  whose  summit  extends  to  some 
distance  over  the  base.  This  has  given  rise  to  the  pro- 
vincial expression  of  "  All  on  one  side,  like  Bridgnorth 
tower." 


254 


LETTERS     FROM    THE 


Gothic  cloister  of  white  marble.  In  the  middle 
is  a  cœmiterium  of  earth  brought  from  the  Holy 
Land,  as  ballast  to  the  Pisan  galleys,  in  the  days 
of  the  republic.  In  the  vaults  of  the  cloister 
repose  the  bones  of  the  old  citizens  of  Pisa. 
Around  on  the  wall  are  fresco  paintings  done  by 
the  first  restorers  of  the  art  in  Italy — which, 
although  they  fall  infinitely  short  of  the  perfection 
that  Raphael  long  afterwards  arrived  at,  have 
great  merit  in  the  airs  of  the  heads,  and  also  in 
the  whimsical  ideas  they  have  introduced  into 
their  pieces,  some  of  which  would  make  you  laugh. 
I  was  myself  diverted  by  the  sight  of  the  pro- 
fessors of  the  university,  stalking  up  and  down 
the  town  with  huge  spectacles  on  their  noses. 

From  Pisa,  I  entered  a  more  interesting, 
though  much  less  famous  republic,  I  mean  the 
existing  one  of  Lucca,  the  prettiest  little  toy  of  a 
commonwealth  imaginable.  The  city,  situated  in 
the  midst  of  a  small  but  rich  and  beautiful  plain, 
hemmed  in  on  every  side  by  woody  hills,  is  quite 
round,  well  fortified,  and  solidly  but  not  showily 
built.  The  ramparts  are  planted  with  trees,  and 
afford  the  most  agreeable  walk.  I  have  scarce 
ever  felt  greater  satisfaction  than  that  I  enjoyed 
at  the  air  of  plenty,  riches,  and  content,  this 
little   tract   of  land    wears  ;    it    is   the   emblem    of 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  255 

real  liberty.  The  government  is  aristocratic,  and 
has  a  gonfaloniere  and  nine  anziani  at  its  head, 
that  are  changed  every  tv^o  months.  It  really 
looks  upon  its  subjects  as  children,  for  everybody 
seems  to  thrive,  and  double  crops  are  reaped  here 
for  one  that  is  produced  in  other  states. 

When  there  was  a  scarcity  of  bread,  some 
years  since,  throughout  Italy,  the  Lucchese  set 
sentries  to  prevent  exportation  of  corn,  and  then 
distributed  it  out  of  the  public  granaries  to  the 
villages,  &c.,  on  the  easy  condition  of  being  reim- 
bursed in  the  space  of  nine  years. 

The  nobility  are  very  rich;  the  men  the  best 
made  in  Italy  ;  extremely  polite  and  affable  to 
strangers.  I  had  an  opportunity  of  knowing  some 
of  the  Lucchese  ladies  and  gentlemen  during  the 
few  days  I  stayed  there,  having  brought  a  letter 
from  Sir  Horace  Mann,  and  was  much  pleased 
with  their  civility  and  manners. 

I  could  almost  have  kissed  their  state's  motto, 
Libertas,  at  the  proofs  I  had  of  its  salutary  effects, 
and  should  have  preferred  if,  instead  of  a  black, 
foolish  daub  (done,  as  they  say,  by  Nicodemus), 
which  they  call  II  porto  santo,  and  which  is 
stamped  on  their  coins,  they  had  done  honour  to 
the  cap  and  staff  of  liberty. 

The   sumptuary  laws,    which    forbid  the  wear- 


256  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

ing  anything  but  black,  is  the  only  thing  I  should 
wish  altered  in  this  little  paradise,  as  it  gives  a 
rather  dismal  cast  to  a  naturally  gay  scene.^ 

From  thence,  along  the  coast,  through  woods 
of  corks  and  evergreen  oaks,  we  came  to  a  most 
picturesque  country  ;  the  hills  woody,  and  crowned 
with  ruined  castles  ;  the  river  Magra  rolling 
through  vast  plains,  planted  with  mulberry  trees  ; 
the  valleys  enclosed,  full  of  cornfields  thick  set 
with  trees,  on  which  the  vines  hang  from  branch 
to  branch  along  the  road. 

We  passed  through  the  mountains  which  con- 
tain quarries  of  the  famous  Carrara  marble  ; 
embarked  in  a  felucca  at  Lerici,  and  passed  to 
the  Gulf  of  Spezzia,  a  place  replete  with  every 
beauty  which  land  and  water,  united  in  a  popu- 
lous country,  can  procure. 

Imagine  a  large  basin  of  seven  miles  diameter 
every  way,  with  three  large  cultivated  islands  in 
the   mouth,  and   Porto  Venere   and  another  tower 

I  Although  Lucca  is  no  longer  a  republic,  it  enjoys  as 
much  liberty,  and  infinitely  more  tranquillity  and  happiness 
than  perhaps  was  the  case  in  the  days  of  its  independence. 
His  Royal  Highness  the  reigning  Duke  is  universally  be- 
loved, and  has  no  other  object  in  view,  at  least,  as  regards 
the  Duchy  of  Lucca,  than  the  welfare  of  his  subjects.  People 
may  wear  what  colour  they  please,  and  say  and  do  what  they 
please.  This  is  real  Uberty,  and  is  felt  to  be  so,  for  Lucca  is, 
at  present,  a  place  of  refuge  to  many  who  can  find  no  shelter 
elsewhere. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  257 

to  defend  the  passage.  There  are  many  large 
fortresses  on  the  shore,  along  which  stand  several 
considerable  towns  and  villages,  and  round  the 
gulf  is  a  range  of  beautiful  hills,  rising  one  above 
another,  entirely  covered  with  olive  and  fig  trees. 

We  passed  this  charming  bay  too  quickly,  for 
soon  after  we  had  nothing  before  us  but  bare 
brown  mountains  and  rugged  rocks.  Night  luckily 
relieved  us  from  this  ugly  view,  and  next  morning, 
on  doubling  the  cape,  about  twenty  miles  from 
Genoa,  we  coasted  for  many  miles  under  the 
beautiful  mountains  which  form  the  Riviera  di 
Levante,  covered  with  buildings,  allotted  to  the 
velvet  manufactories  ;  and  as  we  approached  Genoa 
the  fairy  landscape  increased  in  beauty. 

At  a  few  miles'  distance  I  enjoyed  the  grandest 
and  most  agreeable  view  imaginable.  The  amphi- 
theatre formed  by  the  hills  round  the  city,  the 
palaces  and  churches,  the  moles,  the  lighthouse, 
and  fine  populous  coast,  are  fine  beyond  descrip- 
tion. The  port  is  most  beautifully  formed  by 
nature,  in  an  exact  half-moom. 

I  took  a  sketch  of  the  famous  lighthouse  as 
well  as  I  could  by  stealth,  for  nobody  is  allowed 
to  make  drafts  of  any  part  of  Genoa.  In  point 
of  beauty  of  situation,  that  city  may  vie  with  any, 
perhaps,   in    the    world.      It    is    built    on    a   small 

VOL.    I  17 


2c8  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

tract  of  even  ground,  which  seems  stolen  from  the 
sea,  and  occupies  principally  the  eastern  part  of 
the  crescent.  The  hills  that  rise  immediately 
above  it  are  covered  with  villas,  which,  at  a  dis- 
tance, appear  to  be  part  of  the  town. 

Fish  is  not  very  plentiful  in  the  harbour,  but 
the  gulf  is  much  better  stocked  than  is  generally 
imagined  ;  but  as  every  fisherman  is  forced  to  give 
to  the  State  the  third  part  of  his  capture,  besides 
heavy  entrance  duties,  they  prefer  carrying  their 
fish  anywhere  rather  than  to  the  capital.  I  saw 
them  take  many  loassi^  sardines,  and  other  fish. 
At  night  the  port  is  full  of  boats  with  lights,  at 
which  a  certain  sort  of  fish  leaps  up,  and  then 
lies  on  the  surface  of  the  water  stupefied  with  the 
glare,  till  the  boatman  lances  his  harpoon  into  it. 

Towards  the  land,  for  a  good  way,  are  the 
palaces  of  nobles,  painted  as  most  of  the  houses 
there  are,  and  very  lofty,  with  terraces  to  the 
sea.  The  roofs  of  the  town  houses  are  covered 
with  earth,  and  serve  as  gardens  to  the  great 
mansions  beneath  them,  being  railed  round  with 
marble  banisters,  and  ornamented  with  urns  and 
statues. 

The  custom  of  painting  the  outsides  of  the 
houses  with  representations  of  deities,  &c.,  and 
the  dissensions  in  the  families,  gave  rise  to  a  sort 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  259 

of  proverb  in  the  Genoese  paiois,  which   is  some- 
thing to  this  purport: — 

Walls  thick  and  servants  thin, 

The  gods  without,  and  the  devil  within. 

The  lower  class  of  people  inhabit  another 
quarter,  near  the  gate  of  the  old  mole,  where  the 
burgesses  of  the  city  mount  guard,  in  a  guard- 
room situated  near  the  edge  of  the  rock. 

I  visited  the  fortification  erected  by  M.  de 
Boufflers  in  1748,  when  he  came  to  defend  the 
Genoese  against  the  Germans,  who  had  been  let 
into  the  town  by  capitulation,  and  whose  troops 
were  quartered  in  the  Borgo  di  San  Pietro 
d'Arena,  and  in  the  mountain  near  the  Borgo 
della  Bisogna.  Their  officers  had  the  key  of  the 
gate  which  leads  to  Turin,  and  the  inhabitants 
could  neither  go  in  nor  out  without  their  per- 
mission. The  Genoese  nobles,  being  bound  by 
oath  to  submit,  remained  quiet;  but  the  populace, 
with  three  determined  leaders,  rose  and  at  length 
drove  the  Austrians  out  of  both  walls. 

The  ringleaders  of  this  rising  were  Spagnoletto, 
a  shoemaker,  Barbarossa,  a  peasant,  and  Carborre, 
a  servant.  They  fixed  a  gallows  in  the  Piazza  della 
Nunziati,  and  decreed  to  hang  up  all  those  who 
should  refuse  to  take  up  arms.  They  seized  on 
the    arsenal,   notwithstanding    the    protestation    of 

17 — 2 


260  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  Doge.  One  of  their  chiefs,  on  being  asked 
what  recompense  he  demanded,  contented  himself 
with  asking  to  be  made  a  courier,  or  postman  to 
the  republic.  The  others  were  made  colonels,  and 
received  the  pay  of  that  rank  for  their  lives.  When 
the  Germans  returned  the  French  were  come,  and 
their  fresh  attack  proved  fruitless. 

We  stayed  a  very  short  time  at  Genoa.  Our 
road  to  Campo  Marone  was  all  along  the  river. 
Upon  the  hills  are  an  amazing  number  of  country 
seats,  churches,  and  villages,  which,  being  all  white, 
form  a  lively  prospect,  joined  to  the  greenness  of 
the  gardens,  which  are  very  plentiful  thereabouts. 
We  had  then  a  long  ascent  through  a  very  rough 
road,  and  had  a  fine  view  of  the  sea  from  the 
summit  of  the  hills. 

The  haystacks  there  are  made  in  a  particular 
manner,  and  so  contrived  as  to  resist  the  fury  of 
the  winds  that  blow  violently  on  those  heights. 
They  have  a  thatched  roof,  fastened  at  each 
corner  to  a  thick  pole,  which  serves,  when  squeezed 
down,  to  keep  it  fixed.  The  houses  of  some  of 
the  villages  are  thatched,  *  a  thing  not  common  in 
Piedmont. 

On  the  way  to  Voltagio  the  mountains  are 
dull  and  uninteresting — no  rocks,  no  woods,  no 
variety.     This  part  of  the  Apennines  is  far  inferior 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  261 

to  the  Alps  in  diversity  of  romantic  scenes,  and 
the  many  pleasing  prospects  amidst  rushing  waters, 
huge  rocks,  and  stupendous  precipices,  which  occur 
in  travelling  through  the  latter. 

The  road  was  paved,  but  very  rough;  a  tor- 
rent, scarcely  perceptible,  rolls  along  in  the  hollow 
beneath.  There  is  a  kind  of  aqueduct  in  the  valley. 
These  defiles  are  called  La  Bocchetta. 

Beyond  Voltagio  the  road  runs  along  the  sides 
of  stupendous  precipices,  which  are  very  disagree- 
able sights.  On  a  high  rocky  mountain  in  the 
midst  of  the  Apennines  is  the  fort  of  Gavio  ;  the 
village  is  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  The  river  Leone 
runs  below  in  the  valley;  the  sand  of  its  bottom 
is  green. 

The  women  in  these  mountains  and  the  country 
about  Genoa  are  very  ugly;  all  black  as  gipsies. 
They  plait  and  twist  their  coal-black  hair  in  a 
round  upon  the  crown  of  their  head  ;  then  fasten 
it  together  with  a  large  silver  or  steel  bodkin.  The 
front  is  cropped  and  kept  back  with  pomatum. 
In  winter  they  wear  a  veil  of  white  linen,  checked 
with  red  flowers,  which  they  throw  over  their 
heads  ;  it  falls  down  to  the  hips,  and  some  of  them 
hide  almost  all  their  faces  behind  it. 

We  passed  many  mulberry  trees  planted  among 
vines,   and   came   to   Novi,   the    last    town   in   the 


202  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Genoese   dominions.      Its   houses   are    painted    on 
the  outside  with  several  colours. 

The  country  about  Alessandria  is  very  like 
that  near  most  of  the  fortified  towns  in  French 
Flanders — low,  bare,  and  intersected  with  innumer- 
able roads. 

Alessandria  della  paglia  is  called  so,  as  some 
say,  from  its  ancient  walls  being  only  dirt  and 
stones,  and,  therefore,  so  nicknamed  by  the  Em- 
peror Frederick  Barbarossa.  Others  pretend  that 
it  was  out  of  derision  for  the  abuse  of  the  great 
name  of  Alexandria;  or,  more  likely,  the  appella- 
tion may  have  come  from  the  great  quantity  of 
straw  which  the  capital  of  so  large  a  corn  countr}' 
might  have  brought  to  market.  The  buildings 
of  this  town  are  poor,  the  streets  narrow.  The 
coaches  seem  very  crazy,  for  the  coachmen  stop 
short  at  every  gutter  to  go  over  quietly,  for  fear 
of  shaking  them  to  pieces.  The  Alessandrines 
have  a  peculiar  jargon  of  their  own. 

We  dined  late  at  Asti.  The  fortifications  of 
this  ancient  city  (formerly  Hasta  Pompeia)  are 
now  quite  demolished.  It  seems  to  have  had  a 
double  wall,  and  what  remains  of  the  outwork  is 
singularly  constructed,  being  all  built  with  small 
arches,  only  open  towards  the  town. 

We    passed   San    Michaele    and    Piormo  ;    the 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  263 

latter  town  cuts  a  good  figure,  as  it  is  situated  on 
the  brow  of  a  hill,  which  terminates  a  low  watery 
valley.  From  thence  to  Turin  we  travelled  in  the 
dark,  but  we  could  just  see  the  snowy  top  of 
Monte  Viso,  rising  above  the  rest  of  the  Alps  in  a 
conical  form.  

Turm,  June  6th,  1779. 

We  have  taken  up  our  abode  at  l'Auberge 
Royale.  Soon  after  our  arrival  we  had  a  visit 
from  Mr.  Poyntz,  the  chargé  d'affaires,  who  ob- 
tained leave  for  us  to  attend  the  King's  ball  at  La 
Vénerie,  his  country  palace,  about  three  miles 
from  Turin.  There  was  a  brilliant  assemblage 
there,  of  men  in  showy  uniforms,  being  the  élite 
of  the  Sardinian  army.  They  dressed  in  blue  ;  the 
infantry  wear  white  waistcoats  and  breeches;  the 
cavalry  buff;  a  shoulder-knot  distinguishes  the 
latter.  The  officers  wear  broad-laced  button-holes, 
but  no  epaulettes.  Rows  of  lace  distinguish 
ranks.     The  uniforms  are  very  neat. 

I  was  introduced  to  one  or  two  of  the  prin- 
cipal Sardinian  officers,  who  spoke  to  me  in 
Italian.  I  noticed  the  peculiarity  of  their  using 
the  B  instead  of  V  in  their  dialect,  which  illus- 
trates the  Sardinian  proverb; 

"Felices  quibus  vivere  est  bibere." 


264  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

The  Other  sense  of  it  is,  I  understand,  equally 
correct.  There  being  no  minuets,  the  ball  was 
not  so  formal  as  those  things  usually  are,  but  the 
room  was  a  perfect  Calcutta. 

The  King  was  on  the  point  of  speaking  to 
us,  but  his  bashfulness  could  not  be  surmounted, 
and  he  sheered  off.  The  Prince  of  Piedmont 
spoke  to  us,  and  said  he  recollected  Sir  Thomas 
and  Mr.  Dillon.  He  is  thin  and  sickly,  like  a 
worn-out  man.  His  wife,  Madame  Clotilde  of 
France,  is  as  fat  as  butter,  very  merry  and  good- 
natured.  She  has  no  children.  The  Duke  de 
Chablais  seems  to  be  a  mere  driveller — the  rest 
of  the  Princes  are  absolute  Corsican  fairies.^  The 
substance  and  strength  of  the  stock  seems  quite 
exhausted  in  them.  They  are  the  smallest,  under- 
formed  things  I  ever  saw,  the  Corsican  fairy 
excepted.  The  Queen  looks  like  an  old  woman 
of  ninety,  totally  withered  and  worn  out.  She 
has  had  twenty-one  children.  The  Duchess  of 
Chablais  is  pretty,  like  Madame  d'Artois.  The 
youngest  Princess  is  very  pretty,  light  and  elegant, 
but  very  short.  The  Prince  and  Princess  of 
Carignan  were  absent  on  account  of  mourning. 

Many  of  the  ladies  who  danced  were  particu- 
larly handsome,  and  more  especially  Madame  d'Arza. 
I  Alluding  to  a  famous  dwarf  so  styled. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  265 

The  Spanish  ambassador,  Villa  Hermosa,  is  a 
most  easy,  polite,  good  sort  of  man,  just  like  an 
Englishman  in  his  manner.  We  returned  to 
Turin   at   ten   o'clock,   by   moonlight. 

I  have  since  been  to  their  palace  in  the 
morning.  The  first  apartment  is  a  large  square 
hall,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  painted  in  panels, 
but  spoilt  by  the  fire  the  French  set  to  it,  when 
they  plundered  the  palace,  during  the  war  in  the 
beginning  of  the  century.  There  are  ten  large 
pictures  of  ladies  hunting,  and  below  ten  hunting 
pieces  of  Daniel  Mieli,  which  are  full  of  figures, 
dressed  in  the  habits  of  his  time.  The  great 
gallery  is  superior  to  that  of  Versailles  for  length, 
height,  and  breadth,  but  not  so  handsomely  orna- 
mented. The  stables  are  very  extensive,  and  the 
orangery  well  worth  seeing.  The  church  is  very 
fine  ;  it  has  a  dome  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross  ; 
its  proportions  are  admirable,  and  the  architec- 
ture noble  and  elegant.  There  is  plenty  of  game 
and  deer  in  the  park,  and  a  theatre  made  by 
plantations  of  trees  ;  a  labyrinth  of  hornbeam 
hedges,  a  menagerie,  several  fine  broad  alleys,  and 
a  long  mall  ;   but  water  is  prodigiously  wanted. 

We  dined  at  Mr.  Poyntz's  with  Mr.  Head, 
Mr.  Maxwell,  and  Count  Castel  Alfieri,  a  young 
Piedmontese     of    the     academy.     There    are    few 


266  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

English  here,  except  some  youths  with  their  tutors. 
We  drove  post  to  the  Valentin,  a  noble  avenue, 
where  we  saw  several  beautiful  women  ;  then  to 
the  Italian  comedy,  where  the  Arlechino  was 
execrable  ;  and  after  that  we  paid  a  visit  to 
Madame  de  St.  Gilles,  a  very  agreeable  person. 

Turin  is  supposed  to  have  existed  long  before 
Rome,  and  to  have  been  the  capital  of  the 
Taurini.  There  are  but  few  remains  of  antiquity 
to  support  its  pretensions.  When  the  old  walls 
of  the  town  were  destroyed,  to  make  the  square 
near  the  Porta  Palazzo,  many  ancient  altars  and 
stones  were  dug  out  of  the  foundations,  with  in- 
scriptions on  them.  These  are  fixed  on  the  walls 
of  the  university.  The  emblem  of  a  bull  is  sup- 
posed to  be  derived  from  the  ancient  Taurini. 

The  fortifications  are  strong,  and  all  the  walls 
are  planted  with  fine  old  oaks,  which  afford  a 
very  pleasant  shade.  The  citadel  is  very  strong, 
and  underwent  a  close  siege  in  1706,  till  Prince 
Eugène  drove  off  the  French  by  the  victory  he 
gained  in  the  plains  on  each  side  of  the  Dora. 
It  was  there,  at  the  Porte  de  Secours,  that  Victor 
Amedius  came  to  get  admittance  after  his  abdica- 
tion, and  was  refused  by  the  Baron  de  Remy. 
The  French  made  several  violent  attacks  upon 
this  place,  but  were  always  repulsed. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC,  267 

A  soldier  in  the  corps  of  miners,  one  Pietro 
Molo,  blew  himself  up,  with  several  companies  of 
French  grenadiers,  in  order  to  save  the  fort, 
which  the  enemy  was  on  the  point  of  taking. 
His  children  enjoy  a  pension  from  the  King.  His 
noble  intention  was  confided  to  his  companions, 
whom  he  desired  to  get  away,  and  recommend  his 
family  to  the  Duke,  having  resolved  to  sacrifice 
himself  for  his  country. 

Turin  is  divided  into  two  parts,  the  old  and 
the  new.  The  new  is  well  built,  and  chiefly  in- 
habited by  the  nobility,  whose  palaces  are  ele- 
gant, and  contribute  to  the  embellishment  of  the 
town.  The  interior  of  them  is  generally  well 
furnished,  with  extensive  collections  of  paintings, 
particularly  those  of  the  Marquesses  da  Fana  and 
d'Ormea. 

We  went  to  the  little  opera-house  of  Farig- 
nan,  which  is  the  only  one  open  at  this  time  of 
the  year.  No  one  seems  to  attend  to  the  music 
or  representation.  The  ladies  receive  visits  in 
their  boxes,  e  fanno  conversazione.  This  theatre 
is  but  ill  lighted.  It  does  to  dance  in  during  the 
carnival,  when  the  opera  is  held  at  the  grand 
theatre  adjoining  the  palace,  which  is  very  large, 
and  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  Italy.  Its 
form  is  exactly  that  of  the  section  of  an    egg  ;    the 


268  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

stage  is  very  extensive,  and  they  often  have  twenty 
or  thirty  horses  upon  it. 

The  Jews  here  have  a  quarter  ot  their  own, 
called  Ghetto,  with  a  synagogue  and  burial-place. 
Every  Jew  is  obliged  to  wear  a  yellow  riband, 
sewn  on  the  breast  of  his  coat. 

The  street  which  leads  to  the  gate  of  the  Po 
is  the  grandest  in  the  city,  and  probably  the 
finest  in  Europe.  The  palace  of  the  Prince  of 
Piedmont  is  very  handsome.  I  have  not  sufficient 
time  at  present  to  give  you  an  exact  idea  of  this 
small  but  beautiful  city. 


Lyons,  June. 

From  Novalesa  we  set  out  en  porteurs,  at  three 
o'clock.  The  heat  was  excessive,  at  which  our 
carriers  seemed  enchanted  1  We  were  seated  on 
a  little  stool  with  a  back  to  it,  fixed  on  poles, 
which  two  men  bore  like  chairmen  ;  and  a  rope 
was  placed  so  as  to  swing  our  legs  upon.  In 
this  equipage  we  were  carried  up  for  three  hours, 
through  roads  where  no  horsemen  could  attempt 
to  ride. 

On  one  side  of  us,  firom  a  cavern  m  the  top 
of  a  high  rock,  gushed  forth  the  river  Cencola, 
which,  after  falling  in  several  cascades,  takes  its 
course  along  the  valley,   and   discharges   itself  into 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  269 

the  Dora.  No  words  can  describe  the  badness  of 
the  roads,  which  turn  incessantly  from  left  to 
right,  from  right  to  left,  over  rocks  and  loose 
stones.  A  ravine,  through  which  some  furious 
torrent  has  dashed  headlong,  and  torn  up  every- 
thing before  it,  is  a  turnpike  compared  to  this. 

We  saw  no  uncommon  insects  or  beasts  in 
our  journey.  As  we  ascended,  I  beheld  in  succes- 
sion hawthorn,  oak,  juniper,  larch,  laurestinus, 
beech,  barberry,  hazel,  gooseberry,  brier,  ash, 
cherry  and  sloe,  before  we  reached  La  Perrière; 
afterwards  larch,  and  crimson  polyanthuses. 

A  covered  way  is  constructed  here,  in  order 
to  prevent  accidents  from  avalanches.  The  pas- 
tures in  the  plains  are  enamelled  with  red,  white, 
yellow,  and  purple  pansies,  a  small  flower  of 
bright  blue,  and  plenty  of  flox  adonis.  The  high 
peaks  on  the  left  are  called  la  come  rouge,  and  la 
glacière  de  Bar,  In  front  is  one  of  the  prettiest 
cascades  in  the  Alps.  After  La  Perrière  the 
larch  woods  cease.  There  are,  however,  many 
hardy  pines. 

From  thence  to  La  Grande  Croix  is  a  plain, 
full  of  white  clover,  large  blue  flowers,  and  a 
small  yellow  cistus.  The  pastures  are  covered 
with  white  ranunculi  and  white  heart's-ease. 

I    thought    the    lake    small    and    ugly.     The 


270  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

larches  near  it  were  blighted.      The  rocks   are    of 
a  friable  marble,  like  salt. 

After  descending  a  short  distance,  we  came 
to  the  large  woods,  which  are  very  fine.  Soon 
after  begin  the  spruce  firs  intermingled  with 
larches  and  pines,  forming  a  noble  forest. 

We  arrived  at  eight  at  Lans  le  Bourg,  but 
the  baggage  did  not  get  down  until  ten  that  night, 
and  the  carriage  not  till  six  the  next  morning. 

The  women  on  this  side  of  Mont  Cenis  wear 
an  odd  head-dress  ;  it  consists  of  a  piece  of  blue 
cloth  drawn  together,  which  binds  up  their  hair 
behind;  and  in  the  middle  of  their  forehead  is 
a  square  bit  of  red  or  green  velvet,  with  some 
tinsel  sewn  round  it. 

Our  road  from  Modane  to  St.  Michel,  a 
miserable  inn,  lay  over  rocks  and  precipices,  the 
mountains  above  us  being  covered  with  firs  and 
birch  trees.  From  thence  the  rocks  above  the 
highway  are  quite  perpendicular.  They  consist  of 
a  kind  of  coarse  marble,  of  a  bluish  gray  colour. 
About  St.  Jean  de  Maurienne,  goitres  are  numerous. 
Indeed,  most  of  the  inhabitants  of  these  countries 
are  affected  with  them.,  as  well  as  many  of  the 
Turin  nobility.  This  protuberance  is  attributed 
to  the  melted  snow,  which  is  drank  here  in 
spring. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  27I 

We  travelled  along  the  road  above  the  banks 
of  the  Arco,  that  flows  amidst  rocks  and  woods  in 
continual  cascades,  and  crossed  it  on  a  bridge  of 
stone,  and  another  of  wood.  The  industry  of  the 
Savoyards  is  great  ;  they  improve  every  little  spot 
of  land  they  find  among  the  rocks. 

We  stopped  at  Aiguebelle,  a  small  town  at 
the  bottom  of  a  hill,  hemmed  in  on  every  side 
by  the  mountains.  The  setting  sun  afforded  us 
a  sight  only  to  be  seen  in  such  a  country  ;  its 
rays  gilding  the  snowy  summits  of  the  mountains, 
made  them  appear  of  a  bright  fiery  colour,  and 
above  them  the  thick  white  clouds  were  streaked 
with  three  or  four  reflections  of  a  beautiful  rainbow. 

We  travelled  all  the  way  to  Chambery  be- 
tween ridges  of  mountains  which  kept  the  sun  off 
us  ;  their  tops  were  almost  always  hid  amongst 
the  clouds,  and  their  flanks  girded  with  woods. 

Montmeilian,  noted  for  its  good  red  wine, 
stands  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill.  High  on  the 
top  is  the  fort  which  was  besieged  by  the  French, 
and  taken  after  a  short  resistance,  in  the  last 
wars  of  Italy.  The  town  is  half  in  ruins,  having 
never  been  rebuilt  since  that  destructive  period. 
Sudden  storms  of  violent  rain  prevented  our  see- 
ing the  convent  of  the  Grande  Chartreuse,  which 
is   much   cried   up    by   travellers.      Every   stranger 


272  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

is  treated  with  a  supper,  bed,  and  breakfast.  We 
travelled  beneath  the  shade  of  the  mountains 
which  encompass  it,  and  slept  at  Chambery,  where 
there  is  little  to  be  seen. 

As  we  proceeded  from  thence,  we  enjoyed  the 
sight  of  a  noble  waterfall.  It  issues  out  of  a  cleft 
on  the  very  summit  of  a  lofty  mountain,  rushes 
down  its  side  upon  a  precipice,  over  which  it 
spouts  with  great  violence  upon  the  rocks  below, 
and  forms  a  most  agreeable  cascade.  The  height 
from  its  source,  as  our  guide  assured  us,  is  more 
than  two  hundred  ioises.  After  the  melting  of  the 
snow  in  spring,  it  falls  down  with  such  force  that 
it  comes  close  to  the  road,  which  is  at  a  consider- 
able distance. 

We  next  reached  a  spot  where  the  road  is 
cut  through  a  very  large  rocky  mountain,  called 
La  Grotta.  Charles  Emmanuel,  second  Duke  of 
Savoy,  had  it  blown  up,  and  a  pavement  made. 
The  road  is  broad  but  steep,  between  vast  rocks 
that  hang  over  it,  and  at  the  entrance  is  an  in- 
scription in  Latin  denoting  that,  in  the  year  1663, 
the  passage  had  been  cut  by  the  Duke,  for  the 
relief  and  convenience  of  travellers. 

From  the  top  of  the  cliff,  through  a  cavity, 
rushes  down  a  stream  so  strongly  impregnated 
with   iron    as   to   stain   the   rock   red  ;    and   further 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  273 

on  there  is  a  large  grotto,  out  of  which  a  con- 
siderable brook  rolls  forth,  and  forms  a  cascade. 
There  is  also  a  spacious  cavern  without  water. 

We  dined  at  Les  Echelles,  a  small  place,  near 
which,  on  two  eminences,  are  the  ruins  of  two  old 
castles.  At  a  little  distance  from  thence,  a  guide 
led  us  up  the  hills,  to  the  place  where  a  separation 
has  been  made  of  the  Savoy  from  the  French 
territories.  A  mountain  was  blown  up  with  gun- 
powder, and  a  passage  through  the  middle  of  it 
made  for  the  Guyer,  which  ran  before  through 
several  holes  in  the  rock. 

We  passed  along  the  side  of  a  high  smooth 
rock,  polished  by  the  hand  of  man.  The  narrow 
road  is  rendered  safe  by  a  wall  of  stone  cut  out 
of  a  great  crag,  which  hangs  over  the  precipice. 
At  the  end  of  this  passage  is  a  little  door,  hewn 
through  the  stone,  by  which  we  came  to  a  narrow 
wooden  bridge,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  pillar 
with  the  fleuYs-de-lys  on  one  face,  and  the  white 
cross  on  the  other.  It  joins  the  two  roads  to- 
gether. The  water  beneath  rolls  over  huge  stones 
and  precipices,  upon  which  one  can  hardly  look 
without  dread.  The  prospect  terminates  in  a  vast 
rocky  mountain,  from  behind  which  the  river 
pours  forth  its  angry  waters.  The  crags  on  each 
side  are   immensely  high,  and  quite  impracticable. 

VOL.   I  i3 


274  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Their  summits  bend  over  the  valley,  almost  near 
enough  to  touch  each  other. 

Many  ruined  castles  exist  in  this  part  of 
Savoy,  and  among  them  the  Château  de  Roque- 
fort, where  Mandrin,  a  famous  French  smuggler, 
was  taken.  The  road  winds  about  incessantly,  until 
at  length  we  found  ourselves  at  a  surprising  height, 
amidst  rocks  and  precipices,  through  which  rushes 
the  river  that  separates  France  from  Savoy.  The 
way  is  hewn  out  along  the  side  of  a  large  rocky 
mountain,  whose  head  is  covered  with  clouds. 
Parapets  keep  the  traveller  from  tumbling  over, 
which  might  otherwise  happen,  as  the  passage  is 
narrow  and  slippery.  Thickets  and  rocks  hide 
the  precipices;  box  bushes  are  common  there- 
abouts. 

Pont  de  Beauvoisin  is  the  frontier  town  of 
France  and  Savoy.  The  little  river  Guyer  divides 
the  town,  and  the  two  kingdoms;  the  latter  join 
in  the  middle  of  the  bridge,  which  is  of  stone. 

On  entering  France,  chesnut  and  walnut  trees 
are  planted  in  plenty  along  the  roadside,  and 
stone  pillars  are  set  up  at  the  distance  of  every 
half  league. 

I  looked  back  to  take  leave  of  the  scenery  of 
Savoy,  just  after  a  heavy  shower  of  rain,  which 
had    refreshed    all    the   atmosphere,    and   beheld    a 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  275 

ridge  of  mountains  tipped  with  clouds  as  white 
as  milk  ;  below,  mists  rising  slowly  from  the 
valley,  hills  covered  with  wood  on  one  side,  on 
the  other  rocks  of  enormous  size  and  height; 
hamlets  and  enclosures  without  number  spangled 
the  valley,  and  a  complete  rainbow  overarched 
the  whole. 

Lyons  is  enclosed  with  a  wall  of  masonry;  it 
has  six  gates,  all  of  which  are  shut  at  night.  The 
houses  near  the  river  are  very  lofty,  and  built  of 
white  stone.  There  is  one  belonging  to  a  magis- 
trate, let  out  to  a  number  of  different  families, 
which  brings  in  20,000  livres  a  year  to  the  pro- 
prietor. The  Place  Louis  le  Grand  is  spacious 
and  well  built,  with  the  statue  of  that  Monarch 
in  the  middle. 

Close  to  the  quay  is  a  famous  manufactory  of 
silk  and  brocades,  the  designs  of  which  are  most 
delightfully  imagined,  and  the  prices  of  the  work 
reasonable. 

The  "  Charité  "  is  a  building  of  surprising 
extent,  capable  of  containing  ten  thousand  people. 
Here  the  old  and  decrepit  poor  are  employed  at 
some  easy  work,  according  to  their  capacity,  and 
here  likewise  vagabonds  are  shut  up  and  forced  to 
work  ;  for  not  a  beggar  is  suffered  in  the  streets 
of  Lyons.     The  work  of  these   poor   people   is   so 

I8-— 2 


276  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

beneficial,  that,  besides  what  is  sufficient  for  the 
nourishment  of  those  within,  every  week  they 
distribute  fifteen  hundred  loaves  of  bread  to  the 
indigent  in  the  town. 

In  front  of  this  building  are  the  ramparts, 
where  the  inhabitants  take  the  air  in  their  coaches, 
as  far  as  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers,  Rhone 
and  Saone.  The  difference  between  the  waters 
of  each  is  as  easily  perceptible  as  those  of  the 
Rhine  and  Moselle  at  Coblentz.  The  Rhone, 
rough  and  impetuous,  rushes  with  fury  against 
the  opposite  rocks,  and  dashes  back  the  sleepy 
waters  of  the  silent  Saone  a  considerable  way. 
As  the  winds  that  blow  through  the  openings  in 
the  mountains  are  violent,  sudden  and  unsettled 
here,  no  windmills  succeed;  therefore  watermills 
are  built  on  the  Saone,  which  renders  its  navi- 
gation extremely  dangerous. 

Desirous  of  seeing  the  antiquities,  I  climbed  up 
a  steep  hill  to  an  open  place,  where  the  convents 
of  the  Minimes  and  the  Ursulines  are  built.  The 
gardener  of  the  latter  admitted  us  into  the  garden, 
and  led  us  by  the  light  of  a  candle  down  a  few 
old  steps  into  a  cavern,  which  was  anciently  a  bath, 
or  more  probably  a  reservoir,  of  the  Romans,  for 
the  waters  that  were  conveyed  thither  over  the 
hill    by    aqueducts.       This     subterranean    building 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  277 

is  a  quadrangular  vault,  divided  into  two  square 
rooms,  with  four  doors  each,  and  a  gallery  that 
runs  quite  round  them.  The  walls,  roof  and 
floor  are  laid  with  cement,  several  inches  thick, 
and  so  hard  that  not  a  flaw  can  be  perceived  in 
it,  except  where  it  has  been  broken  by  hammers, 
out  of  curiosity.  Two  holes  are  in  a  corner,  one 
of  which  served  to  admit  the  water,  the  other  to 
let  it  run  off  when  too  full. 

In  the  vineyard  of  the  Minimes  are  the  re- 
mains  of  a  Roman  amphitheatre,  which  anciently 
had  a  communication  with  the  palace  of  the  Roman 
governors,  that  stood  on  the  ground  where  a  con- 
vent  of  Visitandine  Nuns  has  since  been  erected. 
The  good  fathers  have  built  their  house  of  the 
stones  of  this  theatre,  and  are  daily  destroying  it 
more  and  more. 

From  their  convent  I  walked  further  up  the 
mountains,  to  the  church  of  St.  Irenœus,  a 
bishop  who  suffered  martyrdom  in  this  place.  It 
is  the  most  ancient  in  Lyons,  and  built  over  a  sub- 
terranean chapel,  where  the  primitive  Christians 
hid  themselves,  and  secretly  performed  the  sacred 
rites,  until  they  were  discovered  and  dragged  out 
to  death.  The  saint's  body  and  that  of  his  com- 
panions  lie  in  this  chapel.  On  its  door  is  an  in- 
scription  in  Latin  verse,  and  half-way  up  the  hill. 


278  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

against  the  front  of  a  cottage,  are  the  following 
words,  engraved  on  marble  :  —  "  Souvenez  vous, 
passans  Chrétiens,  que  le  sang  de  nos  saints 
martyrs  a  coulé  dans  ce  chemin-ci,  pour  la  foi 
de  Jésus  Christ." 

On  this  mountain  stood  the  ancient  Lugdunum. 
Its  old  walls  yet  remain.  On  its  summit  are  the 
ruins  of  a  once  magnificent  aqueduct,  which  con- 
veyed water  over  the  mountains  from  a  place  eight 
leagues  off.  A  portion  of  it  is  still  remaining, 
very  solid  and  thick,  built  with  pebbles,  cemented 
together  with  a  bitumen  scarcely  to  be  broken 
with  hammers. 


Paris,  June. 

We  passed  to  Chalons  through  Villefranche. 
Its  steeple  and  bridge,  with  a  kind  of  ruinous 
citadel  behind  it,  have  a  lively  effect.  The  men 
wear  little  round  hats,  tied  on  the  top  of  their 
heads,  with  crowns  too  little  to  fit. 

Near  Beaune  we  entered  the  famous  wine 
country  of  Burgundy.  The  vines  are  low,  and 
are  trained  to  little  stakes,  or  oaken  echalas.  We 
passed  through  a  hilly  country  to  Dijon.  Its 
environs  are  bleak,  but  the  Gothic  steeples  and 
well-grown  trees  afford  an  agreeable  view  of  the 
city    from    many    points.      The    streets    are    wide. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  279 

There  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Louis  XIV.,  and 
in  the  church  two  white  marble  monuments  ;  the 
one  of  Philip,  first  Duke  of  Burgundy,^  of  the 
second  race,  and  the  other  of  his  son  John,  and 
that  son's  wife,  a  Bavarian.  He  is  styled  son  of 
Philip  of  Burgundy,  and  Jane  the  daughter  of  the 
King  of  Bacignê.  What  this  means,  Heaven 
knows — it  may  be  Bohême;  but  Philip  married 
Margaret  of  Flanders. 

We  passed  a  pleasant  village,  where  the 
Bishop  of  Dijon  is  building  a  fine  house.  There 
is  hereabouts  abundance  of  excellent  firuit.  Next 
day  we  travelled  in  an  ugly  open  country,  near 
the  serpentining  river  Yonne,  down  which  much 
wood  is  floated  to  Paris. 

The  approach  to  Auxerre  is  picturesque.  Its 
lofty  steeples  have  a  handsome  appearance,  and 
the  walks  round  the  town  are  pleasant. 

Joigny  stands  well  on  the  river.  Sens  is  an 
ugly,  ill-built  city.  Its  cathedral  is  large  and 
Gothic.  In  the  choir  is  the  mausoleum  of  the  late 
Dauphin   and   Dauphiness,  by  Corton  ;   a  piece  of 

I  Philip  of  Burgundy,  called  the  Bold,  was  married  at 
Ghent,  in  1369,  to  Margaret,  daughter  of  Louis  de  Mâle, 
Count  of  Flanders.  She  had  been  previously  married  to 
Philip  de  Rouvre,  Duke  of  Burgundy,  in  1354,  he  being  seven, 
and  she  only  four  years  old.  He  died  ere  he  attained 
manhood. 


28o  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

true  French  confusion,  allegory,  and  want  of  taste. 
The  country  improves  near  Maret. 

We  rested  at  Fontainebleau,  where  I  visited  the 
palace.  The  King  enters  it  by  the  gate  which 
opens  upon  the  Bourbonnois  road,  and  leads  into 
a  large  court.  The  apartments  which  are  built 
round  this  court  are  of  brick,  and  are  allotted  for 
the  reception  of  officers  of  state  and  foreign 
ministers.  The  Mathurins,  who  perform  in  the 
chapel,  live  at  one  end  of  it. 

Two   flights    of   steps    carry    you    up    to    the 
palace.     The  gallery  of  stags  is    one    of  the   most 
curious   things   to   be   seen  there.     It  is  long  and 
well    lighted.     Between    every    two    windows     are 
placed,  on  pillars,  stags'  heads  of  plaster,  with  real 
horns  stuck  in  them.     Every  pair  differs  in  some- 
thing from   the  rest.     Some  are  of  an   odd   form 
by  accident,  some  by  nature,   but  all  are  equally 
surprising,  whether  by  the  redundancy  or  the  scar- 
city of  the  antlers,  and  the  positions  they  grew  in. 
Underneath  each  is  an  inscription,  denoting  the  date 
of  the   death   of  the   stag  they  belonged  to.     The 
first   are   of  Henry   the   Fourth's   killing.      It   was 
in   this   gallery   that    Christina,    Queen   of  Sweden, 
caused  her  favourite,  Monaldeschi,  to  be  murdered.^ 

I  An  Italian  by  birth,  who  had  long  been  Master  of 
the  Horse,  confident  and  favourite  to  Christina.  Becom- 
ing  tired   of  him   at   length,   she   determined  to  have  him 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  281 

There  is  another  gallery  made  by  Francis  I., 
crowded  with  pictures,  each  supported  by  two 
large  figures  in  stone,  and  each  panel  filled  with 
the  cipher  and  emblem  of  the  founder,  viz.,  a 
salamander.  This  gallery  was  one  of  the  first 
architectural  essays  after  the  restoration  of  the 
arts  in  France. 

The  chapel  is  very  long;  full  of  ancient  gild- 
ings and  ornaments.  On  the  ceiling  is  painted 
the  history  of  the  creation  of  the  world.  The 
pavement  is  of  blue  and  white  marble.  The  apart- 
ments of  the  royal  family  are  not  very  extraordi- 
nary. In  one  of  the  Queen's  rooms  is  a  ceiling 
and  floor,  which  my  guide  assured  me  had  been 
there  since  the  days  of  St.  Louis. 

I  saw  a  great  deal  of  fine  tapestry,  among  the 
rest  Le  Brun's  battles  of  Alexander,  copied  at 
the  Gobelins.  There  is  a  good  picture  of  Louis 
XI n.  in  the  King's  bedchamber,  the  wainscot 
panels  of  which  are  as  fine  as  gold  and  allegorical 
paintings  can  make  them.  The  bed  is  blue,  em- 
broidered with  silver. 


murdered,  and  she  put  her  resolve  into  execution  with  so 
much  sang  froid,  that  she  sent  a  confessor  to  him,  and  bade 
him  prepare  for  death.  Neither  the  supplications  of  the 
victim,  nor  the  remonstrances  of  her  own  confessor,  could 
turn  her  from  her  purpose.  The  unfortunate  wretch  was 
assassinated  by  one  of  her  own  servants,  in  the  Galerie  des 
Cerfs,  at  Fontainebleau,  in  1657. 


282  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

Next  to  these  is  a  council-room,  where  the 
preliminaries  of  peace  were  signed  in  1763  by  the 
Dukes  of  Bedford  and  PrasHn.^  In  one  of  the 
courts  is  a  large  piece  of  water,  stocked  with  carp 
of  a  most  amazing  magnitude. 

Fontainebleau  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  an 
extensive  sandy  valley,  encompassed  on  every  side 
by  barren  craggy  hills  or  woods.  An  infinity  of 
straight  paths  are  cut  through  the  forest  on  every 
side,  for  the  convenience  of  stag-hunting.  We 
travelled  through  a  delightful  wilderness  of  young 
trees  and  brushwood,  and  saw  at  a  distance  emi- 
nences of  stone,  covered  with  heath  and  small 
birch  trees.  They  convey  an  idea  of  the  old 
tumuli  raised  to  the  honour  of  deceased  heroes, 
in  the  northern  parts  of  Europe. 

We  proceeded  through  thick  woods  of  tall  old 
oaks,  that  intertwined  their  branches  across  the 
road,  and  arrived  about  two  at  the  Royal  Hotel 
in  Paris.  I  lost  no  time  in  sending  the  Queen  of 
Naples'  letter  to  her  ambassador,  Casafacioli,  to 
deliver  to  her  sister  the  Queen  of  France. 

I  John,  fourth  Duke  of  Bedford,  who  was  appointed 
ambassador  to  the  Court  of  Versailles  in  1762,  and  on  the 
loth  of  February,  1763,  signed  the  peace  between  England, 
France,  Spain,  and  Portugal,  called  the  Peace  of  Paris. 
M.  de  Praslin,  cousin  to  the  Duke  de  Choiseul,  was 
Minister  of  Marine. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  283 

London,  July. 

I  stopped  at  Chantilly  on  my  way  from  Paris. 
It  is  low  and  ugly.  The  most  ridiculous  serpentine 
walks  are  made  round  a  square  pond,  without 
shrubs  or  variety  ;  and  on  one  side  a  channel 
following  it,  as  broad  as  a  basin.  We  slept  at 
Clermont.  Fitzjames  is  extensive,  but  dull.  The 
cathedral  makes  a  good  figure  at  Amiens. 

We  met  at  Calais  the  Duchess  of  Devonshire, 
with  Lord  and  Lady  Spencer  and  Lady  Anne 
Spencer,  on  their  way  to  Spa  ;  and  I  had  the 
first  sight  of  my  Spanish  travels  in  print,  which 
were  lent  me  by  the  charming  Duchess  in  the 
most  flattering  manner.  She  has  an  exquisite 
figure  and  a  sweet  countenance,  though  I  have 
seen  many  more  striking  as  to  beauty;  but  she 
seems  the  picture  of  candour  and  innocence. 


Hamsterley,  Sept,  /[th,  177g. 

I  have  spent  three  weeks  agreeably  at  my 
brother's  new  lodge  at  Mounces,  on  the  Moors, 
where  we  had  fine  weather  and  excellent  sport  ; 
also  some  pleasant  parties  at  Lord  Percy's  castle 
at  Keelder,  with  Lord  and  Lady  Percy,  Lord 
Aylesford,  Mr.  Charlton  and  Mr.  Hall.  We  had 
the  border  toast,  viz.:   "The  sheep  of  the  border, 


284  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

that  claes  our  back  and  crams  our  weam,  and  may 
the  shank  bane  of  every  sheep  mak'  a  whittle 
haft  to  cut  the  throats  of  our  enemies  wi'." 

At  Keelder  is  a  large  stone  or  tomb,  called 
Brand's  Well,  a  famous  but  now  unknown  hero 
of  these  hills. 

I  rode  to  the  head  of  the  Tyne,  which  is  at  a 
sulphurous  cold  well,  where  people  come  to  bathe  ; 
it  is  in  a  wide  vale,  with  bare  hills  on  both  sides, 
from  north  to  south.  The  place  where  the  water 
rises  is  the  highest  point  of  the  valley,  and  swells 
up  so  as  to  be  able  to  let  the  water  out  either 
way  ;  the  bathers  lodge  in  a  kind  of  village  close 
by.  However,  I  am  inclined  to  think  the  source 
of  the  Tyne  is  really  at  the  head  of  Deadwater, 
a  current  which  comes  out  east  from  the  northern 
hills,  but  is  not  called  Tyne  till  it  joins  Keelder 
at  the  lodge,  where  stood  Bell's  chapel,  o^  which 
nothing  remains  but  part  of  a  cross  and  some 
large  grave-stones. 

I  dined  at  Beaufront  with  Mr.  Errington,  who 
is  as  cracked  as  ever  man  was.  I  wonder  he  is  still 
allowed  to  be  at  large  and  to  see  company.  He 
has  the  mania  of  fancying  he  has  been  created 
Duke  of  Hexham.  He  has  erected  a  pillar  in  his 
grounds,  with  the  ducal  arms,  supporters  and 
coronet,  on  Stagshaw  bank — a  most  public  station. 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  285 

as  it  is  the  rendezvous  of  an  annual  fair.  A  foreign 
title  is  his  idea,  for  a  foreign  crown  is  over  his 
door. 

I  joined  my  brother  at  Capheaton,  who  is  not 
a  little  glad  to  get  home,  after  having  been  taken 
prisoner/  We  had  a  large  party  on  the  occasion 
— Lord  Adam  Gordon  and  many  officers,  Sir  M. 
Ridley,  Mr.  Riddell  of  Swinburne,  &c.  Sir  M. 
Ridley's  father  was  the  miller  of  Blagdon  mill. 
Mr.  Riddell's  father  lived  at  Fenham,  and  was 
called  "the  auld  fox  of  Fenham,"  as  old  Sir  John 
Swinburne  was  styled  **  the  auld  carl  of  Cap- 
heaton." 

I  send  you  my  adieus  to  Mounces. 

Je  quitte  donc  demain  ce  montagneux  asile, 
Où  le  ciel,  à  mes  vœux  rendu  moins  difficile, 
A  permi  pour  un  tems  l'oubli  de  mes  malheurs. 
Ah  !   puis-je  le  quitter  sans  répandre  des  pleurs  ? 
Loin  de  tous  les  objets  où  mon  ame  ulcérée. 
Revoit  sous  maintes  formes  une  image  adorée.^ 
Loin  des  ennuis  mortels,  qu'entraine  un  peu  de  bien. 
J'avais  pu  m'etourdir  en  ne  pensant  à  rien. 
Demain  donc  finira  ce  train  de  vie  aimable. 
Mes  soucis  renaîtront — mon  bonheur  est  au  diable. 
Que  le  sommeil  est  doux  !   le  réveil  prompt  et  frais  1 
Quand  les  premiers  rayons  éclairent  nos  volets, 
De  la  cime  obscurcie  écartant  les  nuages, 

1  He  was  taken  prisoner  on  board  a  ship  coming  from 
the  Continent. 

2  His  daughter. 


286  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

Le  soleil  nous  annonce  un  jour  libre  d'orages. 

Ardens  et  pleins  d'espoir,  nos  chasseurs  empressés, 

Grimpent  sur  ces  monts  noirs,  l'un  sur  l'autre  entassés. 

Où  l'industrie  humaine  inconnue 

Laisse  voir  la  Nature  originelle  et  nue — 

Adam  les  reverroit  avec  affection, 

Porter  en  corps  l'habit,  de  leur  création. 

Le  chien  hardi,  nerveux,  sur  un  terrain  immens©, 

Passe  comme  un  éclair,  vers  le  gibier  s'avance, 

Le  suit,  s'arrête  et  reste  immobile — attentif — 

Le  chasseur  suit  de  près  d'un  pas  ferme  et  hatif— 

Un  cri  s'élève — on  part — c'est  le  coq  de  bruyère! 

Mais  il  tombe  à  l'instant  sous  l'arme  meurtrière. 

Près  du  faîte  ondoyant  de  ces  Alpes  du  Nord, 

Une  eau  fraîche  et  limpide  échappe  sans  effort; 

En  vain  veut  elle  fuir — la  mousse,  la  fougère, 

Par  un  mur  spongieux  arrêtent  sa  carrière. 

Ici  sur  le  midi,  content  de  nos  succès, 

Nous  portons  au  diner  grand  faim,  peu  d'apprêts  ; 

Puis  sur  l'herbe  étendus  (sofa  doux  quoique  agreste), 

Nous  digérons  en  paix,  et  dormons  la  sieste. 

Le  zephir  parfumé,  l'air  pur,  délicieux. 

Assoupissent  nos  sens — ainsi  dormoient  les  dieux. 


Plymouth^  October  2nd, 

From  Newby  (Lord  Grantham's),  a  finely 
furnished  house  with  capital  antiques,  Sir  Thomas 
and  I  set  out  for  the  camp  of  cavalry  at  Exeter. 
The  country  is  hilly  about  there,  with  much  moor, 
and  very  bad  roads,  and  horrible  bridges. 

I   visited    Mr.    Parker    at    Saltram,   where    we 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC,  287 

met  Lord  Grantham,  Mr.  and  Miss  Robinson, 
the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Rutland,  Colonel 
Hervey,  and  Admiral  Shuldham.  Saltram  is  in 
a  noble  situation,  commanding  a  view  of  Cat- 
water,  Plymouth  citadel  and  Mount  Edgcumbe, 
and  has  a  fine  hanging  wood  and  walk  of  two 
miles  about  the  water.     The   house  is   grand. 

Our  first  expedition  firom  thence  was  up  the 
Plym,  a  charming  ride  for  miles,  through  vales 
and  hanging  oak  woods  of  vast  extent.  Salmon 
abounds  in  this  little  river.  From  the  Barn,  four 
miles  south  of  Saltram,  is  a  glorious  view  of  all 
the  Sound,  Plymouth,  its  forts  and  islands,  the 
Hamoaze,  docks,  shipping,  Mount  Edgcumbe,  and 
the  camps. 

Our  next  course  took  us  across  the  Lavy  at 
low  water,  and  we  rode  through  Plymouth,  which 
is  ill  paved  and  ugly;  thence  two  miles  further 
on  to  Dock,  on  as  bad  a  road  as  any  in  England  ; 
took  boat  at  Malton  Cove,  crossed  the  Narrows, 
and  landed  near  the  low  gate  of  Mount  Edg- 
cumbe.  Avenues  lead  up  to  the  house;  a  good 
approach,  low  gardens,  charming  views  of  the 
sea,  shipping,  fort,  islands,  &c. 

The  vegetation  is  surprising— such  handsome 
evergreens,  cypresses,  magnolias,  myrtles,  all 
blooming  in   the  open   air.     The  house  is   Gothic 


288  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

and  ill  constructed,  with  an  ugly  hall  of  Devon- 
shire marble  ;  but  there  is  no  describing  the 
grandeur  of  the   prospects. 

There  is  a  new  road  cut  along  the  side  of 
the  hill  towards  the  sea,  through  a  wilderness 
of  pines,  arbutus,  and  other  evergreens.  Close  to 
the  park  is  Maker  Church,  from  the  steeple  of 
which  are  made  the  signals  ;  and  near  it  is  an 
encampment. 

The  dockyard  is  a  grand  piece  of  work.  All 
the  buildings  are  constructed  of  the  materials  dug 
out  to  form  the  docks — a  marble  excellent  for 
lime. 

We  went  with  a  large  party  to  meet  the  Duke 
of  Rutland's  regiment,  commanded  by  Colonel 
St.  Léger,  coming  into  barracks  ;  then  went  on 
board  the  Ocean,  Capt.  Ourry,  and  sailed  into 
the   Sound,  saluting  the   Lord  Admiral,   &c. 

Next   day  we   left    Saltram   for    Bath. 


LondoUy  January  ^th,  1780. 

I    am  just    returned    from    a    visit    at    Belvoir 

Castle,  in  company  with  Sir  Thomas  G .    It  is 

the  worst  disposed  and  coldest  house  in  England, 
and  I  doubt  whether  anything  can  ever  be  made 
of  it,  on   account   of  its   exposed,  bleak   situation, 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  289 

and  the  inconvenient  plan  it  is  constructed  upon.* 
The  oldest  parts  are  Rose's  and  Stanton's  tower; 
the  latter  so  called,  because  the  holder  of  Stanton 
estate  is  obliged  to  come,  on  summons,  with  a 
hundred  men  to  defend  that  tower.  The  cellar 
under  it  is  curious  for  its  roof.  The  chapel 
seems  ancient;  the  rest  is  modernised  and  very 
ugly.  Long  reaches  of  even  wall  render  the 
general  appearance  of  Belvoir,  from  below  and 
from  the  other  hills,  hke  a  Patagonian  sheepfold. 
The  gallery  is  low,  but  very  long,  and  the  picture- 
room  is  good.  The  bed-chambers  are  bad,  all  too 
low  in  the  ceilings. 

The  Duke  and  Duchess  were  very  polite  and 
hospitable.  It  is  impossible  to  do  the  honours 
better  than  she  does,  or  to  be  more  pleasing;  in- 
deed, to  look  at  her  is  of  itself  a  gratification, 
for  she  is  extraordinarily  beautiful.*  They  have 
three  little  children. 

The    party    in    the    castle,    besides    ourselves 

1  This  opinion  has  not  been  confirmed  ;  for  the  skill  of 
the  architect,  and  the  good  taste  of  the  present  Duke, 
have  rendered  Belvoir  Castle  one  of  the  most  comfortable, 
as  it  is  one  of  the  noblest,  habitations  in  Great  Britain. 

2  Few  women  in  Europe  surpassed  either  of  the  two 
last  Duchesses  of  Rutland  in  grace,  beauty,  and  every  good 
quality  that  can  exalt  or  adorn  the  sex.  Mr.  Swinburne, 
of  course,  alluded  to  the  Duchess  Isabella,  daughter  of 
Charles,  fourth  Duke  of  Beaufort. 

VOL.    I  ,g 


290 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


and  the  family,  consisted  of  Lord  Chatham,  the 
Thorotons,  Messrs.  Pulteney,^  Taylor,  and  Crofts, 
Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  and  Mr.  Chamberlayn,  a 
blind  man  who  rides  extremely  hard  fox-hunting, 
and  tells  wonderful  stories.^  The  hours  were  very 
irregular. 

There    is    an   extensive,    but    interesting,   view 
from  the  brow  of  the  hill.     The  castle  looks  well 


1  Afterwards  Sir  James,  who  was  Secretary  at  War 
and  married  Lady  Bath. 

2  One  of  the  stories  attributed  to  him,  though  it  has 
been  given  to  another  equally  celebrated  dealer  in  fiction, 
runs  thus:  He  was  talking  of  his  travels  in  Switzerland, 
where,  par  parenthèse,  he  had  never  been  ;  so  someone 
asked  him  if  he  recollected  Mont  Blanc.  "  I  shall  not 
easily  forget  it,"  replied  he,  "  for  I  never  had  such  sport 
in  all  my  life — Nimrod  the  hunter,  who  did  things  in  good 
form,  never  bagged  such  game."  "Sport  on  Mont  Blanc  1" 
exclaimed  the  other.  "Yes."  "What! — chamois?"  "No, 
sir,  cherubim — ah,  you  may  well  stare!  But  cherubim,  I 
repeat,  as  sure  as  they  and  seraphim  continually  do  cry." 
Being  pressed  to  explain,  he  continued  :  "  Egad,  I  had 
scarcely  reached  the  summit  before  Bang,  my  pet  spaniel, 
bolted  forward,  and  in  a  few  seconds  ran  back  wagging 
his  tail,  and — may  I  be  set  down  as  a  goose  if  he  did 
not  drop  a  cherubim  at  my  feet.  Poor  little  thing — it  had 
evidently  stayed  out  rather  late,  lost  its  way  among  the 
clouds,  and  had  been  half  frozen  ;  so  I  just  wet  its  lips 
with  a  little  brandy,  placed  it  in  my  bosom,  and  carried 
it  down  to  Chamouny,  where  it  quickly  revived.  I  then 
put  it  into  a  cage,  and  had  the  pleasure  to  hear  it  sing. 
I  intended  to  bring  it  over  as  a  present  to  Wilberforce, 
but  my  pious  intentions  were  frustrated."  "  Why,  what 
became  of  it  ?  "     "  Confound  it,  sir,  the  cursed  cat  ate  it." 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  29I 

from  some  points  of  the  woods.  The  library  is 
well  stored  with  old  books  of  history,  antiquity, 
and  jurisprudence. 

I  accompanied  Sir  Thomas  and  Sir  Joshua  to 
Burleigh,  where  we  saw  the  pictures.  It  is  far 
from  being  a  capital  collection.  The  Raphael  is 
undoubtedly  a  copy,  and  the  Carlo  Dolci  a  very 
ignoble  character.  Some  heads  and  sketches 
are  excellent.  Two  monkeys  in  fine  habits,  by 
Teniers,  are  very  good. 

I  have,  since  my  return,  been  to  see  Sir 
Joshua's  picture  of  the  Nativity,  for  the  new 
college  at  Oxford,  where  it  is  to  be  executed  on 
glass.  Non  mi  place  I  It  is  a  sad,  monstrous, 
bad-coloured   thing. 

We  were  at  a  pleasant  dinner  yesterday,  at 
Mr.  John  Pitt's,  where  were  Lord  and  Lady  Edg- 
cumbe,*  with  their  cub  of  a  son  in  a  Highland 
dress;  and  Mrs.  Greville,  a  charming  woman,  whom 
I  sat  next  to,  and  whose  agreeable  way  of  con- 
versing delighted  me.  From  thence  we  went  to 
Lady  Lucan's  rout.  Her  own  drawings  and 
paintings  furnish  the  rooms. 


1  The  then  Viscount  Edgcumbe,  who  was  raised  to 
the  earldom  of  Mount  Edgcumbe  in  1789.  The  youth  in 
the   Highland  dress  was  the  present   Earl's  father. 

19 — 2 


202  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

Ostend,  February  lyth. 

We  were  tempted  by  Mr.  Elliot,  the  British 
envoy  at  Brussels,  to  come  hither  in  his  sloop 
from  Margate,  after  paying  a  visit  to  Lord 
Holland  at  Kingsgate,  so  called  from  the  landing 
of  Charles  and  James  in  1683.  We  embarked  at 
seven  in  the  evening  ;  the  sea  was  extremely 
rough,  and  we  rolled  much  all  night.  Our  people 
appeared  to  know  little  of  the  coast,  for  when 
we  discovered,  at  daybreak,  the  Flemish  downs, 
they  disputed  about  which  was  Nieuport,  and 
which  Ostend.  I  convinced  them  that  what  we 
saw  was  neither  one  nor  t'other,  but  a  place  to 
the  north  of  Ostend,  so  we  had  to  veer  about, 
and  with  such  unskilful  steersmen  and  so  feeble 
a  crew,  that  it  was  a  work  of  great  difficulty  and 
danger. 

By  the  help  of  some  Tuscan  mariners,  who 
were  passengers,  we  accomplished  it,  and  bore 
away  fifteen  miles  southward  along  the  shore, 
running  with  the  strength  of  a  high  tide  over 
sandbanks  and  shoals,  where  few  ships  ever 
passed  with  impunity.  About  one  we  came  off 
the  harbour  of  Ostend,  but,  as  the  tide  ebbed,  we 
could  not  get  in.  The  rain  and  wind  increased  ; 
the  sea  ran  mountains  high,  and   the   ship  tossed 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  293 

about  so  cruelly,  that  we  boldly  ventured  into  an 
English  boat,  and  got  safe  into  Ostend,  though 
with  great  risk  and  a  complete  wetting.  The 
ship  did  not  get  in  till  seven  hours  after. 

Mr.  Elliot  set  off  for  Brussels.  We  were  com- 
pelled to  remain  for  want  of  horses.  Many  Dutch, 
English,  and  Baltic  trading  ships  are  in  the  harbour. 
Its  entrance  is  dangerous,  and  many  vessels  are 
lost  there.  The  women  dress  here  in  coloured 
camlet  hoods  and  cloaks  ;  the  mariners  in  blue 
tunics  over  red  waistcoats. 


Rheims,  February  2^rd, 

We  left  Ostend  on  the  i8th,  hired  four  carriage 
horses,  very  dear,  on  account  of  the  tricks  of  the 
postmasters,  but  had  no  trouble  at  all  at  the 
douane.  We  traversed  an  ugly  country  to  Ypres. 
They  give  the  horses  brown  bread  in  a  trough. 
The  price  of  posting  is  expensive  in  the  Empress 
Queen's  dominions. 

Passed  Menin,  a  dismantled  frontier  town. 
Its  remaining  gate  has  the  French  arms  over  it. 
There  are  a  number  of  harpies  in  the  shape  of 
commis  on  both  frontiers,  but  a  few  sous  set  all 
right  and  easy. 

The  road  to  Lille  is  almost  impassable.     The 


294  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

streets  are  quite  infectious,  from  the  cartloads  of 
dirt  carried  out  for  manure. 

We  travelled  through  avenues  of  Lombardy 
poplars  to  Cambray,  in  frost  and  snow.  They 
advertise  there  the  sale  of  red  and  black  ashes 
for  manure.  I  bought  some  ruffles,  fabrique  du 
pays. 

From  Cambray  we  had  most  abominable  roads, 
over  woody  hills  and  deep  fields,  to  Laon  ;  it  was 
hard  labour  to  get  there  at  all.  The  King's 
foundries  are  near  La  Fere.  About  Laon  we 
began  to  get  into  a  wine  country.  Laon  is  a 
small  city  of  an  oblong  form,  situated  upon  a  com- 
manding eminence.  The  steeples  of  the  cathedral 
are  singular  and  intricate  ;  the  outside  is  supported 
by  pillars. 

We  arrived  at  Rheims  after  a  tedious  drive; 
for  the  narrow  wheels  of  the  carts  and  wagons 
cut  up  the  roads,  and  render  them  very  rough. 
The  country  is  bare  and  ugly.  My  sister,  Mrs. 
Charlton,  who  resides  here,  was  much  pleased  to 
see  me,  and  persuaded  me  to  remain  a  couple  of 
days  with  her. 

Rheims  is  ill  built,  the  houses  of  wood,  and 
the  streets  narrow,  with  a  broad  kennel  in  the 
middle.  The  great  square  is  handsome.  There  is 
a   bronze  statue   of  Louis   XV.,    a    very    middling 


COURTS    OP    PAKIS,    NAPLES,    ETC.  295 

performance,  the  hands  and  arms  long  and 
withered,  the  attitude  heavy  and  iU  expressed. 
It    bears    an    inscription    something    to    this   pur- 

P""^*  ■""  De  l'amour  des  Français  instruisez  la  terre, 
Louis  fit  ici  le  serment  d'être  leur  père, 
Serment  qu'U  ne  viola  jamais,  &c. 

Two  colossal  statues  support  the  pedestal, 
which  I  took  for  Peace  or  Abundance,  and  Forti- 
tude; but  I  ought  to  have  suspected  French 
allegory  of  lying  deeper,  for  in  the  description  of 
the  place  I  find  that  one  (a  woman  with  a  hon 
and  rudder)  is  Moderate  Government,  and  the 
other  (a  man  sitting  leaning  on  his  arm),  the 
happiness  of  the  people  under  that  government. 
Œdipus  himself  would  have  been  puzzled  to  make 

out  this  enigma. 

The  abbey  of  St.  Nicaise  is  a  beautiful  Gothic 
church.  It  contains  an  ancient  sarcophagus  of 
great  size,  with  basso-relievos  representing  a  hero 
hunting  a  lion,  attended  by  figures  dressed  as 
Dacians;  one  has  a  Phrygian  cap,  and,  but  for 
their  beards,  they  might  all  be  Phrygians;  but  I 
do  not  recollect  ever  to  have  seen  that  nation 
portrayed  with  beards.  The  sculpture  is  not  of 
the  best  time,  but  before  Constantine. 

The   St.   Ampoule   is   kept   at  the  Benedictine 


2g6  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

abbey  of  St.  Remy;^  a  very  ugly  old  Gothic 
edifice,  of  the  first  ages  of  French  devotion,  with 
stumpy,  thick  pillars  clustered  together,  and  clumsy 
capitals,  some  of  which  have  binds — an  old  mode 
in  the  Gothic  style.  This  architecture,  though 
shorter  in  its  proportions,  has  a  great  affinity  with 
that  of  Durham  Abbey. 

The  cathedral  in  the  centre  of  Rheims  is  a 
stupendous  pile,  and  as  much  crowded  with  statues 
as  the  Domo  of  Milan.  Though  a  wonderful 
piece  of  Gothic  magnificence,  I  confess  that  York 
Minster  pleases  me  more.  The  painted  glass  is 
admirable  ;  the  fine  red  purple  among  it  is  pecu- 
liarly pleasing  to  the  eye. 

To  end  the  evening,  my  sister  took  me  to 
an  assembly  and  supper,  of  very  queer-looking 
folk,  but,  en  revanche,  we  had  excellent  cham- 
pagne. 

1  The  St.  Ampoule,  or  holy  phial,  which  contains  the 
consecrated  oil  made  use  of  to  anoint  the  French  monarchs 
from  Clovis  down  to  Charles  X.,  was,  according  to  tradi- 
tion, brought  down  from  heaven  by  a  dove,  and  delivered 
into  the  hands  of  St.  Remy,  who  was  apprized  of  its 
object  by  a  vision.  This  holy  phial  was  taken  from  the 
abbey  in  1793,  and  broken  to  atoms  by  one  of  the  sacrile- 
gious deputies  of  the  National  Convention  ;  but  the  clergy 
now  assert,  at  least  they  did  so  prior  to  the  coronation  of 
Charles  X.,  that  the  phial  broken  by  the  terrorists  was  not 
the  real  St.  Ampoule,  but  a  fac-simile,  the  true  relic  having 
been  secreted  and  preserved. 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  297 

PariSt  March  ist,  1780. 

From  Rheims  the  country  improves,  and  about 
Fismes  grows  hilly  and  agreeable.  Soissons  has 
a  good  appearance,  though  it  is  rather  a  desolate 
city.  We  passed  extensive  forests  of  beech  and 
other  timber  of  considerable  size,  cut  into  rides, 
belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Orleans,  who  has  a  seat 
thereabouts.  We  slept  at  Villers  Cotterets,  and 
next  day  reached  Paris,  through  avenues  pruned 
up  like  broomsticks. 

I  have  seen  Jerningham,  Laville,  and  my  two 
nephews  at  the  English  Monks,  where  I  dined 
with  them,  and  supped  with  Madame  Martinville, 
with  the  Duke  de  Lauzun  and  M.  de  Vismes. 

I  went  last  night  to  see  the  opera  of  Atys — 
the  words  by  Quenault.  That  horrid  screamer. 
Mile,  des  Plant,  was  worse  than  ever.  The  dances 
were  moelleuses;  but  young  Vestris  and  Madame 
Theodore  were  charming.  Edward  Dillon  has  just 
got  the  regiment  of  Guienne  infantry. 


(Without  date,) 

We  left  Paris  on  the  second,  on  our  way  to 
Fontainebleau,  where  the  quantity  of  country-seats 
on  the  verge  of  the  forest  has  a  fine  effect  in  the 
landscape.      Madame  de   Montesson's   villa   is   one 


298  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

of  the  largest,  and  commands  a  noble  prospect: 
the  forest,  even  without  leaves,  is  magnificent. 
We  came  in  sight  of  the  Loire,  near  Briare, 
about  noon,  and  enjoyed  the  grand  and  unequalled 
prospects  which  that  noble  river  affords — such  a 
fine  reach  of  winding  water,  with  a  noble  breadth 
of  surface,  such  luxuriance  of  culture  and  variety 
of  country.  As  we  advanced,  all  these  beauties 
increased  upon  us.  From  the  brow  above  Pouilly 
is  the  most  enchanting  coup  d'ail  imaginable. 

Nevers  is  an  ugly  town.  The  motto  over  its 
northern  gate  is  a  sample  of  French  flattery,  viz., 
"  Au  grand  homme  modeste,  au  père  de  son  peuple, 
au  maître  de  nos  cœurs."  This  was  meant  for 
Louis  Quinze,  "  dans  les  beaux  jours  de  son 
règne.'" 


I  The  name  given  to  Louis  XV.,  "  dans  les  beaux 
jours  de  son  règne,"  was  "  le  bien  aimé,"  an  honourable 
epithet  that  he  did  not  long  retain,  for  the  love  of  his 
subjects  was  soon  converted  into  hatred  and  contempt. 
The  following  lines  were  in  the  mouths  of  all  the  people 
many  years  before  his  death: — 

"  Le  bien  aimé  de  l'Almanac, 
N'est  pas  le  bien  aimé  de  la  France; 
Il  fait  tout  ab  hoc  ab  hac, 
Le  bien  aimé  de  l'Almanac. 
Il  met  tout  dans  le  même  sac, 
Et  la  justice  et  la  finance  ; 
Le  bien  aimé  de  l'Almanac, 
N'est  pas  le  bien  aimé  de  la  France  1" 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  299 

Moulins  is  a  pretty  city,  with  walks  and  foun- 
tains. The  bridge  over  the  Allier  is  handsome. 
There  are  many  mulberry  trees,  and  the  environs 
are  gay  and  pleasant  :  the  female  knifesellers  are 
as  tormenting  as  Italian  beggars. 

We  breakfasted  at  La  Palisse,  an  ugly  seat 
of  the  Chabannes  family,  who  reside  there  half 
the  year.  The  Loire  begins  to  be  navigable 
about  Roanne.  Crowds  of  long  slender  boats, 
that  ply  on  it,  are  loaded  with  all  sorts  of  mer- 
chandise from  Lyons,  and  many  with  a  bad  kind 
of  coal.  The  President  de  St.  Vincent  has  a 
large  country-house  there,  with  terraces  one  above 
the  other,  and  a  fine  stream  below. 

At  Château  Morand,  a  seat  of  the  Mirepoix, 
one  enjoys  a  most  extensive  prospect  to  the 
north,  where  the  view  is  only  arrested  by  the 
dimness  of  the  horizon.  From  thence  are  steep 
mountains  with  snow  on  their  summits,  and  a 
most  wild  landscape.  We  descended  the  long 
Montagne  de  Tarare,  through  eminences  of  very 
agreeable  aspect,  and  fine  woods  of  oak  and  silver 
firs,  with  country-seats  and  villages  below.  The 
vale  of  Bresle  is  very  rich  and  handsome,  but  the 
roads  are  most  abominable. 

We  met  the  Baron  de  Polnitz  at  Lyons,  and 
went   to   see   Les  Plaideurs,  by  Racine,   wretchedly 


300  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

acted.  The  afterpiece  was  MidaSy  with  Gretry's 
music,  but  so  ill  sung,  that  Midas  himself,  so  far 
from  being  wrong  in  his  judgment,  would  have 
deserved  his  ass's  ears  if  he  had  not  condemned 
Apollo.  It  was  a  full  house,  with  innumerable 
ugly  women. 

We  agreed  with  a  vetiurino  to  take  us  to 
Turin  in  seven  days,  for  twenty-four  louis,  and 
found  it  a  very  comfortable  way  of  travelling, 
having  laid  in  a  good  stock  of  hermitage  and 
tongues.  The  rivers  are  delightful  on  entering 
Savoy,  and  we  had  good  roads,  which  were  more 
enjoyable  for  being  a  novelty. 

At  Turin  we  dined  at  Lord  Mountstuart's 
(the  British  envoy),  with  Lord  Herbert,  &c.  ; 
next  day,  at  the  Count  de  Monstresol's.  We 
then  continued  our  route  through  Alessandria  to 
Fiorenzolo. 

I  remarked  the  method  of  dressing  vines  in 
this  part  of  Lombardy.  Among  the  rows  of  corn 
is  a  row  of  fallow,  in  the  midst  of  which  grows 
the  vine,  supported  by  small  poles  stuck  in  lattice 
wire.  On  each  side,  the  twigs  are  carried  out 
to  larger  poles,  stuck  into  the  ground  so  as  to 
slope  out  very  much  at  top  ;  and  the  arrange- 
ment altogether  forms  a  funnel. 

On  the  22nd  we  arrived  at  Parma.     Went  to 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  30! 

the  Boschettina.  I  admired  the  "  Madonna  della 
Scobella"  by  Correggio,  particularly  the  Infant 
Jesus  —  his  eyes  and  graceful  attitude  ;  it  is 
Divinity  itself.  What  I  found  fault  with  —  if 
such  an  expression  can  be  allowable  —  was  the 
heaviness    of   the    clouds. 

We  visited  the  Benedictine  refectory,  to  see 
Correggio's  "  Last  Supper."  I  learnt  here  the 
manner  of  the  death  of  the  late  Infante  Don 
Philip,  who  fell  from  his  horse,  and  was  devoured 
by  his  own  hounds.^  It  was  given  out  that 
he  was  taken  ill  at  Alessandria,  where  he  had 
been  to  see  a  favourite  lady  whom  he  wished  to 
marry. 

His  son,  now  reigning,  is  a  fat  fool,  dotes 
upon  the  Dominican  friars,  gets  up  at  daybreak 
to  go  to  matins,  and  plagues  the  poor  priests 
out  of  their  lives  if  they  do  not  attend  to  all 
their  duties.  His  wife,  the  Archduchess  Maria 
Ameha,  is  a  very  bad  paymistress.  She  buys  a 
horse  one  day  upon  tick,  to  sell  it  the  next  for 
half-price,  to  raise  the  wind.  The  Grand  Master 
of  Loretto  is  just  returned  hither  from  Parma, 
where  he  has  been  in  vain  soliciting  payment  for 
his   bill   of  expenses   (400  sequins)   whilst  she  was 

I  The  Infante  Don  Philip  of  Parma  is  said  by  his 
biographers  to  have  died  of  small-pox  in  1759. 


302  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

at  his  house.  The  hereditary  prince  has  a  separate 
household. 

There  are  two  pieces  by  the  divine  Correggio 
in  a  side  chapel  of  the  cathedral,  which  is  as 
dark   as   pitch. 

The  palace  is  pitiful.  The  plan  M.  du  Tillot 
had  adopted  for  building  it  was  sumptuous,  but 
as  he  opposed  the  Duke's  marriage  with  the  Arch- 
duchess, she  has  taken  care  it  should  be  laid  aside. 
The  old  palace  was  never  finished  ;  in  it  is  the 
great  Farnesian  theatre,  last  made  use  of  when 
Don  Carlos  was  here.  It  is  in  the  style  of  a 
Roman  theatre.  The  orchestra  is  on  the  right 
hand  of  the  audience,  in  a  recess  of  the  pit. 
There  are  no  stage-boxes,  nor  any  partitions. 
The  pit  can  be  filled  with  water,  if  required,  for 
naumachias.  It  holds  14,000  persons,  and  would 
require  11,000  francs'  worth  of  wax  to  illuminate 
it.     It  is  now  useless. 

There  is  a  bad  French  bust  there  of  the  Infante 
Don  Philip,  and  one  of  the  Empress  his  daughter 
(Elizabeth,  first  wife  of  Joseph  II.)  She  was  a 
most  accomplished  creature  :  but  to  what  end 
were  all  her  talents  and  charms?  In  a  humble 
sphere  I  could  furnish  a  parallel. 

I  saw  many  good  Parmeggianos,  one  Schidone, 
and  the  beauty  of  beauties,  the  Correggio,  as  fresh 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  303 

as  the  day  it  was  painted.  I  could  have  gazed 
on  it  for  ever.  Such  brilliancy,  such  expression, 
such  truth  of  colour  I  The  smile  of  the  Virgin  is 
so  noble,  natural  and  complacent,  no  copy  would 
ever  come  up  to  it,  and  not  Raphael  himself, 
divine  as  he  is,  can  do  more  for  my  feelings  than 
Correggio.  It  is  on  fig-tree  wood.  The  picture 
was  painted  in  1523,  for  Donna  Cola,  wife  of  Orazio 
Mergongi,  for  four  hundred  livres,  equal  to  one 
hundred  sequins  now.  She  was  so  pleased  with 
it,  that  she  gave  him,  over  and  above  his  bargain, 
a  sow,  two  loads  of  fagots,  and  some  sacks  of 
corn.  This  account  is  taken  from  a  MS.  of  the 
Custodes  Batistero,  and  contradicts  the  story  of 
Correggio  having  been  ill  paid,  and  dying  from  the 
fatigue  of  carrying  the  picture. 

We  journeyed  to  Modena,  and  saw  the  hospital 
built  by  the  late  Duke,  called  Pantheon  Atesti- 
num.  His  statue  is  in  coarse  white  marble,  look- 
ing like  a  fool  as  much  as  the  original  could  do. 
The  Duomo  is  gloomy. 

We  next  passed  through  a  country  producing 
little  corn,  but  studded  with  elms,  pollarded  to 
death.  At  San  Arcangelo  is  a  brick  and  stucco 
arch,  erected  to  Pope  Ganganelli,  who  was  born 
here.  The  cultivation  is  very  poor  throughout  this 
most  charming  country. 


304  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

Near  Rimini  I  came  in  sight  of  the  Adriatic 
Sea.  The  shore  is  planted  with  mulberries  and 
vines  to  the  water's  edge.  The  tints  in  the  waves 
were  very  singular  and  strangely  marked  ;  the  first 
line  dark  bluish  green,  going  off  into  a  bright 
yellow  green,  terminating  near  the  land  in  a 
muddy  yellow. 

Rimini  is  large  and  ugly.  The  famous  bridge 
of  Augustus,  though  of  marble,  resembles  Tibur- 
tine  stone.     Its  architecture  is  simple. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  town  is  a  triumphal 
arch,  erected  in  honour  of  Augustus,  repaired  with 
brick.  The  unfinished  Franciscan  church  was 
erected  in  1450,  by  Sigismund  Pandolfo  Malatesta, 
Lord  of  Rimini.  It  is  crowded  in  every  part 
with  his  cipher  and  arms.  The  inside  is  heaped 
with  statues  and  embroidered  with  foliages,  of 
the  time  of  the  first  revival  of  arts  in  Florence. 

We  passed  through  Cuma,  a  large  city, 
prettily  situated,  the  native  place  of  Pius  VI., 
and  slept  at  Pesaro,  near  which  is  Gradasa,  a 
seat  of  the  Marchesa  Mosca,  formerly  the  villa 
of  the  Dukes  of  Urbino.  It  is  delightfully 
situated,  with  a  fine  land  and  water  prospect,  and 
has  a  pleasant  walk  along  the  river  down  to  the 
port  on  the  sea.  Not  a  shell  is  to  be  found  on 
the    sea-shore.      Tamarisks    grow    in    the    hedges. 


CHARLES-MAURICE  DE   TALLEYRAND- 
PÈRIGORD,  PRINCE  DE  BÈNÉVENT 

After  a  painting  hy  Ary  ScJicffcr,  in  the  possession 
of  Mgr.  le  duc  iVAuniale^  Paris 


-g^fcyi.^    ;*:>!' ^y     <?  .^-,^^^>j2.^ 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  305 

and  lambs  without  end  are  selling  for  Easter 
Sunday. 

Pesaro  was  the  winter  residence  of  the  sove- 
reigns of  Urbino,  and  at  that  time  the  most 
agreeable  place  in  Italy,  and  the  school  of  polite- 
ness and  gallantry.  It  is  a  large,  well-built  city, 
with  many  palaces,  monuments  of  its  ancient 
grandeur.  It  is  inhabited  by  a  poor  nobility,  and 
almost  ruined  by  the  change  of  masters  ;  which 
is  the  case  of  almost  all  the  lesser  towns  on 
the  coast.  The  air  of  Pesaro  is  not  good  in 
summer. 

There  are  very  pretty  women  about  Fano,  a 
pleasant  town  on  the  beach.  Sinigaglia  is  a  more 
stirring  place,  and  has  a  canal  and  quay,  with  a 
whole  quarter  newly  built,  amongst  which  the  un- 
finished college  of  the  Jesuits  cuts  a  great  figure. 
The  view  from  thence  of  Ancona  is  beautiful; 
its  promontory  and  buildings  advancing  into  the 
sea  are  noble  objects  ;  the  richest  cultivation  on 
all  its  hills  renders  its  environs  delicious.  The 
Lazaretto  is  a  grand  pentagon  in  an  island.  The 
ascent  and  descent  to  and  from  the  town  are  very 
steep,  but  the  roads  are  good.  Trajan's  arch  is 
on  the  pier  ;  several  ships  are  there,  French  and 
English. 

VOL.    I  20 


306  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

We  journeyed  on  to  Loretto,  through  a  most 
beautiful  country.  It  stands  on  the  summit  of 
a  lofty  eminence  that  commands  views  over  a  rich 
and  hilly  country  on  every  side,  and  the  sea  at 
four  or  five  miles'  distance.  Its  population  seems 
numerous;  the  buildings  are  paltry,  except  the 
church  and  great  hospital.  The  outside  of  the 
church  is  not  of  a  pleasing  architecture,  and 
the  inside  is  greasy  and  smoky.  I  never  was 
in  a  dirtier  place,  nor  one  so  crowded  with  the 
most  filthy,  nauseous  beings  in  the  human  form. 
Villains  of  all  denominations  and  countries  come 
as  pilgrims,  through  devotion,  idleness,  or  a  desire 
of  atoning  for  their  crimes. 

We  were  ordered  to  leave  our  canes  at  the 
door,  and  then  the  soldiers  made  way  for  us  into 
the  Casa  Santa,  which  is  in  a  blaze  of  light,  from 
the  quantity  of  lamps  reflected  by  heaps  of  dia- 
monds, and  plates  of  gold  and  silver,  that  cover 
all  the  walls.  The  basso-relievos  are  very  fine  ; 
the  ex  votos  of  numberless  crowned  heads  hang 
in  clusters  about  the  inside,  and  seem  neglected, 
notwithstanding  their  immense  value.  The  trea- 
sury is  a  large  room,  with  cupboards,  containing 
incredible  riches  in  diamonds,  precious  stones, 
pearls,  &c.  What  a  pillage  may,  perhaps,  be 
made  here  at  a   future  day,   by  some  now  unborn 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  307 

Vandal  I — enough  to  buy  kingdoms.*  There  is  a 
fine  Madonna  by  Raphael. 

We  set  off  at  noon,  through  a  charming 
country  enclosed  with  olive  plantations,  vines, 
and  corn,  and  pulse  of  all  the  sorts,  except  rice. 
We  passed  through  the  gates  of  Maurata,  a  large 
city  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  a  picturesque  object, 
with  its  domes.  We  got  back  into  the  mountains, 
where  the  valleys  are  delicious,  but  the  roads 
narrow  and  dangerous  ;  which  we  experienced  by 
the  postilion  not  locking  the  wheel,  and  being 
obliged  to  drive  full  gallop  above  a  mile  down 
the  winding  roads,  with  rocks  on  one  hand,  and 
a  precipice  on  the  other.     We  slept  at  Tolentino. 

Next  day  we  ascended  to  a  large  circular 
meadow  on  the  highest  point  of  the  road,  called 
Col  Fiorito.  The  water  is  marshy,  and  here  rise 
the  brooks  that  run  different  ways — one  into  the 
Adriatic,  the  other  into  the  Tiber.  These  places 
must  have  been  craters  of  volcanoes,  extinct  for 
many  ages,  and  now  are  subterranean  lakes,  or 
reservoirs,  covered  with  a  thin  coat  of  soil.  Here 
very  lately  was  committed  a  great  robbery.     Forty 

I  The  Vandals  wer&  bora,  for  the  Republican  armies 
quickly  disposed  of  these  treasures,  and  what  little  escaped 
the  first  pillage  was  afterwards  swallowed  up  by  the  Im- 
perial legions. 

20 — 2 


3o8 


LETTERS     FROM    THE 


ruffians    plundered   a   number  of  merchants   going 
to  the  fair  of  Sinigaglia. 

We  came  to  Palo,  a  village  famous  for  its 
paper-mills  and  grotto,  a  cavern  full  of  crystal- 
lizations, &c.  Through  a  long  and  superlatively 
beautiful  descent,  varied  by  grand  views  from 
Foligno,  we  arrived  at  Rome.  Fireworks  were 
going  on  at  the  Castle  St.  Angelo.  We  stayed 
only  to  dine  with  the  Senator,  and  left  the 
"eternal  city"   for   Naples. 


Naples,  May  2^th. 

We  went  a  day  or  two  ago  to  Pompeii,  and 
dined  in  the  country-house.  The  city  was  built 
on  various  lavas.  The  ruins  of  the  temple  are  of 
the  same  order  of  architecture  as  those  of  Paestum. 
The  paintings  of  the  rooms  delighted  me  as  much 
as  ever.  The  shops,  with  their  stone  parapets, 
are  exactly  like  the  modern  ones  of  Naples  and 
Rome. 

I  have  made  several  excursions  with  Minasi. 
We  sailed  on  the  gulf,  and  ran  into  Meta,  at  the 
end  of  the  plain  of  Sorrento  ;  dined  at  a  fishing- 
house;  then  walked  up  the  rich  plain,  the  high 
cultivation  of  which  exceeds  that  of  the  Terra  di 
Lavoro.  Another  day  we  went  to  Vietri,  where 
we  lodged  at  the  Dominican  convent. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  309 

In  the  mountains  above  Tropea  are  large 
tracts  of  chesnuts,  and  the  small-leaved  ash,  the 
omas,  which  produces  the  manna.  They  do  not 
plant  it,  but  cut  down  the  strong  stems,  and 
spring  it  from  the  old  stocks.  In  July  they  make 
a  small  gash  leaning  upwards,  the  second  day 
another,  and  form  cups  with  maple  leaves,  into 
which  the  gum  exudes. 

The  tyranny  exercised  on  the  poor  peasants  in 
this  article  is  very  great.  The  manna  is  farmed 
out,  and  a  certain  number  of  countrymen  are 
appointed  to  gather  it,  during  which  time  they 
are  not  at  liberty  to  absent  themselves,  or  under- 
take the  most  necessary  labours  for  themselves. 
They  scarcely  derive  any  benefit  from  their  work, 
as  they  are  paid  five  carlini  for  a  rotolo  of  manna 
(thirty-three  ounces),  which  the  farmers  sell  in 
Naples  for  nine  carlini  a  pound  (twelve  ounces). 
If  they  burn  or  destroy  the  trees,  though  \nld, 
their  punishment  is  very  severe  ;  and  if  the 
smallest  quantity  is  found  in  their  houses,  they 
are  sent  to  prison.  Eight  hundred  poor  men, 
thus  oppressed,  contributed  two  carlini  apiece 
for  a  memorial  to  the  King,  but  no  notice  was 
taken  of  it. 

Vesuvius  is  now  in  flames  and  smoke,  and 
seems  to  threaten  worse. 


3IO 


LETTERS     FROM    THE 


The  Queen,  on  taking  leave  of  us,  made  a 
present  to  Mrs.  S.  of  a  pair  of  diamond  brace- 
lets, with  her  picture  and  ciphers,  and  two  fine 
medals. 


Rome,  June  1st. 

On  leaving  Naples  we  slept  the  first  night  at 
Terracina,  and  the  second  at  Velletri,  at  the 
Palazzo  Lancelotto.  We  travelled  twenty  miles 
on  the  Appian  Way,  which  has  been  lately  re- 
paired ;  it  was  a  glorious  sight.  The  canal  is 
fine.  They  have  lowered  the  road,  although 
Trajan  had  raised  it,  out  of  economy  ;  but  I  fear 
it  will  afford  the  water  greater  ease  in  overflowing 
it  again. 

There  is  to  be  a  town  built  at  Mesa.  The 
Forum  Appii  is  a  large  building  of  white  marble. 
We  dined  at  Sermonata,  and  came  on  next  day 
through  New  Albano,  round  by  Gensano  and  the 
vale  of  La  Riccia,  to  Rome. 

I  have  had  an  audience  of  Pius  VI.  in  the 
Vatican.  He  received  me  very  graciously,  and 
conversed  familiarly  on  political  subjects  for 
about  half-an-hour,  during  which  time  he  sat  at 
a  table,  and  I  stood  by  it.     We  talked  Italian. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  311 

Florence,  June  2yth, 

We  left  Rome  on  the  20th,  with  vetttmni  ; 
hired  horses  and  mules,  and  put  the  heavy  bag- 
gage in  a  cart.  The  appearance  of  the  Campagna 
di  Roma  is  very  desolate;  scarcely  a  house  to  be 
seen;  a  few  ruined  towers,  scattered  trees,  and  a 
feeble  cultivation  of  arable  land,  left  to  itself  to 
weed  and  ripen.  If  it  wore  well  peopled,  the  air 
would  lose  its  pestilential  quality,  and  this  would 
be  a  pretty  country,  though  I  imagine  it  would 
always  suffer  from  want  of  water. 

We  dined  at  I'Osteria  di  Bacano,  a  single 
house  in  the  middle  of  a  large  volcanic  crater, 
quite  round  and  free  from  water,  except  what  is 
wasted  from  a  fine  fountain,  or  trough,  from  the 
houses  at  Ronciglione,  a  large  town  on  a  high 
hill,  in  a  pretty  vineyard  country.  A  strong  sul- 
phurous smell  exhaled  from  a  small  lake,  or  pond, 
with  fine  poplar  groves  on  its  edge. 

We  went  down  the  chain  that  forms  the  crust 
or  wall  of  the  crater  of  the  Lake  of  Vico,  into 
one  of  the  most  delightful  scenes  in  the  world, 
skirting  the  edge  of  a  fine,  large,  irregular  lake, 
the  waters  of  which  are  smooth  as  glass.  Moderate 
eminences,  with  many  pleasing  variations  of 
height,   covered   with   woods   of  aged   oaks,   beech 


312  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

and  chesnut,  encircle  the  lake.  Between  them 
and  the  water  is  a  stretch  of  wide  meadow  land, 
full  of  cows  and  horses  grazing.  A  large  cone 
rises  up  on  one  side  of  the  water,  and  throws  it 
back  in  a  picturesque  manner,  contributing  to 
a  beautiful  irregularity  of  shape  on  the  lake.  The 
woods  are  noble;  they  grow  thinner  as  they 
descend,  forming  clumps  and  groves.  Near  the 
water's  edge  are  scattered,  on  the  green  sward, 
some  fine  single  trees. 

We  climbed  up  the  opposite  mountain,  which 
is  woody,  steep,  and  long.  It  is  called  La  Mon- 
tagna  di  Viterbo,  and  in  ancient  days  was  Mons 
Ciminus.  Its  passage  was  the  cause  of  a  triumph 
to  Fabius. 

Many  of  the  trees  on  the  hills,  viz.,  oak, 
beech,  chesnut,  flowering  ash,  and  large  syca- 
mores, are  decaying  from  age. 

We  passed  through  Viterbo,  where  nothing  is 
remarkable.  It  stands  on  a  slope  at  the  foot  of 
the  high  mountain.  There  is  a  tiresome  ascent, 
through  noble  woods  and  rocks  of  tufa.  After 
crossing  a  large  plain,  we  came  to  the  hill  of 
Montefiascone,  a  large  village  on  the  top  of  the 
ridge  that  forms  the  bank  or  coast  of  the  vale  of 
the  lake  of  Bolsena,  entirely  of  tufa  and  lava  ; 
and    under    the    town    are    vaults     cut    in    them. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  313 

where  the  delicious  white  wine  of  the  same  name 
is  kept  as  fresh  as  in  snow. 

We  slept  at  a  solitary  house  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill  of  Montefiascone,  and  had  a  noble  view 
of  the  hill  of  Bolsena,  with  a  fine  tract  of  country 
behind  it.  The  two  islands  in  the  middle  of  the 
water  have  a  fine  effect  ;  so  also  have  the  rich 
vineyards  and  olive-yards  between  the  town  and 
the  lake. 

I  never  had  a  pleasanter  morning's  journey 
than  that  of  our  next  day,  amidst  noble  hanging 
woods,  down  to  the  lake  of  Bolsena,  through 
scenes  as  varied  as  they  are  enchanting.  The 
town  stands  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  picturesquely 
embosomed  in  the  rich  woods  that  clothe  the 
side  of  the  hill  behind. 

The  fine  expanse  of  water,  with  two  hand- 
some islands  and  beautiful  eminences,  with  woods 
and  towns  upon  them  on  every  side,  and  the 
smiling  appearance  of  the  lowlands  we  passed 
through,  are  the  faint  outhnes  of  this  handsome 
picture. 

You  will  laugh  at  my  enthusiastic  description 
of  a  country  which  all  the  world  has  (and  your- 
self, perhaps)  passed  through.  But  you  must 
recollect  what  Bacon  says,  that  "  the  eye  of  a 
painter  sees  more  than    other    eyes."     All    is   in- 


314  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

teresting  to  one  who  delights  in  taking  views 
from  Nature;  a  cloud,  a  wave,  is  an  object  of 
remark,  which  another  takes  no  notice  of. 

A  party  of  gentlemen  were  preparing  their 
repast  on  the  grass,  in  consequence  of  a  fishing 
expedition,  and  seemed  to  be  carousing  in  high 
glee.  We  turned  off  firom  the  lake  to  the  ruined 
town  of  St.  Lorenzo,  which  stands  on  a  small 
eminence  in  a  most  delightful  spot,  near  a  fine 
stream.  Unfortunately,  such  situations  in  this 
climate  are,  in  summer,  subject  to  the  influence 
of  a  most  noxious  air;  which  induced  Clement 
XIV.  to  remove  the  inhabitants  to  a  bare  hill 
above,  where  a  new  village  was  built  under  his 
auspices,  in  a  regular  form,  with  a  circular  place 
in  the  centre,  and  a  church. 

From  all  I  hear,  that  Pope  also  appears  to 
have  taken  great  pains  for  the  benefit  of  his 
territories,  and  that  so  public-spirited  a  sovereign 
should  have  had  enemies  is  surprising;  yet  there 
is  no  doubt  of  his  having  been  poisoned.  Abbé 
Grant  told  me  that  whilst  Ganganelli  was  saying 
mass  on  Holy  Thursday  before  his  death,  his 
maggiordomo  prepared  as  usual  his  chocolate  in 
a  small  antechamber.  Being  curious  to  know  how 
far  the  service  was  advanced,  he  stepped  to  a 
door  to  peep  into   the  church,  and   almost   imme- 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  315 

diately  turned  back  to  the  buffet;  but  as  he  re- 
turned, he  perceived  a  man  passing  like  lightning 
from  the  opposite  door.  The  Pope  then  came  in, 
and  directly  took  up  the  cup  of  chocolate,  of 
which  he  drank  half,  but  refused  the  remainder, 
as  he  said  it  had  a  bad  taste.  He  was  not  long 
without  being  attacked  by  a  mortal  disorder, 
which  was  of  such  a  virulent  and  putrid  character 
that  his  body  fell  to  pieces,  nor  could  his  head 
be  kept  on  his  shoulders  after  death.  A  nun  at 
Viterbo,  who  passed  for  a  prophetess,  had  an- 
nounced his  death,  and  letters  were  chalked  on 
the  walls  of  the  Vatican,  implying  that  he  would 
not  outlive  the  September  of  that  year. 

Pius  VI.  had  a  fright  like  this  about  two 
years  ago.  He  was  then  so  burnt  up  that  he 
could  not  bear  the  pressure  of  his  shirt,  which 
was  kept  from  his  body  by  hoops,  and  his  flesh 
almost  burnt  the  hands  of  his  attendants  when 
they  touched  it. 

We  passed  through  woods  of  ancient  oak  to 
Aquapendente,  an  ugly,  ruinous  place,  on  the 
brink  of  a  precipice,  without  any  appearance  of 
water,  but  with  very  beautiful  landscapes  ;  and 
descended  a  long,  woody  hill,  to  a  river  and  a 
good  bridge.  This  vale  is  full  of  charming  flowers. 
We   dined  at  a  single   house  at  the  foot   of    the 


3l6  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

mountain,  then  ascended  the  hill  of  Radicofani, 
along  a  steep  but  good  road.  We  got  to  the  top 
by  the  help  of  oxen. 

The  master  of  the  posthouse  would  not  receive 
us,  so  we  proceeded,  by  starlight,  six  miles  down 
the  northern  side,  to  Ricorsi,  a  lonely  barn — so 
bad  a  one  that  we  preferred  passing  the  night  in 
our  carriage.  We  had  a  little  before  crossed  a 
rivulet  of  white  sulphurous  water,  where  the  in- 
crustations of  white  travertino  are  made,  of  which 
models  are  taken  off  in  different  moulds.  The 
water  falls  from  on  high  upon  a  pavement,  where 
the  mould  is  set  sloping  to  face  it,  and  receives 
the  sprinklings,  which  in  a  very  short  time  form 
a  thick  crust  on  the  mould,  and  give  a  very  fine 
hard  basso-relievo  of  the  subject. 

Radicofani  is  a  fortress  and  village  on  the 
summit  of  an  extinct  volcano.  AU  near  it  seems 
to  be  confusion.  On  the  northern  side  is  a  large 
tract  covered  with  detached  rocks  of  lava.  It  is 
seen  a  vast  way  off  on  both  sides,  and  forms  the 
boundary  of  Tuscany  and  the  Papal  territories. 
The  country  is  fine  on  the  Roman  side,  but  the 
appearance  of  the  natives  improves  as  one  enters 
Tuscany.  There  are  more  houses  scattered  about, 
more  signs  of  industry  and  attempts  to  improve 
the  cultivation  ;  the  people  also  are  better  dressed. 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  317 

Gentlemen's  seats  appear  on  the  eminences,  and 
many  houses  have  a  general  look  of  comfort  and 
industry. 

We  dined  at  Buonconvento,  and  had  excellent 
wine  of  Montepulciano,  sweet  and  white,  like 
good  mild  cider.  We  then  proceeded  to  Sienna, 
which  stands  on  the  crown  of  a  lofty  eminence, 
and  is  very  conspicuous  from  all  sides. 

The  Augustines  is  a  handsome  modernised 
church,  with  large  paintings.  The  most  conspi- 
cuous are,  one  of  "St.  Anthony,"  by  Spagnoletti, 
and  a  fine  "  Christ  bearing  the  Cross,"  by  Salvator. 
The  church  has  pleasant  cloisters  and  a  good 
library.  The  grates  of  one  of  the  chapels  are  of 
bronze  work,  representing  knotted  ropes. 

The  Domo  is  Gothic,  of  white  and  black 
marble  ;  the  outside  front  is  loaded  with  statues, 
busts  and  paintings;  the  inside  is  ugly,  except 
the  pulpit,  which  is  of  white  marble,  worked 
elegantly,  in  the  style  of  the  cinque  centi.  The 
stairs  are  the  best  thing  there  ;  some  of  the  orna- 
ments are  charming. 

The  Chizi  chapel  is  brilliant  from  the  lapis- 
lazuli  of  the  altar,  and  from  the  verde  antico 
columns  and  rosso  antico  arms. 

Next  day  we  reached  Florence,  passing  Pog- 
gibonzi,  and    through   a    beautifully    hilly  country, 


3l8  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

superior  to  any  other  in  Italy.  We  lodge  at 
Veneni's,  where  we  found  many  of  our  acquaint- 
ance, and  also  a  general  invitation  from  Sir  Horace 
waiting  for  us. 


Verona,  June  2isU 

We  left  Florence  on  the  14th,  and  slept  at 
Pietra  Mala,  a  horrid  inn.  Dined  next  day  at 
Pianora,  and  thence  to  Bologna.  Saw  some  fine 
pictures  :  Domenichino's  "  Mart3n:dom  of  St. 
Agnes  " — ^the  agony  and  expression  very  fine  ; 
**  St.  Cecilia,*'  by  Raphael  ;  and,  at  the  Capuchins 
the  famous  "  Crucifixion,"  by  Guido. 

I  walked  three  miles  up  to  the  Madonna 
della  Guardia,  under  a  brick  portico,  built  by  sub- 
scription and  ex  votos.  There  is  nothing  remark- 
able about  the  church  but  the  view,  and  the 
image,  called  a  work  of  St.  Luke,  now  in  great 
vogue  during  all  the  earthquakes. 

We  arrived  on  the  19th  at  Modena,  and  saw 
the  palace,  where  there  are  grand  apartments 
allotted  to  stranger  Princes.  The  arsenal  is  full 
of  arms,  and  in  good  order.  The  great  albergo  is 
a  noble  building  and  establishment,  where  old  and 
young,  when  left  unprovided  for,  are  received, 
nourished,  and,  if  capable,  employed. 


COURTS     OP     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  31g 

We  went  to  see  a  collection  of  curious  medals 
belonging  to  a  Jew,  some  of  which  are  very  fine. 
He  assured  us  that  the  King  of  Naples  had 
offered  four  hundred  ounces  for  leave  to  select 
forty  pieces.  This  we  would  scarcely  give  credit 
to,  knowing  how  little  His  Neapolitan  Majesty 
cares  about  anything  beyond  macaroni.  The  Jew 
supported  his  fibs  by  laying  his  hand  upon  his 
heart,  and  saying:  "Je  vous  jure  sur  mon  âme, 
que  je  vous  dis  la  vérité."  "  I  suppose  he  is  a 
Sadducee,"  said  Mrs.   S.  to  me. 

Our  road  firom  Modena  lay  through  a  flat 
country,  the  most  richly  cultivated,  perhaps,  in  the 
world.  La  Mirandola  is  poorly  built,  and  has 
a  desolate  appearance  ;  the  grass  grows  in  its 
streets.  The  prebendaries  wear  a  crimson  riband 
round  their  necks.  The  castle  is  modern,  though 
ruinous. 

We  took  the  Verona  road,  through  a  wet, 
enclosed,  but  luxuriant  country,  with  farmhouses 
and  cottages  in  plenty,  but  no  villages.  With 
the  least  rain  there  would  have  been  no  chance 
of  getting  on.  As  it  was,  we  found  it  far  from 
pleasant. 

On  reaching  Rêvera,  a  village  on  the  Po,  we 
crossed  in  a  strong,  roomy  ferry-boat,  and  slept 
at   Ostiglia,  on   the   north  side  of  the   river.     The 


320  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

next  day  we  were  obliged  to  have  three  pair  of 
oxen  to  travel  across  the  low  country,  which  is 
intersected  in  so  many  directions,  that  the  num- 
bers of  steep,  narrow  brick  enclosures  can  scarcely 
be  counted.  Horses  could  hardly  have  tugged  up 
the  carriages. 

We  entered  the  Venetian  territory  at  Ponte 
Molino,  a  ruinous-looking  castle,  which  we  passed 
through.  The  doganista  (custom-house  officers) 
let  us  proceed  very  quietly.  There  are  rice- 
grounds  on  the  flat.  We  dined  at  Isola.  Plenty 
of  mulberry  trees  and  Indian  corn. 

Verona  seemed  of  an  immense  size  as  we 
approached  it.  We  passed  through  a  vast  length 
of  town. 

Next  day  I  walked  out  of  the  east  gate,  and 
back  down  to  the  riverside,  where  I  took  a  sketch 
of  the  bridge  —  one  of  the  finest  possible,  not 
unlike  that  over  the  Saone  at  Lyons,  but  hand- 
somer. The  castle  and  walls  are  fine  objects 
over  the  bridge.  There  is  also  an  exquisite 
prospect   fi-om   the   castle   San   Felice. 

We  went  to  San  Georgio,  a  convent  of  nuns, 
built  by  San  Michèle,  a  Veronese  architect,  about 
the  time  of  Palladio,  whose  style  his  resembles, 
and  he  has  imitated  it  in  many  houses  of  the 
town.       The     church     has     a     lightsome,     elegant 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  32I 

cupola,  but,  owing  to  the  shake  of  an  earthquake, 
it  has  been  necessary  to  support  it  by  cross-bars, 
which  have  a  bad  effect. 

An  antique  tomb,  serving  for  a  gate  near 
the  old  castle,  has  the  name  of  Vitruvius  on  it;* 
and  as  that  great  architect  was  of  this  city,  it  is 
supposed  to  be  his,  but  I  think  it  a  modern 
inscription.  In  the  church  of  the  Franciscans 
the  chapel  of  the  family  Pellegrini,  by  Michèle, 
in  gray  marble,  is  reckoned  by  Dutens  the  ne  plus 
ultra  of  architecture.  I  think  it  not  to  be  com- 
pared to  the  Corsini  chapel  in  St.  John  Lateran, 
at  Rome.  Near  this  chapel  is  a  gate  of  a  Gothic 
order,  not  opened,  and  called  porta  stoppa. 

The  museum  of  the  Philharmonic,  adjoining 
the  theatre,  is  handsome  enough.  There  is  an 
academy  for  poetry  and  music,  and  an  association 
of  nobility  for  exercise,  riding,  &c.  The  outer 
part  of  the  amphitheatre  is  all  destroyed  except 
four  arches,  but  the  circus  is  entire,  and  has 
lately  been  repaired  at  great  expense.  This 
society  has  great  revenues  in  houses,  &c.,  and 
a  body  of  gentlemen  to  direct  its  funds.  The 
building  contains  room  for  thirty-six  thousand 
people    sitting,    and    six    thousand    in    the    arena. 

I  M.  Vitruvius  Pollio,  according  to  the  best  authorities, 
was  born  at  Formiae.     He  lived  in  the  time  of  Augustus. 
VOL.  I  21 


322 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


They   are   now  busy   taking  away  the    earth,   and 
reducing  it   to  the   ancient   level. 


Clagenfurthf  July  ist. 

We    came    from     Verona    along    the    Adige, 
through    a    level    plain    of   vines,   trees,   corn,   &c. 
Dined   at  Dolci,  and  slept  at   Borghetto,  the  first 
place  in  the  Trentin.     Our  trunks  were  superficially 
examined    and    sealed.      We    slept    next    night    at 
Alia.      La  Chiusa   is   a  very  narrow  pass  between 
rocks,    on   the    river,   which    is    of  a    bad    muddy 
colour,  but    rapid    and   full.      Roveredo    is    an   ex- 
tensive   town,   with    pretty    environs.      Trent   is   a 
large  ugly  city.     The   palace   is   half  Gothic.     We 
entered  the  Tyrol  near  a  torrent,  two  miles   from 
thence.     We  had  payments  of  barriers  without  end. 
The    women    wear    gray    or    green    caps,    like 
the  crown  of  a  hat  without  brim,  or  green  round 
hats,  which  the  men  have  also,  or  black  fly  caps 
fastened   behind  with   a   bodkin   through   the   hair. 
The  men  wear  straps  over  each  shoulder,  of  green 
list,   like   porters'   straps,   to    keep   up    their    lower 
garments. 

We    dined    at    Salerno,   where    we    saw    some 
pleasant   rivers   and   pine  woods,  resembling  those 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  323 

of  Tarare,   the    vale   growing   narrower   and    more 
romantic  as  we   advanced. 

Botzen  is  a  large  town,  at  the  junction  of 
two  valleys  ;  a  pretty  country  surrounds  it.  We 
crossed  the  Adige,  which  is  here  a  rapid,  broad 
torrent;  the  mountains  then  closed  in  upon  us, 
and  there  was  scarcely  room  for  a  road  along  the 
water's  edge.  Noble  hanging  woods  and  perpen- 
dicular rocks,  with  patches  of  cultivation,  afford 
beautiful  prospects  hereabouts. 

We  dined  at  a  single  house  a  mile  beyond 
the  post  of  Deutschen,  an  old  mansion  belonging 
to  a  priest — a  most  romantic  spot;  and  from 
thence  we  had  a  charming  drive  to  Kollmann,  a 
small  village  on  the  hill,  commanding  such  views 
as  can  but  seldom  be  matched.  A  fine  castle  on 
the  point  of  a  rock,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  is  a  grand  object;  and  the  rivers,  fields, 
hills,  and  woody  mountains  are  sublime.  Behind 
the  town  falls  a  beautiful  cascade  of  sheets  of 
water,  from  the  summit  of  a  mountain.  This 
place  reminded  me  of  Bagnères. 

We  travelled  next  day  through  a  most  beauti- 
ful country  to  Brixen,  a  large  town  on  the  river, 
in  a  broad  plain,  with  several  valleys  ending  in 
it.  Here  the  Inspruck  road  falls  into  that  of 
Styria.     It    was   a    long  evening's   drive   to   Brun- 

21 — a 


324 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


ecken,  through  a  charming  country.  Here  we 
found  a  good  inn.  The  town  is  of  moderate  size, 
with  a  castle  prettily  placed  on  the  hill,  and  has 
some  great  works  for  iron  manufacture. 

We  ascended  the  course  of  the  Adige,  through 
a  delicious  valley  closed  in  by  laurels  and  spruce 
firs.  The  forests  are  the  most  extensive  that  I 
ever  passed  through,  with  numberless  trees,  but 
no  large-sized  timber.  Between  Niederdorf  and 
Sillian,  we  came  to  the  highest  lands  in  the 
valley.  The  Adige,  which  is  here  only  a  torrent, 
descends  by  a  narrow  gully  of  dark  woods  from 
the  bare  white  rocks,  which  rise  loftily  behind  the 
woody  mountains,  which  are  still  full  of  snow. 
These  are  the  boundaries  of  Italy,  and  are  called 
Staur. 

We  slept  at  a  single  house  called  Mitterwald, 
in  a  dark  glen,  close  by  the  river  Drau.  We 
dined  at  Ober  Drauburg,  a  village  belonging  to 
Prince  Portia,  and  thence  came  to  Greiffenberg, 
a  clean  village,  with  good  accommodations.  We 
entered  Carinthia,  near  Lienz,  and  after  a  few 
miles  of  narrow  passes  came  to  a  very  beautiful 
plain,  and  dined  at  Spital,  a  large  seat  of  Prince 
Portia,  who  resides  there  constantly,  being  a 
sort  of  sovereign  Prince  under  the  Emperor. 

The  saint  of  the  Tyrol  is  St.  Florianus,  repre- 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  325 

sented  by  a  soldier,  with  a  flag,  pouring  a  bucket 
of  water  on  a  house  on  fire. 

We  now  passed  a  charming  tract  of  country. 
The  river  flows  through  the  midst  of  a  large  plain 
of  flax  and  meadow  land,  with  many  villages  ;  and 
a  ridge  of  hills  running  between  it  and  the  high 
mountains  is  covered  with  magnificent  woods,  I 
saw  one  spruce  fir  of  thirteen  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence. 

At  St.  Paternion,  the  next  village  we  came  to, 
we  found  a  variation  in  the  dress  of  the  people, 
the  women  wearing  black  hats  with  bugle  bands, 
and  a  brass  or  studded  leathern  girdle,  ft-om 
which  hangs  a  knife.  Goitres  are  almost  uni- 
versal here,  and  there  are  many  idiots. 

We  passed  the  confines  of  the  Venetian  States, 
and  dined  at  Villach,  an  ill-built  town  on  the 
Drau,  in  a  beautiful  country.  Velden,  where  we 
slept,  is  a  neat  house,  on  the  borders  of  a  fine 
lake,  which  seems  to  be  many  miles  long.  Here 
stands  a  ruinous  pile  of  buildings,  formerly  the 
residence  of  some  great  chief.  It  belongs  to 
Count  de  Dietrichstein,  and  serves  as  a  post- 
house.  The  women  here  wear  men's  shirts,  with 
a  red  girdle  and  large  flat  hats. 

We  travelled  on  the  side  of  the  lake  called 
the    Wertsee,    the    borders    of   which     are     finely 


326 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


wooded  and  have  many  picturesque  buildings, 
especially  a  church  on  a  rocky  peninsula.  A 
canal  through  a  vast  plain  leads  to  Clagenfurth, 
the  capital  of  Carinthia,  vi^hich  is  a  well-built  city, 
with  large,  though  low,  houses.  The  streets  are 
straight  and  wide,  but  none  of  them  are  paved, 
except  the  main  one.  In  the  great  square,  Her- 
cules, like  a  buffoon,  is  grinning  and  wielding 
his  club  at  a  colossal  dragon  (the  arms  of  the 
city). 

The  fortifications  are  in  the  modern  style. 


Vienna,  July  loth. 

From  Clagenfurth  we  journeyed  to  St.  Veit, 
the  poor  suburb  of  a  small  town  in  a  flat  ;  after 
which,  we  passed  through  rich  vales,  with  woods 
on  each  side,  and  iron  mills,  in  a  romantic 
country  ;  and  then,  entering  Styria,  reached 
Neumarkt,  a  small  walled  town.  Thence  to 
Unzmarkt  were  the  finest  larches  in  the  world, 
in  great  quantities,  and  spruce  firs  of  large  size  and 
beauty.  I  will  not  reckon  among  the  pleasant 
objects  of  the  landscape  a  great  many  gibbets, 
with  men  hanging  on  them,  and  heads  exposed 
on   wheels,    ignobly   placed    near    the   road,    as    a 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  327 

terror  to  the  robbers,  which,  till  lately,  infested 
these  parts.  Marie  Thérèse's  emissaries  have  been 
indefatigable  in  putting  them  down. 

We  saw  an  innumerable  number  of  Martagon 
lilies  among  the  corn  and  flax-fields.  The  Mans, 
a  considerable  river,  flows  through  the  valley,  past 
Unzmarkt  to  Judenburg,  a  large  ugly  town,  in  a 
plain  surrounded  by  woody  hills.  The  drive  from 
the  pretty  hamlet  of  St.  Laurent,  along  the  banks 
of  the  Muhr,  was  beautiful.  It  wound  beneath 
the  hanging  fir  woods  to  Leoben. 

The  roads  in  Styria  are  much  cut  up,  and 
very  unpleasant.  Leoben  is  pretty  and  clean, 
though  built  in  a  barbarous  taste.  The  walls  of 
the  houses  are  decorated  with  armorial  bearings, 
figures  of  saints,  stories  out  of  sacred  history, 
and  various  ornaments  of  architecture.  The  town 
stands  on  the  river  Muhr,  which  is  the  prettiest 
stream  I  have  seen  since  I  entered  the  Tyrol. 

We  dined  at  Marzhofen,  a  populous  hamlet, 
and  slept  at  Krieglach.  Next  day  we  passed 
Marzzuschlag,  famous  for  its  iron  forges,  in  a  fine 
valley  overhung  with  mountains  and  pines.  We 
ascended  the  hills  which  divide  Styria  firom 
Austria.  It  is  a  noble  road,  with  a  grand  view 
towards  the  plain  of  Vienna.  Schottwien  is  a 
most  romantic  little  town,  amidst  a  defile  of  rocks 


328  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

and  woods,  beautifully  thrown  upon  each  other, 
with  fine  streams  running  down  on  each  side, 
and  a  hundred  charming  points  of  view.  The 
castle  of  the  seigneur  (the  Count  de  Reicheg)  is 
on  the  summit  of  one  of  the  highest  hills. 

We  had  a  fine  entrance  into  the  plains  of 
Neustadt,  a  large  walled  town,  which  stands  in 
the  plain  near  a  river.  A  dusty,  dreary  level  took 
us  to  Neunkirchen,  between  which  and  Neustadt 
is  a  long  village  of  several  houses  and  a  church, 
lately  built  on  each  side  of  the  road,  with  paled-off 
gardens,  enclosures,  vineyards,  and  walks.  This 
new  settlement  is  called  Teresia.  The  women 
here  wear  handkerchiefs  about  their  necks  and 
faces — a  frightful  costume. 

We  had  a  good  view  of  Vienna  from  the  hill  ; 
it  resembles  the  situation  and  country  about  Paris. 
The  architecture  also  resembles  that  of  the  French 
capital  in  the  best  sort  of  houses.  We  passed 
along  a  dusty  suburb  round  the  town,  which  is 
as  ugly  as  anything  can  be,  to  the  custom-house, 
where  we  underwent  a  severe  examination,  and 
paid  thirteen  florins,  duties  for  mere  trifles  ;  we 
then  established  ourselves  in  tolerable  lodgings  at 
the  Glanderfirchen  Haus  in  the  Ober  Bresmer 
Strass.  I  called,  soon  after  my  arrival,  upon 
Sir  Robert  Keith,  who  came  directly  to  see  Mrs.  S. 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  329 

He   had  just   received   accounts   from    England   of 
the  dreadful  riots  in  London. 


Vienna,  July  24th, 

The  evening  after  our  arrival,  we  went  to  the 
German  play  with  Sir  Robert  Keith  and  the 
Countess  de  Thun.  The  theatre  is  of  medium  size 
and  well  lighted  up,  but  the  boxes  are  extremely 
small  ;  yet  the  price  of  one  of  them  is  ^fioo  a 
year.  The  greatest  part  of  the  pit  is  taken  up  for 
the  parterre  noble,  where  ladies  and  gentlemen  go 
as  to  the  boxes. 

Sir  Robert  took  us  to  Prince  Kaunitz*s  after 
the  theatre,  where  a  numerous  party  of  ladies, 
ministers,  &c.,  were  assembled.^  There  were  cards 
and  billiards. 

Next   morning  we  walked  in  the   Lausgarten 


I  Prince  Kaunitz  Rietberg,  the  celebrated  minister  of 
Marie  Thérèse,  was  bom  in  1710,  and  destined  for  the 
Church;  but  having  come  into  possession  of  the  family 
estates  by  the  death  of  his  elder  brother,  he  embraced  the 
diplomatic  career,  was  appointed  ambassador  to  Louis  XV., 
and  succeeded  in  forming  the  famous  league  between 
Austria  and  France  against  Prussia.  This  gained  him  so 
much  credit,  that  he  was  appointed  prime  minister,  and 
continued  to  enjoy  the  favour  of  the  Crown  until  his 
death,  which  occurred  in  1798. 


330  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

with  Countess  de  Thun,^  who  is  a  charming 
woman,  all  attention  and  kindness  to  us.  She 
has  three  daughters,  all  handsome  ;  but  Elizabeth, 
the  eldest,  is  quite  a  beauty.  We  went  with  her 
to  the  widowed  Princess  Esterhazy,  and  then  to 
Prince  Kaunitz,  who  has  a  reunion  every  night. 

The  Hoffgarten  is  a  very  fine  public  garden, 
in  an  island  of  the  Danube,  with  charming  shady 
walks,  and  a  great  variety  of  views  over  the  city, 
suburbs  and  hills.  The  Danube,  which  flows 
majestically  through  the  lofty  woods  and  level 
fields,  is  traversed  by  two  wooden  bridges. 

We  paid  several  visits  during  the  next  evening, 
and,  on  the  13th,  breakfasted  with  Prince  Galitzin 
at  his  casino  in  the  Prater,  a  pretty  box,  in  a 
large  grove  of  old  trees,  with  a  little  garden,  like 
a  citizen's  world  in  an  acre  of  ground.  We  were 
regaled  with  a  most  splendid  breakfast,  and  met 
a  great  deal  of  good  company.  Most  of  the  ladies 
came  on  horseback,  riding  à  l'anglaise.  We  went 
afterwards,  in  Sir  Robert  Keith's  carriage,  to  dine 
with  Prince  Kaunitz  at  Laxenburg,  two  leagues 
distant  from  Vienna.  There  are  avenues  of  horse- 
chesnut  and    lime-trees   all   the  way,    in   an   open, 


I  The  Countess  de  Thun,  daughter  to  Prince  Kaunitz. 
Her  daughter  afterwards  married  Count  Razamowski,  fa- 
vourite to  the  Czarina  Elizabeth. 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  33 1 

even  country.  Laxenburg  is  a  small  town  in  the 
hollow  part  of  the  great  plain.  There  is  an  old 
château,  newly  patched  up,  and  a  strange,  low 
palace,  the  residence  of  the  Imperial  family.  The 
generality  of  the  nobility  have  their  houses  here  ; 
but  that  of  Prince  Kaunitz  is  the  only  grand  one, 
and  he  has  laid  out  a  great  deal  of  money  upon 
it.  There  is  one  noble  room  ;  the  rest  are  low 
and  small  for  a  person  of  such  consequence. 

At  dinner  we  had  the  Count  de  Burghausen, 
the  Countess  da  Thun,  the  Countess  de  Clary,  a 
young  widow,  the  favourite  of  Kaunitz,  and  Baron 
Swieten,  son  of  the  famous  physician,  Mr.  Beaky. 
After  dinner  the  Prince  treated  us  with  the  clean- 
ing of  his  gums — one  of  the  most  nauseous  opera- 
tions I  ever  witnessed,  and  it  lasted  a  prodigious 
long  time,  accompanied  with  all  manner  of  noises. 
He  carries  a  hundred  implements  in  his  pocket 
for  this  purpose — such  as  glasses  of  all  sorts  for 
seeing  before  and  behind  his  teeth,  a  whetting 
steel  for  his  knife,  pincers  to  hold  the  steel  with, 
knives  and  scissors  without  number,  and  cottons 
and  lawns  for  wiping  his  eyes.  His  whims  are 
innumerable.  Nothing  allusive  to  the  mortality 
of  human  nature  must  ever  be  rung  in  his  ears. 
To  mention  the  small-pox  is  enough  to  knock  him 
up   for   the   day.     I   saw  an   instance   of  this  ;    for 


332 


LETTERS    FROM    THE 


Burghausen,  having  been  long  absent,  came  out 
with  it,  and  the  Prince  looked  as  black  as  could 
be  all  the  rest  of  the  day.  To  derange  the  train 
of  his  ideas  puts  him  sadly  out  of  sorts.  The 
other  day,  he  sent  a  favourite  dish  of  meat  as  a 
present  to  an  aunt  of  his,  four  years  after  her 
decease,  and  would  not  have  known  it  but  for 
a  blundering  servant,  who  blabbed  it  to  him. 

He  is  full  of  childish  vanities,  and  wishes  to 
be  thought  to  excel  in  everything.  He  used  to 
have  a  spiral  glass  for  mixing  the  oil  and  vinegar 
for  salads,  which  he  shook  every  day  with  great 
parade  and  affectation.  At  last  the  bottle  broke 
in  his  hands,  and  covered  him  and  his  two  neigh- 
bouring ladies  with  its  contents.  A  gentleman 
not  opening  a  bottle  of  champagne  to  his  mind, 
he  called  for  one  to  give  the  company  a  lesson 
in  uncorking  and  frothing  the  liquor  :  unluckily, 
he  missed  the  calculation  of  his  parabola,  and 
poured  out  the  wine  into  his  uplifted  sleeve,  as 
well  as  into  his  waistcoat,  &c.  By-the-bye,  he  is 
dressed  very  oddly  ;  his  wig  comes  down  upon 
his  nose,  with  a  couple  of  small  straggling  curls 
on  each  side,  placed  in  a  very  ridiculous  manner. 
He  is  extremely  fond  of  adulation,  will  swallow 
anything  in  its  shape,  and,  indeed,  lays  it  upon 
himself  with    a    very    liberal    hand.      One    of    his 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  333 

peculiarities  is  a  detestation  of  musk.  He  is  a 
sovereign  Count  of  Rietberg,  in  right  of  his 
mother,  which  brings  him  in  about  ^^3,000  a 
year.  His  paternal  fortune  is  3^4,000.  He  has 
enormous  debts,  but  gets  ^f  10,000  a  year  from 
the  Empress,  and  is  never  stinted  by  her.  His 
expenditure  in  fancies  and  trifles  is  incredible. 
He  studied  at  Leipsic  with  great  reputation,  and 
is  an  excellent  Latin  scholar,  but  no  Grecian  ; 
he  understands  English,  French  and  Italian  very 
perfectly,  and  reads  a  great  deal,  or  rather  a  great 
deal  is  read  to  him.  He  has  good  taste,  and  has 
raised  the  arts  from  barbarism  to  great  perfection 
at  Vienna.  In  business  he  is  intelligent,  and  far 
above  any  mean  subterfuges  or  falsehoods.  He 
is  always  silent  when  he  does  not  choose  to  ex- 
press his  real  sentiments.^  It  was  he  who  made 
the  alliance  with  France,  but  he  has  long  since 
been  convinced  of  his  error,  and  would  willingly 
retrieve  it  ;  but  the  times  are  not  proper  for  a 
change. 

I  "  Tongues,"  said  Prince  Talleyrand,  '*  are  given  to 
men,  in  order  that  they  may  disguise  their  real  sentiments;" 
a  maxim  that  he  pilfered  from  Euripides,  who  says  that 
each  person  has  two  tongues — one  to  tell  the  truth,  and 
the  other  to  use  according  as  occasion  may  require.  Erasmus 
employs  the  same  axiom  in  his  "  Eulogium  on  Folly."  Prince 
Kaunitz's  system  was  the  most  moral,  for  he  preferred  silence 
to  telling  untruths. 


334 


LETTERS     FROM    THE 


Having  never  lived  much  in  the  world  before 
his  present  elevation,  Prince  Kaunitz  has  neither 
bosom  friends  nor  bitter  enemies;  he  is  cold  and 
insensible  ;  has  made  no  man's  fortune,  nor  ruined 
anyone.  * 

His  wife  was  a  Messalina,  and  after  her  death 
he  took  to  actresses,  whose  dupe  he  was,  to  his 
cost.  He  has  no  affection  for  his  children.  The 
two  eldest  sons  are  bornés,  but  gentle,  worthy 
creatures  ;  the  third  and  fourth  absolute  non- 
entities ;    the  fifth   a   sad   roué. 

Kaunitz  rides  very  well,  and  is  fond  of  show- 
ing off.  The  Empress  ordered  his  picture  to  be 
taken,  and  gave  the  inscription  to  be  placed  under 
it,  denoting  him  to  have  been  for  three  years  her 
minister,  her  friend  and  her  confidant.  The  Em- 
peror once  entertained  a  great  aversion  for  him, 
and  a  few  years  ago  Kaunitz,  who  fancies  he  can 
do  everything,  drew  up  the  plan  of  a  campaign  so 
supremely  ridiculous  that  the  Emperor  was  con- 
vinced he  had  nothing  more  than  the  pretensions 

I  Helvetius  ("  de  l'Esprit,"  vol.  i.)  says  :  "  If  a  minister 
were  deaf  to  the  solicitation  of  relatives  and  friends,  and 
only  raised  men  of  pre-eminent  merit  to  the  first  places,  this 
just  minister  would  pass  in  the  world  as  useless,  heartless, 
and,  perhaps,  dishonest.  To  the  shame  of  the  age  be  it 
said,"  he  adds,  "  men  high  in  office  rarely  ever  owe  their 
reputation  of  being  good  friends,  relations,  benevolent  and 
virtuous,  except  to  acts  of  nepotism  and  injustice." 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  335 

and  arts  of  a  State  quack.  Of  late,  however, 
il  en  est  revenu  sur  son  compte,  and  is  now  convinced 
of  his  abilities,  and  is  very  intimate  with  him. 

After  dinner  we  walked  in  the  gardens  and 
woods,  through  canopies  of  fine  old  oaks  and 
pretty  woodland  paths — pleasant  enough  were  it 
not  for  the  gnats,  which  quite  devoured  me.  La 
petite  veuve,  the  Countess  de  Clary,  lives  by  play, 
does  the  honours  of  the  house,  and  has  likewise 
her  affectations.  She  was  married  at  fifteen  to 
Count  Clary,  of  seventy-five,  and  soon  became  a 
widow.  She  seems  good-natured,  and  understands 
English  perfectly  —  which,  indeed,  most  of  the 
German  ladies   do. 

There  is  a  heronry  here,  and  much  hawking. 
We  heard  two  French  horns  in  the  woods.  They 
almost  make  that  instrument  too  fine,  and  un- 
naturally learned. 

The  Emperor  is  allowed  no  power.  He  wishes 
exceedingly  to  go  to  Flanders,  having  much  at 
heart  a  new  system  for  restoring  that  country  to 
its  ancient  state  of  a  great  mart.  But  Prince 
Charles  of  Lorraine  is  such  a  favourite  with  the 
Empress  that  he  is  never  to  be  contradicted,  and 
the  Emperor  does  not  go  for  fear  of  quarrelling 
with  him,  which  would  inevitably  be  the  case, 
their  ideas  on  the  subject  not  agreeing. 


336  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

The  Prater  is  a  superb  park,  with  a  long 
avenue  of  horse  -  chesnuts.  The  banks  of  the 
Danube  are  long  and  woody.  Many  hinds  and 
stags  graze  on  both  sides,  and  there  is  fine  scope 
for  riding  and  driving. 

In  the  Graben  is  a  house  so  long,  and  divided 
into  so  many  apartments,  that  it  lets  for  thirty- 
six  thousand  florins  a  year.  Near  it  is  the  stump 
of  an  aged  tree,  leaning  against  the  wall,  into 
which  everyone  who  is  made  free  of  the  Black- 
smith's Company  is  obliged  to  drive  a  nail  up 
to  the  head.  The  number  of  nails  already  sticking 
in  it  renders  it  difficult  now  to  find  a  spare  place. 
There  is  no  populace  in  Vienna,  everybody  be- 
longing to  some  company  or  association. 

We  had  a  great  dinner  at  Sir  Robert  Keith's. 
The  principal  persons  present  were  Mr.  and 
Madame  Thun  and  their  daughters,  Mr.  and 
Madame  de  Walthen,  the  Lucchese  and  Hano- 
verian envoys,  Starsa  and  Swieten,  with  Fludyer, 
Stratton  and  Madame  de  Bassovirtz,  I  afterwards 
accompanied  Baron  de  Swieten  on  a  visit  to  the 
old  Prince  of  Saxe  Hildburghausen,  who,  at  eighty 
years  old,  can  raise  a  weight  of  three  hundred 
pounds.  He  always  retires  to  his  rest  at  eight 
o'clock,  and  as  he  walks  firom  the  salon  to  his 
bed-chamber,  has  men  posted,  who  pull  off  his  wig 


COURTS    OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  337 

and  clothes,  so  that  he  is  ready  for  his  bed 
by  the  time  he  gets  to  the  door  of  his  bed- 
chamber. Thus  scarcely  two  minutes  sufBce  for 
his  toilette.  We  have  since  dined  with  him  at 
the  Belvedere  Gardens,  and  went  afterwards  to 
Schonbrun  to  wait  upon  the  grande  maîtresse  of 
the  Empress  and  of  the  Archduchesses  Elizabeth 
and  Marianne. 

Schonbrunn  Palace  is  of  an  immense  length, 
and  of  unequal  heights,  but  with  nothing  pleasing 
or  really  grand  in  its  architecture.  It  was  built 
at  many  different  periods;  that  is,  whenever  the 
Empress  had  occasion  for  an  increase  of  apart- 
ments. At  first  it  was  nothing  but  a  rendezvous 
de  chasse  of  Charles  VI,  It  was  the  only  place 
the  Empress  had  to  live  in  when  first  she  came 
to  the  throne,  being  then  immersed  in  a  long 
and  dangerous  war;  and  when  peace  was  signed, 
and  all  became  quiet,  she  had  become  too  much 
attached  to  the  place  to  leave  it.  Its  situation 
is  far  from  agreeable,  being  close  to  the  little 
river  Wien,  without  any  pleasant  object  in  sight. 
The  gardens  are  fine  in  their  way.  Opposite  the 
palace  is  a  hill,  with  a  long  portico-kind  of 
building  upon  it,  as  ugly  as  possible.  It  is 
Prince  Kaunitz's  masterpiece  and  what  he  par- 
ticularly   prides     himself    upon.       Fifty     thousand 

VOL.  I  22 


338  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

pounds,  at  least,   have  been  spent   in   altering  and 
modelling  this  hill. 

The  Empress  has  such  an  internal  fever  and 
heat  of  blood  that  she  cannot  bear  to  have  the 
windows  closed  at  any  season  of  the  year.  Some- 
times the  wind  is  so  strong  during  the  night  that 
it  throws  down  the  chairs  in  her  room,  blows 
the  curtains  against  her  face  and  awakens  her. 
Her  son,  the  Emperor,  is  extremely  chilly,  not- 
withstanding all  her  children  were  brought  up  in 
so  hardy  a  manner  that  their  attendants  were 
almost  starved.  The  Emperor  still  sleeps  upon  a 
a  bed  of  skins. 

The  Empress  is  generous,  even  to  prodigality, 
and  would  be  miserable  if  she  knew  of  anyone 
in  want  that  it  was  not  in  her  power  to  relieve. 
The  Duke  of  Saxony  and  his  wife,  the  Arch- 
duchess Christina,  drain  her  prodigiously.  The 
Emperor  calls  him  his  dear  brother-in-law. 

Kaunitz  used  always  to  shut  the  windows 
when  he  came  into  the  Empress's  apartments,  but 
now  he  will  not  come  to  council  any  more. 

We  have  innumerable  visits  and  evening 
parties  and  find  the  society  very  agreeable.  Our 
presentation  to  the  Empress  has  taken  place. 
The  two  Archduchesses  and  the  Archduke  Maxi- 
milian  were   with   her.      She   received    us    in    her 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  339 

salle  d'audience,  was  very  gracious,  and  conversed 
about  our  family  and  that  of  the  Queen  of  Naples. 
She  stood  all  the  time  fanning  herself,  then  nous 
congédia  with  a  polite  bow. 

The  Archduchess  Marianne  is  pleasing,  and 
like  a  woman  of  the  world.  The  Archduchess 
Elizabeth  was  beautiful  before  she  had  the  small- 
pox, but  is  now  plain.  She  complains  of  never 
seeing  anyone,  except  in  her  sister's  company, 
who,  as  the  eldest,  engrosses  the  conversation. 
She  is  naturally  lively  and  very  volatile,  and 
suffers  sadly  from  ennui.  A  short  time  ago  an 
ulcer  came  in  her  cheek,  which  ate  it  quite 
through  and  confined  her  many  weeks  to  her 
room.  On  Sir  Robert  Keith  coming  to  condole 
with  her  on  this  accident,  she  burst  out  laughing, 
and  told  him  he  was  wrong  to  think  it  a  subject 
of  condolence.  **  Croyez-moi,**  said  she,  "pour 
une  Archiduchesse  de  quarante  ans,  qui  n'est  point 
mariée,  un  trou  à  la  joue  est  un  amusement  ; 
for,"  added  she,  "  no  event  which  breaks  through 
the  sameness  and  tediousness  of  my  life  ought 
to  be  considered  as  a  misfortune."  She  told  him 
it  was  a  blot  on  the  reign  of  Marie  Thérèse 
to  have  kept  her  old  daughters  under  restraint 
like  children  and  denied  them  the  pleasure  of 
mixing  in  society. 

22 — 2 


340 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


Maximilian  is  a  good-natured,  neither-here- 
nor-there  kind  of  youth. 

Prince  Auersberg  is  a  surprising  man  of 
eighty-six,  who  rides,  eats,  drinks  and  walks,  as 
if  he  were  but  thirty.  He  was  in  England  the 
year  Queen  Anne  died. 

The  ramparts  are  the  general  place  of  meeting 
in  the  evening.  Their  circumference  is  about 
three  miles. 

The  soil  which  produces  the  fine  Tokay  has 
so  much  heat,  that  Count  Collar,  the  Hungarian 
vice-chancellor,  tells  me  he  went  that  way  last 
December,  through  ice  and  snow,  and  found 
none  upon  that  spot.  No  snow  ever  lies  on  the 
salt-mines  either.  He  also  assured  me  that  the 
Tokay  sometimes  shoots  forth  bits  of  gold,  which 
has  been  sucked  up  in  the  growth  of  the  vine. 

The  Calvinist  reform  is  tolerated  in  Hungary, 
but  not  the  Lutheran.  There  is  no  punishment  of 
death  in  Bohemia.  The  Court  wish  to  make  a 
reform  there,  by  abolishing  the  covvêe — viz.,  the 
obligation  of  working  for  the  lords — and  giving 
leases  to  the  peasants;  but  it  has  not  yet  been 
able  to  accomplish  its  desire. 

In  Poland  the  nobility  contract  their  marriages 
in  such  a  manner  as  always  to  leave  a  doubt  and 
a    way    of  proving  their   nullity,   which   gives   rise 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  34I 

to  numberless  divorces;  and  it  sometimes  happens 
that  a  woman  sits  at  a  table  with  three  men  who 
have  been  her  husbands,  without  her  character 
being  at  all  infringed  upon  in  consequence.  How 
the  nuncios  make  out  the  legality  ot  these  dispen- 
sations I  know  not. 


August  4th, 

The  other  day  I  accompanied  Mrs.  S.  to 
Schonbrunn,  where  we  walked  in  the  gardens. 
The  temple,  or  portico,  of  Doric  arches,  is  a 
strange  concern.  There  was  a  sale  going  on  in 
the  middle  of  it.  The  Empress  sent  for  us  to  go 
to  her.  She  was  sitting  in  a  corner  of  the  palace, 
at  a  table,  parfilant.  She  spoke  very  pleasingly 
and  good-humouredly,  and  after  some  time  made 
a  sign  to  Mrs.  S.  to  sit  down,  then  asked  her 
many  questions,  and  at  last  told  her  the  Arch- 
duchess Marianne  wished  to  see  her.  Taking 
this  as  a  congés  we  waited  upon  the  Archduchess 
and  were  delighted  with  her.  She  seems  very 
amiable,  showed  us  great  kindness,  and  appears 
to  have  taken  a  great  fancy  to  Mrs.  S. 

The  Empress  has  a  fine  face,  but  is  enor- 
mously fat  and  unwieldy.  A  few  days  ago  her 
chamberlain,  Sinzendorff,  waited  on  her  with  a 
petition   from   some  part  of  her  territories,  which 


342  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

was  very  interesting  to  her.  They  were  alone  in 
the  apartment,  both  standing  whilst  he  read  to 
her  the  document.  Sinzendorff  is  a  thin  old  man, 
stiff  and  erect,  and  troubled  with  a  rheumatic 
complaint,  which  has,  in  some  measure,  paralysed 
his  frame.  It  happened  that  the  paper  fell  to  the 
ground.  The  Empress  bade  him  pick  it  up. 
**  Hélas  !  madame,"  said  he,  "il  y  a  vingt  années 
que  je  ne  me  suis  courbé  !  "  She  would  have 
stooped  for  it  herself,  but  was  too  unwieldy;  he 
was  accordingly  obliged  to  ring  the  bell  for  the 
purpose,  and  the  groom  of  the  chambers,  on 
entering,  found  Her  Imperial  Majesty  in  a  violent 
fit  of  laughter.^ 

Viennay  August  i^th. 

On  the  afternoon  of  Thursday  we  went  to  the 
Empress's  drawing-room  at  Schonbrunn,  held  upon 
the  occasion  of  the  Archduke  Maximilian  being 
elected  coadjutor  and  successor  to  the  Elector  of 
Cologne.  There  was  an  immense  crowd,  consider- 
ing the  time  of  the  year,  when  many  of  the  nobility 

I  A  similar  anecdote  is  related   of  George   IV.    (when 

Regent)   and   Lady   H d,   with  this  difference,   that  the 

latter  is  said  to  have  dropped  her  handkercliief,  when  she 
had  a  bad  cold.  Neither  being  dressed  for  stooping,  and 
her  ladyship's  nose  requiring  assistance,  the  bell  was  obliged 
to  be  rung,  and  a  fresh  handkerchief  asked  for. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  343 

are  absent  on  their  estates.  The  Empress  and  the 
ambassadors  played  at  cards,  but  the  former  rose 
often  from  her  seat  to  address  and  coax  the 
French  ambassador  (Breteuil),  whom  she  took 
extraordinary  notice  of,  indeed,  rather  fulsomely, 
probably  on  account  of  France  having  suffered 
the  coadjutorship  to  pass  uncontested.  She  also 
spoke  long  and  kindly  to  Mrs.  S.,  who  certainly 
had  no  hand  in  the  election. 

We  were  there  presented  to  the  Duke  Albert 
and  the  Archduchess  Christina.  She  is  very 
handsome  and  has  the  most  beautiful  hand  in 
the  world  ;  indeed,  that  is  a  characteristic  of  her 
family.  The  divine  Metastasio  was  also  present. 
He  is  a  little,  old,  sheepish-looking,  peaked-faced 
abbate,  with  a  curled  wig,  just  like  those  worn 
fifty  years  ago.  His  name  was  originally  Raspi, 
or  rather,  I  believe,  Trapassi. 

There  was  also  Marshal  Laudohn,^  a  thin 
man,   with   a  very    withered    face  ;    Marshal    Had- 


I  The  celebrated  Marshal  Laudohn,  who  commanded 
the  Imperial  armies  during  a  portion  of  the  Seven  Years' 
War.  It  was  to  him  that  Frederick  the  Great  paid  the 
compliment  of  saying:  ♦«  Placez-vous  à  côté  de  moi;  je 
n'aime  pas  vous  avoir  en  face."  Laudohn's  name  inspired 
so  much  terror  in  Germany,  that  it  was  long  used  to 
frighten  the  naughty  children.  "  Nimm  dich  in  acht  I  Der 
Laudohn  ist  da  1  "  was  a  constant  exclamation,  just  as  our 
nurses  talk  of  "  raw-head-and-bloody-bones." 


344  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

dick,  fat  and  jolly;  and   Marshal   Lacy,   thîn   and 
amiable  looking. 

Mrs.  S.  now  frequently  spends  her  evenings 
with  the  Archduchess  Marianne,  and  sometimes 
with  the  Empress.  At  Kaunitz's  we  generally 
adjourn  after  dinner  to  his  garden  and  have  fruit 
and  refreshments  under  the  trees. 


August  24th, 

I  have  been  presented  to  Joseph  II.,  who  is 
just  returned  to  Vienna.  Some  other  English 
were  presented  at  the  same  time,  viz.,  my  nephew 
Bedingfeld,  Messrs.  Sheldon,  Chaplin  and  Stratton. 
The  Emperor  spoke  to  me  very  graciously  and 
said  his  mother  had  mentioned  us  to  him.  He  is 
less  than  I  expected,  and  much  better  looking. 
He  has  harassed  himself  much,  and  does  not 
seem  strongly  built. 

The  next  day  the  Empress  herself  presented 
Mrs.  S.  to  the  Emperor  at  Schonbrunn,  where  she 
remained  to  dine  with  Madame  de  Salmour, 
grande  maîtresse  to  the  Archduchess  Marianne, 
the  widow  of  a  Piedmontese  nobleman,  and  herself 
a  Pole,  being  daughter  to  Lubienski,  a  Polish 
grandee.     On  the  partition  of  Poland  taking  place, 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  345 

the  whole  Court  was  assembled  in  an  ante- 
chamber, in  order  to  proceed  regularly  to  the 
chapel  and  hear  a  grand  Te  Deum  composed  for 
the  occasion.  Madame  de  Salmour  was  among 
the  company,  being  in  attendance  on  the  Arch- 
duchess. The  Empress  said  to  her  :  "  Madame  de 
Salmour,  je  vous  dispense  d*y  aller."  "Votre 
majesté  a  raison,"  she  replied;  "j'y  serais  peut- 
être  tentée  d'y  faire  des  vœux  contre  les  oppres- 
seurs de  ma  patrie!"  Her  remark  did  not  offend, 
for  the  successful  are  seldom  cross. 

All  the  Poles  were  presented  to  Joseph  on  his 
return  from  Russia — that  is  to  say,  those  whose 
property  was  included  in  his  share  of  Poland. 
Most  of  them  were  dressed  in  the  French  fashion 
and  acquitted  themselves  respectfully  of  their 
homage.  A  few  were  in  the  Polish  habit  ;  among 
the  rest  an  old  man,  grave,  sullen  and  backward. 
Perceiving  that  he  did  not  approach,  the  Emperor 
went  up  to  him,  addressing  him  in  a  courteous 
manner.  The  Pole  remained  sulky  and  shy. 
Joseph  asked  if  he  amused  himself  at  Vienna. 
"Very  little,"  was  the  reply.  "  I  wonder  at  that," 
said  the  Emperor,  good-humouredly,  "  for  there 
never  were  such  a  vast  number  of  your  country- 
men here  as  there  are  at  this  moment."  "Nay," 
said  the  Pole,  "I  have  heard  that  about  a  hundred 


346  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

years  ago  Vienna  was  filled  with  Poles  !  *'*  The 
Emperor,  who  tells  this  story  himself,  declares 
he  was  quite  confounded  at  this  speech,  and  totally 
unable  to  say  another  word  ;  but  he  was  so  pleased 
with  the  man's  boldness  and  amor  patricB  that 
he  felt  almost  inclined  to  shake  hands  with  him. 

Madame  de  Salmour  told  me  that  when  she 
was  Madame  de  Lubienski,  she  knew  the  King 
of  Poland,  and  that  he  was  so  fond  of  Correggio's 
"  Magdalene,"  one  of  the  forty  pictures  he  bought 
of  the  Duke  of  Modena,  that  wherever  he  went 
this  picture  accompanied  him  in  a  case  and  was 
hung  up  in  his  apartments. 

Our  friend  Madame  d'Ulsfield  has  given  us 
many  particulars  of  the  Empress's  life.  The 
day  of  her  appearing  before  the  Hungarian  nobles 
they  were  in  a  large  hall,  where  a  balustrade  was 
put  up  to  keep  off  the  crowd.  She  came  in 
deep  mourning,  with  her  infant  son  in  her  arms, 
and  began  a  Latin  speech,  but  as  she  pronounced 
the  first  words  of  it,  viz.,  "  Afflicto  rerum  statu," 
the  tears  suffocated  her  and  impeded  her  utterance. 
The  whole  assembly  with  one  movement  rose  and, 

I  Alluding  to  the  year  1683,  when  John  Sobieski,  King 
of  Poland,  marched  to  the  relief  of  Vienna,  then  besieged 
by  the  Turks,  whom  he  attacked  and  routed,  and  thus  not 
only  liberated  that  capital,  but  Hungary,  which  had  been 
overrun  by  the  Ottomans. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  347 

with  their  fingers  upraised,  called  out  :  "  Moriemur 
pro  regina  Theresa." 

When  Francis  died,  she  was  given  to  under- 
stand from  caballing  courtiers,  which  equally  exist 
in  all  countries,  that  Joseph  would  probably  seize 
the  reins  of  empire  ;  and  being  now  Emperor 
(having  been  elected  King  of  the  Romans  previous 
to  his  father's  death),  would  not  consent  to  be 
subservient  to  his  mother.  She,  therefore,  felt  un- 
easy and  uncomfortable  ;  but  he  soon  put  an  end 
to  her  fears,  for,  the  first  time  they  met,  he 
threw  himself  at  her  feet,  saying:  "Je  serai  toujours 
votre  fidèle  Joseph,  le  plus  dévoué  de  vos  sujets  !  " 

The  Empress  is  loved  by  the  people  as  well 
as  admired.  When  she  lay  dangerously  ill  ot  the 
small-pox,  Joseph  met  an  old  marshal  on  the  stairs 
coming  firom  the  ante-room  of  her  apartment, 
where  he  had  been  to  inquire  how  she  was.  He 
was  in  a  flood  of  tears  on  having  learnt  that  her 
recovery  was  despaired  of.  "  Am  I,  then,  such  a 
tyrant,"  said  the  Emperor,  "that  you  dread  being 
governed  by  me?"  "No,  sir,"  said  the  soldier; 
"  but  we  know  what  we  lose  I  " 

Duke  Albert  of  Saxony  is  very  good-looking, 
and  made  a  conquest,  not  only  of  the  Arch- 
duchess Christina,  whom  he  married,  but  of  her 
sister  Josephine,  whose  nuptials  with  the  King  of 


348  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

Naples  were  fixed  upon  by  her  mother.  It  was 
not,  however,  her  fate  to  be  Queen  of  Naples,  for, 
having  caught  the  small-pox,  she  died  the  very  day 
that  had  been  fixed  upon  for  her  departure,  and 
her  sister  Carolina  was  soon  after  sent  in  her 
place. 

The  most  earnest  wish  of  their  mother  was 
obtained  when  she  succeeded  in  making  her 
youngest  daughter  Queen  of  France.  The  Arch- 
duchess Antoinette  was,  at  fourteen,  extremely 
pious  and  well  inclined  in  every  respect  ;  and 
when  the  marriage  was  arranged,  Marie  Thérèse, 
whose  religion  did  not  prevent  her  giving  way  to 
superstitious  propensities,  visited  a  nun  of  a  neigh- 
bouring convent  who  was  considered  able  to  see 
into  the  future.  She  expressed  her  anxiety  for 
the  soul  of  her  pious,  good  child,  now  about  to 
be  separated  from  her  for  the  rest  of  her  life,  and 
going  to  so  depraved  a  Court  as  that  of  Louis 
Quinze.  The  answer  she  received  was  this:  "Elle 
aura  de  grands  revers,  et  puis  elle  redeviendra 
pieuse.*'  Struck  by  the  thought  of  her  good  child 
ceasing  to  be  pious,  which  was  implied  by  these 
words,  the  Empress  burst  into  tears  and  was 
with  difficulty  restored  to  calmness.  She,  how- 
ever, was  not  sufficiently  credulous  or  provident 
for   the   happiness   of  her   young   daughter   to  put 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  349 

an   end,  on   that   account,  to   the   negotiations  for 
the  Archduchess's  marriage. 

The  Empress  is  extremely  imposed  upon  by 
hypocrites  of  all  sorts.^  Many  an  officer  has  gone 
to  her  chapel  and  made  all  the  grimaces  of  a 
bigot  and  zealot,  which  has  attracted  her  notice 
and  procured  him  promotion;  after  which  he  has 
never  appeared  there  again.  She  gives  money  to 
all  the  soldiers  who  do  duty  about  the  palace, 
and,  on  extraordinary  occasions,  to  the  officers, 
and  throws  about  ducats  among  the  poor  people 
when  she  drives  about  the  streets.  She  was, 
formerly,  very  rigorous  and  as  bad  as  an  in- 
quisitor, having  ladies  and  gentlemen  carried  off 
for  the  least  irregularity  of  conduct;  which,  as 
King  Croquignolet^  says  of  the  fillips,  exacted  for 
his  nose,  "fatiguoient  beaucoup  le  pauvre  peuple." 
However,  at  present,  her  fervour  has  abated  con- 
siderably.     Her    affairs    are    wretchedly    managed, 

I  Mr.  Swinburne  mentions  this  as  if  it  were  an  un- 
common occurrence.  It  would  be  difficult  to  name  any 
sovereign  who  has  not  been  imposed  upon  by  hypocrites 
and  self-interested  sycophants.  Half  the  misfortunes  that 
occur  to  states  arise  from  monarchs  being  led,  instead  of 
leading.  The  welfare  of  the  people  must  be  that  of  all 
crowned  heads,  for  their  own  welfare  depends  upon  it. 
The  welfare  of  courtiers,  on  the  contrary,  depends  upon 
the  downfall  of  others. 

2  King  Croquignolet,   the   hero   of  the   fairy-tale   called 
«  Coque  d'Œuf." 


350 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


without  intelligence  or  ceremony.  She  gives,  of 
late,  much  money  to  priests  to  distribute  in  alms, 
and,  of  course,  the  poor  get  little  or  nothing  in 
comparison  with  what  they  had  when  she  herself 
bestowed  her  charity  without  the  medium  it  now 
passes  through. 


September  12th. 

I  rode  the  other  day  up  the  mountain  of 
the  Calemberg,  towards  a  house  of  Count  Coben- 
zel,  the  view  from  which  place  is  astonishingly 
fine.  The  low  mountains  of  Hungary  bound  the 
horizon  of  an  immense  plain,  through  which  the 
Danube  flows,  divided  by  large  woody  islands 
into  a  variety  of  lakes  and  canals.  The  bridges 
may  be  traced  all  through,  and  Vienna  lies  under 
the  eye.  I  have  also  been  up  to  the  Camal- 
dolin  convent  of  Calemberg,  backed  with  large 
woods  of  oak  and  beech.  It  forms  one  point  of 
the  ridge  which  advances  into  the  plain  ;  the 
Leopoldsberg,  or  Schlussel,  is  the  other.  This 
last  is  a  very  narrow  brow,  with  a  kind  of  a 
castle  belonging  to  the  Crown.  The  view  from 
it  is  wonderful,  in  which  the  abbey  of  Kloster 
Neuberg   is   a   grand   object. 

Our   dinners   and   festive   parties  are  innumer- 
able.      We    breakfasted    yesterday    with    General 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  35 1 

Pellegrini,  at  a  charming  house  on  the  ramparts, 
delightfully  situated,  with  a  fine  view  of  Vienna 
from  its  windows.  The  interior  is  deliciously  fitted 
up.  It  contains  a  salon  all  painted  with  cameos, 
well  executed.  We  met  the  Emperor  several  even- 
ings at  Madame  de  Berghausen's.  He  was  quite 
easy  and  chatty;  he  listens  with  attention  to  what 
is  said  by  others,  and  talks  freely  and  merrily. 
One  is  apt  to  expect  more  from  an  Emperor 
and  to  forget  that  he  is  one.  His  accent  is 
rather  harsh  and  nasal.  His  French  is  very 
good,  except  a  few  Germanisms.  He  sometimes 
puts  on  his  field-marshal's  coat,  often  drives  him- 
self in  a  low  phaeton  with  a  pair  of  English 
horses,  and  two  servants  behind  in  gray  coats 
turned  up  with  yellow,  and  silver-laced  waistcoats 
and   hats. 

Vienna  is  divided  into  town  and  suburbs. 
The  former  is  small,  not  above  three  miles  round. 
It  is  hilly,  but  not  much  on  a  slope  to  a  branch 
of  the  Danube,  on  which  side  the  fortifications 
are  not  very  considerable.  Those  on  the  west, 
near  the  Schotten,  are  extremely  lofty,  because 
on  that  side  the  ground  without  is  high.  The 
Turks  pitched  their  camp  there  in  the  last  siege. 

There  are  eight  ways  out  of  the  city.  The 
gates   are   never   shut.      The   streets    are    crooked, 


2^2  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

narrow  and  indifferently  paved,  with  many  dis- 
agreeable smells,  as  there  are  no  sewers  to  carry 
off  the  dirt  ;  but  the  scavengers  are  often  at  work. 
The  houses  are  high,  of  brick,  stuccoed  over,  with 
heavy  leaden  ornaments  and  iron  bars,  as  at 
Rome,  to  the  lower  windows.  It  is  usual  for 
several  families  to  occupy  the  same  house.  St. 
Stephen's,  the  cathedral,  has  a  very  curious  and 
lofty  filigree  steeple.  The  inside,  which  is  Gothic, 
is  exceedingly  black  and  smoky. 

The  squares  are  not  large,  except  the  H  of. 
The  fountains,  obelisks  and  groups  in  them  are 
in  the  style  of  the  Agaglii  at  Naples.  The  library 
is  a  superb  building.  The  palace  is  convenient, 
but  not  handsome,  although  the  façade  of  Prince 
CoUoredo's  apartments  is  showy.  The  hotel  of 
the  Council  of  War  is  a  new  grand  building.  The 
arsenal  contains  a  vast  quantity  of  arms  and 
many  curiosities,  viz.,  trophies  of  the  Turks, 
Prince  Eugène^s  armour,  which,  in  size,  is  like 
that  of  a  little  boy;  also  the  immense  chain 
which  the  Turks  extended  across  the  river  to 
prevent  succours  coming  into  the  town  by  water  ; 
half  of  it  fills  the  court,  round  which  it  is  hung 
on  pegs.  There  is  also  a  monstrous  ill-made 
cannon  taken  from  the  Turks. 

There    was    formerly    a    Scotch   college    here, 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  353 

but  nothing  now  remains  of  that  nation  save  the 
name,  which  the  church  and  gate  still  retain. 
The  Empress  has  about  eighty  capital  houses  in 
town,  where  she  lodges  her  officers  of  State,  &c., 
besides  apartments  in  particular  houses,  reserved 
in  their  leases.  Few  of  the  common  people  live 
in  the  city. 

There  are  two  theatres;  the  French  one  is 
the  larger,  that  of  the  palace  the  cleaner  and 
prettier.  Many  houses  have  doors  opening  on 
the  ramparts,  which  is  a  great  agrément.  The 
custom-house  is  a  handsome  quadrangle.  The 
fish-market  is  in  a  street  parallel  to  the  Danube, 
and  beyond  the  ancient  walls,  which  still  appear. 

They  say  the  town  is  lately  much  increased, 
and  formerly  must  have  been  little  more  than  a 
castle  in  size. 

September  iSth, 
I  dined  lately  in  the  suburbs,  at  the  magni- 
ficent villa  of  Prince  Schwartzenberg,  with  Sir 
R.  Keith,  Galippi,  Auditor  of  Mexico,  and  Count 
and  Countess  Ohenhausen,  from  Portugal.  The 
Countess   is    the    grand-daughter    of  Tavora,^    and 

I  The  Marquis  de  Tavora,  who  was  implicated  with 
the  Duke  d'Aveiro  in  the  famous  conspiracy  and  attempt 
to  murder  Joseph  I.,  King  of  Portugal,  in  1758.  The  con- 
spiracy was  discovered,  and  all  the  parties  and  their 
families  suffered  death  or  unlimited  imprisonment. 

VOL.    I  23 


^cA  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

from  a  year  old  was  State  prisoner  with  her 
mother.  We  also  had  Countess  Daun,  and  Mr. 
Harford,  son  of  the  unfortunate  Lord  Baltimore. 

We  again  met  the  Emperor  at  Madame  de 
Berghausen's,  where  he  was  extremely  merry  and 
talkative,  ridiculed  the  story  of  the  King  of 
Poland's  assassination,  and  talked  of  Mrs.  Ma- 
cauley  and  her  hatred  of  kings.  He  said  he 
understood  she  had  fainted  away  whenever  they 
were  named,  and  asked  if  she  put  three  stars 
whenever  she  was  obliged  to  mention  one  in  her 
history.*  He  spoke  with  horror  of  lettres  de  cachet 
and  arbitrary  unformal  condemnations  ;  and  I 
make  no  doubt,  from  all  he  seems  to  think,  and 
from  what  others  say  of  him,  that  his  accession 
to  power  will  be  the  means  of  bringing  liberty 
and  happiness  throughout  his  dominions,  at  least, 
if  he  has  moderation  and  head  enough  to  begin 
with  prudence;  but  that  is  still  a  problem.  Of 
his  intentions  there  is  no  doubt;  of  his  success 
a  great  deal.  He  will  have  much  to  cope  with. 
The  friars  and  priests  detest  and  abuse  him  and 
there  is  a  strong  party   of  them.»    They   give   out 


1  A  History  of  England. 

2  The  efforts  of  the  Emperor  Joseph  to  extend  reli- 
gious liberty  to  the  whole  of  his  subjects  and  to  emanci- 
pate the  Protestants  in  liis  Netherland   dominions  from  the 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  355 

that  he  has  no  friendship,  constancy,  or  warmth 
of  heart,  and  that  he  is  totally  incapable  of  a 
generous  feeling;  in  short,  they  know  not  how 
to  speak  ill  enough  of  him.  Mais  je  n'en  crois 
rien;  it  is  something  that  a  despotic  potentate 
should  wish  for  freedom  and  liberty  among  his 
people,  and  such  a  hobby-horse  can  but  be  bene- 
ficial, if  only  to  put  it  into  the  heads  of  others; 
for  as  Laville,  when  he  married,  told  us  as  an 
excuse,  "  qu'il  faut  faire  une  fin  ;  "  I  say,  vice 
versa,  "qu'il  faut  à  toutes  choses  un  commence- 
ment." 


September  2,2nd, 

Two   days   ago   the   Emperor   sent   for   me    in 

the   evening  to   Schonbrunn,  where  I  walked  with 

him   in  the  gardens.     He  was  very  agreeable  and 

is  certainly  very   clever.      He   is   on   the   point   of 

exclusive  penalties  that  affected  them,  were  amongst  the 
causes  that  led  to  the  Brabant  Revolution  in  1789.  As  a 
sample  of  the  spirit  of  the  priesthood  and  of  Catholic 
tolerance,  I  quote  the  following  reply  made  to  the  Emperor 
by  the  Synod  of  Louvain,  when  H.T.M.  asked  their 
opinion  upon  his  project  of  according  equal  rights  and  pri- 
vileges to  all  classes  of  his  subjects  without  distinction  of 
faith.  "  Tolerance,"  said  the  reverend  fathers,  "  would  be 
the  cause  of  dissensions,  hatreds  and  interminable  discord; 
because  the  Catholic  reUgion  regards  all  heretics,  without 
distinction,  as  victims  devoted  to  eternal  perdition.  The 
Catholic  religion  impresses  this  maxim  upon  her  children 
as  an  essential  dogma  and  invariable  article  of  her  faith." 

23 — 2 


35^ 


LETTERS    FROM    THE 


setting  out  for  Bohemia,  and  yesterday  rode  in 
the  Prater,  showing  the  Empress,  who  was  in  her 
carriage,  the  improvements  that  are  making.  He 
rides  very  ill. 

I  was  at  a  large  dinner  party  of  all  nations,  at 
Foscarini's,  the  Venetian  ambassador's.  Ohen- 
hausen  mentioned  an  anecdote  of  Count  OHvaréz,* 
viz.,  his  artful  manner  of  informing  Philip  IV. 
that  Portugal  was  lost.  **  I  congratulate  you,  sire  !  " 
said  he;  **the  estates  of  the  Duke  of  Braganza 
are  all  fallen  to  Your  Majesty,  for  he  has  dared 
to  seat  himself  on  the  throne  of  Portugal." 

We  had  in  the  evening  a  pleasant  réunion 
chez  Madame  de  Berghen,  where  it  is  the  fashion 
to  play  at  des  jeux  d'esprit»  There  is  no  form — 
a  most  agreeable  society,  with  dancing  and  supper 
towards  the  end  of  the  evening.  Such  parties 
often  take  place  here,  which,  in  my  opinion,  are 
pleasanter  than  large  and  formal  assemblies  and 
balls. 

I  have  visited  the  Imperial  cabinet  of  natural 
history.  Baron  Bâillon,  the  director,  has  arranged 
it  systematically  to  prove  that  the  polypus  system 
is   not  here   in    all    its    positions,   and    that    great 

I  The  renowned  Gasper  Guzman,  Conde  Duque  d'Oli- 
varéz,  prime  minister  to  Philip  IV.  of  Spain  during  twenty- 
two  years.     He  died  in  disgrace  at  Toro  in  1643. 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  357 

part  of  those  productions  are  vegetables  and  a 
chain  up  to  hfe.  The  petrified  woods  are  curious, 
the  minerals  rich,  and  the  precious  stones  valuable, 
particularly  a  large  turnip  of  opal  not  to  be  set 
a  price  upon.  A  Jew  offered  two  hundred  thou- 
sand florins  for  it.  There  is  a  black  diamond, 
a  rainbow  diamond,  and  a  nosegay  composed  of 
all  the  precious  stones  existing.  The  collection 
of  shells  is  fine  ;    some  are   unique. 

The  medals  we  brought  from  Italy  are  much 
admired  here.  We  went  to  see  Neuman's  medals, 
and  dined  with  him  at  the  convent  of  St.  Doro- 
thea; he  is  a  learned  man,  and  gave  us  his  book 
on  "  Nummi  Indefiniti  "  —  a  strange  composition. 
He  told  us  that  Edenborg,  in  Hungary,  is  said 
to  have  been  called  so  by  Edgar  Atheling, 
who   resided   there. 


October  i6th. 

Kaunitz  is  the  greatest  tyrant  and  bashaw  I 
ever  knew  ;  he  has  always  some  dishes  and  cakes 
(peculiar  dainties)  reserved  for  himself,  which 
nobody  dares  to  touch.  As  he  mostly  makes  me 
sit  near  him,  the  Countess  de  Thun  warned  me 
not  to  transgress,  which,  perhaps,  put  it  into  my 
head  to  do  so,  for  I  did  not  care  a  halfpenny 
about    him.      Accordingly   I   took   an   opportunity, 


358 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


and,  notwithstanding  all  the  signs  and  distressed 
looks  of  my  wife  opposite,  I  succeeded  in  carrying 
off  some  of  his  favourite  gauffres  and  sweetmeats. 
He  looked  very  awkward,  grew  quite  reserved,  and 
me  bouder  for  several  days.  I  took  no  notice  of 
his  pettishness,  which  amused  me  extremely,  and 
in  about  a  week  he  came  round  of  himself.  I 
was  walking  from  dinner  through  a  long  string 
of  rooms,  talking  to  the  Nuncio,  when  I  felt  an 
arm  thrown  over  my  shoulder,  and,  turning  round, 
saw  it  was  Kaunitz  in  high  good-humour.  He 
said  he  wanted  my  opinion  of  a  variety  of  pictures 
exhibited  for  his  approbation  by  Michel,  the  en- 
graver of  Basle — who  makes  him  his  dupe  for 
these  pictures  are  absolute  daubs.  Amongst  others 
is  one  of  a  pope,  which  the  Nuncio  and  I  thought 
to  be  one  of  those  exhibited  at  Rome  at  l'Ara 
de  Massimi,  price  sixteen  paoli. 

When  the  Grand  Duke  Leopold  was  to  be 
married  at  Innsbruck  to  the  King  of  Spain's 
daughter,  Prince  Kaunitz  went  thither  before- 
hand to  see  that  everything  was  in  order  for  the 
fete.  The  opera,  among  the  rest,  engaged  his 
attention,  and  he  questioned  Gliick  about  it. 
The  composer  assured  him  that  the  performers, 
singers  and  decorations  were  perfect.  "  Well, 
then,"    said   the   Prince,    **  let    us    have    the    opera 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  35g 

directly."  "How?"  exclaimed  Gluck,  "without 
an  audience  ?  "  "  Monsieur  Gliick,"  he  replied, 
**  sachez  que  la  qualité  vaut  bien  la  quantité  ; 
je  suis  moi  seul  une  audience."  He  was  obeyed, 
and  I  heard  him  tell  this  with  great  triumph. 

Kaunitz  patronised  a  Diamice.^  One  day, 
when  he  carried  his  portfeuille  to  the  Empress, 
she  began  to  upbraid  him  with  the  scandal  of  his 
conduct.  "Madame,"  said  he,  "je  suis  venu  ici 
pour  parler  des  affaires  de  votre  Majesté,  non  des 
miennes." 

On  the  loth,  Mrs.  S.  had  a  long  audience  of 
the  Empress,  who  said,  in  conversation,  she  was 
sure  her  son  the  Emperor  would  not  live  long,  as 
he  imitated  the  King  of  Prussia  in  ever3^thing 
and  had  not  a  constitution  for  it.  She  also  told 
her  she  was  certain  she,  herself,  would  soon  die, 
and  she  only  regretted  life  because  she  had  set 
her  heart  upon  marrying  the  Archduke  Francis 
to  her  grand-daughter,  Marie  Thérèse  of  Naples. 
She  has  since  sent  Mrs.  S.  the  cross,  patent  and 
statutes  of  the  order  of  the  croix  êtoiUe? 


1  A  celebrated  dancer  and  courtesan  of  that  period. 

2  This  order  for  noble  ladies,  called  the  Sternkrmz  ordm, 
was  instituted  by  the  Empress  Eleanor  on  the  i8th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1668.  Its  origin  is  curious.  The  House  of  Austria 
believed  that  it  possessed  a  small  piece  of  the  true  cross. 
This  reUc,  fixed  in  a  small  golden  crucifix,  was  constantly 


26o  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

The  Emperor  is  returned  from  Bohemia.  I 
went  to  Court  the  day  after  his  arrival,  and  the 
same  evening  to  the  German  theatre,  in  Count 
Rosenberg's  box,  to  see  Madame  Sacco  as  Medea, 
in  a  mélodrame.  She  does  it  almost  alone,  and 
a  terrible  part  it  is  ;  the  music  is  intended  to  ex- 
press the  passions,  so  that  the  v^ords  are  few. 
She  acted  so  well  that  it  was  too  affecting,  and 
is  certainly  superior  to  anything  I  know  of  on  any 
other  stage  at  present.  The  Emperor,  who  was 
in  the  next  box,  interpreted  it  verse  by  verse  to 
Mrs.  S.  throughout  the  play  as  it  went  on. 

The  Emperor  came  one  night  since  his  return 
to  Madame  Berghen's,  and  the  society  was  not 
rendered  a  bit  more  formal  by  his  presence.  He 
entered  into  the  amusements  and  was  very  good- 
natured,    but   did    not    stay   long.      He    is    always 

worn  by  the  Emperors  Maximilian  and  Ferdinand  III.  On 
the  death  of  the  latter,  Leopold  presented  it  to  the  widowed 
Empress  Eleanor,  who  caused  it  to  be  mounted  in  a  small 
but  costly  rdiquarium  of  gold,  enamel  and  crystal.  On  the 
2nd  of  February,  1666,  a  fire  suddenly  broke  out  in  the 
Empress's  apartments,  and  burned  with  such  rapidity  and 
fury  that  she  had  scarcely  time  to  save  herself  ere  the 
chamber  in  which  the  relic  was  deposited  fell  in.  But 
upon  examining  the  ruins  some  days  after,  the  little  case 
was  found  almost  intact.  The  Empress,  therefore,  ordered 
a  procession;  the  Prince- Bishop  of  Vienna  drew  up  a  procès 
verbal  commemorative  of  the  miracle;  and,  to  render  the 
circumstance  more  striking,  a  bull  was  obtained  from  the 
Pope,  sanctioning  the  foundation  of  the  order. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  361 

thinking  of  politics,  and  one  evening  at  the  play 
looked  out  of  his  adjoining  box  to  tell  Mrs.  S. 
that  the  Dutch  were  taking  the  part  of  the  French 
in  the  most  glaring  manner;  and  that  if  Pitt 
(Lord  Chatham)  had  been  alive  he  would  have 
declared  against  Holland  six  months  ago. 


November  zgth. 

The  day  before  we  left  Vienna,  we  took  leave 
of  the  Empress  and  the  Archduchess  Marianne, 
who  has  desired  Mrs.  S.  to  correspond  with  her. 
The  Empress  gave  watches  to  the  boys.  We  spent 
an  evening  at  Madame  Berghen's,  where  a  game 
was  played  of  subjects  given  around  for  verses. 
On  that  of  Vienna,  I  wrote  these  lines: 

Belle  Vienne  !   délicieuse  gîte  ! 
Ville  pleine  de  plaisirs  et  d'attraits, 
Depuis  le  tems  heureux  que  je  t'habite, 
Chez  toi  de  jour  en  jour  plus  je  me  plais. 
Mais  le  tems  passe,  il  faut  que  je  te  quitte. 
Hélas  !   mon  cœur,  attristé  de  regrets, 
Au  moment  du  depart  encore  hésite 
À  dire  adieu,  peut-être  pour  jamais  ! 

We  slept  the  first  night  at  St.  Poellon.  The 
first  post  after  passing  Schonbrunn  is  through  woody 
mountains,  as  handsome  as  such  scenes  can  be  in 
a  tame  manner;  not  the  bold  savage  rocks  and 
waterfalls  of  the  Alps,  but  the  rich  flowing  hills  of 


362 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


Sussex  and  Surrey.  We  had  some  transitory  peeps 
of  the  Danube  ;  excellent  roads  ;  an  innumerable 
quantity  of  beggars  in  every  place.  There  are 
several  country-seats  in  noble  situations. 

Molck  has  an  abbey  of  Benedictines,  a  most 
superb  edifice;  its  church  has  a  large  cupola  and 
two  steeples.  The  lodging  part  is  endless.  Its 
situation,  on  the  point  of  a  rock,  looking  both  up 
and  down  the  Danube,  is  very  grand,  and  the  edifice 
affords  a  striking  object  to  all  the  country. 

We  now  drove  through  a  beautiful  country  with 
every  variety  that  can  be  desired  in  a  landscape  ; 
noble  reaches  of  the  river  and  the  distant  blue  moun- 
tains of  Bohemia  and  Styria.  Many  towns  and  large 
country-seats  give  life  to  the  vegetative  scenery. 

Ens,  where  we  arrived  in  the  evening,  is  a 
poor,  small  town,  the  Lauriacum  of  the  ancients, 
on  the  point  of  a  ridge  above  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  which  falls  into  the  Danube  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  below — a  delightful  position  for  prospect. 
Count  Aversberg  resides  in  a  large  château  at  the 
end,  in  the  finest  situation  imagmable.  The  air  is 
good,  but  the  cold  in  winter  intense. 

Mr.  Bedingfeld  was  there  to  meet  us,  and 
we  went  with  a  letter  from  the  Nuncio  to  the 
Augustinian  College  at  San  Florianus,  a  most 
magnificent   establishment.     We   were   received   by 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  363 

the  prelate  with  great  politeness.  A  canon  spoke 
Italian  to  me,  for  I  am  sorry  to  say  I  did  not 
learn  much  German  during  my  residence  at  the 
capital,  where  French  is  universally  spoken.  The 
galleries  and  apartments  for  the  Imperial  family 
are  extremely  grand.  There  is  the  bed-chamber 
of  Prince  Eugène,  hung  with  military  trophies,  &c. 
Two  good  portraits  of  him  and  Charles  VI.  are 
reckoned  the  best  likenesses  of  them  existing.  There 
are  a  fine  collection  of  manuscripts  and  a  cabinet 
of  medals.  The  church  is  full  of  columns  of  one 
piece,  from  the  mountains  of  Saltzberg. 

Lintz  is  a  small  town,  the  form  of  which 
is  square.  On  the  old  rampart  (for  there  are  no 
fortifications)  is  a  pleasant  walk  leading  up  to  the 
castle — a  plain  house  where  Leopold  I.  waited  the 
event  of  the  battle  of  Vienna.  It  commands  an 
immense  view  of  the  Danube  and  of  the  great 
wooden  bridge  over  it.  Boats  are  constantly  pass- 
ing, laden  with  cabbages  for  sauerkrout.  It  is  a 
beautiful  country,  with  landscapes  that  might  em- 
ploy a  painter  for  months. 

From  Lintz  is  a  charming  road  by  the  water- 
side. This  picturesque  country  is  all  a  new  acqui- 
sition of  the  Emperor's.  At  Scharding,  a  medium- 
sized  walled  town,  we  crossed  the  Inn,  a  broad 
rapid  river,  and  entered  Bavaria,  a  charming  country. 


364  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

like  the  woody  parts  of  Bedfordshire.  The  women 
hereabouts  no  longer  wear  the  large  black  hats  of 
the  Austrians,  but  round-eared  caps,  and  their  petti- 
coats very  short. 

Many  parts  of  our  journey  resembled  a  park, 
and  that  in  the  most  elegant  taste.  Vilshofen  is 
prettily  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Danube, 
with  a  small  stream  of  very  black  water.  Strau- 
bingen  is  a  large,  ugly  town,  where  we  found  difficulty 
in  getting  horses,  as  they  were  reserved  for  the  Arch- 
duke Maximilian  in  his  passage  from  Magentheim, 
the  residence  of  the  chief  of  the  Teutonic  order. 

Ratisbon  is  a  poorly-built,  uneven  and  roughly- 
paved  town,  with  a  kennel  in  the  middle  of  each 
street.  Its  cathedral  is  old  and  gothic,  the  steeples 
poor,  being  covered  with  tiles,  like  houses.  There 
is  no  monument  of  any  consequence,  except  a  large 
statue  of  a  cardinal  of  the  Palatine  family.  At 
the  Abbey  of  St.  Emerand  there  is  an  ugly  ginger- 
bread monument  of  Henry,  Prince  of  Tour  and 
Taxis,  and  statues  of  Charlemagne  and  St.  Henri. 
The  diet  is  held  in  an  old,  dark,  dismal  town- 
house.  The  magistracy,  with  the  chamberlain,  are 
all  Lutherans;  the  bishops,  monks  and  canons  are 
Catholics,  and  as  free  as  the  burghers,  all  their 
houses  being  asylums.  The  territories  scarcely 
extend  beyond  the  walls,  which  go  about  two  miles 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  365 

out.  There  does  not  seem  to  be  a  handsome  edifice 
in  the  town.  Every  Prince,  free  state,  abbot,  &c., 
in  Germany  has  a  minister  here.  The  Electors 
have  ambassadors,  among  whom  that  of  Mayence 
ranks  the  first. 

The  roads  from  thence  to  Nuremberg  are 
execrable.  This  latter  is  a  large,  ill-situated  town  ; 
its  houses  in  the  antique  German  style,  painted 
red  and  other  colours  on  the  outside. 

On  entering  the  territories  of  the  Prince-Bishop 
of  Wurtzburg,  appeared  vineyards,  the  first  we  had 
seen  since  we  left  Vienna.  We  passed  the  Mein  at 
Kitzingen.  The  appearance  of  Wurtzburg  is  grand, 
as  the  number  of  steeples  cut  a  great  figure,  as  well 
as  the  episcopal  palace,  which  is  built  of  a  darkish 
stone.  It  is  the  grandest  and  best  furnished  of 
any  I  have  seen;  indeed,  too  large  and  magnifi- 
cent for  the  petty  sovereign  lodged  in  it  ;  he  has 
some  fine  pictures,  by  Wouvermans  and  Brughels. 
The  great  hall,  painted  by  Tiepolo,  is  superb,  as 
well  as  a  cabinet  of  mirrors  painted  in  grotesques. 
The  bishop  has  three  thousand  regular  troops  and 
as  many  militia,  and  is  allowed  forty  thousand 
florins  yearly  for  pocket-money,  every  other  ex- 
pense being  defrayed. 

Next  day  we  entered  an  immense  forest,  all 
of  reddish  sand,  and  the  stones  the  same  colour. 


366  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

We  then  reached  Aschaffenburg,  on  the  Mein,  a 
town  belonging  to  the  Elector,  who  has  a  summer 
residence  there  and  has  made  drives  and  walks  in 
the  forest.  The  palace  of  red  stone  is  very  un- 
sightly, with  tall  steeples  at  each  angle.  He  is 
brother  to  the  Prince  of  Wurtzburg,  and  is  a 
cross,  ill-looking  priest. 

Hanau,  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  a  very 
pretty,  regular  town  ;  its  houses  neat  and  gaily 
painted.  The  hereditary  Prince  of  Hesse  Cassel 
resides  near  it  and  takes  great  pains  to  embellish 
the  place  with  walks,  buildings,  roads,  &c.  At 
a  small  distance  from  the  town  he  has  created  a 
water-drinking  place,  called  Wilhelmstadt,  where 
everything  is  laid  out  in  the  Vauxhall  style.  It 
allures  many  people  from  Frankfort.  There  is  a 
print  of  him,  dressed  as  a  tapster,  inviting  people 
to  his  rooms.  His  grenadiers  have  caps  and 
curls,  and  enormous  pigtails.^ 

I  The  attachment  of  the  Elector  of  Hesse  Cassel  to 
pigtails  was  exemplified  in  a  laughable  manner  upon  his 
return  to  his  dominions  in  1813.  Upon  this  occasion  he 
was  greeted  with  the  Uveliest  demonstrations  of  rejoicings 
and  affection  ;  but  nothing  seemed  to  afford  him  pleasure, 
or  to  excite  his  admiration,  until  at  last  an  old  officer 
appeared  before  him  with  a  queue  of  gigantic  proportions. 
Upon  this  the  Elector's  countenance  expanded,  he  smiled 
graciously  and,  turning  round  to  his  principal  aide-de-camp, 
exclaimed  :  "  Gott  sey  gelobt,  der  hat  ihn  noch."  (God 
be  praised,  he  has  got  it  still.) 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  367 

At  Frankfort  we  put  up  at  a  very  good  inn, 
l'Empereur.  The  situation  of  the  town  is  flat. 
The  fortifications  are  modern  and  in  good  repair. 
It  is  a  very  dear  place.  There  are  a  few  convents 
and  a  great  many  Jews.  The  proverb  current 
here  is  that  "The  Calvinists  have  the  money,  the 
Catholics  the  churches,  and  the  Lutherans  the 
power."  We  went  to  see  the  golden  bull  of  the 
Emperor  Charles  IV.,  which  is  an  old  parchment 
roll.^ 

As  we  entered  Limburg,  an  ill-looking  fellow 
all  in  tatters,  followed  by  a  corporal  and  two 
sentinels  in  the  same  accoutrements,  asked  us  our 
names,  and  told  us  he  was  the  guard  of  his 
serene  highness  the  Elector  of  Treves.  It  is  a 
medium-sized,  ugly  town. 

We  crossed  the  Rhine  at  Ehrenbreitstein  on 
a  flying  bridge,  a  convenient  invention,  preferable 
to  our  ferry  boats.  Coblentz  is  a  pretty  town,  in 
the   midst  of  a  thousand   natural   beauties.     Bonn 


I  The  famous  golden  bull  of  Charles  IV.,  which  was 
regarded  as  the  fundamental  law  and  constitution  of  the 
Germanic  Empire,  was  first  promulgated  at  Nuremberg  in 
1354.  Its  purport  is  too  well  known  to  require  comment, 
especially  as  its  main  object  has  become  a  dead  letter  by 
the  dissolution  of  the  Empire.  Amongst  other  ordinances 
of  this  bull,  was  the  constitution  of  the  seven  electors,  who 
were  thus  nominated  in  honour  of  the  seven  candelabras 
of  the  Apocalypse. 


268  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

is  also  a  pretty  town,  neatly  built,  and  its  streets 
tolerably  well  paved,  all  in  black  lava.  It  is 
situated  in  a  fiat  near  the  river.  The  Elector  of 
Cologne's  palace  faces  the  south  entry.  It  has 
no  beauty  of  architecture,  and  is  all  plain  white, 
without  any  pretensions. 

We  went  to  Court,  and  were  invited  to  dine 
with  the  Elector  (Konigsegge).  He  is  seventy- 
three  years  old,  a  little  hale,  dark  man,  very 
merry  and  affable.  His  table  is  none  of  the  best; 
no  dessert  wines  handed  about,  nor  any  foreign 
wines  at  all.  He  is  easy  and  agreeable,  having 
lived  all  his  life  in  ladies'  company  which  he  is 
said  to  have  liked  better  than  his  breviary.  The 
captains  of  his  guard  and  a  few  other  people  of 
the  Court  formed  the  company,  amongst  whom 
were  his  two  great  nieces,  Madame  de  Hatzfeld 
and  Madame  de  Taxis. 

The  palace  is  of  an  immense  size,  the  ball- 
room particularly  large,  but  low.  The  cabinet  of 
natural  history  is  rich  and  well  provided  with 
birds,  minerals  and  petrifactions.  A  large  human 
skull,  petrified,  with  all  its  articulations,  is  a  rare 
piece.  There  are  also  various  beautiful  corals 
and  fungi  and  the  efflorescence  of  lead  from  the 
Tyrol. 

The  Elector  goes   about  to  all  the  assemblies 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC,  369 

and  plays  at  trictrac.  He  asked  me  to  be  of  his 
party,  but  I  was  not  acquainted  with  their  way 
of  playing.  There  is  every  evening  an  assembly 
or  play  at  Court.  The  Elector  seems  very  strong 
and  healthy,  and  will,  I  think,  hold  the  Archduke 
a  good  tug  yet. 

There  are  only  two  English  here;  one  is  Mr. 
Meadows,  who  is  come  in  search  of  the  Duchess 
of  Kingston,  to  compromise  matters  with  her; 
but  he  has  not  yet  traced  her  out.  She  is  said 
to  be  at  Riga  with  Prince  Radzivil. 

An  avenue  of  limes,  with  very  little  interrup- 
tion, lines  the  road  to  Cologne,  than  which  there 
cannot  be  a  worse  -  built,  uglier,  or  more  dirty 
city,  as  black  as  small  coal  can  make  it.  The 
cathedral  is  a  Gothic  structure,  unfinished.  The 
choir  alone  is  complete. 


Aix-la-Chapelle,  December  ist,  1780. 

We  are  now  at  the  town  where  we  were 
married,  and  find  many  old  acquaintances  still 
residing  here.  There  is  a  strange  medley  of 
ranks  :  Russian  princesses,  English  ladies  and 
German  burgomistresses.  Madame  Klotz  has  still 
her    whist    and    faro    going    on.       The     Nugents, 

VOL.  I  24 


370 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


Lalandes,  Lady  Cooke  and  Count  Riccî  are  here. 
There  is  a  kind  of  club  instituted,  to  meet  every 
evening  at  Les  Rois  d'Angleterre. 

The  Bishop  of  Osnaburg^  has  arrived  here 
from  Spa,  and  dined  with  us  at  the  table  d'hote. 
He  is  very  young  and  rather  good-looking.  Prin- 
cess Cazerni  asked  him  to  a  supper  at  the 
redoute,   but  he   declined   it. 

I  spent  a  day  at  Spa  and  v^^alked  over  the 
hills  to  enjoy  my  old  dear  points  of  view.  Spa 
seemed  still  to  me  the  lovely  place  I  always 
thought  it,  though  the  advantage  of  my  honey- 
moon having  been  spent  there  may  have  enhanced 
its  charms.  Some  alterations  have  taken  place. 
A  temple  has  been  built  on  the  hill  and  a 
guinguette  at  "Annette  et  Lubin's"  walk.  There 
is  a  new  ball-room  and  a  playhouse.  The  last 
season  was  very  numerous,  viz.,  twelve  hundred 
and  thirty  persons.  Gaming  is  excessive  and  the 
profits  of  the  bank  enormous;  its  effects  benefit 
the  country,  which  is  very  flourishing,  and  there 
are  great  things  done  in  roads,  buildings,  &c. 
But  the  sweet,  rural,  undressed  life  and  social 
pleasures  of  old  Spa  are,  I  fancy,  vanished,  and 
there  is  now  as  much  ceremony,  dress  and  luxury 
of  all  sorts  as  in  a  capital. 

1  H.R.H.  the  late  Duke  of  York. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  371 

Brussels,  February  loth,  1781. 

On  leaving  Aix-la-Chapelle  we  spent  two  days 
at  Liège.  We  went  to  the  apartments  at  Court, 
where  the  Prince-bishop  recognised  us  as  old  ac- 
quaintances and  asked  us  to  dinner  the  following 
day. 

On  our  arrival  at  Brussels,  where,  par  paren- 
thèse, we  were  kept  about  an  hour  at  the  gates, 
we  installed  ourselves  at  l'Hôtel  d'Angleterre,  and 
were  visited  by  our  envoy,  Mr.  Fitzherbert,  the 
Nuncio  Davoust  and  many  more.  The  houses 
here  are  very  neat,  and  those  building  at  the 
east  end  are  grand.  We  have  dined  with  Prince 
Starhemberg  and  Lord  Trentham. 

The  redoute  is  here  a  stupid,  dirty,  ill-lighted 
ball  at  the  playhouse,  with  no  pretty  or  well- 
dressed  women,  excepting,  perhaps,  the  Duchess 
d'Arenberg  and  Countess  de  Beaufort,  née  Mérode. 
It  was  excessively  crowded,  with  a  great  deal  of 
dancing.  We  met  many  English  and  supped  at 
Mrs.  St.  Leger's. 

We  have  Lord  and  Lady  Torrington  and 
their  daughters,  Mr.  Taylor  with  six  children, 
the  Duke  of  St.  Albans,  Coombe  of  the  Diabo- 
liad.  Lady  Juliana  and  Miss  Penn,  Lord  St. 
Asaph,  &c. 

24 — 2 


2y2  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

At  St.  Gudule's,  the  "  Delivery  of  the  Keys," 
by  Rubens,  is  a  fine  picture,  but  the  carnations 
are  shaded  with  blue  and  other  unnatural  tints. 
The  drawing  is  incorrect  and  the  heads  of  the 
sheep  not  quite  exact.  At  the  church,  in  the 
Place  Royale,  monks  and  nuns  were  assisting  at 
mass.  

Brussels,  April  ^rd,  178 1. 

We  had,  on  the  Emperor's  name-day,  a  superb 
gala  at  Prince  Starhemberg's.  The  Emperor  is 
expected  here.  He  never  would  come  during  the 
life  of  Prince  Charles,  not  to  displease  his  mother, 
with  whom  the  latter  was  a  great  favourite.  They 
say  Prince  Charles  had  grown  quite  foolish  latterly, 
but  he  still  thinks  a  great  deal  of  his  own  conse- 
quence, and  whenever  anything  occurred  which 
did  not  please  him,  his  usual  remark  was  :  "  Eh 
bien,  n'importe;  je  n'en  serai  pas  moins  le  Prince 
Charles  de  Lorraine."* 

I  This  reminds  me  of  one  Mr.  Thomas  ,  only  son 

of  Sir  James  ,  a  wealthy  Irish  baronet,   whom   Scrope 

Davies  and  others  were  wont  to  rally  for  his  dulness,  and 
to  call  him  "poor  Tom."  "Never  mind,"  replied  the  other 
one  day,  "you  may  call  me  'poor  Tom'  as  much  as  you 
please,  but  when  my  father  dies  I  shall  be  '  rich  Sir  James.'  " 
Scrope  Davies  asked  Tom's  valet  what  he  thought  of  his 
master.  "Why,  sir,"  rejoined  Le  Jasmin,  "if  I  may  be 
BO  bold,  I  should  say  that  he  is  one  of  the  grun-horned&st 
gentlemen  I  ever  saw," 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  373 

I  have  made  acquaintance  with  Mentelli,  au- 
thor of  "Cosmographie  Élémentaire,"  rather  in  a 
curious  way.  I  happened  to  buy  his  "  Géographie 
Comparée,"  and  finding  in  it  some  errors,  I  made 
a  note  of  them  and  sent  them  to  him  without 
signing  my  name.     Not  long  after,  the  bookseller 

brought    me    a    letter   directed    to    Mr.    and 

insisted  upon  its  being  for  me,  as  the  writer  had 
desired  he  should  give  it  to  the  person  who  had 
bought  of  him  the  only  set  sent  to  Brussels. 
This  letter  was  so  flattering  that  I  answered  it 
in  my  own  name  and  have  thus  opened  a  cor- 
respondence. 

I  have  made  an  excursion  to  Antwerp.  Its 
approach  is  as  pretty  as  a  flat  is  capable  of 
being  made.  The  fortifications  are  in  poor  repair, 
but  the  citadel  is  taken  care  of.  The  tower  of 
the  cathedral  looks  beautiful  over  the  town.  I 
climbed  to  the  top  of  the  steeple,  which  is  said 
to  measure  four  hundred  and  sixty-six  feet.  I 
reckoned  five  hundred  and  thirty-five  steps,  and 
there  is  a  height  above  where  it  is  impossible  to 
ascend.  From  the  steeple  I  saw  Bergen-op-Zoom, 
the  sea  and  the  winding  course  of  the  Scheldt, 
and  an  immense  tract  of  country.  The  churches 
abound  with  capital  works  of  Reubens,  Vandyck, 
and  other  Flemish  artists.     At  St.  André  is  a  very 


374  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

beautiful  picture  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  over  a 
monumental  inscription  erected  to  her  honour.  At 
the  cathedral  I  admired  the  famous  "Descent  from 
the  Cross,"  by  Reubens. 

Malines  is  quite  in  a  flat.  Its  ramparts  are 
out  of  all  repair,  and  its  ditches,  overgrown  with 
bushes  and  green  weeds,  are  quite  offensive.  The 
houses  are  in  the  old  gable-end  form.  There  are 
many  convents.  The  cathedral  makes  a  great 
figure,  its  tower  being  of  an  enormous  height  and 
seen  all  over  the  country. 

At  Vilvorde,  the  Empress  has  built  a  stu- 
pendous workhouse;  but,  from  an  unwillingness 
in  the  States  to  rid  the  streets  of  beggars,  no  use 
is  made  of  it.* 

Since  my  return  I  have  been  with  a  party 
of  friends  to  see  Château  Charles,  a  country- 
house  built  and  left  unfinished  by  the  late  Prince 
Charles  of  Lorraine.  It  stands  well,  on  a  hill 
on  the  verge  of  the  forest  of  Soignes.  One  sees 
from  it  Antwerp,  Malines,  Louvain  and  Brussels. 
The  most  remarkable  things  in  the  house  are  a 
Japan    dressing-room,    which    is    beautiful,    and    a 


I  This  immense  building  is  now  converted  into  a  prison, 
and  is  in  no  lack  of  inmates.  It  merits  a  visit  from  tra- 
vellers, as  the  regulations  are  admirable. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  375 

chair  which   goes   up  to  the  top  of  the  house  by 
machinery/ 


Ghent,  June. 

We  have  been  remaining  here  in  expectation 
of  seeing  the  Emperor,  who,  however,  went  round 
by  Antwerp  ;  therefore,  having  my  family  here,  I 
went  to  meet  him  at  Ostend.  He  had  arrived 
there  the  night  before  and  had  been  walking  all 
the  morning  about  the  port.  I  went  to  him  at 
eleven  o'clock  and  had  a  tête-à-tête  with  him  of 
nearly  an  hour,  after  which  he  received  all  peti- 
tions till  one.  General  Terzy  was  with  him.  He 
w'3  in  the  back  or  ordinary  room,  which  was 
seen  through  and  through.  Terzy  stood  in  the 
court  and  ushered  each  petitioner  in.  When  I 
came  I  was  pushed  in  directly.  A  lady  in  weeds 
was  there  with  him.  He  laughed  at  the  interview 
in  public,  dismissed  her,  and  began  to  talk  to  me 
of  the  peace  and  made  me  walk  up  and  down  the 
room,  forgetting  the  people  waiting.  He  showed 
me  the  proposals  of  the  people  of  Antwerp  for 
opening  the  port,  drawn  up  by  a  Mr.  Hatfield,  an 
Englishman.      The    citizens   offered    to    defray   the 


I  This  château,  built  by  the  Archduke  Charles  of 
Lorraine,  is  no  longer  in  existence.  It  was  situated  to  the 
right  of  the  road  near  the  small  town  of  Terveuren. 


376  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

whole  expense,  and  well  they  might  if  what  I 
have  heard  be  true,  that  the  vast  capital  vested 
in  the  commercial  houses  of  that  city  at  the  period 
of  that  commercial  ruin  still  remains  unimpaired 
and  in  great  part  still  in  specie.  The  Emperor 
relishes  the  idea,  but  he  is  a  man  of  half  measures 
— a  groper  in  politics,  without  sufficient  steadiness 
or  understanding  to  adopt  and  carry  through  a 
great  and  vigorous  plan. 

He  also  communicated  to  me  the  proposal 
he  and  the  Empress  of  Russia  had  sent  over  to 
Belgioioso,  offering  their  mediation  for  peace.  The 
plan  was  to  appoint  a  congress  in  Holland;  the 
British  and  American  ambassadors  were  to  take 
adjoining  hotels  and  to  open  a  communication, 
and  the  other  persons  were  not  to  enter  upon 
business  till  those  two  were  agreed.  The  plan 
was  sent  over  to  Lord  Stormont.  The  Emperor 
gave  me  a  copy  of  it  and  promised  to  give  me 
the  answer  at  Ghent. 

I  returned  to  Ghent  that  evening,  and  three 
days  afterwards  Joseph  H.  arrived  at  the  inn  of 
St.  Sebastian.  Next  morning  he  reviewed  a  bat- 
talion of  Clairfait's  regiment,  and  d'Arberg's 
dragoons,  and  gave  audiences  till  four.  After 
dinner  I  waited  on  him  at  the  town-house,  where 
he  had  received  the  magistrates.      He  there  com- 


COURTS     OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  377 

municated  to  me  Lord  Stormont's  letter  and 
refusal  of  the  mediation,  at  which  he  felt  very 
indignant.  "But,"  said  he,  "how  can  one  expect 
anything  reasonable  in  one's  concerns  with  a  man 
que  j'ai  vu  pendant  deux  ans  fou!" 

He  showed  me  the  official  answer,  and  allowed 
me  to  take  a  copy  of  it  as  well  as  of  his  letter. 
He  seemed  quite  delighted  with  the  reception  he 
had  met  with  at  Antwerp  and  at  Ghent,  and  de- 
clared he  believed  the  people  would  give  him  their 
blood  if  he  asked  for  it.  I  observed  that  they 
naturally  rejoiced  at  the  sight  of  a  sovereign,  not 
having  seen  one  since  Philip  H.  He  started,  and 
said,  **Au  nom  de  Dieu  ne  me  comparez  pas  à 
lui  !  " 

The  crowd  was  immense  all  day  and  all  night 
at  the  inn  where  he  lodged;  so  that,  in  order  to 
pay  Mrs.  S.  a  visit  (she  being  at  an  inn  on  the 
same  side  of  the  square),  he  and  General  Terzy 
were  obliged  to  come  by  a  back  way,  through  little 
gardens  and  closes  behind  the  houses  along  the 
river,  from  one  house  to  the  other.  When  they 
entered  the  court  where  we  occupied  the  ground- 
floor,  our  landlord  ushered  in  His  Majesty  with  a 
taper  in  each  hand.  He  sat  with  us  an  hour, 
then  returned  the  same  way.  From  the  silence 
enforced,  and  the  candles  taken  about,  the  people 


qyS  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

thought  it  was  the  sacrament  administering  to 
some  sick  person,  and  many  knelt  down. 

He  gave  an  amusing  account  of  his  entry  at 
Bruges,  where  petitions  were  presented  to  him  by 
a  drôle  de  corps,  une  espèce  de  fou,  qui  avoit  l'air 
d'un  Marguillier  en  perruque  blanche  de  travers,  qui  me 
parla  Italien.  Never  was  anything  better  painted, 
especially  as  I  had  met  the  person  at  Bruges. 

Next  day,  by  his  order,  I  attended  him  when 
the  crowd  was  a  little  dispersed.  He  had  dined 
early  and  was  walking  about  the  room  eating 
strawberries.  When  he  left  Ghent  he  went  to 
Antwerp,  making  a  round  by  Oudenarde  and 
Most,  without  going  to  Brussels  where  the  grandees 
had  prepared  a  brilliant  reception. 


June  i^th. 

We  came  by  the  barge  to  Bruges,  and  dined 
in  company  with  Mr.  Burgess,  confessor  of  the 
Augustine  nuns.  I  could  not  help  laughing  when 
I  saw  him,  for  it  was  he  who  had  presented  the 
petitions  to  the  Emperor  and  whom  he  had  made 
such  a  joke  of.  My  risibility  was  the  more  excited 
when  he  boasted  of  His  Imperial  Majesty's  great 
politeness  and  attention  to  his  speech. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,     ETC.  379 


London,  July  ist. 

Having  brought  a  parcel  from  his  brother, 
General  Langlois,  I  called  upon  Mr.  Benjamin 
Langlois,  Under-Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign 
Affairs.  The  conversation  by  chance  fell  upon  the 
question  of  peace,  which  he  avowed  to  be  the  most 
desirable  of  blessings  if  it  could  be  brought  about 
by  any  honourable  means.  I  observed,  in  reply, 
that  it  was  not  likely  the  present  administration 
should  obtain  it  easily,  since  they  had  rejected  the 
mediation  of  Joseph  II.,  the  only  friend  we  had 
left  in  the  world. 

He  stared  as  I  repeated,  verbatim,  all  I  knew, 
without  discovering  my  author.  Nothing  could 
exceed  his  apparent  dismay;  he  protested  that  he 
was  the  only  person  not  of  the  cabinet  who  had 
seen  the  letter.  I  refused  to  say  more,  and  the 
next  morning  I  received  a  note  from  Lord  Stormont, 
requesting  the  favour  of  me  to  call  on  him  at  his 
office.  I  complied,  and,  having  no  reason  for 
further  silence,  relieved  him  from  his  fears  of 
treachery  by  acquainting  him  from  whence  I  had 
derived  my  knowledge.  I  amused  myself,  however, 
a  little  with  his  perplexity  and  uneasiness  before  I 
let  him  into  my  secret. 


380  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

London,'^  April  i^th,  1785. 

Spent  a  day  and  night  at  York  with  my 
sister,  then  came  to  Parlington,  where  I  was 
received  with  great  cordiaUty  by  the  Benedict 
and  Benedictina.  She  does  not  appear  to  me 
any  better  looking  than  she  was  two  years  ago, 
when  he  thought  her  so  plain  ;  but  times  and 
opinions  change,  one  knows  not  why.  I  suppose 
her  fondness  for  dogs  has  charmed  him,  though 
no  one  is  so  little  of  a  puppy  as  himself;  the 
rooms  are  full  of  them,  big  and  little. 

On  my  way  I  went  to  see  Woburn.  There 
is  a  noble  plantation  of  magnificent  timber,  fine 
turf,  a  large  house,  but  in  a  hole,  and  apparently 
a  damp  situation.  The  rooms  above  stairs  are 
grand  and  there  is  a  vast  number  of  valuable 
portraits,  &c.  I  was  much  amused  by  my  travels 
to  London  on  horseback,  in  the  mode  of  ancient 
days  when  there  were  neither  stage  coaches  nor 
good  roads.  In  my  opinion  it  is  pleasanter  than 
going  in  a  postchaise  ;  that  is  to  say,  when  there 
is  no  necessity  for  so  doing  ;   for  necessity,  though 

I  Here  there  is  a  considerable  hiatus  in  Mr.  S.'s  corre- 
spondence. None  of  the  letters  written  by  him  from  Paris, 
upon  his  visit  to  that  place  in  1783,  are  forthcoming; 
several  others,  it  must  be  observed,  are  also  missing.  This 
will  account  for  the  want  of  connection  that  is  visible  now 
and  then. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  381 

it  has  no  law,  must,  by  imposing  a  restraint, 
take  off  all  pleasure.  However,  I  conclude  they 
did  not  mind  it  formerly,  as  people  would  now; 
it  seemed  so  much  a  thing  of  course.  It  is  re- 
corded of  our  family  that  one  of  our  aunts,  or 
great  aunts,  rode  on  a  pillion,  full  dressed  in 
hoop,  &c.,  to  a  masquerade,  from  Capheaton  to 
Callaby,  danced  all  night  and  returned  after  the 
ball  in  the  same  manner — about  thirty  miles'  dis- 
tance. 

London  is  full  and  dinners  numerous.  The 
pleasantest  lounge  is  Ranelagh,  where  one  meets 
all  the  world.  The  routs  do  not  suit  me.  I 
was  at  one  last  night  at  old  Lady  Littleton's, 
which  would  have  cured  me  of  liking  them  if  I 
had  been  so  inclined.  I  was  almost  the  only 
man,  certainly  the  youngest.  There  were  plenty 
of  stiif  ladies  de  l'ancienne  couVf  with  Lady  Mary 
Duncan  at  their  head,  in  saques,  hoops,  and  fly- 
caps  at  the  tops  of  their  toupees.  Lady  Little- 
ton's cockatoo  was  the  only  tolerable  piece  of  life 
in  the  apartment. 

Perhaps  you  don't  know  this  anecdote  of 
Lady  Mary  Duncan.  She  was  an  heiress,  and 
Sir  William  Duncan  was  her  physician  during  a 
severe  illness.  One  day  she  told  him  she  had 
made  up  her  mind  to  marry,  and  upon  his   asking 


382  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

the  name  of  the  fortunate  chosen  one,  she  bid 
him  go  home  and  open  the  Bible,  giving  him 
chapter  and  verse,  and  he  would  find  out.  He 
did  so,  and  thus  he  read  :  "  Nathan  said  to 
David,  'Thou  art  the  man.*"* 

I  have  met  the  Prince  of  Wales  at  several 
assemblies.  He  is  a  fine  looking,  fair  young  man, 
said  to  be  very  like  the  Pretender  in  his  early 
youth  when  he  landed  in  Scotland.  He  is  pleas- 
ing and  well  mannered. 

I  have  been  staying  at  Cashiobury,  where  the 
park  is  extensive.  There  is  a  fine  hill  and  hang- 
ing wood  over  a  large  stream  of  clear  water 
full  of  trout.  The  house  is  in  the  shape  of  a 
Greek  n.  The  left  wing  is  more  modern  than 
the  right,  which  is  very  old.     There  are   fine   old 


1  A  very  pretty  French    widow,    Madame    Esther    de 

,  was  long  the  object  of  the  secret  affection  of  a  friend 

of  mine,  who  had  not  courage  to  disclose  his  sentiments. 
But  women's  eyes  are  quick  in  these  matters  and  she 
soon  discovered  the  state  of  his  heart.  Being  together 
one  day,  the  subject  chanced  to  fall  upon  the  ancient 
Testament,  upon  which  she  said  to  him  :  "  Do  you  know 
which  of  the  Kings  of  that  Testament  I,  and  all  discreet 
women,  should  prefer  for  a  lover?"  "No,"  replied  he. 
"  I  will  tell  you,"  answered  she.  "  C'est  Assuérus  !  " 
"Comment I"  exclaimed  he.  "  Mais  1  "  rejoined  the  fair 
widow,  with  a  very  significant  smile,  "c'est  parceque  il 
savoit  aimer  Esther  (et  se  taire)."  My  friend  took  the 
hint,  threw  himself  at  her  feet,  and  was  accepted. 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  383' 

trees    în    the    shrubbery,    but    an     air    of    neglect 
prevails  throughout. 

Sewell,  publisher  of  the  "  European  Magazine," 
a  work  now  in  vogue,  has  written  to  Elmsley  to 
request  memoirs  of  me,  and  my  picture,  to  publish 
in  September.  He  thinks  it  proper  to  comply 
with  the  request,  for  fear  of  some  ridiculous  mis- 
representations. 


LondoUf  February,  1785. 

In  consequence  of  your  request  that  I  should 
write  often  and  in  detail,  I  will  give  you  some 
account  of  our  goings-on  in  this  gay  metropolis, 
where  we  have  been  yet  but  a  short  time,  but 
have  had  plenty  to  do  with  many  people  we 
know  and  dinner  invitations  pouring  in  by  cart- 
loads. Yet  I  think  you  are  better  off  in  the 
country,  for  the  cold  weather  and  the  fogs  here 
are  very  unpleasant. 

My  business  with  ministry  occasions  my  being 
in  town,  as  it  is  of  no  avail  to  trust  one's  interests 
in  other  hands  without  attending  to  them  one's-self. 
However,  I  am  hitherto  not  much  further  ad- 
vanced, for  Mr.  Rose  cannot  get  Mr.   Pitt  to  give 


^84  LETTERS     FROM     THE 

an  answer  about  the  purchase.*  I  have  written 
to  him  myself,  and  received  a  very  polite  letter 
in  return,  apologising  and  promising  an  answer 
as  soon  as  possible;  but  that  is  already  a  fort- 
night since.  Pazienza  !  en  attendant  we  amuse 
ourselves. 

Some  time  ago,  at  a  great  dinner  at  Mr. 
Wilkes's,  we  met  Barons  Weissembourg  and  Lein- 
kowitz,  Barthélémy,  Conway  and  Mademoiselle 
d'Eon,  who  is  a  very  curious  personage.  M.  de 
Ste.  Foix,  who  has  known  her  from  her  first 
appearance,  has  given  me  her  story.  She  was 
always  in  male  attire  and  supposed  to  be  a  man. 
She  began  by  being  a  commis  in  the  bureau  of 
M.  de  Sauvigny,  Intendant  de  Paris,  and  as  a 
délassement  she  attended  the  fencing  school,  where 
she  attained  great  skill,  which  gave  her  an  inclina- 
tion for  the  military  profession,  and  she  obtained 
from  the  Intendant  the  post  of  "lieutenant  de 
milice  de  I'lsle  de  France,"  but  continued  to  write 
in  his  office.  When  France  wished  to  renew  its 
connection  with  Prussia,  it  was  thought  proper 
to  send  an  obscure  person,  pour  tâter  le  terrain, 
and  sound  the  inclinations  of  that  Court.  One 
Douglas,    a    refugee    Scotchman,    was    chosen    for 

I  Alluding  to  the  purchase  of  Mr.   Swinburne's  West- 
Indian  property. 


CHARLES-GENE  VIE  VE-LOUIS-A  UG  USTE- 

ANDRE-TIMOTHÉE  DE  BEAUMONT 

CHEVALIER  D'EON 


Unknown  artist.     Painting  in  the  possession  of 
Mine.  Léon  Blazy,  Paris 


COURTS     OF     PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  385 

that  purpose,  and  he  took  d'Eon  for  his  secretary 
and  employed  her  in  carrying  his  confidential 
despatches  backwards  and  forwards;  which  brought 
him  into  contact  with  more  people  in  France,  and 
with  Ste.  Foix  at  Vienna,  where  he  was  charge 
d'affaires  under  Praslin.  When  the  Marquis  de 
l'Hôpital  was  named  ambassador  to  Russia,  d'Eon 
was  thought  likely  to  be  useful,  and  was  appointed 
secretary  with  the  brevet  of  captain  of  dragoons. 
From  that  time  till  1761  she  was  employed  in  the 
diplomatic  line,  when  she  asked  the  Count  de 
Broglie  to  make  her  one  of  his  aides-de-camp,  and 
in  that  capacity  she  made  half  a  campaign.  Next 
year  she  came  with  Nivernois  to  England,  to  settle 
the  preliminaries  of  the  peace  ;  and,  having  carried 
over  the  ratification,  was  decorated  with  the  croix 
de  St.  Louis  and  employed  under  Count  de 
Guerchies. 

The  discovery  of  her  sex,  and  her  being 
forced  to  put  on  female  attire,  arose,  I  believe, 
from  a  duel  she  was  engaged  in  ;  but  I  have  not 
heard  this  very  accurately  accounted  for,  though 
I  am  told  it  was  certainly  by  the  orders  of  the 
French  government.  She  is  very  masculine-looking 
and  ugly,  and  looks  more  like  a  captain  of 
dragoons  than  a  gentle  belle.  She  still  wears  the 
croix  de  St.  Louis. 

VOL.  I  25 


386  LETTERS     FROM    THE 

I  thought  she  appeared  quite  out  of  her 
element  as  she  accompanied  the  ladies  upstairs 
after  dinner  and  cast  a  longing  look  at  the  wine 
she  was  leaving.^ 

I  have  met  Count  Oginsky,  chief  of  the  Con- 
federates of  Poland,  a  man  of  spirit  and  enter- 
prise, but,  unfortunately,  almost  the  only  one  of 
that  sort  in  a  nation  of  degenerate,  corrupted 
wretches.*  If  Poland  had  six  or  seven  like  him, 
perhaps  Poniatowsky  would  never  have  been  king, 
nor  Poland  divided  by  its  ancient  enemies. 

We  had  a  magnificent  concert  at  Mrs.  Con- 
way's, with  all  the  first-rate  performers — Tenducci, 
Cramer  and  Cherubini.  Theresa  Decamp,  a 
charming  girl  of  fifteen,  played,  danced  and 
acted    vastly    well.       The    Prince    of    Wales    was 

1  Charles  Geneviève  Louise  Augusta  d'Eon  de  Beau- 
mont— such  were  the  names  of  this  celebrated  personage, 
who  was  born  at  Tonnère  in  1728.  The  motives  that  in- 
duced the  Court  of  France  to  force  d'Eon  to  disguise 
himself  as  a  woman  have  never  been  cleared  up.  The 
doubts  that  hung  over  his  sex  were  entirely  removed, 
however,  at  his  death,  which  took  place  in  London  in 
1810.  A  certificate  to  that  effect  was  signed  by  Mr.  Cope- 
land,  the  Père  Elysée,  and  in  which  it  is  distinctly  stated 
that  d'Eon  was  a  man. 

2  The  recent  struggles  in  Poland  have  shown  that  the 
people  of  that  unfortunate  country  do  not  merit  the  severe 
epithets  applied  to  them  by  Mr.  Swinburne.  Had  he  said 
**  spirited,  but  rash  and  improvident,"  he  would  have  been 
more  just. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,     ETC.  387 

there.  Mrs.  Fitzherbert  wears  his  picture  in  full 
view  round  her  neck  ;  therefore,  I  suppose  matters 
are  settled  between  them. 

I  dined  shortly  afterwards  at  General  Paoli's, 
Townley's,  Madame  Pinto's  and  Mrs.  Walsing- 
ham*s,*  where  we  had  agreeable  parties.  The 
latter  is  a  very  pleasant  woman,  and  very  dis- 
criminating, for  she  has  bound  up  my  Spanish 
tour  in  the  most  magnificent  folio  imaginable, 
with  illustrations,  of  her  own  putting  in,  of 
prints,  landscapes  and  portraits  appertaining  to 
the  work.  It  was  lying  on  the  table,  and  met  my 
eye  one  day  that  I  dined  there;  so,  if  I  proclaim 
her  a  woman  of  taste,  you  will  say,  "Je  suis  payé 
pour  cela."  Her  daughter  is  just  come  out  in 
the  world  and  is  highly  accomplished  as  well  as 
amiable.  Lord  Exeter  has  had  a  folio  illustrated 
of  my  travels  in  the  same  sumptuous  manner  as 
Mrs.  W. 

We  have  morning  concerts  at  Mrs.  Hamil- 
ton's (Sir  William's  sister-in-law),  where  her 
second  daughter  sings  extremely  well.  I  met 
Mrs.  Siddons  there;  she  is  handsome,  but  too 
stately  for  common  life.  I  thought  her  acting  in 
the  Fair  Penitent  very  fine.  I  am  told  she  never 
gets  off  her  tragedy-queen  manner,  and  if  she  asks 
I  Mother  to  the  late  Baroness  de  Ros. 

25— a 


388  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

at  dinner  for  "the  mustard,  if  you  please,"  or, 
"  m  thank  you  for  the  potatoes,"  it  is  in  the 
same  dignified  style.* 

I  went  to  see  Mrs.  Abingdon  act  Scrub  in  the 
Beau's  Stratagem,  for  her  benefit,  which  she  made 
an  apology  for  having  chosen,  in  an  epilogue  which 
was  wonderfully  well  received  ;  but  I  confess  I  was 
surprised  at  her  making  such  an  extraordinary 
choice  of  a  part  that  is  totally  unsuited  to  her. 
She  was  at  Mrs.  Walsingham's  the  other  evening 
playing  at  cards,  when  some  people  came  in  from 
the  play  in  raptures  at  Miss  Farren's  performance 
of  Lady  Teazle."  She  was  much  piqued  at  these 
encomiums.  Fancying  them  meant  at  her,  she 
said:  "It  would  be  very  strange  if  she  could  not 
play  Lady  Teazle  well,  she  must  have  seen  me  in 
it  so  often  !  '* 

At  Paoli's  I  met  Boswell,  whose  "Tour  in  the 


1  This  is  true.  Mrs.  Siddons  almost  always,  to  use 
her  own  expression,  spoke  in  the  language  of  Shakspeare, 
and  accounted  for  it  by  her  mind  being  constantly  absorbed 
in  meditating  upon  the  words  of  our  immortal  bard,  so 
that  she  identified  herself,  as  it  were,  with  his  phraseology. 
Ahnost  the  last  time  I  met  her  she  said,  "How  fares 
your  good  lady?"  "Passing  well,"  answered  I.  "Bear 
my  kind  greetings,  and  commend  me  to  her  favour,"  re- 
plied Mrs.  Siddons,  waving  her  hand.  Then  again  one 
day  at  dinner  I  proposed  to  help  her  to  something.  "I 
cry  you  mercy,"  said  she,  "  I've  feasted  sumptuously." 

2  Miss  Farren,  who  married  Lord  Derby. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  389 

Hebrides  with  Dr.  Johnson"  I  had  just  been  read- 
ing. It  entertained  me  exceedingly  and  I  think 
has  a  fund  of  good  stuff  in  it.  They  say  he  has 
a  constant  custom,  before  he  retires  to  rest,  of 
writing  down  all  the  interesting  parts  of  the  con- 
versations he  has  had  in  the  course  of  the  day. 
This  practice  being  known,  his  brother  barristers 
on  the  circuit  made  him  sign  a  paper  of  penalties 
to  be  recovered  if  he  kept  any  journal  or  made 
notes  of  private  discourse  during  their  journey 
together.  He  says.  Dr.  Johnson  thought  very 
meanly  of  Mrs.  Montague,  and  declared  he  could 
never  get  through  her  book  upon  Shakspeare. 
That  is  my  sentiment  exactly. 

I  have  been  reading  **  Cagliostro's  Memoirs," 
which  are  quite  a  romance. 

People  seem  to  be  crazy  about  balloons,  which 
are  quite  the  rage  at  present  and  even  supersede 
politics,  notwithstanding  that  some  of  the  new 
Icari  seem  to  have  shared  the  fate  of  their  pre- 
decessor.^    I  went  to  see  Arnold's   balloon  go  up. 


I  Apropos  of  balloons.    This  reminds  me  of  Dr.  F , 

a  learned  philosopher,  aeronaut,  and  great  admirer  of  the 
canine  race  to  boot.  He  had  a  poodle,  to  which  his  family 
were  much  attached.  "  Being  desirous  to  make  an  experi- 
ment upon  the  effects  of  temperature  on  '  Moustache,*  I 
resolved,"  said  he,  **  to  take  him  up  with  me  in  a  balloon, 
but  was  compelled  to  renounce   this    interesting   project." 


390 


LETTERS     FROM    THE 


From  his  son's  forcing  himself  in,  the  balloon 
could  not  raise  the  parachute,  which  was  dashed 
against  the  pales  and  torn  from  the  car.  Arnold, 
with  half  the  gallery,  was  pulled  down,  and  his 
son  left  to  fly  up  with  only  a  few  ropes  to  hang 
by.  He  ascended  rapidly,  but  soon,  from  the 
machine's  bursting  or  his  opening  the  valve,  it 
descended,  and  was  almost  reduced  to  a  heap  of 
flat  rags,  which  brought  him  down  unhurt  into 
the  Thames,  where  a  boat  took  him  in  directly. 
It  was  a  very  affecting  scene  ;  poor  Arnold  fainted 
away. 

March  2^th. 

At  a  dinner  at   Mr.  Vaughan's,  in  the  city,   I 

met  Romilly,  Shipley,   Bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  three 

Americans,    &c.      The   behaviour  of   the   latter   at 

table  was   truly  ridiculous;    it   is    not   possible   to 

conceive    anything   more    vulgar    and    contrary  to 

the  manners  of  polished  countries.     A  low  farmer 

in  England  would  not   do   so   many  awkward   and 

improper    things     because     he    would     feel    more 

shamefacedness.* 

"Why?"  demanded  I.  "Why,"  replied  he,  ingenuously, 
"  it  blew  so  hard  that  my  wife  interfered,  and  said  it  would 
be  too  cruel  to  expose  the  poor  dog  to  such  peril." 

I  Amongst  other  anecdotes  illustrative  of  American  man. 
ners,  there  is  one  that  I  heard  lately  worth  recording,  for, 
&i  non  c   vero,   é  ben  trovato.      An   English    officer,    Colonel 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  39I 

Mr.  Peachey  has  shown  me  some  curious 
drawings  of  the  pagoda  of  Mudina  brought  over 
by  Captain  Paterson,  who  also  penetrated  fifteen 
hundred  miles  into  the  continent  of  Africa  from 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  He  shot  two  came- 
leopards,  one  of  which  the  lions  ate  in  the  night, 
the  other  he  has  brought  home  stuffed.  It  is  the 
first  seen  in  England,  and  the  first  in  Europe 
since  the  Caesars.  He  says  the  natives  spoke  con- 
fidently of  unicorns  and  that  he  was  within  a  few 
days'  march  of  the  country  where  they  abound. 

We  had  an  agreeable  dinner  at  Lady  Betty 
Mackenzie's;  a  small  party — Lady  Mary  Coke, 
Dutens,  William  Townsend,  Horace  Walpole,  and 
Poyntz.     Mr.  Mackenzie  told  me  several  anecdotes, 

A ,   was  travelling  in  a  stage  to   New  York,   and  was 

extremely  annoyed  by  a  firee  and  enlightened  citizen's 
perpetually  spitting  across  him  out  of  the  window.  He 
bore  this  patiently  for  some  time,  till  at  last  he  ventured 
to  remonstrate,  when  the  other  said,  "  Why,  Colonel,  I 
estimate  you're  a-poking  fun  at  me — that  I  do.  Now,  I'm 
not  a-going  to  chaw  my  own  bilge-water,  not  for  no  man. 
Besides,  you  need  not  look  so  thundering  ugly.  Why,  I've 
practised  all  my  hfe,  and  could  squirt  through  the  eye  of 
a  needle  without  touching  the  steel,  let  alone  such  a  great 

saliva  box  as  that  there  window."     Colonel  A remained 

tranquil  for  some  time;  at  last  his  anger  got  up,  and  he 
spat  bang  in  his  companion's  face,  exclaiming,  *'  I  beg  you 
a  thousand  pardons,  squire,  but  I've  not  practised  as  much 
as  you  have.  No  doubt  by  the  time  we  reach  New  York 
I  shall  be  as  great  a  dab  as  you  are."  The  other  rubbed 
his  eye  and  remained  bouche  close. 


392 


LETTERS     FROM     THE 


one  of  Lady  Yarmouth.  She  was  at  a  large  dinner, 
seated  at  no  great  distance  from  a  rich  clergyman 
and  some  bishopric  having  just  fallen  in,  he  care- 
lessly expressed  a  wish  that  he  were  so  lucky  to 
be  named  to  it.  "  Do  you  expect  it  ?  "  said  she 
to  him.  "  No,  indeed,  I  do  not,"  he  replied  ;  "  I 
fear  I  am  not  so  fortunate."  "What  say  you  to 
a  bet  ?  "  said  she  ;  "  I'll  bet  you  five  thousand 
pounds  that  you  will  get  it."  "  Done,"  said  the 
clergyman  ;  and  soon  after  he  had  the  vacant 
see. 

Lady  Betty  told  us  that  after  her  uncle's  death 
(her  father  was  the  great  Mac  Cullamore,  as  he 
was  called  amongst  his  clan)  she  and  her  sisters 
could  not  bear  to  recognise  as  Duke  of  Argyll  their 
cousin  Jack  (first  cousin  to  her  father),  having 
always  been  accustomed  to  dislike  and  quarrel  with 
him.^  He  called  on  them,  and  sat  some  time,  but 
nothing  could  prevail  on  these  girls  to  give  him 
the  title  of  my  Lord  Duke.  At  last  he  rang  the 
bell  for  his  carriage,  and  when  the  servant  came 
he  gave  no  orders,  leaving  to  them  to  say,  "  His 
Grace's  carriage  "  ;  but  Lady  Betty  was  determined 
not  to  do  so,  and  pointing  to  him,  she  said,  "The 
carriage  I   the  carriage  !  " 

I  John,  fourth  Duke  of  Argyll.  Lady  Betty  Mackenzie 
and  Lady  Mary  Coke  were  daughters  of  John,  second  Duke. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,    NAPLES,    ETC.  393 

Lady  Betty  could  never  have  been  pretty,  but 
they  say  Lady  Mary  was.  It  must  have  been  in 
days  of  yore  indeed,  for  she  is  now  so  deadly  pale 
that  her  face  is  absolutely  cadaverous.  They  say 
Mr.  Walpole  was  in  love  with  her,  but  she  was 
persuaded  to  marry  Lord  Coke,  who  was  quite  a 
madman,  and  shut  her  up  for  a  long  time  in  a 
cage. 

On  Thursday,  at  Almack's,  the  Prince  of 
Wales  never  moved  from  Mrs.  Fitzherbert's  side 
and  supped  en  petit  comité  with  her,  Lady  Beau- 
champ,  Lady  Horatio  Waldegrave  and  Mrs. 
Musters,  who  all  paid  her  the  deference  they 
would  to  a  Princess  of  Wales.  About  two  she 
yawned,  and  His  Royal  Highness,  pulling  out  his 
watch,  showed  her  the  hour.  Up  she  rose,  he 
called  her  chair,  and  off  she  went,  he  following 
directly. 

We  spent  a  day  at  Mrs.  Garrick's  villa  at 
Hampton,  which  is  very  pretty  and  must  be  still 
more  so  in  the  summer.  We  had  Mrs.  Walsingham, 
Mrs.  Wilmot,  Mr.  Bowdler  and  Miss  Hannah  More. 
Mrs.  Garrick  is  a  good-natured  and  rather  agreeable 
woman.  She  and  Garrick  were  never  asunder  for 
twenty-four  hours.  She  was  educated  and  patron- 
ised by  Lady  Burlington,  who  paid  her  great 
attention    when    she    was    Mademoiselle    Violetta, 


394 


LETTERS     FROM    THE 


dancing  on  the  stage.  The  moment  her  dance 
was  over  she  was  summoned  to  Lady  B.*s  box, 
to  remain  there  until  it  was  her  turn  to  perform 
again. 

She  has  not  the  least  appearance  of  ever 
having  been  pretty;  has  very  small  eyes  and  a 
wide  mouth.  Her  good  -  humour  and  elegance 
captivated  the  heart  of  Garrick,  and  it  appears 
that  she  not  only  captured  but  retained  it  during 
life.  She  has  a  box  at  Drury  Lane,  bestowed  on 
her  by  the  managers,  rather  in  the  skies.  She 
lent  it  us  to  see  the  Beggar's  Opera,  which  was 
ill  -  attended,  not  as  it  must  have  been  in  those 
days  when  it  made  ''Rich  gay  and  Gay  rich." 


May  igth. 

We  had  a  turtle  dinner  at  Wilkes's  yesterday. 
I  had  met  him  the  day  before  on  the  parade,  and 
the  warmth  of  the  weather  and  walk  had  carried 
off  all  the  powder  from  his  bald  pate.  He  is  a 
great  complimenter  and  would  stand  talking  to 
me  with  his  hat  in  his  hand.  A  drummer  and 
his  son  passed  us,  and  as  I  was  going  their  way 
I  overheard  their  discourse.  "  What  a  queer- 
looking    bald     fellow    that    was,"     said    the     boy. 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  395 

"  Don't  you  know  him  ?  "  replied  the  other  ;  "  'tis 
Johnny  Wilkes,  and  that  bald  head  has  more 
brains  in  it  than  all  our  regiments  put  together, 
drummers  and  all."  I  told  this  to  Wilkes  and  it 
made  him  chuckle.  He  was  very  amusing  and 
told  me  several  droll  things. 

In  1783-4,  the  House  of  Commons  went  up 
every  day  with  an  address  to  the  King,  praying 
to  remove  Pitt  and  his  ministry.  The  King  always 
received  them  on  his  throne  and  gave  them  an 
answer.  One  of  these  days,  at  the  club,  George 
Selv^n  had  been  asking  the  Prince  of  Wales  some 
questions,  to  which  he  did  not  choose  to  reply 
otherwise  than  by  "  Pshaw  !  nonsense  1  "  Not 
long  after,  as  they  were  both  leaning  on  the 
balcony  looking  at  the  Speaker  going  to  Court, 
the  Prince  said,  "  I  wonder  what  will  be  His 
Majesty's  most  gracious  answer  ?"  "I  cannot 
tell,"  answered  George  Selwyn,  **  what  may  be 
the  gracious  answer  of  His  prescrit  Majesty;  but  I 
can  tell  what  will  be  the  answer  of  our  next 
gracious  sovereign."  "  Well,  what  will  it  be  ?  " 
said  the  Prince.     "  Nonsense  !  "  Selwyn  replied. 

The  other  day,  at  a  dinner  in  company  with 
the  Prince  of  Wales,  Wilkes  being  called  upon 
for  a  toast  gave  "  The  King,  and  long  life  to 
himi" — "Since   when   have   you   become  so   loyal, 


396  LETTERS    FROM    THE 

Wilkes  ?  "  said  the  Prince,  laughing.  **  Ever  since 
I  have  had  the  honour  of  knowing  your  Royal 
Highness,"  said  he,  with  a  respectful  bow. 

When  the  Prince  was  a  little  boy,  having 
been  very  troublesome  in  his  father's  room  and 
several  times  turned  out  of  it  by  him,  he  returned 
at  last,  and,  thrusting  his  head  into  the  doorway, 
screamed  out,  "  Wilkes  and  Liberty  !  " 

Wilkes  told  me  that  Churchill  had  sold  to 
George  Kearsley  twelve  sermons  for  five  hundred 
pounds,  and  that  he  had  only  nine  to  produce. 
The  bookseller  would  not  pay  the  money  unless 
the  number  was  complete,  so  Wilkes  himself 
composed  the  three  wanting,  which  were  so  much 
superior  (for  Churchill  wrote  bad  verse)  that  he 
was  afraid  they  would  be  found  out  not  to  be  by 
the  same  author  as  the  other  nine. 

When  Churchill  was  dying  at  Boulogne,  two 
capuchins  insisted  upon  seeing  and  exhorting  him, 
which  Wilkes  daily  refused.  At  last  he  persuaded 
them  to  depart  by  hinting  the  danger  they  would 
run  of  being  perverted  by  the  sick  man,  who  was 
a  divine  and  one  of  the  most  eloquent  of  the 
Church  of  England. 

What  a  fine  sample  it  is  of  party  spirit  to 
choose  Alderman  Skinner  for  the  auctioneer  of 
the    Portland    Museum  —  although     he    does     not 


COURTS    OF    PARIS,     NAPLES,     ETC.  397 

know  a -cameo  from  an  intaglio,  nor  a  cockleshell 
from  a  nautilus — merely  because  he  is  a  stickler 
in  the  City  for  the  coalition  and  is  chairman  of 
the  committee  formed  against  the  administration. 


Joiôt  cf  cJlluôttationô 

Mettezâ    H^zttten    at    the    Stid    of   the    Sigkteentk    Gentuzy 


y  O  LU  ME  I 

PAGE 

MARIE-THÉRÈSE  OF  AUSTRIA Fronts. 

CHARLES  IV,  KING   OF  SPAIN l6o 

DUCHESS  OF   DEVONSHIRE • I92 

CH.-M.   DE  TALLEYRAND-Pe'rIGORD 304 

CHEVALIER   D'EON 384 


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